LANDCRUISER Dream Tourer. Fitting the AIR COMPRESSOR. Where, and to what battery? 

I have the same compressor.I added 1 air tank.Before I added the air tank I timed how long it took to inflate a tyre.I then timed it with the air tank in play.It did not make one bit of difference.But using the air blower gun it made a big difference.The tank helps a lot to run air tools and blower guns but doesnt help at all as far as shortening tyre inflation time.

"You don't need two tanks. Who cares? ........ Okay I'm gonna fit two tanks." lol

Use a simple buzzer. that way you wont forget that your switch is on. and the noise of the buzzer is not a problem because you will be using your compressor, so it's a win win. Great stuff as usual.

The replies to comments on people who don't understand it's not their car are brilliant. Love the build.

Advantage of two tanks is that the first tank will be your "wet" tank, still storing pressure, but also separating most of the moisture from your second tank, leaving the air you're using considerably drier

Just an idea plumb the air intake of the compressor into the air box. It keeps the intake clean and the compressor close to the battery

Great choice Andrew ! My dual ARB compressor is fitted under my rear seat in my F250, It’s just nice to keep the unit out of the elements, water, dust etc. I also have it pumping into a larger style 9L tank with dual ports on each side of the vehicle for quick access. It’s fantastic pumping up 37” tyres with a larger tank. Personally I wouldn’t run my compressor off my lithium system, I just run my vehicle while pumping up. I put compressors in the same category as winches, high current I like to run off start batteries.

Thank you for letting us in on your thought process along the way.

Andrew, seeing that you installing a air reservoir, I tried to work our how to be to pump 4 tyres from say 1 bar to 2 bar? Well here it is. 1. It's a function of pressure x volume. Base all my calculations on 'free air'. This means the volume (free air) at atmospheric pressure (Patm). 2. At sea level, Patm = 1Bar 3. If your wheel's volume is 20L and pressure is 2Bar: 20x2 = 40L free air. 4. Remember if your wheel is already at 1Bar, you must have 1 + 1 = 2 Bar x full of 20L free air to take up to 2Bar. To pump your wheels from 2Bar to 3Bar you need 2 + 1 = 3 x 80L free air = 240L !. So for every 1Bar you want to increase the pressure in your 4 wheels, you must first overcome the current pressure in the wheels before any air will enter. 5. If you have a 5L tank, it must be pumped 80/5 = 16Bar + 1Bar. 6. Example: Sodastream cylinder is approximately 250ml (0.25L). So at 200Bar he will give you 0.25x200 = 50L of free air. Just enough to increase the pressure of two wheels with one Bar from 0Bar. 7. You also need to consider the size of the tank at the ultimate volume of free air because you will eventually have equilibrium pressure between the wheels and the tank. 7. How many times do you want the air reserve in your tank to be able to pump the wheels? 8. If your tank can take 6Bar pressure: 6-1 = 5. So you only have 5Bar to work with. 80L free air / 5Bar = 16L. Your cylinder will need to be about 20L. Is it worth it? Or do one rather invest in a bigger compressor....? Just a thought

Andrew, if you put in a changeover switch to power your compressor, interlock the switch (and therefore your changeover relay) to the parking brake. That way you will never forget to change back because you (should) take off your parking brake to drive. Use a relay latch arrangement to stop it coming back on when you apply the parking brake again. (I can send a drawing) I’m an auto electrician and design electrical systems for trucks, ambulances and the like. You make some excellent points that are valid and a good way of thinking. There is no “answer” it’s just what works on your vehicle, use case and system limits. Great videos!

Great video as usual Andrew. Don’t want to be a stickler but I’m not sure “80 amps per hour” is a unit that should be used. For current draw (at any point in time) is just current hence 80 amps and if calculated as energy consumed over a period of time then it would be “AH or amp hours, NOT amps per hour. Just a tip is all

So we’ve worked out that the compressor is in the wrong spot hooked up to the wrong battery. Excellent! Now just to change it all over to something/somewhere else. Great vid Andrew and very entertaining. 😉🍺

Just start your engine Andrew and then pump up the tyres, you could damage your batteries if you don't have the engine running with that current draw.

