really enjoyed your video i have 300b im trying to figure out and questioned rebuilding that pump and you made short work lookin out of it thanx mucho for your video
4 месяца назад
so far in the many vid's ive watched you describe quite well for the regular joe to understand !!
It was great to find a very simple yet informative video of the complete pump and basic functionality of the pump. And yes if you're in that deep it's better to do it right than to take a chance. Again great video!
Nice video. I'd like to dig into one myself. Love rebuilding and inspecting things like this. Love the fact that the manuals have specs and prints. Good job! 😁
I think this style pump was used in our 310A's, B's, C's and D's - backhoe/loaders. They were pretty reliable. We had the pump on our 310C strip the splines on the shaft. Enjoyed the video!
The farm tractors never seemed to have problems! The high hour backhoes would gauld the needle bearings to the cam and explode inside the housing. I did a lot of work for an industrial dealer and 9 out of 10 pump's they got for cores were junk! Great video Jon!the earlier nonserilised pump's had a filter in the rear cover that was always plugged full too!
i am sure you know but its the pump under the seat. need to make a special tool, basically a half in thick plate steel a couple inches tall and cut a tight 5/8 slot in it to fit over the flat spots on the shaft and hit with a hammer. if the tool is pointing forward when on the shaft you hit down. wonder if the pump is getting tired and drains back over night?
When I 1st started up you cannot move the head or feeder house up-and-down. If you rev the engine up it will move real slow. If I hook up to the head it won't pick it up. But once it's run for about 10 minutes or so than I can pick the head up-and-down just fine. I think I understand what you are talking about with the special tool. My buddy lost his pump in the middle of field. He fought with it for 3 days to get that replaced. I remember him talking about struggling getting some apart and that would make sense.
I'm glad to see you do it right since you're right there anyways. If it's a wearable part, just replace it! Not sure if you're working on your own stuff or if that's for a customer. I've worked on other peoples equipment from time to time, but not if they are in a rush, and they better want to get it done right. Unfortunately, I let a guy talk me in to working on his wife's Lincoln, and despite me being real clear about it taking a couple of weeks before I get around to it, his wife had a different plan. She hounded my wife about how long it was taking every day. It was the last customer equipment I ever took in, and after the 3rd time my wife had to put up with that, I had it towed back to their house. I get 2-3 requests per week for different stuff, and I tell everyone no, why, and who. LOL
I'm kind of getting used to them. If I wear my contacts in the shop then you can't read write up close but then the bifocal glasses are kind of a pain as well. Tomato tomahto
THANKS so much. Fantastic work. Best teacher I have ever seen. Can you also add the diagnosis of hydraulic problems. My 4005 JD only has 489 hrs and I just complete a full service on it with screen cleaning and filters and new fluid----found NOTHING on the screen and the fluid was pretty clean, BUT over the past 100 hrs the front bucket has lost lift pressure and the operation is not smooth. WHAT is going on?
Go uptown and get a 0-3,000 PSI gauge, get some adapters to where you get the proper hydraulic tip for your outlet on there, plug it into the outlet hold the lever back and see what your pressure is. You should have about 2200 PSI and of the needle should be smooth, if you're low on pressure then you go to the front pump and turn it up. If the needle is very bouncy then we might have some leaky valves in the main pump
You keep this up it will be like the old days working for mother Deere! lol. Who's running this show! Lol Turn the gun up! Lol thanks Jon I needed that.
