Yuchol - You did a really great job on this video. You make all of the steps you take on a project very clear. Thank you! The date I am leaving this comment is June 6, 2023. Harbor Freight's price on the Pittsburgh Pro T-Handle Tap Ratcheting Wrench (SKU# 97633) is now $19.99. That cost is up just over 5% in the 3 years since you made your post.
It is good that some people will give credit where credit is due this guy did just that. I have seen so many others copping other projects and making out that they were the first to make something without giving credit to the other people.
Nice work. Sometimes we have to force ourselves not to settle for half-ass. Glad you made the second part with tighter tolerances. I also appreciate the tip on the Kodiak Cutting Tools.
Great Job Yuchol. Adding the last step of surface grinding really makes the difference in appearance. If i ever find a good deal close to home on a small surface grinder i'm gona try to get one. I also have one of the tap wrenches that you have thanks to you i went straight to Harbor freight that day and bought it. I have several things i have bought at H/F that i really do like. BTW Amazon prime is well worth my annual fee. I use them a lot. I tallied up the freight I have saved over the last 13 months minus the annual fee and I have saved over $1100 in freight alone. Plus i love the 2 day shipping. My dogs greet the UPS driver instead of barking at him now. LoL
I have to say I’m impressed! Thanks to Everett’s Workshop I came across your Channel. I have been looking for a good machine work shop. I have to say I have some catching up to do with your videos.
Gday, that’s a brilliant idea for a quill lock, the finish surface off the surface grinder is beautiful, wish I had one in my shop, maybe one day hopefully if I sweet talk the wife long enough, the squeaky wheel always gets oiled😜, awesome video as always mate thank you and I’ll be sure to check out Dudley tool right for the drawing, Cheers Matty
Hola meu amigo excelente trabalho e projeto perfeito!Se o amigo permitir talvez eu use este modelo de aperto no meu torno caseiro (cabeçote móvel )Obrigado por compartilhar!João Carlos - Brasil!
Considering that lathe would have been designed and built as at least a small light industrial machine it's surprising how badly they cut corners on that tail stock quill locking method Yuchol. Fwiw and it's surprising just how many don't know it, but keyless chucks AREN'T designed nor made for use with those reduced shank S&D type drills. And for good reason, it's because of there self tightening feature. As the drill diameter increases the torque on the shank within the chuck jaws obviously increases as well. When the shank tries to spin the internals are designed tighten up even more to prevent that.There's a few threads about what can happen on the PM General forum. The chuck will start to self tighten to where the internals begin deforming, and with a bad drill catch breaking through the material your drilling it can be severe enough to permanently lock it up and destroy the chucks internals. If your ever struggling to loosen any well made keyless by hand it's a sure sign your over stressing the chuck past it's design limits. Used within there limits a good keyless should never need anything more than hand torque to tighten or loosen them. So those reduced shank drills really need to be used with a keyed chuck or a collet.The same holds true when power tapping with them, I limit mine to about 3/8ths tap size as a maximum. Your drill chuck looks very much like the 3 integral shank keyless I bought from Glacern. I've had real good luck with mine and they compare quite well with the Albrecht I have for runout.
No it doesn’t. I installed all of the tailstock tooling and measured when they were ejected when I retracted the quill prior to the project. With the plate being 1/2” thick, and I machined off about 1/8” of the tailstock, I still have about 3/8” room to play with. Of course your mileage may vary depending on the lathe. Thanks Chuck!
Nice modification! Often the top of the tailstock casting is convex so your top clamp (while milling) would have a tendency to wander (as it did). Some wood packing material may help next time. I have sometimes thought about milling-flat the top of the tailstock casting for mounting a digital caliper, depth measuring attachment. Flat, and parallel to the spindle. Another project when time is found.
I'd be interested to know if the quill moves side to side or up and down when the clamp is applied? I have a similar lathe and with the original clamp the tail stock alignment is changed when the clamp is applied.
I'm a little late to the party here. But would it have been possible to notch the corners with the pinch bolt so you wouldn't need as long a tap or clearance drill? Considering the function of this add on, I don't think it would affect the clamping force. Came out nice though.
Well done Yuchol. My tailstock just might be getting one of these too, even though it locks up fine with the lever it could be more secure with this method. What kind of surface grinder do you have there? Looks nice.
Hi there , I've been waqtching a bunch of your videos & wondering can you tell me about the sheet metal part you have on the top of the saddle on he chuck side ? thanks animal
I had to go check my tool box to make sure that ratchet tap driver got the same one up here in princess auto lol As far as end mill in drill chuck i even use mine in drill chuck on lathe and even my kitten 🙀🙀🙀😹😹couldn't bear to watch ha ha
Im a beginner lathe operator and I would like to fix the tailstock bottom is wore so I welded the corner to bring it back true. Any suggestions on how I can make it better?
not bad, my only issue with the new lock design is it does not bind the quill to the bore. in other words push any bore to quill clearance to one side an lock the quill rigid from up an down an side to side movement. ofcource the tool end of the quill is locked but the handle end can wobble around inside the bore. you may get tapers and off center from a center hole running work with tailstock support or between centers. the original design was awfull as you said. but wen it worked it did lock the assemble to itself. just a thought to think about.
it would have never worked properly. The cam lever action has such small operating radius, it wouldn't have allowed me to apply just the amount of force needed. This is a much better design. Thanks.
You really need to learn how to use the fine Kurt vise you have. How do you justify a 0.0005 fit with the quill and then turn around and use a hand drill to mount the clamp bracket?
Too late now, but wouldn't it have been relatively easy to make a new cylinder and key out of tool steel, in other words re-make the original pieces / design so that it would function correctly? The plate seems to work well, but it looks like it costs you 3/4 inch of quill travel.
That type of lock is better than the cam style because it grips better and holds the barrel centered. The Chicago Lathe combo machine has a rather elegant version of this using a round split collar- easy to make with a readily available off the shelf item. They also have used the same concept to make the tailstock telescoping, allowing 10" of travel. www.chicagolathe.com
Watching this made me pull my hair out you are working on a lathe and have a mill why didn't you just make a new pin for the original lock instead of hacking up your lathe?
I have the same problem; plus the other lever for locking the tailstock is not positive either. So it moves no matter how tight I make it. Guess I am going to have to fix both of these maladies. Why do machine builders always leave us with these aggravations? Huh?
Between this and the carriage lock I'd say that lathe isn't worth buying. I have an inexpensive Grizzly gearhead about that size, and everything works as it should right out of the box
I have to disagree with your criticisms of the mechanism. It's not fabulous, but it's perfectly acceptable for its' purpose. Have you actually had any issues with the tailstock backing off? You have to remember that the screw on the handwheel is a force multiplier: just because you can move the quill with that doesn't mean that's going to happen to the lathe. I have almost the same lathe (a GH1336) and I haven't experienced any such issues. Stefan's mod is absolutely an improvement, but calling it a "poor design" is unfair to the manufacturer in this case. Otherwise, a good video: I'm not trying to flame you, I just think you're being a bit over-critical.
Yeah, my quill wouldn’t stay out during use. I’ve had multiple lathes before this one, all cheaper, and none of them had this issue. By “poor design”, I was referring to the use spot welding to adjust the action. It works well now and I am happy with the result. Thanks
@@woodscreekworkshop9939 Fair enough then - if that was the issue, good fix. I'll pull mine apart and see what's in there. I haven't as I've not had any issues.