I think you could have a longer air tank in the same spot as the small one is mounted. enough air to run air tools would be pretty great

Good to see you moving g forward and keeping us entertained...good info

I love it!! I can fit two tanks..... No, I don't need two tanks.......I'm going to fit two tanks!!!! Haha, awesome video!! Really enjoy your content Andrew

I have almost the exact same setup in my 79 (minus the tank) - works very well

I look forward to seeing your solution!

I mounted my twin ARB under drivers seat with no air tank and running off the starter battery. Works perfectly.

Thanks. I almost mounted my arb duel compress or to my aux battery! Because I have it in my camper shell of my Toyota Tundra. Running long wires to the compressor will cause too much of a drop so as you explained mounting it in the engine bay high up and running air lines to the tank and go from there is best. What size tire is best for a full size truck for what we do? My tundra can fit 33-37s on my old man emu lift with the arb bumper.

Good point. Never thought about it! Now, a system that you just connect your two front wheels and after your back wheels at the same time, would be lovely as well!!

I’m running an ARB single compressor and it’s been great. I was thinking about installing a tank to help with airing up. But from what I can see from my research, there is very little benefit to installing a tank. Any thoughts on whether that’s true or not?

laugh so hard watching you get excited about truck parts lmao bless your honest ways

Excellent video, very informative. Thanks for the effort!

Question with all the ARB product you are using are you going to run the same ARB OME suspension as they last build?

Can we use this compressor to also work for air suspension? Thanks for the video (-:

Thinking process and using the comments advice gives you a great way before settling on your final installation. Take your time but be sure saves you from I should or could have... I will go for close to the battery, comp and tank below if you have space with a out side hose plug. No rooting for air and cable lines or wear and tear etc. To keep it simple is the best. Thanks for sharing!

I have my single ARB compressor mounted under the front passenger seat, SWB. Used for lockers and tyres. The switch is on the dash.

I have my second battery at the front. Then one positive cable from each battery running inside the cab to a master battery selector switch. The output from that switch goes to the accessories in the back. When I run the compressor, I set it to both batteries and run the engine at high idle...with a stick or a rock 👌

80 amps is current, not 80 amp.hour. Then 80amps times 12v is near 1,000 watts power. Cheers.

I love watching your videos, Andrew, I think you maybe get just a little bit more fun designing and building than using the vehicles afterwards. The thought that goes into every aspect of the construction is something to watch. I don't know how many vehicles you've bought, modified, trialled and inspected but it looks as though you treat it as an opportunity to see if you can make or do anything better than the last time. No matter how many times you may have done that thing before. I just love the attention to detail. You seem like a perfectionist but one that knows perfection cannot be obtained but you'll do whatever you can to reach it. Please, don't stop.

We are just waiting on delivery of the ARB single high ouput compressor. We decided to also get the ARB LINX system and the compressor kit that allows you to set a specific pressure and then press one button on the LINX and it will automatically deflate/inflate accordingly. You can also turn on the compressor from any position as you can take the LINX out of its mount on the dash with you. The other reason for the LINX system, is that we want to wire 3 work lights and the front spot lights to it, that way while we are in the back of the camper body, and we hear anything outside that we want to illuminate, or scare off, we simply bring the LINX unit into the back with us as we camp for the night and can turn all of the lights on/off remotely. We think it will be a good security feature, never mind the bonus of being able to turn the lights on when wandering around easily from your pocket as the LINX control unit is very similar to a mobile phone. It goes without saying it will be powering our rear air locker too. All that gear will be leaving ARB Europe in April, we will post up a video when we get a chance.

Any videos on your tires and why you chose this particular set?

What do you think about the Viair air compressor and tanks?

Great video. Thank you for sharing.

You do a nice job Andrew, however one massive flaw. The air outlet at the back will fill with dust and mud and be impossible to use. Put the outlet inside a side box. Made the exact same mistake with the same arb fittings.

