Kitchen Cabinets: Building A Lazy Susan 

@bash5995 and thank you for taking the time to watch :) Hope they help.

Zia Zane and thank you sir!

Yes, i do plan to do that. It's a great suggestion. Thanks! -Pat

it was because i wasn't sure which way the rails would intersect. if the longer rail went all the way to the inside corner, and the shorter one butted up against the longer one, then i couldn't use the one closest to the edge on the shorter side. and vice versa for the other condition. It was just to make sure no matter how the face frame was assembled i had a pocket hole close to the end, but not to close to the end such that i might split the wood. Call me paranoid. Also, just an fyi, many woodworkers (myself included on occasion, although not in this series of videos) use double pocket holes on ALL holes drilled. The theory is that if you mess one up, you can back it out and use the other hole to realign whatever it is you're attaching, if necessary. Much of the time it's overkill, and when i can't use glue anyway, i don't usually bother. Make sense? thanks for watching, and the great question!

Chris Cunningham Hi Chris, if you go to the channel page (main page) you can scroll down and see the kitchen video series, if you view all of them, you can see there are four videos related to the Lazy Suzan cabinet. Please let me know if you can't find what you are looking for. Thanks for watching.

***** Thanks, man. Your videos are very clear and helpful. I appreciate the good work.

dwight Garcia I did not provide a complete cutlist for these cabinets, as I'm sure everyone would have a different one. However, on our website www.diyhomebuilt.net i have a tool that will generate them for you (for simple cabinets.). Thanks for watching and posting.

matermark because then it would detract from the dimension of the toe-kick depth. remember, cherry veneer will be added over all fronts of the cabinets for the nicer looking toe-kick and all end grain will be hidden. that brace supports the cabinet, but also provides a nailer backing for the actual toe-kick that will be applied over it. Thanks for the great question.

Hi Rocky, how do you want the plans? i can email them to you (email me at pat at diyhomebuilt dot net) or put them up on our site at diyhomebuilt.net. do you want the raw sketchup file? or a pdf? Thanks, Pat

Hi, sorry for late response, not even sure it's worth it, but in my opinion, the only reason to rabbet out the sides to fit the panels in is if the sides will be visible, like an end cabinet. I don't believe it lends any additional strength in this application. Just my $0.02. Enjoy!

Never thought of that, thanks :)