Great video. Lots of good info. I just bought a used D140. Pretty sure the blades need replacing so ordered more. Will do this job when they come in. One point I saw in another similar video was that the washers for the blade nuts are domed, that is not flat (on the 2016 model). The concave side goes up, that is against the blade.
Excellent "How To" video. I just bought a used D140 and did the maintenance myself to insure that it was completed. Thanks, you saved me a lot of money.
Neighbor just gave me his old d140 so you just gave me a quick heads up on a lot of the simple maintenance task on this machine. Use to my old 425 and there are quite a few different ways this model is put together. Thanks.👍
Love the vise grips to shut off fuel line idea. Good farming mechanic move. Showing the bayonet style lock on the drain plug saved me from wrecking one to get it off, I'm sure. This is as good a servicing video as I've seen. Nice work
I have the same d140, i have done the deck thing dozens of times. I bought a extra set of blades, that way one set is always sharp. Thanks for sharing.
Good one Adam, i just did the same on my LA125 for its winter hibination. One suggestion, when you sharpen the blades put a nail through the bolt hole and put it in a vice to see if the blade is balanced, the side that drops down needs a bit more material removed, do it until it sits evenly on the nail.
Nice job Adam on showing how owners can save money and learn about there machine in the process. I few items I would like to add to further enhance your maintenance... 1. Remove engine blower housing. Engine manufacturers have made this a lot easier nowadays. Reason being...so it gets done. What this task will allow you to do is clean out the engine cooling fins. This should be done at least annually. Especially with the v twin B&S engines because they are the king of dropping valve guides and bending pushrods. Most of the time when I have to do a valve job on these BS engines its because the grass has built up in and around the head cooling fins which leads to the head overheating and expanding which then loosens up the guide and hence my repair. You will have to cover carb air intake after housing is removed before you start cleaning for which I use a bag and a zip tie or tape. 2. Wash engine compartment down. This can be done too when the blower housing is removed. I recommend just normal well pressure. Get that dirt and grass out of there. If it is dry compressed air will work but if its oily/wet water and a brush work better. If you have a hot water pressure washer set on low works best. 3. Clean/blow out/off transmission. Is this a hydro unit? This task involves (same as engine) cleaning off/out the cooling fins on trans case. Grass gets built up on the transmission leading to a decrease in cooling efficiency from trans cooling fan which is located on top of the input shaft and pulley for transmission. One thing I have to knock JD on is their placement of the fuel tank on these models. Other manufacturers place the fuel tank in the engine compartment and battery under the seat. With this setup you can remove the battery and tray and then have direct access to the transmission for a good cleaning. Soo.. what you’ll have to do is access it from the bottom front (with deck off works best) with compressed air or garden hose to clean. Been missing you Adam. How’s the wife doing. When is she due? Take care man. I’m Looking forward to the splitter wars.
Excellent how to video . These videos can help out many people to do their own maintenance . I would have ran the engine for a bit to fill the oil filter and then check the oil one last time . I'm sure you did this but didn't show it . That John Deere looks very easy to work on . Every thing is right there out in the open .
Yard equipment abuse is rampant. Hardly anyone takes care of their stuff. They fire it up and when they're done they let gravity take over. When it quits firing up they go buy a new one. You can semi get away with it on some stuff but other stuff (especially a chain saw) you can't do that. Glad you're stressing the maintenance side, Adam. Next up, show your subscribers how to do maintenance on a chainsaw. Blade sharpening, tightening, raker filing, bar n sprocket maintenance, long term storage prep, etc.. You do nice work on these videos and inspire folks to git-r-done so it would be useful footage to show your subscribers.
Glad to know you have a John Deere in the stable. Great job on the video I’m going to pretend I did all the maintenance you did on my mower. Take care brother
Your Plug looked like it was getting the Best Burn that it could have . oil fouling the porcelain be black and the electrode be black and you see the oil burnt like glue. Your Plug was fine I power tune the Plug is your best way to tell the engine performance , good video none the less . nothing wrong with replacing plugs when doing your oil and air filter .
I always open the new jug of oil and dip my finger in that instead of old oil because "not likely" but you could get a piece of sand or something that could affect the seal.
@Seather great point, I pull my shrouds off once and year to make sure there isn't a ton of debris in there. Also make sure the transaxle cooling fins and fan are clean and operating.
thanks. moving to a s130, after having a 169 cub for years...with barely and work done to it. I know these Newer tractors are throwaways (?lol) compared to the old type tractors...but will be keeping up the maintenance on them and see how it goes.
Thank you!! I have not done this type of maintenance on my JD D140 but you make it look easy enough for me to do myself! Except for the blade sharpening…don’t have the tool or knowledge on that,
You can use a 5 inch diamter sanding disk and a single sheet of stick'um sand paper in 120 grit. Attach the disk with the paper on it to a cordless drill and simply give it a new edge. You'll be able to see the old edge plenty good and it will be easy to follow. Keep sanding until the edge is defined and sharp. This is how I do mine and its by far the easiest and most convenient way to do it. Only takes about 30 seconds per end.
