As a person who is brand new to Klipper (just switched my RatRig to it last night LOL), this is extremely helpful. Thank you for the very detailed lesson here. It is so much appreciated!
Thanks for all of the great videos! I'm not very experienced with all of this stuff, but decided to build a Voron 2.4 anyway (Whew!) I managed to get it all together and am running Klipper with Fluiddpi, using a BTT Octopus board. I've gone through all of the setup procedures and am ready to test print, but I can't figure out how to upload a gcode file! Under the "Jobs" tab where the "+" should be for uploading, it just says "no root, see logs" and has a red warning triangle. I tried sending it directly from Cura with a plugin as well, but no luck. Any ideas?
Great job man!! I am patiently waiting for the next video! Also hoping you'll do a video on how to setup a config from scratch! I have a few boards that I'm planning to use for some upcoming projects once I learn how to do config from scratch!!
Actually the best way to measure flow in my opinion is to print a single layer 100 x100 mm at 2.8 mm or 2 mm. Wait for to cool and then measure the thickness It should be exactly 2.8 mm or exactly 2 mm And should measure 100 by 100 mm. If it measures too thick your flow rate is too high if it measures to thin your flow rate is too low adjust your flow rate until your thickness is exactly what it was programmed to be. This works best on a glass print surface or a smooth print service and not a textured print surface. Measuring flow rate on a hollow cube has too many variables, On the other hand measuring flow rate by printing a flat sheet one layer thick in my opinion and in my experience has proven to be very accurate in calibrating flow rate. In fact when you get the flow rate calibrated properly the top surface of that single layer will be as smooth as the bottom surface with no visible layer lines.
Question: With your "demo" printer, aren't you concerned about the filament on the gantry? I've found it magnifies the existing vibrations and had an adverse impact on my prints. Once I took it off my prints were noticeably smoother.
I can't stress enough how helpful this video has been for me, I had revisited this video numerous times to use as a trouble shooting guide. So thank you for making this video!!
Good Sir! Thank you for all of these klipper tutorials, they were easy to follow and easy to replicate, i feel smarter, my printer feels smarter, win-win!
10:46 "min_extrude_temp: 0" First of all, Klipper doesn't allow min_extrude_temp to be set less than "10". Second of all, if min_extrude_temp: 10 any attempt to extrude filament ends up with "Max31865 Overvoltage or undervoltage fault" and firmware shutdown
Who do I have to pay to get my Ender 5+ printer file set up under the new klipper settings so I can make my first print?!!! Needs a working printer.cfg file. Bought ender5+ match 1st 2022 Amazon Raspberry pi 4B w/pi cam Klipper installed Moonraker installed Fluidd installed Kiauh installed Creality all metal extruder upgrade Capricorn filament tube upgrade Bed leveled before klipper installed Extruded 97.73mm instead of 100mm Screen(Desuuuu) and board successfully flashed Klipper screen comes on and heats
Great content, but I would skip the e-steps and flow calibration nowadays. Unless something is wrong with your extruder mechanically, anything different from the stock e steps will be caused by differences between filaments or problems with the filament feed. Calibrating e-steps individually for each filament isn't very useful. The same holds true for flow calibration. It's also notoriously hard to measure this with calipers and influenced by external factors like temperature, moisture content etc. Unless you get results that are way off I would leave both these settings on standard.
Great video. Just switched my ender 3 from marlin to klipper to get familiar with it while i also build a v2.4. I never knew to pull the nozzle for a extruder calibration. Always just heated to the temp i would print at and extruded. But it makes sense to do it your way. And i was trying to figure out why my printer was going all the way to the end stop to start a print and print over the air. I have a few numbers to wiggle around in my printer config to do today. Maybe I can push some plastic and make my first klipper print today😀
Since I run Klipper on my Ender 3, I have severe problems with underextrusion at the z seam. Pressure advance already configured and coasting disabled. Any ideas?
I thought I will find here how to setup my TMC2209 in the printer.cfg but seems like no one has the answer. Has been a week now and still can't find anyone who can tell me how to setup the 2209 in my printer.cfg
Hello. I got a Kodak Portrait 3d Printer and I installed Klipper on it. The nozzle has a triger switc and the home of the Z axis is on the bottom of the printer (Core XY). The problem that I'm having is once I home the printer the head is triggering the X and Y limit switches on the right back of the printer and the Z is on the bottom with a regular limit switch as well. After homing the axis and heat the nozle and the bed the printer start to print but the bed is still on the bottom (lower position) and it prints on air. How can I deal with the bottom limit switch and the nozzle switch to correct this problem? I also need to enable the second extruder. Not an easy task. I hired a guy to help me but it is taking too long for him to figure out all the pins and it's costing me more then the price of the printer. What is your suggestion? Thanks a lot.
option serial in section mcu must be specified i get this message when i try to print. What does it mean? Im very new to this and just installed klipper an hour ago and am at the web interface.