Bolt the compressor under your seat like most do with a single compressor with air lockers , I have. Are you fitting lockers ?

I always picture a young David Attenborough discussing his 4x4 adventure anxieties when i watch this fella with my eyes closed.

Andrew, You're over thinking it mate. Take the power for the compressor off the same cable that feeds the DC-DC... Simple. While the compressor is running, the DC-DC might be getting a little less power, but it's only for a few minutes, and the alternator will have the voltage at 13.x volts. Obviously fusing it directly off the big cable (which itself is fused at the battery). Thin trigger wire to the switch, and you're done. No reason you can't wire a second switch in the back.

Good morning Andrew I am truly enjoying the Variety Videos that You have Invested such enormous effort( & ofcourse Financial) to create - Emmense Gratitude. On this Specific Video. I was glued. The privilege of being audience to the Trail of thought, simply priceless. I am looking forward to the Solution that You will settle on. Again. Emmense gratitude. Keep Up these Video please.

As I’m driving a vehicle around half the size of yours - or less, I appreciate your thoughts, ideas, and solutions.

The earlier Troopy was a near perfect touring truck; I really admired it. You obviously know all it's good points and shortcomings.This new vehicle is an upgrade, a blank canvas with loads more space to paint on and I hope you are only adding, removing or changing fundamental stuff based on a need learnt from the Troopy experience. For the average Dave money is a major consideration and the search for the "perfect" truck is very elusive... a compromise of needs and wants as you so often state. Looking forward to the finished truck.

11:44 when you remember what passion for a car really feels like.. good ol troop carrier.

for that warning buzzer you were talking about you may be able to use the handbrake warning light on the dash as some form of signal wire or have it connected to a relay so your compressor changeover switch only works while the handbrake is up

I like the way how are you demonstrate things 👌 , good luck

Running a single arb and no tank but having 8 tyres to do I wish I bought a double Great stuff mate

Is it a viable option to put the compressor between the back of the cabin and the tray, or is tha also too dusty and grimy,

Yep like other people have said, "keep it simple" wire it directly from your starting battery! Location at the back of the vehicle is perfectly fine and voltage drop won't be a problem if you size the cable correctly.

Great video, appreciate !

Andrew, where did you get the Toyota compatible ARB compressor switch?

Good stuff Andrew would really like to see how you put the air pipes between the body and the back tray where tanks are what type of grommets how big your whole are

Another great video Sir

Great video.

for any ARB compressor is necessary to install air reservoir tank?

I just recently moved the compressor from the engine bay to a rear storage system I built. The compressor was too close to the exhaust (lack of room) and had too much dust in the engine bay. Next for me is installing the aux battery, which will be really close to the compressor, but I feel like I still need to wire it to the starter battery. I dont have the dual, so I only max out at 40amps. I think just wiring it directly to the starter with a large gauge cable.

Thinking out loud 😁😁😁 Does totally opposite to what he thinks at times ....confusing at times ....but very informative....loved it

Hi Andrew, I would place a large solenoid on the wire that feeds from the main battery to the rear panel and have it wired to the compressor switch, once you turn on the compressor, it will connect to both batteries.

Hi Andrew - having a bit of a binge watch at the moment. However did you consider gre Clearview Spider when considering inflating / deflating systems. My knees are starting to kick against kneeling next to my wheels while transitioning and am considering g the spider. Did you look at it? Regards

4:45 - 5:25 the thinking process 😂

Excellent demonstration of the thought-process that should go into planning this stuff. Maybe worth pointing out that another consideration would be the presence of air-locking diff's. Not much point in fitting the compressor's switch somewhere obscure and then realising it means you can't start the compressor when you need it to engage your diff' locks. On a similar note, I was wondering how you wired up your electrical water heater? A 300w heating element draws >20Amps. You probably don't want it running directly off your starter battery or you'll end-up with a flat battery after a few days camping but a 20A draw on an AGM battery is kind of high (IMO). Ideally, the heater will be used when the vehicle is running (which'd mean it'll be okay to run off the starter battery) but there'll also be times when it's used while camping too. I was actually wondering about fitting a switch to allow the heater to draw power from either battery but, as Andrew notes, you then really need some kind of glaringly-obvious indicator to ensure you don't leave the switch in the wrong position and accidentally suck a heap of juice out of the "wrong" battery. Honestly, I wonder if the simplest solution might be to wire the water-heater up to the starter battery and then just put a sticker next to the water-heater switch saying something like "Use only with engine running" Decisions, decisions!

