So, just wanted to let you know incase you have a similar issue in the future, and anyone else reading this. I just fixed mine in about 10 minutes for about 10 cents. I own my own big rig, so always carry a selection set of O-rings, cause it stops me getting stranded for the sake of a 10 cent o ring. My set goes from 7/32”x1/16” up to 11/16”x1/8”. Inside the Jeep fitting where the supply pipe fits in, is a little double thickness o ring. So, using a small hook tip screw driver I removed it. Then, using a set of tweezers I replaced it with 2 o-rings of the same diameter from my kit and voila! It fixed the leak. It’s a little fiddly getting the new ones in, but doable at home. The whole o-Ring kit cost about 15 bucks, so at worst, the two o-rings were 10 cents, if that. Hope that maybe helps some folks. I know a replacement part is only Fourty bucks, but I’m all about keeping costs down and refurbing if I can 😊
Hey guys I know this is frustrating and hopefully I am not too late for some of you. It took me some atime but I think I got this. Follow this video but when you get into the WRITE THE SUSPENSION HEIGHT VALUES let the app read your truck sensors, then let your truck adjust its height and then STEP OUT FROM THE TRUCK AND MESAURE THE DISTANCE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE WHEEL TO THE EDGE OF THE FENDER AND WRITE THIS VALUE FOR EACH SUSPENSION. After this your truck will adjust to its original height values, meaning this will adjust the normal, exit, off road 1 and off road 2 standard heights of your ECU System. Hope this works for you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mtVLk7WP2wU.html
Seemed like my compressor was running more than it should so replaced both sides on my 2014 Summit. Cost $60, time 15 minutes. Fixed the issue. Mine wasn't dropping all the way down yet but figured for $60 why not try it. Thank you for the video.
Thanks Tim. I had the exact same problem with my 2012 Overland except mine was leaking on the left side only. I got the part also from RMT but via Ebay where it was only $29.44. You made removing the air line locking connector look easy to remove. I had a little harder time removing it but finally got it off. You're video saved me a lot of time, trouble and money. Thanks again!
Thanks Brother! Just fixed mine today and system works great now. Only thing I did different was I cut the hose with a fine tooth handsaw, and used the whole new part. It took like 3 minutes a side.
Thanks Tim I have the same Jeep as you and had the same problem! Those pricks at the dealership try to tell me I needed a new compressor so I ordered the parts u did and it fixed it for 70$ your the man thanks for posting this video!!!!!!
Service advisor reply: Out of warranty.....$500 Compressor plus $300 for diagnosis/installation labor.......$800 In warranty:.......”Mr Smith”. We found it, $40 dollar fitting X2. And no labor charge......Be ready in about an hour!
@@stephencannon3140 It actually only costs $70 dollars from mopar (part number 4877809AE) which includes both front air lines from the compressor assembly valve block to the strut towers with the fittings in this video included. And then that same part number costs around $60 off ebay. Excluding the front struts and rear bags the most expensive part is the compressor assembly with valve block and thermistor at $1500. Next comes the reservoir tank (this doesn't break) at $450 followed by the control module at $180 (also doesn't break) then all the air lines at with the fittings in this video at $240 to all 4 wheels. Aftermarket or reman compressor assembly is 2 to 300 bucks and you can get OEM under 1k on ebay. You can even find just the motor and replace that in the event that it burned out rather than replace the entire compressor assembly. Heck, you can even find the compressor cylinder head & piston rod for 65 bucks to fix the pump assuming the compressor actually is the problem and the thermistor didn't save it from burning up for whatever leak caused it to run constantly. Meaning, don't assume your compressor is bad as even that protects itself from overheating because of a leak. There are specific codes for that and the overheating DTC code (C1562-98) doesn't at all mean your compressor assembly is bad. That code is lit through the summer on almost every vehicle I've seen but thats the one some idiot will use to say you need to give him thousands of dollars for a new compressor assembly. It just means at some point it got to hot so the control module prevented it from running. If its been hot outside, most likely it'll be clearing all on its own. The OEM struts and springs are $579 per rear bag and $1150 per front strut directly from mopar. Both the fronts and rear are easier to replace than non-quadra lift because you're not dealing with springs. In fact, the rear bags the only thing you do is remove the rear wheels and swap out the bag without needing any tools. You can get arnott rear bags for $400 for both and $1200 for both front struts. If the front struts are leaking its most likely a ring seal at the top of the strut tower just under where the fitting of this very video held in by a compression ring. The point I'm trying to make is don't let the dealerships push you guys around with quadra-lift. And don't buy into the stigma that its insanely expensive or complicated stuff. If they're quoting you thousands they aren't "diagnosing" anything. They're just replacing parts and at that point they better be replacing LOTS of parts many of which for no reason. And if they aren't replacing lots of parts they either have no clue what they're doing or literally robbing you blind. Most likely the part number I mentioned at $70 and 15 minutes as demonstrated by this video is whats wrong. Just throw away all the extra hose. Basically the rubber O rings degrade quicker because they're in there sitting with the hot engine.
