I have a 2011 Sonata with 70,000 miles that recently started the clunking sound when turned slightly left or right. After watching your video, I went to the dealership and paid $3.71 plus tax for the coupler grommet. Repair estimate was $400.00. There are minor differences from the 2009 such as the hangar hook and that the damn column and motor weight made it difficult to get it back up to hook it in (had to use a small jack and someone to help guide it) but just about everything else was the same. Thanks for the great video. it saved a ton of money. Note for those never having been under the dash before, take pictures of any and all connectors removed. You have to remove them to give enough clearance and you need to know where they go.
Did it this weekend to a Sonata. Took me about an hour and a half total. Didn't have to completely remove the steering wheel, I was able to reach the motor just by lowering the wheel to the floor. Dealer quote: $350. My total cost: $6. Thanks a bunch.
Brandon Schaeffer I have a 2012 with 73k Miles. Dealer quoted me $400 and said they had to drop the steering column and need an alignment afterwards. Spent 1.5 hrs of my time, $28 in parts (to include the ratchet and T30 bit). The old gear really wasn't torn up that much, just little cracks on the ends. Feels just like new now.
wheel never needs to come off and never an alignment either.. these dealers are useless and dont even knwo how to work on their own vehicles wow.. insane..
Thanks a ton bro!! Just did the replacement on my 2013 Kia Optima ex, it only took about an hour & a half roughly. Cost me $7 bucks total, couldn’t be happier lol.
Thank you for your video and effort to educate the public. Knowledge empowers the world. I did this repair in roughly one hour on my friends 2012 Optima. It was straightforward and quite effortless. The bushing was $1.21 from the dealer and was logical to disassemble and replace. I would encourage anybody with tools and medium mechanical knowledge to do this and save their money. EDIT: I just did my friends 2013 Sonata, too. I disconnected the battery and just unplugged everything to make dropping the steering column easier. If you do this, make sure you pay attention to the metal hook on top of the column that makes it easier to hold the assembly into place while starting the four bolts. Easy fix if you watch these informative videos.
Also decided to do it myself. My dealer wanted to charge me 4 hours labour. So I went straight to the Parts Department, bought the part myself, and did in in just over an hour.
@APDTY hey boss just did this , hard work for non experience smh , but I'm scared to put column back in , but anyway I don't have a air gun, and my coupler was completely shredded and every where and sticky how should I go about getting it completely clean ? It's cleared by still alot sticky plastic and domr want to put all back just to do this again omg, what would you suggest , , q tips alcohol?
I would totally let this guy work on my car. I'm always concerned about letting anyone work on my vehicles but this guy is so thoughtful and careful that I would trust him completely.
Thanks for posting this video, it helped me a lot. I went to my dealership to buy this part and they said no, I had to book it in because the motor will need replacing it was about $800+tax+labour, i said no, just the coupler please, he said I don't think you can buy it on it's own, so I gave him the part number and he said oh here it it is, $22.00 AU. Took me two and half hours to do as I have a Hyundai i40 2012, much more complicated then car you worked on, I couldn't remove the steering column out of the car like you did, back breaking work, but it's done. Thanks again, you have helped a lot of people, judging by all the comments below.
Just did this on our 2009 Elantra. I did not need to remove the steering column. I just dropped it and was careful with pinch points. It worked flawlessly. Steering is perfect and has no play or clicking noise. Thanks for this awsome video!!!
I scared to do it , wish u would shared the video have no idea what you meant, but need to replace this and Don't want to do more then I need to because I raise my chances of breaking more stuff with my luck
I just finished this job on a 2011 sonata... basically the same thing. I'm not a mechanic but I have a little knowledge. first time taking on a steering column and it was pretty much cake. took me 2hrs from start to finish. can't thank you enough for the video... $2.59 compared to the dealers $500.