After updating everything works fine but the touch screen is buggy. When not connected to the printer the Touchscreen works fine but when i connect it to the printer no matter where i touch on the physical screen the response is off by alot, like i cannot click on the menus on the bottom right for example. Any info on that?
Any chance you have a video for hooking prusaslicer to fluid to make it sent prints automatically like octoprint did? It does not seem to have the API key function the same.
For the flow calibration is there any equation to calculate the percentage? Like in your example you have a .39 wall when you want a .4, is it just trial and error to get up to the .4 spec?
Hey man because of you I decided to switch from octo print no klipper to mainsail and klipper, I spent like 15 hours over the past scrubbing my printer config and testing movements even went with the uart rasp pi zero, keep up the good work and I'm sure this will be one of my references moving forward.
in case you decide to go back to say Merlin, can you just flash from microsd and that's it? in case of a failed klipper host install how do you recover your board?
What do you (and others) think about the baud rate on an SKR Mini E3 board that has STM32F103xx chip, which has the 115.2k as 0% error baud rate, but klipper uses and advise to use 250k?
Was an awesome reminder! I knew most of it. But the printable area explaination was perfect! Will sure link this video when people are asking about how to setup Klipper!
Hey, love the videos and all you bring to the community. I have been trying to setup my CR-10 V3 with Klipper and Fuidd but I keep getting stuck when trying to print something with a “!!Move out of range: 296.000 -3.000 5.039 [0.000]” message. Everything looks to work it homes and I setup the Z offset with the paper test so I am not not sure where to go from here.
Thanks for all the content, dude. I bought a he3d k280 delta printer kit with piss poor instructions and substandard resources available on the web, ended up blowing out the driver board that I think had repitier on it. Long story short- I blew out the motherboard somehow, and watched your videos as I tried to cannibalize a couple Creality boards and got so close, but ended up buying an SKR Pico. Your videos have been a godsend getting this thing to work
how do I set the Homing in the middle of the bed? I tryed position_endstop, but it don't work. Because x and y homing is good. But than I will home Z. The Printer will try to home at that, but my print bed is to short... I need to do it in the middle...
I keep getting the movement out of range error, I am using 3d print beginners printer.cfg file and Ideamaker klipper profile. Any ideas please mate. Some prints it's fine then others it stuffs up. I have changed the bed size to accommodate the Biqu h2. Any ideas please mate
Most likely an issue where your slicer is trying to move the toolhead out of the min/max travels setup in your config. (for example a purge line at y= -2 but config has a min of y=0)
Hallo, did anyone tried to install klipper for TEVO TARANTULA PRO + 3DTOUCH Sensor(Not BL Touch) +TMC2208 ? I cannot find any video or description how to make 3D Touch + TMC2208 work with MKS GEN L Motherboard
Hey man, I had it all setup and after upgrading the extruder AND doing updates on klipper today I have an issue with the bed leveling. To be exact it's when runs the bed map update the X runs to far to the right and slams into the frame. I haven't touched any config except the rotation distance. Klipper update messed it up or I did?
Make sure you have it setup correctly, ask it to move a fixed amount and measure it, sounds like you have something setup wrong and its double stepping or something
@@CanuckCreator As I said nothing has changed except the extruder. For now the fix is mesh_min : 30,30 mesh_max : 285,285. It was 20 and 310 before. of course right after that I ran into a new issue. The part cooling fan seems not to get 24v, I turn it up to 100% and it blows not the full amount of air. Is there a way to adjust this? Converted a stock TronXY X5SA.
I have a ender 3 converted to a 400x400x500 but also it's idex. Do you have a video or could you point me in the direction of setting up klipper for a idex setup please? It runs a skr 1.4 pro board. I run klipper on my regular ender 3 but new to idex.
Thanks for the info, helped a lot. 2 Questions. Can Homing start when klipper start? Can it be set, so you do not have to click it manually? Ender 5 plus, cannot use the whole bed volume, much smaller now with Klipper.
