Improving the carriage lock of the lathe by making a new clamp and adding a low-profile bolt with a handle. I hope you’ll find this video interesting. All the best Jimmy
You did a realy good job on it as usual, You hawe always been a great inspiration to me in life since the first day i discovered Your channel, and You where always so kind to the audience. I realy want to send You a big warm hug!
Thank you so much my friend! I really appreciate your support all this years and it's always a pleasure to read your comments. The warm hug has been received, many thanks! Take good care Dimitris P.S. When you find time to visit Greece please contact me, I'll be happy to meet you in person!!
@@JimmysCanal Are you going to make more videos this year? I really love watching your videos and they are very inspiring! I especially love your tool making projects. I recommend this channel to all my friends, especially they claim they can't build what they want because they don't have the right tools. They come back and tell me how empowered they feel after seeing what you can do with just a rasp and a jeweler's file.
Hello Bob, Of course I'll make videos; at the moment I'm working on fitting a QCTP to the new lathe, so there will be a video about it. Thank you for introducing my channel to your friends, I'm honored! Thanks again. All the best Jimmy
Hello Paul, Thank you very much for your comment! I'm very happy with this upgrade; its really easy and of course a lot more faster than an Allen key. Take care too Dimitris
Yep, there are times when you really must lock 🔐 down the carriage. It looks very good! And I bet your happy 😊 once you got it working properly. I recently ordered a 11" x 30" Lathe. I have a mini vertical mill. Again, nice work 👍.
Thank you very much for the comment Keith, I really appreciate it! Yeah and when you lock the carriage must be fast and properly tight. I'm really happy with this mod! You must be very happy with the new toy thats coming, may I ask what lathe you have ordered? Thanks again! Regards from Greece Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal First Jimmy, I'm located in USA, MICHIGAN. The company is called Matthew's Precision and the manufacturer follows the Precision company's and specify what components they want. I've worked many years on various products from Europe. Actually I worked mostly with metric.
It crossed my mind that you're in the US, but I wasn't sure. I know Precision Matthews company, they have very good reputation on US market; I think they keep specific standards with all the manufacturers they collaborate. Anyway, I'm sure that you can't wait to receive the lathe; once you receive it and if you want send me a link to see it. All the best Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal if you happen to have a email address, pls forward it to me. It will be much easier to send attachments, photos and text stuff, and certainly I'm enjoying 😀 to exchange our thoughts. Thanks again.....
You can find my email here: ru-vid.comabout or you can message me directly on my facebook page: facebook.com/profile.php?id=100009283024613 I'm enjoying exchanging of thoughts too! Thank you as well. Take care Jimmy
Thank you very much! To be honest I didn't thought at this at all; but as I'm thinking it now it would impossible to put the clamp in the middle because there is no place on the middle of the saddle where I could put the handle. Thanks again for the comment. Cheers Jimmy
Nice job. I'm guessing you placed the bolt in with the washer and got an idea of where the lever would end up and then milled/drilled and tapped for the lever handle, then making a washer to final dimensions to get the lever to lock where you wanted it?
Great project Jimmy and well executed! I have two questions: Do you know a way to accurately indicate the relief groove while holding your part at 45°? And do you have a source of those small acid brushes here in Greece? I buy them from Germany and feel quite dum about that. Take care...
Thank you very much, I appreciate your comment! To answer to your question, the most accurate way to do this is by the use of trigonometry. There is an excellent video about it from Marc L'Ecuyer (AKA THATLAZYMACHINIST): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eafoNs4KFEo.html My way - because I never was good on trigonometry - is to measure the distance between the two opposite corners of a square, then I simply divide it by 2. It doesn't matter if the part is rectangular because you can extend the opposite lines in your drawing from the thinnest corner of your part so as to create a square. I hope that make sense. As for the acid brushes you asked, I don't know any store having these; you can search in art supplies shops. Mine are coming from US. All the best Jimmy
With a bit longer bolt used for that clamping block it's in reality extremely easy to properly "time" or index where the locking handle is positioned in it's locked and unlocked state. Assemble it in it's working position and if the handle needs some extra rotation to properly position it, you can either add a sightly thicker washer or face off a bit from the threaded end face. That moves the entry point of where in it's rotation it engages with the blocks female threads and where it stops when fully tight. Since the thread pitch is already a guaranteed known, it's easy to calculate how much thicker or even thinner the washer needs to be, or how much to trim off the thread end verses the degrees the handle might need to be moved. It's more complicated to explain how to do this than actually do the work. And by the looks of it Jimmy really needs to re-set the handles fully tight position on his 4 position tool post. As is it swings too far towards the chuck with a high likelihood of it hitting a chuck jaw if he's not real careful. To calculate it properly you use the distance the thread advance moves under a full rotation, divide that distance by 360 for the degrees in a full rotation. That then gives you the thread pitch advance per each degree. A simple plastic protractor with degree measurements on it will be accurate enough to estimate how many + or - degrees the thread needs to be rotated to correctly position that handle.
