I have a build coming up soon (Mazda 6 3.0L w/ single Precision turbo + plumbing) and this the first time I've heard of King Bearings. Definitely going to check them out to spec some shells for my application. The block is done being planed, bores have been honed, and the heads are going for porting next week. Can't wait to get this beat together. I'm looking for 700 to 800 HP.
I own Vauxhall Victor FB 1964 originally fitted with 1594 cc OHV engine. The engine has 3 main bearing crankshaft. This engine either comes with Vandervell or Glacier Bearings. I have experienced an issue with regard to the centre main bearing of the crankshaft, the centre main bearing worns out rapidly. What could be the reason? These bearings are steel shell having copper overlayered with led on the top.
Nice. I have a v6 3.3L VG33E Nissan motor with a worn crank and it started causing knock about 160,000 miles. Bearing material confirmed in oil. I have had the motor removed and a used one put in. I want to remove the crank from the motor that's sitting in a tire, with the crank exposed and facing upward. I want to hand sand the crank and reinstall. Do you have or know of any basic guidance to do this? I've never done this before. Thanks.
Im taking my k20z3 engine to the machine shop tomorow ..everyone says use oem or another cimpany with 3 letters lol but i think il use king for rod , mains and thrust.. cant wait to have this engine rebuilt
Dont use em on aluminum purple power is caustic. Simple green leaves a powdery residue thats annoying to get off. The best is oven cleaner for 10-20 minutes and spray off with pressure washer. Repeat until desired results.
Hi. Do yo offer Rod Bearings for 2011 VW GTI, EA888 CCTA engine, standard rod, all factory std sizes. Vehicle has 83K ml, I will be changing piston rings, might as well throw new rod bearings. Thank you.
I don't know... I see this is a race shop, but...… Couple things; Couldn't tell if the video was sped up or if he was going thru it that fast. Didn't torque mains from inside out. Didn't set the thrust bearing then torque it last after all others are done. No arp lube on main bolts?
Probably didn't show it all, but I also see many "mistakes" like using rags, spinning crank when not torqued (journals are only in round after torqueing....)
Can somebody please sell me if I can change the lower thrust bearings on a 2007 Kia Sedona with a V6 without taking out the engine yes or no please thank you
why are you oiling the main bolts and washer to reduce resistance. the applied torque will be different in each bolt I will guarantee you of such. ask arp
B00steDevil I know this is 2 year old comment but it's just so wrong. ARP recommends and even sells their own lube just for that purpose. You always lube the threads, bolt head, and washer. arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php
Correct!!! I answer old comments too especially when they're completely wrong!! Well he is right about the applied torque. The end result will be different. :)
Factory Spec. on a 427 Hemi is 1 thou. on the mains as it came from the factory. Do not exceed 1 thou. if you want to make any king of power. Otherwise, on a powerful engine you’ll pound the bearings right outa there.
Not true! And the ford makes the 427 and it is not called a hemi. Chrysler uses the name "hemi" and that would be a 426. Rule of thumb on bearing clearances is .001 for 1 inch. If you have a 3 inch journal them .003 would be recommended. It give the bearing more oil for lube & it cools the bearing as well. .001 would be extremely tight & probably fail with not much rpm.
@@jesseduke694 NASCAR saw the light and they tightened up the on the mains and I recommend you do the same. Do not exceed one thou. on the main bearings. Sorry about the typo.
@@peterviceroy1592 well thanks for the suggestion but ill stick what I know works. How thick of oil do you run with that tight of clearance? You know its not uncommon to have a journal out of round by a .0005 . If you only have a .001 clearance thats only a .0005 all the way around. If that journal grabs that bearing it will spin it. Thats bad news.
Sorry to be THAT guy.. But.. @2:04 and 2:48 "bores can't be more than 5-TENTHS (0.5") out of round.. If the bores are out of round, poor bearing performance can be expected and possible bearing failure" Id say there would be an expected failure with an out-of-round variance of 0.5" .. Lol Don't you mean 5 TEN-THOUSANDTHS (0.0005")? There is a huge difference between 0.5 and 0.0005" And you don't "move the mic pins around inside the bore" of the bearing housing. You measure vertical height and around 45°from parting line. If you are going to post an instructional video for newbies.. You really should proof-read.. And be specific.
Dont believe what you see. King bearing are just ultra mass produce garbage from worst factorys in China. I ordered a set that had both the main and rod bearings. I did an inspection and 70% had defects with many having massive defects. The rod bearings all had a sharp divot on the side right down middle of them all except the top 2. This divot extended onto the bearing surface. The mains had multi defects of gouges and scratches, one of them had 2 long and parallel gouges that ran the entire length of the crank side surface. They were both in sealed tight plastic wrappers inside a box. They were damage by the machinery that made them with no quality control either automated or by person.. Any one defect will cause improper oil flow and wreck the crank, the rod and possibly your piston and bore. Should have gone with Clevite or Sealed power, I just threw away 50%, but at least I got Sealed Power defect free bearings now, not a single nick or minor scratch/blemish on them. Never again King bearings.
This is Dan from King Engine Bearings, I would like to learn more about your experience with our product and would like to personally assist you with solving this issue. Can you contact me directly at inquiry@kingbearings.com ? Thank you for bringing it to our attention.
@@markdennis5150 Do not mail order bearings, I learned my lesson. Pay the extra bucks, buy'em in retail store, open & examine them for scratches, gouges , dinks & plating issues there before you leave. Any issue I said will lead to non uniform oil distribution on the bearing and it will become a spun bearing and good bye engine. review them closely with a magnify glass, if it isn't perfect, reject it. See this video on checking bearings, start at 7:20, this is what the king bearings looked like. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sQhNIiPyTB4.html or search Petes Garage Engine Building Part 3: Installing Crankshafts. Good look Brother!