dustsmoke Thanks. Again I just purchased my JGC less than a week ago so I would hope that I am not in this situation for quite a while and even if so still under the extended service plan. Seeing this gave me a flashback to stories of the Mercedes Airmatic air suspension and the.......”they will only change all four corners to ensure your not coming back anytime soon. Hopefully I will not see this issue for quite a while but the fittings I can probably deal with and replace fairly easily. Thanks again!!
Hey folks. The quadralift system is a closed system that is filled with nitrogen not air. The closed system eliminates the introduction of moisture that causes rust problems in so many air suspensions systems. If you have leaks and fix them, you'll still need to go to the dealer (or mechanic) and have the nitrogen topped up. Just like the brake system, if there isn't enough fluid in the lines, it's not going to work right.
Great vids bro unfortunately I’m still having issues but this was a great video and was easy to follow along. I will be taking it to the mechanic for further diagnosis
This worked like a charm for me. FYI I would advise anyone doing this to do it at first sight. Over time if you don't take care of this it will burn out the air compressor, which is a $3,000 job from the dealer. Unfortunately, I had to replace the compressor first and still had this problem in the video because they couldn't locate the leak. But once I replaced those seals everything is back to normal and the system is able to hold air again obviously. Hope this helps.
I've replaced, The compressor and the two nozzles. I think, I may have a leak. Also the ride height, Does not go up. It only flashes. Any idea of what it might be?
@@theflash7100 honestly, you're better off swapping the air suspension to coilovers. When the air leaks out the air compressor burns itself out trying to keep air in the struts & you won't know untill it's flat again. This made me take it to the dealer even after I fixed the leak. This cost me nearly 3k for a new air compressor... Only for the same issue to happen again less than a year later. After that, I put standard coilover struts in it, and I haven't had an issue with it since... Unless you absolutely need the air suspension, I'd go with coilovers they're much more dependable and half the cost of the compressor (from the dealer anyways). Otherwise it's an endless money pit.
@@asmith0609 Thanks, I've put in a new compressor and new nozzle hoses. The ride height just blinks. I'm heading to the dealer this week. Hopefully all that is needed is a recalibration and know leaks. Mine is almost paid off. So I will be changeing. The struts to standard coilovers.
Love it. I have a 2012 overland. Our interiors are identical. Pretty sure paint is too - brilliant black pearl right? Any who, having similar issues and just checked after watching your video, and whaddyaknow, drivers side connector leaks if I wiggle it. This vid just saved me a fortune, cause we all know how Jeep love to massively over charge for anything. I will get it re-charged with nitrogen once I’ve done the fix, cause I live in NC and that humidity will kill my compressor. But thanks for this vid, sir, great job!
Thanks for the video I just ordered 2 also I have the same problem leaking on the drivers side but I’ll change the passenger side also thanks again great video 👌🏻
Except the air suspension uses nitrogen from the factory and is a sealed system. So if you fix any leaks you need to have a vacuum pulled and refilled with nitrogen.
I can see why that would make sense but keep in mind that despite losing pressure these Jeeps are still able to pump back up to height...so where is that extra force coming from? Its either heating up the nitrogen gas (expansion) or it’s simply pulling in extra air from the environment.
It pulls supplimental air from outside, however it doesn’t even warn you that it is doing this. The humid, more compressible normal air will shorten the life of the pump dramatically.
EnigmaV8 thanks for the reply! That makes sense. I’d mostly be concerned about the humid air condensing to water within that system. Hopefully it has some way of draining or sequestering any water that could accumulate.