Love your channel very helpful and informative! I have several older john deere tractors. I have a 1980 2240 I bought done lot of work on it. Worked on front pump and scv's and split the tractor and rebuilt my transmission pump with seals used old gears.It was leaking and getting in clutch housing and on clutch. It did good for about 6 months and it is leaking again. On startup my 3 point is jumpy and my loader. When it runs for a couple of minutes it does good . But if the front of the tractor is down the hill I am am bringing bucket back up after dumping or trying to raise my loader up front down hill it is jumpy and my lines are jumpy. Act like one does when low on hydraulic oil but it is full. Makes me think a supply issue and maybe the transmission pump. Wonder what you thought and what do you think of the aftermarket transmission pump from reliable tractor parts. Because when I split it this time I want to get it right. Sorry for the long message or comment but I enjoy your channel and you do a good job! I can tell! I worked on these old tractors all my life and somewhat enjoy it but I have a hard time diagnosing sometimes. Thanks hope you can tell me something and if you can't I understand. My email is also brianpreston43@gmail.com
The hydraulic chatter at startup is because your cooler and Reservoir upfront drained down overnight. So the transmission pump is trying to fill that stuff up at the same time your main pump is simply trying to get the three-point to the top where the lever says it needs to be. The main pump puts out more oil than the transmission pump so that's why you have the chatter. I believe on the 2002 series tractors where the two hydraulic lines come into the bottom right-hand front of your transmission case one of them should have a ball and a spring there. That should be a check valve to hold the oil up front overnight The other issue on that generation or series of tractors was under the shift cover there's two big pipes and they have been known to crack oh, the high low or reverse or clutch pack sits on a shaft with sealing rings and so does the PTO clutch pack. That is a potential for leakage as well
Appreciate you taking time to respond. You are correct because my reservoir is dry after sitting overnight. I rebuilt front pump and I think that check ball from down on sie of transmission case was up in the line where it connects to front pump. My front pump pressure seems to be fine. Almost 2300. Checked at pump and scv's. My hydraulics are still chatters at times even after long use especially the front loader and it is running off scv's. The rubber hydraulic lines are jumpy and the loader lifting up is Jerky and sterring is kinda hard only when it does this. I checked those lines when I has the transmission pump out resealinng it but didn't see anything. Wondering if I took gearshift cover off and start it up to see if any spraying oil down in there because you can see lines and pump somewhat with that off. It may throw oil everywhere I don't know never tried it. Mine doesn't have independent pto or hi lo or none of that stuff. It is just a 8 speed 2 stage clutch standard tractor regular pto turn on down on side of transmission case by your foot. Thanks so much once again! I was hoping to get it fixed right and hopefully not be buying stuff I don't need. I sure hate splitting it again because the transmission pump is leaking in the clutch housing again. Thanks for your response and time.!!!!!
The new S series is looking pretty good. On the fendt side its like dear.lord who will utilize all of that. The data five control screen compared to the old c1000 Looks like a very nice upgrade . It would be neat to see How they've set the cab app for adding technology Like your planter monitors
Very informative!... I have a 63 4010 and the oil runs a little warm, I thought, I have a loader on it running another remote through the one remote on the rear, with constant oil flow in one direction to another set of double spools. It works but I was wondering why the oil runs a little warm 100 degrees maybe a little more.
I have a JD400 backhoe & the pump is running all the time. I capped the steering port to check for high pressure leaks but it still didn’t destroke with it capped. I can destroke it manually with the screw and then after it’s started back the screw out and it always goes right back into stroke and pumps constantly even sitting with no valves being operated. Could it be that the pump is stuck in stroke?
I'm liking these shop videos. I learn something every time I watch. I have a 4840 that after running for a couple hours if you throttle back below 1000 or 1200 rpm it looses hydraulic pressure, the hydraulic seat even drops down. Any ideas?
first thing on any hydraulic issues is new filters, inspect old filters and clean sump screen. does it lose steering or brakes? check scv bodys for one being very hot quickly, does it do it with 3pt down? does it chatter the hydraulics when you rev the engine up? that tells us low pressure or high pressure issue. there is a plug below the right scv on the back of the trans case. with tractor running is oil dripping or spraying around in there? get a 3k psi gauge and check pressure in the rear outlets. is the pressure steady or bouncing, rev engine up and see if pressure smooths out. if its not at 2300 check other scv and then adjust if need be.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 new filters at specified intervals. I need to check screen. It does it regardless of 3pt position up or down. I dont remember loosing steering or brakes but the 3pt will be jumpy or not lift up at all. And when you rev the engine up it continues to chatter until it builds pressure back.
Chattering is a supply issue. The Transmission pump isn't keeping up or you have a high pressure leak somewhere that is taking oil away from going to the three-point when you select three-point be used. If you Lose 3 point but not steering and brakes it could be the priority valve , could be the plate on the bottom side of the three-point is cracked , Could be an outlet with a horrible leak , System pressure could be low
Is there a screen that goes in this pump? I have a jd400 backhoe and want to clean all the screen and I think my pump has a screen. Can this screen be removed and reinstalled in the field, or does the whole pump have to come out? (loved the video, thanks much!)
Yeah some pumps had a screen in the head. If you can look at jdparts.com for your specific machine and you will see if it has one and where it is. If you can see the plugs on the head of the pump you can do it in the machine
Great video and info. I've got a 2640 all the hydraulics function perfectly but the outgoing hydraulic line from the pump chatters/vibrates really bad( like gonna have a come apart bad). As quick as any hydraulic function (steering, remotes, three point) is activated it goes away. When you stop hydraulic function the chattering comes right back. New filters, fluid, and screen cleaned. Where should I look first?
Take the fill cap off the 3 pt while running, can you see any oil vapors or hissing sounds? Does 3pt settle after tractor is shut off? Scv bodies get hot to the touch? The chatter could be a high pressure leak. So in a split second the pump goes to neutral and stops pumping oil, a leak lets pressure drop so the pump pumps back up. Or there is leaking inside the pump doing a similar thing.
