Hi! Can You advise me with pinout for the encoder of this motor? I can't find any info or wiring diagram for that... or it is with hall sensor? Thanks!
Good content! The audacity of ko moto over rating such puny motors and thinking nobody is going to open them up is astonishing! I got a qs138 90h motor for £400 and its at least 3 times the power of that ko motor. Granted its bigger and heavier (15kg) but it can handle 60kw despite being rated at 4kw. Inside, the copper is plentiful and chunky 90mm magnets are so powerful that even with no input power if you touch two phase wires together the rotor cannot be turned by hand. When electrical equipment looks pretty on the outside, it can signal where most of the attention to detail has gone into.
Looks like a QS motor with custom front and rear end bells. Most of these lower volume motor vendors simply license or have a large OEM produce their motor.
The stator isn't very tall (50mm), but then KO is doing testing for a taller stator version. I know of a couple of people that have the new motor and they are blowing up Rush controllers in the process. I'm guessing the new stator is 60-65mm tall. It's probably just more lams laid down, slightly loner magnets and otherwise the exact same wind as this motor. It is very possible that they contract out the motor and armature and just make the CNC shell.
@@de-bodgery so the motor needs 2x the phase amps (at least, from the controller) to produce the same torque, with it running 1/2 the distance and 2x the mm2, at 1/2 the back emf... all it seems to do is modify the kV/Torque constant - same as doing the same, single Y pattern but with 1/2 the turns (which allows 2x the mm2 and 1/2 the overall length, so exactly the same as parallel Y)... copper losses will be the same, motor losses the same. so no benefit in terms of performance... ? might help with ease of assembly?
@@sn0wchyld Much shorter phase cables is less difficult to wind. The dual WYE setup will make that easier for sure. However, with dual WYE connections that's double the bonding together of many strands. It's maybe a little easier? Otherwise, agreed, not sure why they do dual WYE winds???
The motor is what I expect from KO: Pretty on the outside with issues that can be hidden on the inside. KO has some decent CNC capability...no doubts there!
Right...typical for KO, hide the flaws where they can't be seen because most people don't take stuff apart and even less people make videos on it! I didn't like the zip ties either, but they do only hold down the temp sensor wires and are not the binding for the phase wires. They used the right thing for binding, just didn't do a very good job at it.
I thought it might be, but I see no direct evidence that it's cast. Once you machine cast aluminum it's pretty hard to tell if was or not. How do you know it's cast?
@@de-bodgery dunk it in water to check for volume displacement, measure mass, get density, compare with density of aluminum. If less, then it's likely cast.
I REALLY wanted the motor to be better than this! You pay $1500 for one! The shell is pretty well done, with average attention to detail on the inside. IMHO, you are paying for pretty CNC work and not for a really good motor. I'd rather have it the other way around! Do the motor well and skimp on the pretty!
@@SurAsi-fr8dn You will soon have another choice besides KO for motors. EBMX is about to release their own motor and I know for fact that it won't cost $1400 and will be more powerful than the FSPEC motor! I've already seen it and it will be released soon. KO cuts corners every chance they get! I was looking at the new EBMX motor so I could point out weaknesses BEFORE it hit the market. There were a few, but nothing major like you see in the FSPEC motor. The guys at EBMX showed it to me so they could get fixed now.
mr gumfaw, can you annodize cast aluminum? the answer is no, like how do you not see the machined surface and know its not cast? lol common man drop the hate for ko and give us unbiased reviews.