Just want to add the dealer always say your compressor and other components was going out because my front end wouldn't raise up period so I purchased the part off ebay not the compressor but this unit that controlled everything went to a shop that was pretty good they replaced it still had the same issue with the light still blinking around the quadrolift the mechanic shop gave me have of my money saying they couldn't figure it I was very upset after 3 weeks without my vehicle all in all my cousin who's a mechanic told me way before to check the fuse I wouldn't listen may 3 months goes by I was just looking at my fuses and the 40amp was blown and behold the quadrolift worked unbelievable plz check fuses as well could've save me alot of trouble and money.
Good call, its the 40 amp in the J1 position of the fusebox. Also good idea to remove this fuse when jacking the jeep up, just remember to put it back in when done.
This is partially correct. If you lose nitrogen pressure, the system backfills with atmosphere. Nitrogen is better because it contains almost no moisture. It is a good idea after this repair to get the system recharged.
I need help and afraid to take it to the dealer. Driving and battery light came on, later car dash boards lights start coming on and car slowly goes dead while driving. Then a burning smell. Currently my car dash is saying immediate air suspension service required and sitting on the ground/ right side. Car crunk for a few days and now it does nothing! Battery and alternator are good! Thanks for listening!
Sounds to me like the total failure of the QL system is pretty much a NO GO. Item since it appears to “Bottom out” without any clearance for the tires. I understand failure but the system should be designed to fall only to a certain point that still allows enough clearance to be able to get the vehicle to a service facility.....note I didn’t say stealership......unless still under warranty of course. If mine ever did fail 35,990 would be the way for me.
There are stops and it will rest on them. The body doesn't fall all the way to the tires. Mine fell a couple of times and I was like 2 minutes from home and was able to drive it home.
my 2012 has same issue and lowers overtime which makes the compressor work most of the time and get hot in process,,will order this and see it fixes it which mostly will do since i doubt if there would be other places to leak from,, but it would be helpfull if u posted the link for the fittings,, thanks for the clearing
@@batoot2die100 Not exactly. The compressor is responsible for filling the suspension, but it feeds the nitrogen through plastic tubes, then into these fittings which are connected to the air shocks.
If u have any concerns in the future inbox me. Im a level 2 Chrysler dodge jeep ram tech. But im actually leaving next week to start at mercedes benz. But id still love to help.with all my knowledge ... the fuse tends to blow on those its very common
I just did mine after doing them it’s not coming up like it should I tighten them way to much then after loosing them a little it started working but now when I ride it drops back down and my tires rub ? Any suggestions
This sounds like you may have a leak elsewhere. If it were in that fitting, replacing it should solve it. I’d take a bottle of soapy water and start looking for other leaks
Hey did you get the letter about the extended warranty on the dash? You have 6 months from I think December 18th to get it inspected at a dealership. They already did mine, I took it in as soon as I got the letter but I think the part is on back order now so if you haven't done it yet you might be waiting a while. The important thing is you get it inspected within the 6 month time frame.
@@timadams3647 Wow, thats crazy. Well at least it's going to get fixed. After they get it done have a good look around your wood trim to make sure they didn't rip any off. They did on mine, they are going to fix it but I've yet to bring it back up there. Make sure they don't break any tabs on that long plastic piece that goes on top of the dash. I'd video everything around the dash when you drop it off in case someone wants to deny damaging it.
Hey guys I know this is frustrating and hopefully I am not too late for some of you. It took me some atime but I think I got this. Follow this video but when you get into the WRITE THE SUSPENSION HEIGHT VALUES let the app read your truck sensors, then let your truck adjust its height and then STEP OUT FROM THE TRUCK AND MESAURE THE DISTANCE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE WHEEL TO THE EDGE OF THE FENDER AND WRITE THIS VALUE FOR EACH SUSPENSION. After this your truck will adjust to its original height values, meaning this will adjust the normal, exit, off road 1 and off road 2 standard heights of your ECU System. Hope this works for you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mtVLk7WP2wU.html
Garreth Gonzaga a few minor things like the control gear that splits the driver and pass vents broke, but nothing too bad. My leather dash is bubbling... not happy about that.
