I’m really glad that I stumbled across your series of machining video’s. You did a great job re-engineering the poor design of your lathes carriage stop. I’m gonna take a peek at mine and make some changes. You got another subscriber with me. Thanks
That Carriage Lock turned out nice. Great Job Doc. I don’t know if you’re also a Surgeon, but if you are. It seems like being able to Machine things would be a advantage for you. I always like your Videos. Great Job.👍
Yuchol, Happy New Years, be safe! On my lathe the lock wasn’t working so I added a copper shim up where the block contacts the bottom of the bed rail. Now it works very well.
Yuchol, very nice job. That new clamp looks like what should have come with the machine! I'd get rid of the "ledge" that you left. It's almost certainly going to collect swarf which will then be pulled in between the ways and the clamp surface. A most Happy New Year to you and your family! 새해 복 많이 받으세요
I made a similar lock for my lathe. I used one of the wiper holes to fit a stop to prevent the lock lever going back too far and contacting the tail stock.
Nice work, Yuchol 😊. Love them tap and die holders. Think I'm going to have to upgrade now, those look awesome! 😁 Glad your handle positioning worked out, best of luck to you in 2020 as well 😃! Thanks for the share!
That is a lot neater than my locking knob. IHMO it is a modification well done, especially on lathes that use an allen screw or a square head bolt. The only difference I would have done is instead of welding the lower stud togheter I would have locktited it with bearing mount locktite (green) it would have been just as secure and saved some extra machining
A clean lathe ( after use) is a happy lathe. I can not tolerate dirty machinery or tools, even if i.e. two hours of cleaning upon completion is required to have total chip free and lightly oiled following a project . That means EVERY day after use, no exceptions.
I’m working on my atlas lathe and want to get rid of the loose wrenches on the carriage lock and the tailstock lock. You just showed me the detail I was looking for. 3/8-16 bolt or stud. 1/4 turn from loose to tight. Thanks, John
Yuchol, A neat solution to a common problem. Sorry to be nit picky but I think I would use the term universal joint rather than swivel which is more for fishing also using the die manually to finish your thread won't allow the rod to fully seat, a better method is to use a thin parting or grooving tool to make a relief and then it will pull up to a shoulder with no gap. Great work but your lathe seems almost too clean!
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 well you can come and shoot a video at mine any time (as long as you clean up first! but it has been in 40°c+ on several days and there is fire ravaging the SE of the country but at least 3 hours from here).
Nice job, good video. Now I have yet another project! You may as well cut off the block protruding from the saddle, there is no grip advantage and beside looking unsightly it will collect crap, and we like a tidy lathe, don't we...both. Envious of your chuck. Doing good work.
Well David, I am one of those that clean down and oil my lathe at the end of the day, almost always. Couple of reasons, but one really Big one is it lives 50m from salt water and will rust like a bitch if I don't!
Yuchol, your projects inspire me. I watched this three times to see if you used cast iron for your block. I could not determine what you used. Material softer than your ways should be used when contact of the piece is at issue. Did you consider using a double lead screw or triple lead screw? The handle would of course require only half the arc movement that a single thread would require.
You probably dont care at all but does someone know a way to get back into an instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my account password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Ty Alejandro Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
I like this project. I would want not to pull on the outside under edge of the way. Clearance the clamping finger so it's pulling up further under. A radius or a dowel pin laying in a slot would be killer. I love you eliminated the forces bending the bolt. Very smart. A more course or double start thread would be a great way to limit the arc of the handle. At the expense of losing some tightening force. Meh, probably fine as is.
Very nicely done, however,🤔, I think I would remove the remainder material from the block that extends beyond the carriage because it is only going to catch a lot of crap that you will have to clean off frequently. It will also look a lot cleaner with the excess removed. What a beautiful lathe, will you share with us the brand? I think it would look a lot better sitting in my shop than it does in yours. LOL... Wonderful job, I look forward to all of your video's, thank you for sharing.
Hi Richard, I may end up cutting off the excess, but the length helps with the anti-rotation when I tighten/loosen. The lathe is Jet GH-1340W. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏻
I have found that most times when cutting tapers i get a better finish cutting from the thickest to thinnest, in your case left to right rather than right to left, I thinks its something to do with the angle the tool tip is to the work an not necessarily the shape of the tool. On your straight line cut it looked like a chrome finish. I need to do something like this as at the moment i have a sawn off alen key to fit under my dro scale and it either keeps falling off or interfears with the tailstock. I was thinking i might have enough room to do it upside down so the clamp handle is on the underside and using one of those movable handle things like i have on my mill table stops.
Nice job! A small suggestion, if I may. Use a ball peen hammer if you have one rather than a claw hammer for hitting punches and chisels. Claw hammers are (supposed to) have hardened faces, and are intended to hit soft iron and wood. You can spall off slivers from the face of the hammer hitting hard stuff. Ask me how I know. They can burrow into flesh real easily when they come off at speed.
