On the order it says "90% and up". We don't know what it means. If it is a statement regarding rated, checked capacity, you got exactly, what you paid for. 4400 mAh is over 90% of original 4800mAh.
This is ridiculous how these amateur home motor builders like you and Electro & Companytrying b...shing people here that they can get 14kW for continuous use for these small size motors. Any electric motor you can juck up 100 times the current but for less than a second to get high power. You cannot run these TP-128, My1020 or EC4p for long run without burning it. Whats the point? . To run it with water jacket and radiator its too much weight. Just get gasoline motor.
Splach turbo, has independent display which is has 6 pin wire. The nfc has its own 5 pin connector wire. Red, blue, green, yellow, and black. Such a bad electrical engineering concept, rare on the market and hard to search and find.
@@johnnguyen8511 Splach won't help? Does your NFC reader still work? You have your display apart so you can look inside. Look me up on FB, send me pics of what you have. Maybe we can figure out a bypass?
12:45 that has to be battery -, all of the low side phase legs are referenced to ground so that is the heat sink for the low side FETs. High side FETs are different potential so they are separated
Any mosfet based controller will probably be built from N-channel mosfets. On the high side mosfets all the Drains from all 3 phases will connect to BATT+. There Sources will split up for the 3 phase busses. Low side mosfets, all the Sources will commonly connect to BATT- and their Drains will split up for the 3 phase busses. The 3 sets of copper pads in the center of the board are the phase busses. If you look at the TOLL package, Drain is the large copper pad on the back of the mosfet and the many legs are Source (except one for gate).
@@de-bodgery ahhh I'm so silly. Of course since the drain would have the heat sink connection. I'm always thinking about the gate driver design where it is all referenced around HV- and the phase. Thanks for correcting me!
@@GrenYT Typical mosfet gates can't handle more than 20v. Gate drive electronics have to account for this. So for low side, it's easy, just apply 0v or 12v in reference to BATT- and the mosfets turn on and off just fine. High side mosfets reference the ever changing pack voltage so they can "pretend" to reference a maximum of 20v for source to gate. Gate drive electronics need to "know" how far less than the BATT+ voltage is going to shut off the high side mosfets, but not be too little so they float or gate voltage is exceeded. It's a bit more complicated, but modern gate driver IC's handle this. I think it's this detail that you were really thinking about.
Wow i just built my mx650 76v 24ah THE ONE motor i think its 19kw, has there been any issues with that motor that you know of if you can let me know thatd be great👍
Did you look at the The One upgrade kit? This motor is the EC4P POS with a better shaft and new end cap to accommodate a different bearing. How is this fixing any of the intrinsic issues of the EC4P??? Its just the same dismally BAD motor with a different shaft!!!
Could you please recommend a daily commute electric vehicle with minimal need for modding for an average male who is neither overweight but doesn't wish to invest many hours in practice nor wear copious safety gear?
If you can get a SOCO TC Max, they are quite nice! I had one for a while until it was stolen about 7 months ago. Ride is great, braking is great. Power and range are average, but usable. If I was trying to buy an EV for me, I'd try to get another of these. If a small motor cycle sized EV is too large for you, nothing wrong with the City.
@@de-bodgery Thanks for your answer. What are the advantages of the 15" tyres and how does the City stack up against other more heavy duty but perhaps better value scooters with 11-14" wheels by the likes of Kaboo, Teverun, Vsett, Obarter or something like a generic Chinese T8?
@@powertreadssupremacy I don't know about the others, but Teverun...had to work on a bunch of those. The frame and build is pretty nice, but the pack and electronics are crap. IF the electronics were as good as the frame and general build quality, I'd recommend them, but 80% electronics failure rates is pretty pathetic! So the City uses 10" rims which is a standard size and easy to find replacement tires from good brands. Other scooters with smaller rims/tires...you are nearly always limited to Chinese tires.
@@de-bodgery Alright. I've narrowed it down to the City or going through importing the Roadrunner pro or Ecells step star. Have you worked on the Roadrunner pro? P.S. I wrote another follow up earlier that was censored. I'm in NZ and and need the bike to fly under the radar without registration so big and loud are a no go.
@@powertreadssupremacy No idea why YT does that to comments. I run across it from time to time and so your other comment, I just responded to it in line with what you did get to post. I don't know anything about those EV's you mentioned so I don't have an opinion on them. I notice of you post a URL in a comment that YT censors those consistently. Other times, I have no idea why the YT AI does what it does.