I have the same issue and have done the same filter services. I also replaced an exhaust valve assembly and thrust plate in the pump. Plate was damaged by debris. I’m still searching for an answer and can’t find anything on this issue. If I had a pressure gauge testing unit and the time I might have gotten further on this repair.
My son has a real early 4010 and the hydraulics on it pulses especially on the 3 point when you first start it. We put a gauge on the pump and it has pretty good pressure but it fluctuates real fast from about 1800-2200. We were going to try rebuilding it. We are both machinists so would it be possible to regrind those exhaust valves on a surface grinder to make them smooth again?
What would you recommend checking when you have to run the tractor for a wile in 2nd or 4th with a quad range to get it to shift. Front pump dose need a seal kit at minimum.
Maybe start with a transmission system pressure test. Behind the left battery box is your clutch valve housing. It takes a special Dr fitting. You can get it from the parts counter at the dealership get both the male and the female sides of the coupler kit and then you can hook a gauge to that. Your to speed and your PTO clutch operate off of transmission pressure. Your transmission pressure also is what is supplying the main pump
I have a 3010 John Deere and revealed the pump when I rebuilt the engine. Now an issue I had with the hydraulic system, and still have, is a harsh human in the system. It's felt in the pressure line to the priority valve. Not knowing to look for at the time I resealed the pump now I think there could be some issue. I did set the hydraulic pressure to 2,300 psi. Per John Deere.
Put a 0-3000 psi gauge in the outlet and hold the lever to keep pressure at the gauge, is the needle fairly steady or is it bouncing ? Could also be high pressure leak, outlet valves work good and don't get hot, same with 3pt valve housing?
Hi john great video,have a problem on my jd3650 when lifting rear arms they go up but judder i have put a pressure gauge in the rear spools and that gives me a pressure of 3000psi whitch seems a lot,if my suction screen or filter was blocked wouldn't my spools and steering judder aswell,the pto and hi-low seem ok and the arms don't drop overtime have you any experience with this fault.
Very high,turn pressure down to 2500. when they chatter at startup Wouldn't the 3 point settled down it's because the main pump puts out more oil than the charge pump If it still does it While using the 3 point throughout the day then you might have a high pressure leak somewhere Because Once the tractor is up and running for a few minutes the reservoir of front should be full
Thank you for this video - getting hard to find really knowledgable people for the older tractors. My 77 8430 has a pulse on the pressure line taken at the T under the cab and when the oil is warm the steering wheel will bounce if you push down on it. At idle the cooler line has a vibration as well as the return line from the steering block on the left side of the tractor. Increasing RPM's will shorten the vibration frequency and make it less noticeable but it's still there on the test gauge. I'm new to this tractor, but I bought it from the original owner and it's had good care and is in really nice shape. 7500 hours. I have changed filters, hydraulic oil, and screens were all clean. Most advice I get is to replace the pump but pressure is good and remotes work well. Based on this video it seems like a problem in the inlet or outlet valve on the pump - does that sound reasonable?
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 The pressure at the outlets seem good, but this is the first JD we've had on our farm so I can't compare it. The aux valves are smooth with no visible pulse but seem a little slow compared to our IH 3588 and much slower than our 2594 CaseIH. 3 point seems fast but does not come up smooth it shudders as it raises but I don't have anything on it and it may behave differently if I was using it regularly. Pressure was set to 2100 cold and would drop to 1900 when the oil warmed. I've raised it to 2200 warm. Thank you for the reply!
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 Here is a video of what it does - I put a clutch in it when I got it and was monitoring the clutch pressure, you can see that pump is steady. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dqRJaX6qQqM.html
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 Pressure at the junction on the high pressure side warmed up but before I bumped it up. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0GY1w6mXh5A.html
How does the pressure limiting system keep the pistons off the cam? Does the pressure compensating (relief) valve feed oil pressure to the pump case? There doesn't seem to be any other possibility. And if it works this way, is there a drain between the teflon o-ring and the final shaft seal? In its neutral position when oil flow is produced the valve leads the leaked oil to the drain line, but when the valve is activated, some pressure can be created in the pump case. I would be very grateful if you could answer this.
Pretty much yep. The bleed line that comes off the pump and on an older tractor goes inside or sometimes you see them hanging down from the right frame rail. And then they go into the brake valve on the right-hand side of the transmission case. On later models it comes up the hydraulic lines over the engine towards the front right to the cab. That should have very little flow. It's not a vent or while the pump is in neutral it's not a bypass for that oil, the only oil going through that line is seal leakage. When pump reaches operating pressure the destroke valve then fills the housing with pressure to hold pistons out, so the cam is just spinning in oil and not using any hp. The instant there is demand for oil the crankcase outlet valve empties that oil and pistons are engaged. There is also a pressure regulating valve or priority valve. It makes sure the steering and brakes always get oil no matter how much hydraulic work you are doing.