I have the cables for the air connected just before the dc/dc- charger. 50 mm2 from the start battery to the back tray-dmax. So while enginge running and compressor running..well, dc/dc doesnt get much but it works.

I would love to hear your thoughts on a power tank, although I assume you wouldn't be interested because it could run out over the course of a long overland tour?

Why not put it under the tray but have it pull air from inside the cabin?

Great video 👍👍

Love your videos as always and love to watch your builds. Its a bit like legos for me: the build is almost more exiting than playing with it. I do have a few questions: What are the tanks for? I dont have a lot of experience with this but to me it seems the compressor would have to fill the volume of the tire as well as the volume of the tank and wouldn't that take longer to air up? Would it be possible to do a air up test with compressor alone vs tank? I dont know the arb compressors but I see a inlet that looks like it has a filter screwed on, would it be possible to mount the compressor itself in an airtight place like the boxes on your tray but extend the inlet into the cab? Would love to upgrade to ARB Twin one day. Airing up 35" Tires is a lunch break on its own.

XO also played with where to put compressor on Gladiator. Aftermarket in 90's put compressors in rear of GM F bodies like Pontiac Trans Am.

You know how some people think twin stack exhausts on something that isn't an American truck is a good idea? Twin air tanks is the next must have thanks to you Andrew. 😜

I was once of the opinion that the ARB twin compressor was overkill. But after experiencing many failures of one side of mine in remote locations that has resulted in ARB rebuilding it no less than four times, I now believe it's a necessary redundancy.

It sounds and now looks like it was pissing down rain how nice

Hey mate, our work cruisers have them fitted to the engine air intake. No issues

With regard to the location of the compressor, I am using Viair compressor that comes with a tank. The compressor suction inlet can be connected to a hose and filter that can be routed to the inside of the car. So you can easily install the compressor in the engine bay and not worry about sucking dust or hot air. Try to configure your ARB that way … It may work

If you're worried about dirt can't you plumb it into the engine air intake?

You've already got a compressor tank Your tray roll bar !. Probably hold 20 litres or more. Get someone to build it for materials only and let them have the idea to develop for general manufacture and sale. No added weight.

hey Andrew , you can actually get an extension kit for the fiters of the arb compressor actually a snorkel original from arb

It might be possible to use a push button switch with a latching circuit. wire the latching circuit to the hand break so when the hand break is released the system de activates and feeds power to the other systems at the back. I've seen magnetic contactors used on many of the trucks at work. Hope this helps

Do you have an indeflate? My OCD love that my pairs of tyres show exactly the same on my TPM.

Andrew, I have a portable battery that can be recharged at any powerpoint in any motel room. My compressor runs off that battery. I have 4 tyres and I fill my tyres one at a time. Am I doing something wrong?

Hi Andrew , I am surprised you haven’t considered the ARB Linx ?

Wouldn't it be a problem having the compressor in the cab with a tank as part of the system? As soon as you add a tank into the system that compressor will be running to refill the tank long after you are done and are now potentially back in the cab driving off with all that racket while it refills? I think I follow you on the switching system, but now you'll either have to wait until the tank refills if thats a priority before switching it off or switching it off so you are charging your batteries while you drive leaving your compressor tank empty. Maybe i'm missing something here?

Just extend and run the air comps air filter into the cab.