VELOSTER OWNERS READ ME Thanks for the video! Ordered the replacement and just did the repair on my 2013 Veloster. Not exactly the same, but very similar. IF PERFORMING THIS REPAIR ON A VELOSTER Almost everything is identical EXCEPT for the column drop. There are the same two nuts up towards the wheel. However, instead of two vertical bolts in the back there is ONE horizontal bolt that holds the column in place. Follow the steering up from behind the brake /accelerator and you'll find it on the column just past the last joint. You most likely won't be able to see it (I couldn't), but you'll feel it. 14mm bolt. Remove it and it'll drop straight down on your face. (I don't recommend laying underneath to try to see the bolt) Definitely recommend a second set of hands to help you get the column back in place. Other than that, pretty straight forward. Do yourself a favor and disconnect those electricals. They're super easy to remove and reinstall. It's not worth the risk and frustration trying to work around them. Godspeed!
just completed coupler replacement on my 2011 Sonata, 160,000 miles. Your video was the most informative. It took me about 4 hours to do it working over a 2 day period. I always take photos as I work as a reference point. The second time i started the car my check engine light came on & is still lite, not sure why. everything else is working. What a difference this replacement makes. Thanks for the info.
Same problem for my car in India.First Hyndai service center examined and told that it will cost Me 100K rupees (1400USD) to replace complete colum but after seeing this video I raised the complaint to main Hyndai customer care service and then same service center fixed the problem for 2000 rupees (24 USD).
I have people asking me about the same thing you are describing in my video but you go into it in more detail so I posted your link on my page. Thanks for helping others with this problem.
I would like to thank you for your help with me replacing the coupler to my daughters car I had help from a mechanic we use your video step by step it was a tedious job just to get to that little thing but it was well worth it in the end I appreciate these videos that are shown on RU-vid and I appreciate you more once again thank you
Thanks for this great video tutorial. I just finished doing this job in my Elantra 2009. Took me a few hours because when I opened the motor, the coupler was melted and there was black goo everywhere. It was a nightmare cleaning all that stuff. Cleaning all the inside took me almost an hour. Thanks man!
Thanks for the info! Just replaced mine and what a PITA! Not sure why they make such an important part out of such soft material. Your video was spot on and got rid of the play in my column and averted a potentially dangerous situation!
Good Grief! What a ridiculously designed system! What a patient man you are! Excellent video! My Sonata Limited has been doing the exact same thing for months now, but it is still in warranty. Now I know what's happening, I'll go have a visit to a dealer. Thanks very much for your time & trouble to produce this!!!
Thank you very much for your thorough instructions about how to do this!!! With the 2012 Kia Soul, I was able to avoid pulling the whole steering column. Just got the new coupler back in and time to button it up. Even though you were doing a hyundai, yours was the most comprehensive video and it saved my ass. A big thanks again!!
Thanks for this video. I replaced the coupler on a 2010 Kia pro ceed for £10 garage wanted £500+. Steering column had to come out. only problem is I appear to have knocked or damaged the brake pedal switch as brake lights staying on.
I've just noticed my i40 has started making that clunking sound now, its a 2013 model with 47,000 on the clock. I'm going to take it to the dealership as still covered by 5 year warranty, awesome vid!!
I am always amazed at how worn the coupler is when I do this job. These steering systems have gotten a lot better. I have a 2017 Hyundai Tucson and the motor driven power steering performs much better than my 2012 Elantra did. I haven't seen worn couplers on newer Hyundai's yet either.
Awesome, thank you so much for the video! Did this on my Kia Cerato Forte 2L (2010 model). After the repair, the EPS light was off, but when moving the vehicle, the EPS light came on. I locked the car, washed up, and went to bed. My thinking was that the unit probably required recalibration. This morning, I got in the car to drive to work and no EPS light! I was waiting for the light to come back on, but after 60km, still no light. Magic!