Don't take the pump to a john deere dealer to have it overhauled. I did that and never bothered to ask what the labor would be assuming it would be maybe 150 bucks. They charged me 943 bucks just for labor and I took the damn pump out and put it back in myself.
if the pump has a pressure of 190 bar in the cold and only 110 in the heat, it is possible that the pump is to blame or has another problem? John deere 4040.
Hey Jon. Is there a load sensing line on these tractors. Could it be tapped into to make the tractor have load sensing hydraulics instead of constant pump?
No load sense. But it is closed Center. So while no Hydraulics are being needed the pump goes into neutral and is not pumping any oil If you are driving down the field disking the moment you turn the steering wheel the pump senses that demand it Strokes just enough oil for you to turn and the minute you let go of that wheel it instantly goes back into neutral until you touch the wheel again or need to lift up on the headland
Mine ever goes to hell I'll put it in a box and send it to Jon Stevens. Lol I brought a pump into AIS engine in Grand Rapids off a 7040 and they charged me 1200 bucks with only a couple hundred in parts, then they changed the o ring fitting port size on the inlet for some reason so I had to have an adapter bushing machined to get the lines hooked back up. I remember on the bill they had 60 bucks for hazardous material disposal for the oil they tested it with. Lol Lesson learned on that screw job.
Jeeze they saw you coming! My goal someday is to have several bumps on hand rebuilt ready to go So when people need a pump We can ship anywhere Same with the hydraulic control valve's on the back of the old John Deere's
Question on JD 300 industrial loader backhoe. It was ran with front hyd pump engine coupler broken out.How long? ? Now no transmission or anything. Fresh hyd oil/filters etc. I think transmission pump is gone, but was looking for opinions like from you.
Transmission pump would be your low pressure side and that would run your reverser and the transmission and supply oil to the main front hydraulic pump. Your main pump up front would be steering, brakes and all your loader and backhoe functions. So with the front pump disconnected and the transmission pump working normal you would be able to drive the backhoe around with manual steering no brakes and no loader
Hi John, Thanks so much for sharing your expertise on the John Deere hydraulic pump. It was so informative I felt pretty confident I could tear one down to reseal it. Tearing it down was the easy part. Did you happen to produce a reassembly video? I’m stuck and the diagrams on the internet appear different than what I have.
I have tried several times I will get one done this winter. All the big caps are torqued to 105 lb feet of torque. The Piston caps are wear them white Teflon seals go. The four head bolts are 85 lb feet
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 Thank you for the torque spec. I was just sitting down to research that. I look forward to the video when you get it done.
@@gawanee 90 percent of the time if you put on new bearings you end up reusing the same shim pack. If you did not put on new bearings then you have nothing to worry about
At 4:19 are you refering to the remote outlet or the outlet line at the pump, also is 2300 the rpm or pressure? I have a 1120 chattering if the loader controls are moved quickly & held open(same for 3pt hitch). The supply pump and filters check ok. Thx
Pressure is tested at the outlet where you plug your hoses. It can be at idle since no oil is moving. Chattering is the main pump running out of oil. It can be because the supply side isn't getting the oil up there or because there's a high pressure leak in the three point hitch or the outlets that are taking extra oil
Jon, sorry it took so long to get back. My complaint on a 2008 , 4005 John Deere? Front bucket is NOT smooth, has lost good lift ability, and hesitates when dumping. I finally got the test gauge plugged into one of the ports for the front bucket, and at idle, the pressure is 2100 psi and 2250 at 1700. BUT when I push the lever to apply pressure to the test gauge port, when I go to neutral on the lever, the pressure drops rather quickly to about 200 psi. I push the lever again and the pressure is up to 2200 and then put the lever in the neutral position and the pressure drops again to 200 and lower if it sits a bit. Should I test each of the 4 lines to the bucket separately? Could the problem be in the valve body?
Hi, I am working on the smaller displacement pump R68385. I have a question on the crankcase outlet valve, I removed the valve, seat, spring and body as directed by the manual but the pin is stuck in the hole as though it has been driven in and of course no way to extract it, it is about .145 in hardened with no way to the back side. Any ideas? EDM maybe? Thanks Tad
Hi Jon,have to replace the pump in our 4955,service manager at our local Deere dealership seems to think that we have to roll the front ent out to remove the pump,I’m going to to work myself so I would prefer not to as that’s a heavy piece to move around,also once I’m in there anything else to check once it’s disassembled? Thanks in advance
That's how I did it on the 55 and 60 series was just took the front suitcase weights off and then rolled the the whole front axle and the fuel tank and that whole works I went forward. On a couple 4650 I just popped the fuel tank off and the radiator and came out the top. If tractor is over 6k hrs I would change damper, maybe do cooler hoses while there. Depending on hrs now might be a good time for water pump.