Good idea but I think just running a intake line into the cab and having the compressor in the tool box will fix noise problems and putting bushes in the bolts to the tray above the toolbox can reduce vibration. I am very impressed by the battery bank storage

You can use a hose with a filter on the end for your air compressor intake. Route that inside the vehicle and keep the compressor outside. That's how mine is set up, I'm surprised the Arb doesn't come with such a thing.

Will the compressor tank need a protective bash plate ??

If you have two tanks, would it be worthwhile to have a hose and connections to bypass one tank, or both, in case one or both get punctured? I'm sure that's very unlikely, but I'm curious what your experience tells you?

I do agree I have 2 boss px07 and I now use I carry a rattle gun but I do change my tyre pressure regularly on different grounds is the reason why I got the bigger compressors and never looked back

In reality having an air tank or multiple air tanks would not necessarily pump your tyre up faster because first you must fill the tank up. You are still reliant on how much air the compressor put out . All an air tank does is give you greater volume ideal for blowing / tools etc .

So many experts in the comments. Lets wait and see. I'm sure Andrew will develop a system that we would all love to have in our rigs.

I wonder how much performance difference there is between have one ARB air tank (4L) and 2 (8L) when you have to pump up from say 18psi to 36psi? I don't think it would be all that much,

TWO TANKS!!

What is the rush to pump up the tyres?? and how many minutes do you run your compressor

Nice distraction from cabin fever! :-) Cheers

I found out (a long time ago) with aa building site compressor that it doesn't matter how much air hose you have as long as the compressor is close to it's power source. This is because, as you stated, it there is current drop if the power source is too far away but the hose does not lose pressure despite having a longer length. Is it safe to assume that the same rules apply here? Can you accoustically insulate the compressor if it is in the cockpit of the 4by to reduce the noise effect on passengers? Lastly, when I bought my 100 Series, the compressor was already fitted but, in a position where I often bump it with my knee when exiting the vehicle so, that might be an inportant consideration for you too, Andrew.

I always keep my car running when pumping up my tyres. No point having hard tyres and a flat battery

Why not in the engine bay with the compressor airtake connected to the engine air intake after the air filter? With a one way valve? Won't be fighting the engine for air if the engine is at idle.

Been following the channel when I can. Just seen your thoughts re compressor and battery choice. I am no expert but what is the current draw you said 80amps earlier on and then towards end you said 40amps. I haven’t looked at the Lithium spec of your batteries but better check what Cell Rating / Energy Density I am guessing given the price they might be 0.5C so if 80 amps continuous draw that’s too high for that battery. You did say under bonnet close to starter battery . Yep good idea and can I suggest you run an additional secondary cylinder style air filter to the compressor air intakes and mount it high up. I have seen some run it to air box filter but risky better to do seperate filter. Anyway will watch to see what you do, as we never stop learning. Cheers MATG

Your camera 📸 it’s very good

8L still seems like a small tank capacity for a >1 horsepower air compressor. I took one of those dual compressors on a job that required a lot of air and they overheat until the (quite expensive) fuse pops after running continuously for around 15min or stop starting for about 35 min if it is able to pump a tank up to a reasonable pressure and therefore shut down for longer say run 5min stop 5min it never overheated. If you are taking it to a sensible pressure that beast can fill a 4L tank in no time. You are also right about being worried about voltage drop we had to run it on 1000A jumper leads or the voltage drop over 5m was too much and it ran crap and overheated (and melted the 400 amp rated cables we tried first.)

Andrew, you are using ARB gear, so you should try to use ARB LINX instead of filling your cockpit with massive number of switches. I fitted ARB Linx to my Defender and connected with ARB double compressor and ARB front and rear difflocks. It works perfect together and I don t have many additional switches. You really should try it as you use also fridges and additional batteries.

The very first item in the ARB 4L Air tank installation guide says to mount the tank so the outlet is closest to the ground to avoid moisture accumulation. You have plenty of room behind that tool box to mount the cylinder vertical. Not doing so, moisture will collect in the tank and reduce the capacity to 50% over time. Love your videos Andrew and i see you driving around now and then. Keep up the good work!