You are a good mechanic. I hope you are paid what you are worth, and you do a great job making the video. Speeding up the redundant stuff like removing screws, speaking clearly, not trying to be an entertaining clown, and no stupid background music. I would hire you to work on my car, and thats saying a lot if you knew me. Wishing you success and thanks you! A+
Thank you for producing this video. It was very helpful. Was able to remove the steering wheel assembly and replace the rubber coupler. Problem solved. I enjoyed doing the work, while simultaneously wondering what my neighbours were thinking as the steering wheel assembly came out in my hands. Well, there's your problem :)
First I want to thank for this magnificent informative video, it is the best and most complete of all, many congratulations. I have a Kia Ceed SW 1.6 CRDI 115 hp EX ISG of the Year 2010, the 3 months ago I started to have this problem. I saw this video a few times, I also saw similar ones and I decided to order the Rubber Flex Coupler. I made this repair this past Saturday and I was totally successful. I do not have any alarm or any noise in the Steering Column. I did two different things in relation to the video! 1 - I let the car cool down 30 minutes before disconnecting the Battery, I think that in modern cars they do not turn off completely when we remove the ignition key, some things are still working and they are sending information to the Computer Centralina, in addition the energy of capacitors used the circuit takes a few minutes to dissipate. 2nd - In my car I did not remove the steering column I did all the maintenance in your place, I did not find any difficulty to have opted for this solution. Some cars may need to bring the column to the work bench but most think it is not accurate. If you have to bring the steering column to the bench, follow the instructions in the video to make the markings carefully, it is essential to avoid any alarm problems. I hope this helps to help someone else solve this problem. From Portugal is everything, thanks again for the video.
Good, I have a 2009 Kia Ceed with the same problem. Is it the same piece? Do you know the original reference in the house? You followed some video or tutorial that you can indicate or did you take a photo. Thank you very much. a greeting
Just a note, check with your Kia or Hyundai dealer to see if this part is covered under a factory warranty extension. My dealership replaces these at NO COST to the customer almost every day. Primarily the Optimas have this warranty extension, but is also on some other models for specific year ranges. You will need your VIN number when you call your dealer, ask for a Service Advisor, they will look it up to see if you are covered.
That is excellent news, we were following for a few years awaiting if a recall would be released, All the people that paid dealerships for a complete steering column should bring their receipts back for a refund.
Just did this again on another car. Another update for folks about to do this n a 2007 -2010 Elantra. Tha main time consuming part of this job is unplugging all of the wires from the column. You need a small pliers to squeeze the plastic clips that hold the wires and harnesses in their position. The motor also has like 3 plugs that have to be unplugged before the column can drop all the way down. If you are not a mechanic save yourself the hassle and DO NOT remove the steering shaft or remove the column from the car. Not necessary. It's also a bit easier to bolt back up the column starting with the 2 lower 12mm screws. Make sure the plate is flush where the 2 screws bolt in and also take note that the screws are actually different sizes( one short one long). IF you don't have someone to hold the wheel while you line up and start threading in the 2 bottom screws, be prepared for your arm to get tired from holding up the wheel.
Just to let anyone know, you can get a knocking noise, just like the one you are getting when your steering rack is bad from this coupling, even if it is still intact. I have Kia C'eed 2008, which has the same steering column and which had this kind of problem and I gave it a shot at the coupling. At first glance the old coupling seems like is brand new, but when the new one was installed ... ooo what a difference. 3 service shops were diagnosing the steering rack as bad, but it was this star thingy. Just saved myself 300 euro. Thumbs up so someone can read it !
It was possible for me to do this job without removing the steering wheel or even loosening it. I had to carefully operate 1/4 " drive sockets under the dash and it may have taken a half hour longer. Only one of the electrical plugs was decoupled and I also had to pop out the clip that holds the motor assembly wires against the steering column tube. My car is a 2012 elantra 4 cyl.
My kia pro ceed has the same issue and i didn't know what to do because this part for that model doesn't exist but thanks to this video i discovered that they have the same steering coupler can't thank u enough. You saved me lots of money.