Ok thanks,I am replacing it with a pump from A&I,reading posts other tractor forums it looks like these pumps don’t last as long,this is a 10,000 hr tractor and now just runs the grain cart,about 200 hrs a year,hope I made the right choice
We are moving away from aftermarket pumps, we rebuild them because we know that oem parts can make a 5k hour pump, aftermarket pumps some last good, one guy we changed 3 pumps to get 1 that lasted more than a day. This winter I want to setup a pump stand for running them.
Hello Jon. I had a track rod end break so while putting a new one on and checking things out noticed the bolt for the spindle arm off the steering motor wasn’t over tight. Do you know if that’s a tapered shaft? Book says it should be 300lb/ft tight. But no way of getting a socket in there as axle so close.
I have a 6030 that has no out put going forward from the filter housing when oil warms up. Checked the strainer and replaced the filter with no result.
thanks on video....one question...is it possible to that pump for ezample dead bring back into life IF ..we put inside pump all new that stuff into pump(like rubber rings,bars etc)does t it mean te pump got big chance to work again ..?Thanks in advance pal...regards from Serbia..
The seal that is leaking is inside, you might need a shaft but you might not ! But yes, put a internal seal, the big seal that you see outside and shaft if need be.
Hi, how many labor hours is a john deere dealer supposed to charge you for rebuilding a 4440 hydraulic pump? That's just rebuilding the pump if you take it out and put it back in yourself. I have looked online for the "flatrate" and can't find it.
My 2040 '83 has the same type of pump. The only problem seems to be that the outer shaft seal is leaking. My question is: Can this seal be replaced by pulling the seal out without taking the pump apart? This seal can be bought separately and it doesn't cost much. It's worth to try if it's possible. The usual procedure to remove a shaft seal is to drill 2 small holes in the seal and put screws into these holes and pull the seal out. Can this be done on this pump?
That outer seal is more of a keep dirt out kind of seal then keep oil in. There should be an O-ring behind that seal that does the majority of keeping oil in
Hello John. Do you know why the pto on my 4055 disengages at low revs when I change gear. Only seems to do it when I go from 2nd to 3rd but I see the pto lever twitch on all gears. I’ve had the one transmission accumulated regassed. Is there more than one?
I would check system pressure. I think most of them are at 160 or 170 There could be some other issues related to gears 2 and 3 but it might be just something as simple as low pressure
I have 2950 and once the fluid gets warm my steering jerks left and right also the remotes and lift arms are chattery. Replaced transmission pump, check pto, redone hi/low and checked everything internally. Any ideas? Figured only thing I’m down to is the steering valve and front pump.
You checked them lines while you were there internally The 3 pt hitch valve can be a major leak And it could be the steering or it could be the front pump or the outlets
Yes checked the lines inside. Checked the screen, flushed the system, zero debris. The steering starts jerking before the lift arms and outlets start the chattering. Only does it when the oil gets hot
i start in the shop then at 8 am i work for ziegler as a customer service rep. i am free to the farmer to help set combines, planters sprayers and technology.
4 месяца назад
as far as the pump pressure when starting, the sillynoid that bypasses so not to pull the engine down is that activated by a little oil pressure line going from the pump to the trany?? so when cranking pressure builds to a point that stops the pump building pressure allowing the engine to crank faster and avoid blowing seals
On the 8650, it was a stock part. The hot wire that powers the starter powers that
3 месяца назад
ok I got a new steering valve hooked it all up now the steering started to turn and stopped the front bucket wont do nothing the tractor goes into gear fine no problems no front bucket or steering no leaks starts and runs great ?
3 месяца назад
backhoe works fine
3 месяца назад
I dont know what could be wrong could I have gotten the two hoeses on the right side of the steering valve backwards?
Have a 1970 jd 400 industrial with backhoe. Pump started leaking we pulled it apart got pump out. Inspected front seal area and it had 3 prongs around the shaft. Is this correct? I don’t think so but it appears it is an internal seal? Please advise!
I would think not since no oil is being pumped when you pressure gauge. At 1000 rpm if there was a demand for oil that would be 4000 pulses a minute. Your not going to see that.
I have a 2650 and have same problem..at idle speed the pump is cliking..like that "klok klok klok" and few seconds is ok than is the same story... do you know what is this.. the shaft and the bearings are replaced..
Hi Jon, I have a 2140 and after lifting a large very heavy log I lost all hydraulics, I’m being told different things that it could be the front pump but also told that something internal may have popped out. Not sure what this means but they’re telling me we need to crack the tractor open to get to this. It’s a great old tractor and I want to keep it going but I’m being quoted big bucks to get it fixed. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Ok, pto, transmission is from the charge pump so that says its working Brakes. Steering and hydraulics are from main pump, since brakes work the main pump is working. Take fill cap on 3pt off, do you hear hissing or see oil spraying around?
