YOU HAVE NO IDEA HOW MANY PEOPLE YOU'VE HELPED WITH THIS VIDEO!!! Great explanations, clear presentations, and very helpful, even though I was 10 years late to come across your video! Thanks and love from Indonesia.
Thanks for the instructions.They did help me even in far away Germany.I finally recognized that the spring in my clutch had moved when climbing a steep hill with the result that the vehicle failed when going uphill next time.The steeper hills you climb the more friction between the belt and this V-disc you need ,which means you have to increase the spring tension.It is easy to say that you need not much friction when only driving in flat aereas but much when going uphill to avoid slipping.
You prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a method to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my login password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me.
@Justin Jesse I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I have a oversized snowmobile engine in a 6 wheel argo. And it has NO bottom end power. Could you give a idea of what position I need to wind this clutch to?? It will barely try to engage the drive wheels at full throttle,when stopped. But it worked fine with a smaller engine. If I give the argo a push start,and get it rolling,,,,it takes right off.
hi, spray it with some kind of penatring oil let sit overnight, if it does not pop than hit the center part with a rubber mallet . I have never had it fail. P.S wear eye protection and good luck Scott
Excellent Video. You took the mystery right out of it. I bought one of these CVTech clutches brand new surplus, but did not know how to set it up for my JLO engine and drive clutch. Looks like the settings need to be based on the mass/inertia of the vehicle and the terrain requirements (slope grade, etc)
I picked up a 1986 Harley Davidson Columbia Par Car. Looking at the secondary clutch I can see it has some issues. For one it looks like the previous owner tried to squeeze a belt on there that was 2 in too small and it causes the secondary clutch to be open on one side and closed on the other when it's sitting still.. but the real issue seems to be the little nubs at the peaks of the spring mechanism - the part you seem to be referring to as the Helix and the shoe. The tips of the three shoes that point toward the helix are missing. There are little pins sticking out from where they used to be. I measured the shaft and it appears to be an inch and a quarter and I don't see any other secondary clutches with that size of a shaft. Not only that the sheave itself seems to be permanently attached to the linkage that connects to the rear drivetrain. My main curiosity is do they make some sort of replacement tips for the shoe? I took some pictures but I don't see any way to upload them here.
A little help please, can you explain some of the clocking positions and how it affects the performance, such as best position for hills, speed, power, etc? Thanks, great video.
Any videos on how to rebuild? My 1987 is acting funny. Low throttle ok, full throttle was ok until I installed new belt. Now at full throttle it will just act like it drops into low gear and suddenly slows the cart way down and starts jerking like the primary and second clutch can't get back in sync. Governor is removed. Tried the spring behind throttle trick. There is a definite wear mark from belt after 33 years on the primary. Secondary seems fine but I just feel something is causing the issue in it. I did remove and found bolt loose when changing the belt. Problem didn't change. Still has all the buttons. Any ideas?
Having a hard time finding something that can be used as the heavy duty metal "U" shape he has at the top of his contraption, any ideas, what do you use??
If you don't have bending or welding tools (I don't) then how about cutting a short piece of pipe and a short piece of flat stock. The pipe has to be big enough to act as the feet for the U.
But a master who creates a great video would be able to answer how many g weights are (1 piece without plastic) for the primary variomat ligier nova, amber and are there several types of these weights, depending on weight? thanks in advance for your esteemed reply.
Hi there i got a 1997 melex cart it's gas and it runs great but when I get to a hill it's like im pulling a truck up the hill could my clutch be the problem it's been discontinued in 98 and no one will look at it for me and i just watch this vid could my clutch need adjusted so it pulls hills better its got a 13hp motor on it any info would be deeply appreciated thanks in advance
What if you lost your key when dismantling your driven bc the spring flew off really aggressively? Is there somewhere to buy those? Asking for a friend of course.
What does the next level of clocking do? I have a 2009 Arctic Cat TRV 550 LE, EFI, all stock. Would like to get it to lift the front end. Will I notice any change at A1. Do you lose top end speed as you go down the chart?
Awesome video. I was going to clock to B-2 and for better acceleration I was thinking about putting a 200-1200 primary spring in. I want to wake up my cforce 600 a bit. what is your professional opinion on that. I want to buy components separately so I can try to fine tune things. I wanted to start with that primary spring. Your thoughts? Please help !! LOL
Do you line up the "arrow" on the helix with the pin? You mentioned that if you were putting it to B2 that it would have to go further around? How far? Until it lines up with the B? And now that I have asked the question, that makes sense! LOL Putting the top into "2", you would have to go 1/4 more to line up with the "B". I think I answered my own question!
No. without spring, your belt will then remained deep inside the driven pulley and STAYS there, and the belt will not retuned to its outer diameter position in the driven pulley.
Using the chart for pin positions, the more degrees you use, the more the belt will want to stay higher up in the driven pulley groove (or the pulley halves will want to stay closer together) and this will cause the engine to use higher rpms throughout the clutch range because the belt ratio is kept "shorter" as compared to the stock position B1. Golf cart will be a bit "revy" but it will have better torque for taking off and for climbing things a little better.
Using the chart for pin positions, the more degrees you use, the more the belt will want to stay higher up in the driven pulley groove (or the pulley halves will want to stay closer together) and this will cause the engine to use higher rpms throughout the clutch range because the belt ratio is kept "shorter" as compared to the stock position B1. Golf cart will be a bit "revy" but it will have better torque for taking off and for climbing things a little better.
Nice video but he failed to mention just how dangerous a loaded spring is. That tapping he did to get the helix to come loose? Well mine didn't come loose (all the way) until it was off the compression bolt. WHAM! Right in the forehead with the helix. Stitches needed now.
That's your own problem. Anyone who doesn't know there is danger with loaded springs should not even do this job themselves and should stick to watching videos of men doing it!