+warren attard If you end up doing the job yourself we'd love to see pictures, or a video, of the MDPS motor as well as the destroyed coupler while inside the motor.
no sorry my machanic did all the work, but this video helped allot because the whole electrical steering is like the one on this vid, even thaw it is not the same car. they use the same brand. so because of that tiny rubber the kia company wonted to charge me for the whole thing because they didn't want to fix the one i had. my machanic wasn't going to risk opening it, if it wasn't for this vid.
Thanks! Just did this on my Elantra hatchback 2010. Worked great! This was my first go at real mechanic-ing. Real-ish. But more than changing oil and headlights like I'd done before.
You don't have to take the pivot plate off to get to the screw on the motor housing. Just lift it up. It pivots and you don't have to unbolt the shaft. It pulls strait out of the spline coupling once you have the column unbolted. just be sure to mark.....
That can be really dangerous and unsafe driving with a broken peace of plastic like this. Hyundai should of make that from a different material to make our driving experience little easier and better
have there been any other similar cases where the plastic(?) part gets shredded over time and later develops into almost -complete malfunction in other brands ? that part is a sort of absorber when steering the wheel, so if it's damaged it can lead to a serious malfunction on the whole steering system, as recently reported in Korea. some experts in Korea claim that the problem can be attributed to the material of which it is made: a comparatively weak and less stiff plastic or rubber material. putting aside its durability issues, the Huydai electronic steering system has another major issue; that is, the driver cannot steer the car toward the exact direction they want the car to follow, even in a straight road. this makes the driver constantly steer the wheel, preventing him from putting his hands off the steering wheel.
Just did mine. I have the 2010 Elantra Touring SE with 163k miles. Coupler looked like the same condition as the video. However, it was a bit more difficult than shown. I didn't expect it to be easy, but my car has a 5 speed manual transmission, so I had the clutch pedal in the way. My seat was all the way back, but the steering wheel didn't clear the seat like in the video. I had to unbolt and remove the seat. The video doesn't state WHEN to disconnect the battery. You do need it to run the engine to turn the wheel. Also, the bracket that you removed to get to the motor, on mine, which has tilt steering, went the length of the column and I couldn't remove it. No worries because I didn't need to. In the end, with breaks to get in out of the cold, it took me about 3 hours.... I'm not complaining. Thanks for the instruction. It really helped.
I have the part, and it looks like I get to try to change it this weekend. :/ The dealership quoted me 2 and a half hours of work at 120 dollars an hour. I found the part on Amazon, and I think I have all the tools minus the torque wrench. This does not look like a lot of fun though.
Thank you for this video. It helped me fix this issue in my Kia Cerato 2011 Australian version with 100,000 Km odo where the servo and the computer look very similar. Tried to disconnect the steering shaft with no success so I used a modified approach: I removed the computer servo by undoing the large 3x T25 head screws in my case (left in place the 2 small screws that hold the computer metal cover) then it was easy to remove the motor and get to the dead MDPS part. Installing the motor back took few small wheel moves until MDPS on the motor side fit into the other metal part with the spring and bronze bushing. After this repair I could feel the electric servo better helping the steering. In my case this also eliminated a clunking noise when passing over bumps in the road. Later update: I installed the servo a bit rotated from original position so after 10 days I had EPS light on and C1261 code (Steering angle Sensor /ASP not calibrated). Instead of paying A$175 to the dealer for a 10 min tester job I bought a smarter $250 tester that can do the SaS calibration (ASP calibration) for Kia/Hyundai plus ABS error clear and ABS bleeding and did the ASP calibration which eliminated the EPS error.
Thank you I have the same problem with a Elantra 2010 in Guatemala City, I already ordered the suggested replacement, I hop e its resolve finally the problem , we will going to change on this week . Thank your very much for this valuable help!!
Buenos días, perdone, logró hacer el cambio de la pieza? Mi elantra 2013 me esta dando ese problema pero no encuentro un mecánico confiable y que no cobre tan caro!!! Gracias!!
wish they recall this problem. My local dealer said I have to pay for the repair. High labor cost! Oddly, I cannot find this part in the Hyundai parts store for my 2013 Elantra GT.