@@timadams3647 First off thanks for the video. You saved me a lot of money and time, the same part on mine is leaking. As for your dash bubbling, I have the same problem but I got great news yesterday. A letter saying they've extended the warranty on Grand cherokees 2011-2014 for that exact problem. We have 6 months to get it inspected by a dealership and they will repair it free of charge. www.chrysler.com/webselfservice/fcanorth/VinInputForm.jsp
@@timadams3647 first, thanks for your video, because I'm in the process of diagnosing the same issue on my 2011 overland. I also had the issue with the dash. It eventually unwrapped itself like a Christmas present. I bought the Jeep used and was well past any kind of warranty. After speaking with Jeep customer service on phone, and being turned down payment assistance more than 5 times, after that last attempt they called me back almost immediately and said if I pay a deductible that they would replace it. It cost me $500, but I didn't have to pay the few thousand originally qouted. It was replaced with a standard looking dash, and not the original leather. Which I'm seriously okay with. I have the black interior and It still has faux stitching and looks really nice. Above everything, it now seems pretty indestructible. The Alabama heat and humidity is loosening the wood grain on mine now. Anyways! Thanks again!
@@ripplebear On the paper it said something about getting reimbursed if you had paid for a repair so I think so. It only stated 2011-2014 though. Mine's at the dealership right now. Just dropped it off this morning. They said I might not get it back until tomorrow.
If it's a closed system, shouldn't it be concerning about how much air that was lost by disconnecting both of those hoses? I trust that it works, i'm just worried that all that air loss will lead to a slower lifting/lowering and the total ground clearance.
Sort of. The system replaced lost nitrogen with air. Technically you should have the nitrogen recharged after the repair. They will purge the air out. If you live somewhere without much humidity, that step is less pressing.
Mr. Tim I am experiencing that problem too... I have a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee summit hemi 5.7 can I use that same part to fix my vehicle and if so could you send me the information for the part and where you ordered from.
My compressor wouldn’t shut off one day until my battery died, my Jeep is now to the ground swapped old parts with new ones no change what should I do next?
It sounds to me like to are leaking from somewhere else. What I would do is get a spray bottle with soapy water, and start spraying connections at the compressor, on the shocks, etc looking for bubbles.
How are you making out with your Jeep ? I have a 2011 going through the Same issue The compressor keeps coming on and running I blew 2 compressor already it’s been back n forth to the dealer they cannot get it right
What if I did this and the Jeep still won't raise back to height? It tries to go up in the back, which is where we first heard the air leaking but now there's a random hissing underneath the right rear side of the truck. I changed the little elbows on both side under the hood, which was super easy to do but the truck is lowered front and back...sitting on and rubbing the tires!
I'd check the same fittings on the rear shocks to see if they are leaking. If so, replace the rears as well. If that doesn't resolve it, you may be in for a compressor change which is unfortunately expensive. Good Luck!
Hi Tim! I have 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee, mine’s it’s really dropped on the front. As soon as I start it it comes up but on the digital panel a warning sign comes up about the air suspension. I had it checked and the mechanic told me that the left suspension it’s the one having trouble. I was thinking of buying new air suspension until I saw your video. Did your Cherokee gave you the same problems? Please let me know your advice.
Yes. My GC would lower in the front all the way down. Then the compressor would slowly lif it back up. This fixed the problem. If you have one side going down, replace both fittings as it means the rubber seal is failing.
Hey Tim, just an amateur here thinking of this replacement but nervous about air(or is it nitrogen) replacement after I complete this repair. Is it recommended to have it topped off? Have you had any issues with the front end being lower in the mornings since your fix? Thank you!
Hey Josh. I didn't have mine refilled, but I think it is a good idea. Unfortunately I think it's a dealership visit and a couple hundred bucks to have the air evacuated and nitrogen refilled.
Bought the fittings from here: www.rebuildmastertech.com/jeep-grand-cherokee-2011-2017-quadra-lift-suspension-front-rear-air-strut-spring-bag-repair-kit/
Tim thanks for the video. Mine is stuck in “low rider” position and will not come to drive height. I can hear the compressor going but no lift. Issue just started but cans seem to charge the suspension to check for leaks. Any suggestions? Both the back and the front are low. Thanks in advance.