I just took my BAC4000 off my Sur Ron X. It had been sitting for over a year in a finished basement. When I put a freshly charged battery into it, and flipped the breaker on, it made a crackling and whining noise..eeeeekkkk. I only left it on for about 2-3 seconds. I made another attempt, after reading as much as I could about it, and tried again. Same issue crackling and whining noise. I just pulled it off an got the one blue end cap off, can't see any water intrusion. Full of jelly pudding. But that doesn't mean there's none. I won't be buying an ASI controller again 2 year warranty is up, and the seller does not take back ASI controllers for repairs either. They offered another at a small discount, no thanks. Do you have any recommendations What controller would you recommend (up to 15kW) for the Sur Ron that could be repaired in the future if needed??
I am all for new VESC variants...especially with higher voltage...but I am still cautious since the 3Shul crap that burned up on me.... and some amateur-isch design choices can be seen here as well... Hope this will improve in the final design of the PCBs
looking to change the controllers in my scooter, i have the laotie ti30 with 2800 watt 11'' hub motors the old controllers are 45amp each square wave i believe. What setup would you recommend? two of these g300 would be expensive! tried flipsky low end 75100 but had very poor results.
TOLT mosfets are 2.5MM thick. Even the added copper on the bottom of the SEVEN 30 which lays flat on the board has to be thinner than that. About all you can really do is lay some copper across the phase busses on the bottom of the board due to thickness constraints of the mosfet package.
14:00 Probably that the phase cables wired to the controller have huge impact on the heat transfer/ dissipation. Large wires = better heat transfer. Flat wires = better heat dissipations due to surface to cross section ratio. I bet that the heat transfer on the bottom of the pcb phases is less important than that.
Trampa STR500 uses those studs like you describe. They solder them in place too. Pretty sure they will never sheer off! The BAC8000 I have for repair, the phase solder pad is completely eroded away. Nothing to solder onto like you describe! I have to entirely depot the controller, remove it from the shell and then use a brass screw via the underside and some added copper foil on the top side to even get a decent current path back.
9:35 I imagine that one day, just like prismatic cells, square electrolytic capacitors will exist and reach better fill factor on the pcb amd enable to even be closer to the fets for improved performance by reducing inductance and resistance...
Electrolytic construction isn't much different from NMC cell construction. NMC can be a jelly role for cylindrical cells or many thin sets of cells stacked together to get a pouch or rectangular cell. Caps in cans are just a jelly role, but they could be made with many thin layers as well so the cap is a rectangle. Ceramic caps are many thin sections of ceramic with aluminum deposited on the ceramic and many layers of that all stacked on top of each other to make a capacitor. Foil sheets and an insulator between them is done already. Thin film caps are made that way in rectangular shells.
@@de-bodgery Yes that's what i'm saying. I work in battery industry. Anode, separator and cathode.. in a roll or a stack.. but for the form factor, the joules of storage capacity per apparent surface on teh pcb would be better if square than round... this woudl allow to stack more joules or to stack then closer to the fets
@@Doctorbasss Yes...well can style electrolytics are abundant and cheap. Probably why you see them so much. I do agree that close as possible to the mosfets is best. I've been following your YT channel for years. Sometimes I watch your content more than others. I don't think I knew you worked on batteries for a living...just as a hobby.
@@de-bodgery I dont share my consultingwork on the internet. Only personnal projects. I indirectly worked on projects for Lucid, Tesla, Rivian, ZERO, Rimac, BRP and many others. Last time I was employe I was developping ultra quick laser welding machine for large EV battery production.
Hey man I'm an avid viewer of your content, love what you're doing. I'm a motor manufacturer based out of India, would love to connect and share a chat. 👍🏻
I'm surprised that the industry seems to be moving towards voltages higher than 100v (nominal) due to the dangers that come with it. Obviously any voltage can be dangerous but 100 becomes deadly quick. I was planning to do an electric motorcycle build and go with the 96v route but I would need something like 1200 phase amps to get the power I want. Torque is the whole benefit of electric in my opinion anyways. I guess it's only a matter of time before PEV motor manufacturers start to make super low KV motors to take advantage of the high voltage controllers coming to the market.
Motors that operate at 131v/32S are already plentiful. 400v motors are pretty common too. There's plenty of options of motors designed with low enough KV's and tested for 400v applications. Never mind all the used motor market from electric or hybrid cars.
I agree that low voltages are nice; but you dont really have much leeway in Kv/Kt actually; in practice there is a pretty hard floor due to the realities of practical motor construction. Im working right now on a design wound with a split pair of 2x3 phases, with two independent controllers on the same motor; effectively putting the controllers in series and getting double the effective voltage to tame your R and L. This is pretty common in electric aircraft for redundancy, but it also makes for very peppy light EVs while staying under the 75V legal limit for low voltage devices.