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 I really appreciate you taking the time to assist on this one Jon. There is no oil spraying around but there does sound like hissing.
Try taking this little valve apart making sure that the Spring is not broken And the valve moves freely in the housing Can you rent one of the middle scope cameras From an auto store? Go into your fill cap and just kind of look around see ground see if anything is bent or broken and then start to tractor and see if any oil is leaking partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/83687/referrer/navigation/pgId/392346966
Greetings from Romania! What brand of repair kit would you recommend for a JD 3040 pump? Would you recommend changing everything inside the pump? The bearings ,o ring,seal are junk. The shaft looks good,only a few scraches ,but not where the needle rolers are. They don t have complete kits at the JD dealerships in Romania. In what situation you won t recommend rebuilding the pump,when there is play in the holes where the pistons go? I really need your help,i don t want to spend 600 USD for a repair kit if the pump is useless. Have you ever heard of Vapormatic repair kits ,are they any good? Thanks in advance for any advice !
Greetings! Have not heard of that kit. If you have a tech manual for the specs of putting the pump together you can measure bore in housing and diameter of piston to see what the clearance is. Maybe I should do a video on that?! With our experience of aftermarket vs rebuilding I would completely rebuild a pump before getting aftermarket stuff. We have found a couple bad housings. Not often. If you find a bad housing go to the salvage yard and get another pump and put your parts into.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 Thanks alot for your quick reply! My pump from what i can see is the original JD pump . The aftermarket pumps really are junk! I will search for HQ repair kit! Thank you very much!
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 Yes! I am sure a video on evaluating a pump in detail will be much appreciated. It s hard to make a decision on going new aftermarket vs rebuild with HQ kit,if you are not sure the pump s housing holes parameters are right... But your advice is very good,i can buy a housing if i see that mine has defects. Can you tell me what repair kits do you use? Maybe i can find them here in Romania. Thanks again ,keep the videos coming!
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 Hi,Jon! Can you give me your e mail adress to send you some photos and ask you something about something that i discovered in the pump? Thank you!
Jon, a question, we repaired the main hydraulic pump on a 1830(2030) JD and once installed the hydraulics worked well but once we return the control levers to neutral the pump makes a rather loud noise and completely goes away again once you operate any control lever. I’m wondering if this noise might be the stroke control valve or other internal valve bypassing. The noise isn’t a screeching or hissing sound but rather a very noisy and high frequency pulse sort of noise. You seem to know what you’re talking about after watching your videos and really appreciate your information.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 indeed, leakages will cause heat. What’s strange about this unit is that adjusting the stroke control valve doesn’t change a thing regarding the noise but operating the control valves immediately stops the noise, and even moving the PTO lever in certain positions or holding up on this PTO lever also stops the noise until you release it. I’m wondering if there is leakage at the stroke control valve which holds the pistons off the cam. Just wondering if someone else has experienced this out there? I don’t have a pressure gauge to test it and the owner has taken the tractor as it’s working and he needs to feed the horses etc.
@@angusgillingham2323 maybe the noise is on the low side or the transmission pump side of the hydraulic circuit. By using a function the noise changes and if one of them functions of the PTO while the PTO is from the transmission pump and not the main pump.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 another bit of information on this Jon is that when the other pump was on the tractor, the rebuilt one that I removed, the hydraulic function was very jumpy when a control lever was activated. I’m not sure if this was of any consequence or not, but probably not. This rebuilt pump, rebuilt in Turkey I believe, kept blowing out the outside shaft seal, so I repaired the original pump and once installed I got this high frequency vibration (noise,chattering) from the system. The hydraulics work excellent now, without the jumping action, but has this noise.
@@angusgillingham2323 from reading a lot of comments and answers in different jd channels, I am sure that your problem is too high pressure on your high-pressure pump. You need to turn it down at the screw sitting on the flat nut on the bottom of pump. Apparently this condition can quickly ruin your pump. (.....as read somewhere else) hope this is not too late. My problem is very different. I bought a 3140 with front loader and blade with hydraulic valves fitted that let the oil just run through into the 3p casing. No pressure build up at hi-pressure pump. Everything works fine at high revs but the trans pump falls behind at low
Jon, I have a 4430 that i do not know the history on. I bought it sight unseen. Has no hydraulics at all. IT wont steer nor will the 3 pt lift. It does have brakes, clutch works fine and runs forward. I wish i would have seen your video where you say those main pumps very seldom go out. I just bought a rebuilt one for $1300. Did not change the problem. I did not know that these tractors have another pump in the tranny. When i bought in the pto shaft leaked horribly. Would leak most of the fluid out over night. Any ideas or have you seen this problem before? Thanks in advance. Mike
There is an O ring that goes around the pto shaft, with any luck that is the leak and simple fix. If you have brakes but no steering that's odd, would have to just do diagnostic work.
