@@loiduongjr Word. What do you identify as your biggest weaknesses as a climber? You're mad strong with solid technique, I have a similar build and metrics but climb even lower grades than you so I'm curious
@@spacedumpster The thing is climbing is so diverse that its kinda wrong to talk about it as a whole. I cook all of the kids in slab besides toma (toma is actually unreall top tier genetic climbing lottery tho). I cook all of them including toma on pure power dynos and power paddles and lachees. In jug to jug kilter style hauls i also cook. I struggle at OffSite because its kinda anti style to me. I'm not very good at nuking my fingers on small holds and thats what the tb2 and spray wall is. The biggest thing holding me back right now is that I'm severely over loaded with stress and recovering from finals.
Sweet vid!!! I personally think when testing and analyzing RFD i only pay attention to the time interval section of the results, put the time to 250ms (most RFD/power research is this), and adjust the threshold to be the last possible moment before the spike. That way you can see more accurately how much weight you can pull within 250ms or whatever time you prefer, the intention should be closing your fingers into a half crimp as fast as you can. Hope this helps at all!
Hi. I remember reading your Reddit post about not being an outlier, how fast do u think those levels of strength can be reached by someone who climbs v5 on gym.
Depends on a ton of factors. If you have bad genetics maybe never, If you have average genetics you could probably achieve it in 4-10 years. If you have good genetics than you'd already have it aha. I think focusing on whats in your control is the best approach. Just maximize what you are doing everyday and you will achieve the top of what your body can do. Thats the coolest thing. Keep going!