@@eelcohoogendoorn8044 Low voltage means high current. Is rather have higher voltage. I run a 6 phase motor on dual controllers myself. They aren't in series. This is effectively 2 motors wound on the same stator in parallel. Where are you located that you can't exceed 75v? This isn't the case in the USA. I can build at whatever voltage I want here.
@@de-bodgery you can exceed 75v anywhere; but in the EU its no longer a low voltage device and different regulations apply. Regulations aside, im also happier with the lower voltage myself, as far as batteries I have to plug and unplug, let along actual work on something. Since phase currents are independent from all this; the only place the extra current might bother you is in the bus. It depends on the application I suppose but adding an extra mm2 of bus wire usually isnt the issue
@@de-bodgery The two motors wound on the same stator sounds like exactly the thing im talking about btw. Im calling that 'in series' since you have effectively half the L and R to push against per controller while the same phase current limits apply.
I have 2 of these I can't get to work. Is it possible I bricked them with the vesc tool by allow them to try a firmware update? It's been months since I picked these up but when I did I was just clicking buttons. I have the tools to reprogram the processor but I don't know where to find the image.
Yes it's possible, but unlikely, VESC is very resilient against bricking as a general statement. It has 2 storage locations in flash for firmware. It loads from one and then installs new firmware in the other. If something goes wrong, the CPU can still boot from the other storage location. This is never 100% sure, but it does add a layer of redundancy that most other firmware operations in other controllers lack! If the new firmware loads and boots successfully, only then does the backup older copy get over written with the new firmware. Having said that, you still have USB, UART and SWDIO for reflashing and recovery if they are bricked. Id try USB first...see if the PC based app can connect to them and then use VESCtool to update the firmware according to the video that Flipsky has on their channel. I've used that exact procedure many times on their controllers without issues. IF you need the firmware to use with an STlink and SWDIO, contact Flipsky to get that.
Well the primary symptom I’ve identified is no USB. I’ve powered it with a lab supply and I get a blue light but nothing enumerates when I plug in USB. I’ve tried multiple boards, multiple cables and multiple computers. I hooked everything up and applied a signal through the servo input just to see if it would respond but the unit isn’t even drawing enough current to boot the processor.
@@lusher00 Ping me on facebook. USB applies 5v to the controller and then the 3.3v supply ought to power up to and that's what powers the CPU. At least LED's ought to light up! Seems you have something else going on possibly and not bricked CPU's from a bad flash.
@@de-bodgery I’m not sure how to ping you on Facebook. I’ll have to investigate. I don’t believe Vbus is connected on the supplied USB cables. They are only 3 wire so I would assume D+/- & ground. I have LED’s on when I supply power but I don’t know what a solid blue LED means.
Yeah...a little over a month since my Spintend video...definitely slowed down video content with everything stolen! Lots of things I can't do anymore with no cameras, no electronics equipment, no EV parts, no machines to the tune of about $70,000!!! Watt Wheels claims "I ruined his business", when thanks to all my equipment he stole, if anything, I made his capabilities 10X better!!! In between time, I've got nothing but my laptop!!!
@@lezbriddon So i must have been a royal shit in a past life if the "universe finds balance"! In this life, the "universe" for the second time has laid a world of hurt on me!
To whom or what are you referring? I can tell you I'm no scammer. I firmly believe that if its wrong for it to happen to me, it's wrong for me to do it to others! I'm far from perfect at being non-hypocritical, but Its what I try to do with everything! As a result, I'm a strong supporter of Ukraine. I know I wouldn't want to be invaded, destroyed, robbed and killed...so it's equally WRONG to happen to them! If trying to be honest and truthful and true to my word and consistent in how I treat others vs myself makes me a scammer...if that's your implication...then so be it. I have to say, that's got to be the most bizarre definition of a "scammer" I've ever seen! You might want to look up what that word means.
@@de-bodgery I’m not sure why you would bring a political argument to this at all, particularly because the reality of your example is much more complicated than a 2d version you have laid out. Anyhow, I like your channel and find your efforts both useful and informative in other regards. Take care!
The only 2 options they have (as of the time of this writing) are the ECP4"lite" and something they're hyping up as "The One", which they claim is a combination of the "might of the Electro & Company EC4P V3 Motor with the strength and Braun of the EC5P Motor". I wonder how the quality of those stacks up and if it doesn't, how can they keep getting away with this? Other than ignorance, of course.
I would like to measure the capacities and internal resistances of approximately 220 18650 lion batteries by first charging and then discharging them. Is there a charger you can recommend? I would appreciate it if you could answer me.
@@niklaspalmlof2005 You have to wind up the spring a full turn to get the tension it has from the factory. I think if you don't wind it all, you'll have that softer pull you want.