Gilberto Grado it definitely sounds like you have leaks. Be careful not to let the compressor run too much or it will burn out and is an expensive part. There are basically 4 components to the system: 1. Compressor 2: air tank under back seat 3: air lines and fittings 4: air struts If it isn’t coming up at all but the compressor is running, spray windex at all the connection points to the compressor and struts looking for bubbles. If no leak is found, it could be a problem with the struts or the compressor. A site called rebuild master tech will be cheaper than the dealer for parts. Good luck and let me know if I can help.
Tim Adams Thanks. Is there a schematic diagram of where are the fittings are going to the compressor? I only know of the two fittings that you show on you video. Is there anywhere else I should be checking?
@@gilbertogrado6511, the majority of the airline fitting are located on the air control valve which is mounted to the air compressor which is located between the front passenger side wheel and the front facia. The Motor City Mechanic here on youtube has a couple of good videos on how to remove the WK2 front facia depending on the year as the front facia was updated in 2014. 2011-2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee front bumper cover removal ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0fg-GaTuUj8.html 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee front grill and bumper cover replacement ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4sGyx8wAxdA.html
Seeing as my Jeep GC Overland has this issue since February, we ordered the parts, hubby put them on in about 15 minutes, Jeep now sits up overnight like it should. Starting it in the am, the Jeep still goes to a higher level before stopping, should we take it in for some nitrogen seeing as it leaked for 6 months before putting in new fittings? We're in Montana, the winters here can be brutally cold, would like to have the jeep in tip top shape before then. Tia
Yeah. I think you are supposed to refill the nitrogen after you do this repair. Not sure if that will cause it to stop adjusting its level in the morning though. That might just be normal.
The System has an issue with leaks?! This is not the first video I see about the air suspension. Is the GC worth the purchase then? I’m looking at a trailhawk
My friends jeep grand cherokee overland 2016 went into Jeep service in Bahrain for air suspension warnings, and they said the air suspension balloons need to be changed, not covered under warranty and costs 1500BHD. But he had a full 5 year warranty as per sales guy. Can anyone recommend a solution pls.
Hi Tim. I have a 2014 GC summit with same issue. What's the part number of the item that you fixed in this video? I live in the middle East and from where can I order this item for a genuine part.
So you purposely drained all the air to ensure no air leaks right? How reliable and durable is this fix?.......assuming no other factors involved, compressor leak, lifting bag failure etc......
Tim Adams do you think it would seal still seal off with new Voss connection if you would’ve cut the line? I had rats chew my line so I was forced to cut line back about 1ft and then re-route line from compressor. I plugged line back into original connection but it keeps popping out of connection with pressure.
@@timadams3647 you didn’t say you did but did u need the Jeep dealer to charge the system back up ? Or is it like us. Humans when our body looses blood but we still live the body just produces more blood after the wound is closed back up. That kind of thing
Green Lantern I didn’t. The compressor will pull outside air to bring the pressure back up. You “should” take it to the dealer and have them purge and recharge it especially if you live in a humid climate.
@@timadams3647 Thanks Bud you did a great job with this video btw North Carolina Hendrick Chrysler Jeep has gotten a lot of money from me $ thousands and they still have not gotten it right. I’m gonna gonna give it a try myself
Jeep 2017 Grand Cherokee Summit Quadra-Lift problems. Seems that the suspension system isn't at it's best. Just bought from Girlfriend this week. She said the local Jeep Dealer wanted to completely replace the Quadra-Lift system for $ 5000.00. This is the code when plugged in under dash. Code C156298 -States that "ride height air pump control component/system overtemperature" . I 've seen lots of videos showing and explained just to buy the RMT repair kit modules that are both under the hood. Can anyone help on if this has repaired most of the air suspension Quad probs and what else could be the issue if these modules under the hood aren't the problem ? Any and all suggestions will be appreciated before I buy anything .......
Daniel Brown I haven’t had to do the rears, but I just took a look and you can see the back of that same fitting on the back side of the air shock looking from under the car. I’d say get the car really elevated and on jack stands and you should be able to get at it from underneath.
Here is a supplemental video to DIY fill the nitrogen: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M4p907h0oxU.htmlsi=U70nnyeAx76_jLQC replcae these fittings, and then buy this nitrogen setup, then youll have it in a year or two when needed... Thats what im doing. Thanks for this video also.