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 I think those Lenze VFD's are limited to 10khz anyway, so it probably wouldn't help (I can still hear 10k). I see in their user manual that they want you to derate the drive at higher carrier frequencies as well. I use Teco and Fuji, and I don't recall that being mentioned. They're newer designs, and are probably using faster IGBT's.
could you, for example, add the same clamp to the back rail, and a 'chain drive' from front to back, to allow for more clamping force, and symmetrical across the cross slide... just an idea?
Hey Yuchol. Just a tip from me. When roughing like at 3:00, instead of taking small depth bites at full width, take small stepover bites at full or 1/2 depth. Your endmills will last a lot longer.
Good video !!1 Thank you very much !!! I am very interested in the tip support, retractable, mounted in the milling spindle that you use to hold the tap, is it self-made? Or can you advise me where to buy it? Thanks in advance, Alberto from Italy !!
My .02c regarding the short taper surface finish - your lead angle and relief on the insert were also WAYYY off compared to what you used on the body and that lead angle and relief will have a lot to do with cut quality and finish. I've found that making sure the angle is appropriate to the material AND specific insert type makes all the difference in the world. Edit: missed the 'cheap insert' comment, but the following can still apply. Also, is it a generic insert? Or one with a coating and geometry for the metal your cutting? I've completely gotten away from generic/multipurpose inserts for all operations besides heavy roughing.
My carriage lock doesn't bend, but it doesn't get really tight either. When I mod'ed mine I wondered if they make them weak on purpose so that if you have it on and engage the longitudinal power feed you don't break something.Your handle really turned out great.
The lathes at my school had role pins, and at least once a semester someone would hit the power feed with the carriage locked and the pin would shear, the manufacturer put them in a spot it took 2 people about 25 minutes to get the new role pin in.
Nice job Yuchol . perhaps a 45 on the top of the part thank sticks out from the apron for swarf to fall off , not that there is swarf on your lathe often , Happy New Year , Cheers Ade.
So would you recommand buying a « PRECISION Matthews lathe? I saw you rebuilt your gear box because the bearing were’nt good anymore and now the brake on the carriage. When you buy a piece of equipment that expensive, I beleive you wan’t it to work properly.
Drill rod in its annealed state isn't very special. I once made from drill rod a sleeve with a hole on the side to replace the worn-out one on my scissor jack where the handle inserts. The hole quickly became sloppy. I made another but this time hardened and tempered it and it has lasted very well. Important lesson learned!
@@davidwillard7334 It taught me that if carbon steel isn't hardened, it's no better than mild steel, and that if I ever go searching for my heart's desire again, I won't look any further than my own backyard; because if it isn't there, I never really lost it to begin with.
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 rofl! That's too simple! I couldn't tell if the ratcheting part was a separate tool from a regular tap wrench. Thanks so much!
It's nobody's business but your own and how clean you keep your equipment. Clean machinery last longer. Nice machinery. What brand of la tathe are you running? It looks very professional. LjN
I was hoping that I'd get a good understanding of how to fix mine. But it seems like your lathe and mine are slightly different. (Mine is "broken" because some idiot currently responsible for the maintenance thought it was a good idea to pull the bolt out, and the locking plate iteself fell out - where it sits is completely impossible to reach - and yes, the idiot is me! :) )
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 Not your fault. I shouldn't have taken the bolt out in the first place. Good job on the lock design. I did something similar to make a holder for a dial indicator on attaching to the ways.
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 I'm installing one now. Only subtle things have changed in all these years. The castings have never changed. I wanna see how you did the cross slide. My apron lock is in a real shitty location. This is no fun.
Yuchol Wait ! Stop the show ! Tell me about that awesome Tap Wrench you are using . That is a got to have ! Okay Action start the camera rolling again.
Nice job, Yuchol. I agree with the commenter who suggested cutting the block back flush. And--if wear changes the lock position, check out these indexing handles.. www.mcmaster.com/6271k71 Happy New Year to you and yours.
Tell me about that die holder at 12:53! Did you make it? I saw a video where a guy made one ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bq2NtnbViF4.html -I hope it has a tang that will lock it from turning in the taper.- No I guess it just floats. Can it hold taps, too? I had to tap a bunch of parts yesterday and held an 18mm tap in the drill chuck and let it drag the tailstock. It worked well until the tap became dull and the tailstock wanted to rock and the parts would slip in the chuck.
It just rides on the rod that goes into the tailstock. Your hand acts as a clutch. Just let go. It won’t hold a tap, you use the drill chuck and tailstock for that
You hobby engineers always insist on using inserted TC tooling for everything, especially on the lathe. Do yourself a favour and learn to grind and use HSS, and you'll see the benefits, if you give yourself a chance.
I hand grind and use HSS on the lathe and the mill often. You have to keep in min that carbide insets make a lot of sense for hobbyists as well. I purchased my inserts op for $1 to $2 each and they have multiple cutting edges. Sometimes higher SFPM and federate afforded is worth the price. It’s not for everybody, but then you don’t have to do what everybody else does. 👍🏼