The transmission pump supplies Pressure for the traction clutch the p t o clutch and the two speed. Also supplies oil to the main pump. The main pump supplies for steering brake and accessories.
We've got an 8440 that after about 5 minutes you lose all hydraulic pressure and it won't even pick the seat up, would that be the stroke control valve and where could I find that. Also all filters are new and screens are clean.
Do you lose the steering? Do you lose ground Drive? Does Tractor have 3 point? With a pressure gauge in one of the SCV Outlets what is your main pressure?
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 it loses steering it has a 3 point it will only go down when it messes up. I don't know what the pressure is and if u stop after it messes up you won't be able to get it to move again although it will go into gear
Talk to your dear dealer and see if you can get the Dr ports and gauge set. See what Lube pressure is and charge pressure after it fails. Could be bad trans pump?
Hi John, I have a question for you that I can't seem to get answered by anyone. I have a John Deere 8440 with a rotary pump in it and the pump went bad 2 years ago and we put a remand in it from Worthington Ag And ever since then it blows the orings out on the caps That hold the pistons in And of course it was Past warranty when it started happening.The other strange thing is that it's always a different cap that leaksIt's never the same one every time. I am using OEM parts from John Deere to replace the oring and Teflon washer. Wondering if you have any suggestions as to what could cause that Before I go and buy a brand new pump. Thanks in advance
Well that's a good question. I think the O-rings under the Caps are more of a victim of a symptom than the symptom itself. I would open the pump up and look at the intake and exhaust valves. I have a 4-in pump on the floor a used one. I can put a kit in it you bring that one up and we'll look at that pump and see what we see inside. If we can find something and put an o-ring kit and seal kit in the pump and send you home?!
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 That would be great except I am in Michigan - little hike. I have decided after the last two day that I am replacing the pump again because it is costing me downtime. Would it be possible that some thing on the exit side is restricting flow? Everything seems to work correctly when it is operating. John Deere service informed me that the pumps form Worthington are junk but who knows. Any thoughts would help.
Them aftermarket pumps don't have a good reputation. Would be interesting to take that pump apart. I would check around the tractor for high pressure leaks.
This same pump is installed on farm tractorJD 2640, where can I conect the pressure gauge for testing, what is the port in the main pump? the standby pressure adjustment screw is location in down side tractor.
If you can find a spot to T into. But just plug a 3500 psi Guage into where you plug impliment hoses. Move the lever one way and the pressure should show.
Hello! I have 2650 and have same problem..at idle speed the pump is cliking..like that "klok klok klok" and few seconds is ok than is the same story... do you know what is this.. the shaft and the bearings are replaced..
First thing, I'd check is the rubber bushings on the pump drive up front. If it goes away, won't you rip the engine not a little bit? You probably have internal leaks on the low pressure circuit. Like you're p t o clutch, reverser, or even leaking pipes
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 ok thank you for answer. Probably is leaking fault because I noticed the hidraulic is vibrating when I lifting. Especially when engine is idle.
I have a JD 310B, brakes started to go flat in about 10 min. Found a small leak in the brake line, flanged and union, blead brakes and nice and hard. Started the engine and all hydraulics. Loader, backhoe, outriggers, transmission nothing works. The pump to crank coupler is intact. Need help where should I start? Oil is clean, trans. filter and main is clean. Cracked outrigger hose and had some pressure, ran engine and no pressure no any location
Looks like a have/had oil at the main pump, I'm in the process of removing the pump, just check the trans oil relief value. What is the stoker control valve? @@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754
Thanks I found the stroker control valve in my repair manual, so basically the valve should move freely in the sleeve. Anything else I should look for in the stroker valve. I did check the destroker with the pump on the tractor. Is there anything else that could cause the sudden loss of all hydraulics?@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754
Got a 410-D and the hydraulics are very sluggish and pressure drops off almost completly when using cylinders. Do you think thats a pump issue or something else?
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 Just slow not as fast as it once was when operating. I just got the pump now and i instantly noticed PSI adjustment was loose and backed out a bit and two same size plugs to left was loose. could have been the problem?
@Larry Hartley on the adjustment screw where it's a 3/4.wrench to hold the nut and a 3/8 Allen wrench to turn the screw, I would put the screw flush or slightly into the nut. Takes very little adjustment to make a big change. Once pressure gets low the priority valve comes into action.
I am trouble shooting a 410C industrial backhoe. Operating it was doing fine, then I noticed the hydraulic overheat warning light coming on intermittent as I moved levers. Let off, no light. I immediately drove back and shut down. Drained trans axle, transfer case hyd oil. It smelled burned. Filter inspection showed no metal. Hydraulic oil cooler had many mashed fins from previous owner, replaced with new. New oil, filter etc. 3 min run, and light has returned when using controls, off when let off. Noisy pump (slightly) Loader acted sluggish when raised,(first time it has) little jumpy. 6000 hrs on this 1990 machine.