It's an old vid, I know, but could someone tell me when shall I lock the steering wheel and remove the key? Thank you, for this outstanding tutorial on how to repair your car, yourself and on the cheap, avoiding mechanic scammers.
Helpful detailed video. Just did the same on my 2012 Elantra right hand drive. Couldn't find a video on that. The rear bolt on the steering column couldn't be fully removed. The bolt head just fouled the brake pedal bracket on the way out. So I had to remove the fuse box and then the brake pedal assembly before dropping the steering column. Took 3 hours. Still better than paying the dealer $200 to fit.
I hardly have any maintenance experience besides oil changes and replacing tires and it took me 4 hours to get it done with a little help from my Dad. Toughest part for me was mounting the steering column back into place. After messing around with it for about an hour we found it was easier to tighten the top two screws before the bottom two screws. Hyundai quoted me $290, part was only $6 from amazon. Thanks for the vid.
thanks ! same problem here with a KIA CEED 2010 .Official Kia Store wanted to change the entire part for 2000€ final . Finallyi paid The rubber coupler and hand job mechanic for 350€
Hello friend, thank you for your video. For the code reader, I would like to know what difference there is between the status '' history " and the status '' present " that the diagnostic cases put for the codes ID
Sure, history means they are stored trouble codes from previous failures. Status present typically means it is currently happening. Some of this depends on where you are in the diagnostic or repair process. Once a repair is completed, you can verify with the scan tool and complete a scan or flow chart with a repaired vehicle. You'll still see the history or stored trouble codes even after the vehicle is fixed. Some people will delete history codes, but they very much help you diagnose problems, so deleting them can sometimes be counterproductive.
Hi, Thank you very much! Kia Ceed 2010 was exact like this. in 2 hours it was done. Cost for the bushing was 3Euros on Ebay. Now the steering is silent and smooth again :-)
That yellow harness with the yellow plug you were fighting @ 6:25 is the air bag connector. I've never looked into Hyundai/Kia but Honda/Acura has a very specific safety procedure to prevent static electricity from setting off an air bag....
yes pretty much all cars have that procedure, the air bag can be dangerous or expensive if not worked with properly, as long as you use and follow a repair manual to go along with repairs like this, you can disable and unplug it and it becomes no big deal.
@@APDTY since 99.9% of the people watching this video will attempt this repair exactly as you showed them without using any repair manual or anything, don't you think you should have at least MENTIONED that that is the air bag plug, it IS dangerous, and there is a procedure to make it safe when working on the car?
David Jones, i was thinking on doing this by myself on my hundy elantra 2014 but now reading your comment i have my doubts, what you suggest me to do if i decide to do it anyways, do i have to disconect the battery? I thank you in advance for your answer
@@davidjones8942 well we really hope people are smart enough to look at a repair manual or at least watch more than 1 video if they have never done anything like this before. Airbags can be a scary thing without any experience but most are actually very very simple to deal with. Anyone concerned or new at this should certainly watch a few videos of removing an airbag and a repair manual is also crucial as it has much more info like torque specs, we do not do any repair without a repair manual which are all online now.
@@marcelombortiz7758 so APDTY recommends watching several videos and understanding thoroughly before attempting thi, especially if it is the first time. Airbags can be dangerous only if you go in without any research beforehand. Otherwise they are really very simple and dealt with on every single car since the 90's
Saludos, Gracias por el video, sin ese video nunca lo logramos. No tuve que sacar nunca el guié completo como en el video. Dure en total hora y 40 minutos. Gracias nuevamente 👍🏻😃
I went to the car mechanic today with exactly the same problem as described in this video. He told me that the steering column must be removed and sent to a spacialist dealing with this kind of technical problems. The preliminary budget 1200€. Afterwards I found this video. Well, before I start working on it, is it really necessary to remove the column before inserting the new rubber coupler in the steering motor?