@ Maxim Kachurovskiy Thank you very much, I really appreciate your comment sir! Turning Point explained the whole procedure very thoroughly so I can't add anything else, please forgive me for not answering directly to your question. Regards from Greece Jimmy
@Turning Point I can't think better explanation of the whole procedure, real thorough; Thank you very much!! As for what you said about the quadruple tool post are once again very accurate; the reason you see the handle on different positions (either towards the chuck or to the tailstock) is because I found that the quadruple tool post has not full contact with the topslide allowing really small chips to go inside, so when I need to turn the tool post to set the parting tool or the chamfering bit the chips are moved further inside making the toolpost to lift slightly more. This problem will it come to its end because I'm working on fitting a Multifix QCTP (upcoming project). Thanks again for your comments my friend, are excellent as always!! Take good care Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal No problem and happy to add what little I'd like to think I know. Something you may not be aware of yet. In the U.K. I believe there called Bristol Handles? Here in North America there normally called a ratcheting or adjustable handle. This is just a link to what they look like, www.mcmaster.com/ratchet-handles/ As far as I know there available from machine tool suppliers in most of the world. They can be had with imperial /metric threads and with either a male or female thread. Made from plastic, steel or even stainless. There more than handy on machine tools to allow infinite handle positioning if you ever need something like that and there not all that expensive. That Mutifix will be a good addition to the new lathe. But it sounds like you may need to hand scrape your top slide surface to get a better bearing surface for the tool block.
Your comments are always a pleasure to read my friend, thank you very much! Oh yeah we have ratcheting handles here, are available mostly from tool and machinery parts suppliers; I'm planning to buy 6 pc with M6 male thread to replace the crappy ones on my milling machine. The "Multifix" project is something I've been working slowly for a couple months now; as for hand scraping the top slide you said, I first milled the surface and then hone it carefully using thin oil on fine sandpaper that was attached with adhesive tape on my surface plate (perhaps not the best solution, but it turned out very nice). All the best Dimitris
Why don't you shorten the gib adjustment screws enough to receive the lock nuts to give you more room and the lock socket head cap screw to give you more room. I did mine and it made a 100% more usable.
Hello, I apologize for the late reply. You are right, I didn't thought of it at all. I'll do it because it will give some room for the DRO (future project) as well. Thanks again! All the best Jimmy
I have been eyeing those eccentric cutters for the lathe for some time now. Could I ask your impressions? They advertise that it is ideal for lighter less powerful lathes. Have you found this to be the case? I would just like to get a few opinions before dropping that much money
Hi, I apologize for the late reply. I'm using the Diamond tool holder for many years and I must say that I'm satisfied. Now I have seen this tool used on toolroom size lathes without any problem (mostly as a secondary tool because its fast to grind and use). The lack of power on small lathes makes it ideal for the 80-85% of the needed operations, meaning that you can save money for some specific indexable carbide tool holders. Although I have a very good set of indexable tool holders to use them with my QCTP (upcoming project), I'll not stop using the Diamond tool; I'll keep it as a secondary tool. I hope this to help you a bit on the decision? Regards from Greece Jimmy
Really was my pleasure! I'm sure that you can get a lot more information if you contact Gary: gary@eccentricengineering.com.au This is a link of a video I have made about the Diamond tool holder: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ALxJ7JELH8o.html Take care Jimmy
@@JimmysCanal thank you much. I have seen your video on it and a few other peoples. Everyone is happy with eccentric engineering but I have only seen it used on smaller Chinese lathes. I have a small, but very rigid and very old 10-in Sheldon so I have been on the fence. I always wonder about the tool slipping downwards in the holder, particularly want some oil is splashed around.
Hello Jean-Paul, Yes usually you see this tool used on smaller lathes, but this doesn't mean that it can't be used on some bigger lathes; the obvious difference could be only on surface finish, carbides give very nices finishes! The possibility of the HSS bit to split downwards in the holder is minimum, unless you forget to tighten the screw; otherwise I assure you that its really very difficult to happen if the speed and feed is the right one. All the best Jimmy
I have a lathe who has handwheels I can not reset to zero making it more diffivult to do right, more expensive lathes can adjust that mm reading on tht wheel, I do not now the right word but is there some diy for this, so it can rebuild such I can reset it? Like set it to zero. Thanks
Hello, I apologize for the late reply! What are you looking for, its called handwheel dial. You can find it in machinery supply shops as machine spares. Take a look at these links: www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/Machine-Handles littlemachineshop.com/products/search.php?tabName=Products&term=lathe+handwheels perhaps you can find something that fits or to modify. All the best Jimmy
Hello, Thank you for asking! By saying "the purpose of the relief" I assume that you're speaking for the slot in the inside corner of the clamp (set at 45 degrees). This relief helps to avoid direct contact between the edge of the lathe bed and the corner of the clamp. Cheers Jimmy
You know, this is the age-old problem of trying to make a silk purse from a sows ear. Forget it. DONT BUY THIS CHINESE JUNK IN THE FIRST PLACE. SAVE YOUR MONEY and buy a larger lathe.