Hey man, excellent as always. I know you said you would do a video on it, but the accelerometer, which on is it? Want to buy one so I am ready when you post! Thank you again.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T-knWbh1Gg8.html Any chance there are guides for other things that might be causing issues with inaccurate movement? When printing a cylinder in vase mode, it looks like a drifting swirl pattern, each pass is offset. Everything on my machine moves smoothly, frame is square within a decent margin from what I can verify but I still measure 323mm of travel when I should get 300mm. Any help would be appreciated!
how accurate would you want to be with the e-steps? I got like 99.7mm, but I'm measuring it from the end of the bowden tube (ender 3) just before it enters the heat break (because its kind of the easiest place to get to) at this point, the PLA i'm using is kind of curled and hard to get a good reading on. would it really be necessary to worry over .3mm that may just be error in my measurements?
My Klipper setup doesn't perform safe Z-homing. It tries to home at the origin point (lower left point of the bed) where the probe doesn't hit the bed. How do I enable safe homing for the Z axis?
Assuming no other conditions are in play during extruder calibration (hotend is disconnected, tension is fixed), shouldn't the rotational distance be proportional the length of the extruded filament? I.e. the higher the arc the higher the extrusion? In your example it was disproportional.
Great instructions for a beginner. Just got a Creality Sonic Pad for my Ender 5 Plus running a Stealthburner and this sure helped figure out the E Steps.
If my single wall cube comes out too thick (0.53 instead of the expected 0.4) why adjust the flow percentage instead of adjusting the e-steps? Thinking that if e-steps are calibrated for 100mm and flow is set to 100%, I should expect 100% to equal 0.4. Instead of running the printer at 98%, why not adjust e-steps to compensate for the over extrusion so that 100% = 100%? Love the tutorials. Your vids got me onto klipper and I can't believe the difference. Cheers.
May have an answer to my own question: set the steps/rotations just the way you show and then don't adjust them to compensate for over/under extrusion because doing that might mask whatever other issue is actually causing the over/under extrusion. Makes sense (h/t swordfish45 on r/3dprinting)
Hi, great video. Just installed klipper with fluidd on my ender 6 and i got a wierd problem, i tried print 2 different models and both crash midprint (maybe around 50% of print), im clueless, log says something about lost comms with mcu. You have any clue what could be the problem? Keep up the good work, cheers!
I can never get the flow to work correctly. It seems to under extrude the 1st layer. So the hollow cube will come out with a wall thickness of 0.54mm with a flow of 100%. That means that the flow should be around 74% to get 0.4mm. But if I use that, it will be under extruded. Am I missing something in cura?
try measuring only the top several layers with medium pressure. If you're putting the caliper all the way down, it could be subject to layer inconsistencies and it will read a lot fatter than a a single wall is.
Only issue I had was the lack of support for my specific issues. The only way I seemed to correct it was to learn klipper from ground 0. Took one full day to get to this point in the video.
The process is the same as a standard klipper install, need to select the correct SAMxxx mcu when doing the make file and put it in programming mode before searching for/flashing it over the USB id duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Installing_and_Updating_Firmware
Love your work. Question about PID, in the manual it says after running the PID you need to run SAVE_CONFIG command to save the changes to printer.cfg. I did that and it created a printer(DATE&TIME) file. Nothing was changed on the printer.cfg file, any ideas? Thanks.
Some printers (such as voron) only use klipper, without an alternative firmware. Vorons are designed that was BECAUSE klipper is massively more performant than something like marlin. Where normally all the calculations and electronics controls happens on your printer's control board, with klipper, the calculations all happen on a pi and the control board is just used to directly access the electronics. This way, more complex and faster calculations can happen without a slowdown in print speed, allowing things like pressure advance, input shaper, and the fancy kinematics that klipper uses. This also lets you use a weak 8-bit board to get better than 32-bit board performance
It lightens the load on printers that have lower spec boards e.g. the Ender3. I found on my Ender3 that prints with lots of curves surfaces would have small stalls in the motion system movement and this caused artefacts on the print. After installing Klipper this goes away because the heavy lifting in calculating moves based on the GCODE is handled by a Raspberry Pi.
I wonder what YT algorithms think about that. Content creators often say that both up and down votes are good and better than no votes. I assume that watching the whole video is even a better statistic.
idk, odds are window get closed and liking forgotten when the video is finished - but yes, i think "viewer retention" or whatever they call it is more important .. then again YT is and always will be broken
Man your videos are great! I just wish it was as easy as endstop inverting being the reason my BLTouch is always Triggered or always Open. It's literally halted me in my tracks from moving forward using this firmware.