👍👍👍...Very nice and informative video...I own a 2012 Sonata and had this issue with the steering wheel clicking...I couldn't figure out the noise to save my life..I took it to my local mechanic here in Cleveland,Ohio and he knew exactly what it was.I wrench on my own vehicles and consider my self an experienced dyi'er.But there's nothing better than asking your mechanic questions or describing the issue or even researching here on the Tube for videos and tutorials to pinpoint the issue and not assuming,and wasting time and money fixing the wrong part.I definitely could have done the repair myself, but not having a lot of experience with Korean vehicles or this particular issue I would've been replacing parts and fixing things that aren't broken.Once again,nice video.I will be subscribing...Wrench on brother!
I'm going to comment on a bunch of these videos. I have a 2015 Kia Sorento. I took the whole thing apart and had to remove the fuse box(on some vids ppl didn't have to). I took the motor apart....to my surprise...NO GEAR!!!!!!! Spline type connection. I had a clunking sound but mainly it was after the car sat a while and after the initial noise it would rarely make the noise again. I was so mad when there was no coupler/Gear. I put everything back together and was looking around where the steering rod goes through the floor into this white cover type thing. GUESS WHAT WAS LAYING THERE!!!?? A PAIR OF PLIERS that the mechanic must have dropped and it was sitting on this thing where to me may have caused the noise!!! Just an FYI!!!
I have the same problem on 2011 kia pro ceed. I'd like to know if the coupler piece on the description works for me. Thanks for the video, it has helped me a lot and suppose many other people, great job.
The brass bolt that holds the spring was not placed back in the correct diagonal direction that it was taken out would this effect the steering in anyway or should it be place back in the exact same directional way it was removed???
+Latinogoyaman Latinogoyaman I assume you are talking about the line that bisects the brass bolt as seen at 15:10? It does not matter what direction this line is facing when reinstalling. The purpose of the groove is to allow any debris to fall into it and out of the way of spinning freely within the shaft.
I finished the job and the clicking has gone away. Now when I turn the wheel there is a swishing sound coming from there. I don’t want to take it all apart again. It’s not the tires. It’s inside the column. Maybe it needs to break in or seat properly? I got all the funk out and replaced it with a new part. If I lay on my back and put my ear up to the steering motor I can hear it. 2011 Forte.
I was servicing a Kia Sole with the same issue - clunking noise when turning the steering from side to side & the steering would also hook when turning the steering wheel, I first disconnected the pinch bolt to disconnect the steering spindle from the steering rack turned the steering wheel noise still there. After removing the lower steering column cover I then I took a screw driver to listen where the noise was the loudest on the steering coumn, it was the loudest right inside the steering motor unit, I'm dead sure that its the same problem with Kia - I throught that it was something more costly - like having to replace the steering motor complete unit.
I traced down a side to side clunk on a 07 Elantra with 147 k to be caused by wear between the splines of the intermediate steering coupler and the pinion shaft of the steering rack. The bolt felt tight. Smaller, lighter , and cheaper crap. It's, kinda like trusting your life to a harbor freight flex ratchet for 15 years not to fail.
please please please help I am unable to remove the 3 for screws on the motor as they are EXTREMELY tight , what are my options ?? I kinda already striped 2 of the screws , I read up about using a heat gun what do you think ?
Nabeelah Jassat no do not use a heat gun, if you have already stripped 2 screws then stop and unfortunately you will want to have a shop replace this, you will need a special tool or to drill out the stripped screws and unless you have experience with doing that then you can actually make the problem much worse
TheCarambaTB replacing the rubber piece will fix the clicking and restore the proper steering, the light may turn off or it is possible it needs to be reset by a shop or dealership,
I had the same issue on my 2014 Kia forte with 65k miles on it. Good thing it was covered under my extended warranty. Claim was for 230 in labor 1 dollar for part. You would think Kia would design a better part.