Depends on the aluminum alloy, so yes and no. "Flat no" is not the correct answer. I used to be an avid paint baller and ran a speed ball team for many years. I had a very custom Smart Parts Ion that I built. One of those parts was a cast aluminum frame. I sent it off to get it anodized and the guy doing the work for me said, "We will see. Cast aluminum can be anodized if it's the right alloys." AS it turned out, that cast aluminum frame anodized perfectly since it was made from an alloy that takes to anno nicely! So YES, depending on the alloy used, castings CAN BE anno'd! Also, I did point this out that you can machine castings. This is VERY COMMON. Once machined, it is very possible that you can't tell if something was cast or not. I never claimed these parts were casting, just that if they were and then milled, it would save on cost. You REALLY should watch the video and LISTEN to what I say! You already got an unbiased review! Loose windings is BAD! Split armature lams is BAD! Lack of shelac in the windings is BAD! There is no hate, just honest assessment of what I find!!! You guys NEED me to biased so you can dismiss what I say and you WRONG! I show the same sorts of things in anything I tear down. It's only KO products where people like you claim I'm biased!
@@de-bodgery because they are upset that they had the wool pulled over their eyes by a company. Happens all the time. Watch ANY review or tear down video of an expensive piece of equipment (doesn't have to be motors) and you will see people crying about the same thing. Not that I make videos, but it seems to be a common element in what I watch.
@@georgeforeman89 People get vested in what they bought and look for justification for why it was a good purchase, even when it's not! I'm not innocent of this myself, but I try to research products before I buy them so I make an informed choice. So many people have been duped by KO and now they can't justify their purchases!
Actually they have! I know a guy in the USA that exceeded 100 mph on this motor. KO no longer lists motor wattage or phase amp numbers for their motors! Once again, they got exposed in their lies and had to take down information that they know is pure BS! On that topic, you DON'T need to spend $1400 to get an actual 32kw motor. The TP-128 factory wind won't get you there, but with a rewind it sure can! I've been working with a motor engineer on optimal winds for the TP-128 and the motor simulations he has done show 32kw is quite possible. I won't be going for that wind specifically, but rather one just a bit less aggressive that delivers 20kw continuous. KO can't say that for the FSPEC motor and they know it so they took down their BS specs!
It's disappointing to be sure! Those windings are seriously loose and zero shelac! QS had loose windings on the QS-165v1. V2 was much improved, but I still bound that up more tightly. I have a package coming with several QS motors in it. I'll be doing more tear downs on them soon enough and we will see if the windings are any better. Motor winding binding is very easy to do well and the only real cost is a little more time to do it well!
@@de-bodgery any chance you can show the breakdown of one your motors when you pull it apart if you get time. I’m trying a take apart my qs138 50h atm and am struggling with the back motor plate. I’m wondering how you manage to remove the rotor as those magnets are so damn strong.
@@lhk8558 3 jaw pullers! I have 3 of them in different sizes. Motor magnets are seriously strong and I want total control of them coming out and going back in! This is the largest puller I have and is needed for motors such as the QS-165 and FSPEC to get around the shell and push out the armature. OTC is a good brand. It might seem like the super cheap pullers are a deal, but they garbage and more trouble than they are worth! Buy good tools and you won't be disappointed. www.amazon.com/OTC-1038-Mechanical-Matic-Puller/dp/B00063WVUI/ref=sr_1_4?crid=13K30ZPGDSR4K&keywords=OTC+3+jaw+puller&qid=1682023926&sprefix=otc+3+jaw+puller%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-4&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0 *** Motor covers on inrunners are usually bolted on and sealed in place with silicon. I use an old kitchen knife in the crack between the can and end cap. I'll tap it into the crack with a hammer and that almost always breaks the silicon seal. Do that in several places around the motor and the end caps usually come right off with no visible damage. If that doesn't work, having drifts can help. You find some lip on the end covers that you can push the drift against and then tap on it with a hammer to push off the end caps. This does tend to leave some small marring or denting where ever the drift was contacting the end caps. I have this set. www.amazon.com/Pcs-Punch-Parallel-Drift-1-5mm/dp/B07QT894F7/ref=sr_1_45?crid=2B0I4COF0FXWP&keywords=steel+drift+set&qid=1682024576&sprefix=steel+drift+set%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-45
