I have a 1989 trooper w 4ze1 motor..last week i saw tiny bubbles in the coolant after a short drive..thought it might be the head gasket starting to leak..proceeded to retighten the head bolts..in sequence..like another 20 or so degrees...real tight..it has worked..thanks alot johnny for sharing
Question: Would you not re-torque the head first and then adjust the valves? Is re-torquing necessary? It seems scary to me to loosen the headbolt while the rest is at 75 pounds. And do you do this on a cold or warm engine? Thanks.
I have a 1994 isuzu spacecab with 2.6 efi. Mine has a rough idle i changed everything and still runs rough and goes dead but runs fine going down the road and when warm idling pretty good will my valves cause this
I tried adjusting mine 2 the specs.006 for intake .010 for exhaust according to Haynes but the result was very noisy. I went down a size in my feeler gauge and it was still noizy. I finally adjusted them by feel. physically gripping and shaking The Rocker and adjusting until I was left with the very least bit of tap. then I put Lucas directly on the top of each spring. that got my lifters to shut up real good and I don't think I'll bother with a feeler gauge in the future
Be careful doing it that way instead of following the manufacturer's specs. You could easily adjust them too tight, and when the engine is hot, it could keep the valves from closing all the way, which heats them up, and you could fry at least the exhaust valves. You see, the valves need to seat tightly against the head, both to seal, and for the exhaust valve to remain cool. The head is its heat sink. Don't try to be smarter than the manual. Embrace the spec. Buy ear plugs.
Yes, It's an interference engine. I'm not aware of any clearance addition caused by tightening the lock nut. The head bolt appeared really loose because I break them loose and tighten them back up one at a time, I just didn't show doing all 10... You can reposition your timing belt like I do in the 2.6 head installation video.
Great to see some instructional videos on the 4ze1 ! thanks!! was wondering where that ticky sound was coming from.. mines pretty loud in my Holden Rodeo (from Australia here!) i've hit 450,000+ kilometers, such a strong motor !
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 As recommended by the legendary Isuzu guru Jerry Lemond, I am using DELO400 5-40 or Shell Rotella 5-40. I have been very happy with this diesel oil. It is supposed to have zinc in it, and it is good for the engine. Use the same in the manual transmission and transfer case, or use synchromesh.
Hi Johnny and thank you for you videos real good lots of help. I have a 1986 isuzu pub 4CD1 it has a emision air pump and a rail of some cain on the exost manifold side but on the head Mi cuestion is can I remove all this crap ? and just plug the holes ?
something seems weird with the oil drain back oils in the head dude, i honestly dont know thes engines, but shouldnt there be a drain at the front of the engine?
kai konu I tried adjusting mine 2 the specs.006 for intake .010 for exhaust according to Haynes but the result was very noisy. I went down a size in my feeler gauge and it was still noizy. I finally adjusted them by feel. physically gripping and shaking The Rocker and adjusting until I was left with the very least bit of tap. then I put Lucas directly on the top of each spring. that got my lifters to shut up real good and I don't think I'll bother with a feeler gauge in the future
Be careful doing it that way instead of following the manufacturer's specs. You could easily have them too tight, and when the engine is hot, it could keep the valves from closing all the way, which heats them up, and you could fry at least the exhaust valves. Don't try to be smarter than the manual. Embrace the spec.