To heat the oil up that quick, there must be a really good high pressure to sump leak. The next time when everything is cool start up the tractor and feel the main pump and the control valve stack. One of them should get hot real quick. Wherever you find the Heat that's the problem. Or a good place to start
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 The only leaks I can see are the left stabilizer and left boom swing cylinders. Would that be enough to do it? No visible leaks foreword. Thank you for your help.
@@timothycoleman8916 I'm talking internal leaks. A high pressure leak generates a lot of heat. That's why I say touch each individual control valve to see if one of them is getting hotter or use a laser temp gun to see if something is getting hot
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 I understand. I have found no hotspots. I started up, let warm up 5 min or so. No light when operating controls this time. I drove to my farm, got firewood on loader and brought back to shop. No issues. Shut down. Then in about 2 min I started up. Light was intermittent and faint. On full when any hydraulic lever pulled. Again I had no abnormal heat that I could find. I will get thermal gun.
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 Found someone had mounted destroke assembly 90 degrees off. I clocked the assembly correctly (lined up ports) re-torqued and all is well...
I have a jd300 backhoe type 4w3d s/n 088311. i don't know what year this is I'm guessing late 50's or 60's. right now my bucket is not working, backhoe and riggers are operating. I destroket it and turned the bottom screw up 1/2 turn. I don't have a gauge to set it with , guessing buy gosh by golley. I don't know if I have to turn that up some more to get some pressure to the bucket or not. Can you give me some info to figure where my problem lies? there is no info on the pump that I can see and I don't know which pump I have.
If your other hydraulic functions are working I would not be messing with that adjustment on the pump, especially with no gauge. Can you lift and lower the arms? It has to be something with the valve or linkage controlling the valve for the bucket? At least that's where I would be looking
@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754 There is a pressure control valve on the side of the transmission that looks like it feeds the valves to the cylinders, that could be a problem, I'm asking that Jon? i am going to get a gauge and check the pressure while I'm trying to find out why the bucket rams are not working. Thanks very much for your input.
I have a d300 that wasn't started for 10 year I got it fired up and let it run for about 10 minutes and the engine started to labor herd a kracking noise engine stalled and the pump front cover split in half . I was wondering if it was a normal failure of if I have a problem elsewhere in the system that let the pump go full beans and split its head ??
Do you know if the reman pumps come set at zero psi or do thay preset them.I had a stroke controls valve body split open I think it was because freezing water weekend the filter plug threads. But I still had hydraulic functions. I replaced the pump with a reman pump now I have no functions at all .
@@jimforsyth2. the remanufactured pumps should come preset. I would not sell a remanufactured pump to my worst enemy. Anything remanufactured basically means how cheap can we rebuild something.
If you turn your front wheels left Look under the pump and you will see a big fitting with a jam nut and hex set screw, loosen the jam nut and turn screw in a little at a time until you have 2250 psi.
You can. Use lots of grease to hold things in place as you put it back together. If you take the top plug off I believe it's like I use a quarter inch ratchet extension to drive the old valve body out it's just held up there by o rings. And then I use a short 3/8 ratchet extension to drive the new one in and that's where you use a lot of grease on the spring in the needle to hold it up in
I replaced the main pump, overhauled the pump in the transmission plus reopening the controller and still lose hydraulic pressure in about two minutes after running
@@jerryvaughn7523 you are not getting oil to the front pump? I would drain the oil and pull the sump screen. But yes in that valve housing is your transmission system pressure valve
@@dancaszatt7573 did you take the big hex plug and the intake valve off on the other side or the front of the pump? You take the big hex plug out then you go through the exhaust valve with a punch and drive that intake valve out then you can come back through the intake area to drive the exhaust valve seat out
We price out a lot of parts, sometimes deere surprises you in a good way and sometimes deere is insane.
3 месяца назад
hey I'm the guy with the steering valve , well I got a 500c backhoe and I've had all kings of problems so far I got a new steering valve and I now have steering and it drives good backhoe is working but no front loader do you know whats wrong
Hmm. If all other things are working good, I would see if you are getting oil to the loader valve, or did something mechanical go wrong in the linkage from the lever to the valve?
3 месяца назад
when doing this work I removed the raidator & hyrdo oil cooler the cooler was enpty could that cause the trouble im haviong putting alot of atr in the system? @@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754
3 месяца назад
the cooler was empty when erinstald@@jonstevensmaplegrovefarms3754
3 месяца назад
and now the hoses going back to the backhoe are like vibrating and the movment is jerky kinda