I need to do this as well because our grass already needs to be mowed. Would have done it this weekend but we’ve apparently entered monsoon season. Not ready for the heat, the storms, or the mowing.
Man you hate the heat haha. Sounds like you need to move. I hate the heat too. I’d prefer 12” of snow and 15 degree weather than 90 degrees and 90% humidity
Hometown Acres I sure do! I need to move about 1,000 miles north. I haven’t always been this way but as I get older, I hate the heat more. My dad says as he gets older, he likes the heat more. I do love Oklahoma but I’d like to see some winter every now and then!
When you reinstall your deck face your cotterpins backwards cause most of the time you drive forward and if you're driving forward and your pins are facing forward there's a chance they can pop out so always face them backwards
You might check your blades it looked like you put them on upside down the end veins need to be in the upwards direction. That's what causes ur suction
I think you may be right. Thanks for catching that before I get out there and wonder why it’s not cutting. The power of RU-vid. Getting people to double check your work haha
Just for the sake of convenience, I have an extra set of blades, keep them sharp, then just swap them out. Saves time, and life of the blades rather than just one set.
Good information for getting your mower ready for summer. Thanks for sharing with us Adam. How’s your wife doing? Thanks for sharing with us. I hope you caught your oops with your blades.
Hey Fred, she is about 38 weeks right now. Due date is April 1st. She’s hanging in there as best she can. Very uncomfortable and can’t wait to get him out of there haha
When you install your blades your lift goes up and your grass side goes down if you mow your lawn with upside down blades you'll be ripping and tearing your grass apart instead of cutting it and diseases will come in your lawn and that won't be good
Nice...Thanks! Like you I didn't get to this last fall and need to do just what you did. I have the D130 so this will be a great reference to follow. Did you order that kit online? Wonder what it would price out as just picking up individual parts from local supply store.
Lot of similarities in our equipment choices haha. Commercial splitter, almost identical riding mowers and tractors. And yeah I did order the kit online. I think I went to John Deere website to see which one I needed and then either ordered it from them or maybe got it on amazon. I can’t remember. I bought it in the fall and didn’t do it til now
good interesting video thanks! A little question and advise:How many hours are on your D140?And i would recommend do not wash your deck wish a power washer because they might get damaged.
Hmm interesting I have the same mower but no plastic side pieces.. Seems like they deleted those annoying pieces fairly quickly. My mower was bought in 2018
Thank you for the video and thank you for the (NO BULLSHIT) I'd like to see a video on replacing the belt's. Also I've had Bearings go out And I know that they have zirks to grease the bearings but I've heard in the John Deere that the bearings are sealed therefore there is no point in a zirk Is this true?
Do you know how to get the blower housing off the D140 to replace the starter? I can't find any videos on how to do that for the d140! I try turning the bolts that seem to hold the plastic housing on but the bolts just keep turning.
Nice job on this video. You didn't check the sparkplug gap and no grease or oil for lube. It would have made for a better video. I did pick up a great tip. Powerwash the deck. Wow, that must save lots of time and do a good job. I spend way too much time and effort cleaning the deck and it doesn't come as clean as with a power washer. Thanks
They have blade sharpening wheels that go on a cordless drill. If you tipped your tractor up and could get under neath the deck you could try that. But in my opinion you could do a much better job and it’s easier to drop the deck
Yes, set the deck to the highest position(4").Then I just jack up the mower or use auto ramps to get access to the blades. Clamp a short section of 2x4 to stop the blade from moving and use a ratchet or impact tool to remove the blades.
Good morning Sir, it will a great idea to grease both front wheels, differential and the mid front axle ( like 16:37 on my video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g5EsAY3fzY4.html ) Keep up the good work and putting mix of oil and grease around the movable part on the deck is great. For your information, the bearing on the mower deck are sceal type for the blade holder/polies, to grease the 3 bearings holding the cutting blades you have first to remove the bearing from the housing were the bearing are located and removed the plastic sceal on the bearing, grease them nd re installed them !!! and the fill the housing with grease for the outside grease nipple. Cheers !!!
Negative son, pulled the deck out from the wrong side when it didn't need to be pulled at all, no blade balancing, maybe you know firewood, i know lawnmowers, you need a bigger lawnmower, come on brother, why take the deck down to clean and half ass sharpen the blades? HUNTSVILLE, Alabama checking inn
Does it really matter which side you pull the deck out from under the mower? And are you suggesting that you shouldn’t clean your deck or sharpen your blades?
@@HometownAcres grass chute out first always abd yes sharpen blades as needed and clean deck after each use but you don't have to remove deck. Likke your channel.
