I love that its an old Paramount with campy...- and at the same time as the final days of Waterford and Richard Schwinn entering his retirement, this feels a bit like a tribute to the Schwinn family, Paramount, Waterford, and Gunnar bikes.
This bike looks like Tigra a Swiss brand that had in fifties and sixties pro riders they disappeared because of the rise of Italian and American brands (Cannondale and Trek, Colnago)
Yes, there's always learning to be done when you work on these. I've seen that kind of steerer tube bulge twice: on an early 1960s Schwinn road bike and on a 1940s Raleigh road bike. I would say over-tightened stems in both cases. I used frame blocks to iron out the bulges, but agree it's best to avoid setting the stem in that same spot again in any event. Both frames were otherwise clean and free of defect. If you go through enough old bikes, you'll eventually encounter the bulged steerer tube problem.
He demonstrated this in a video at Sea Otter a few years ago, likening it to how otters crack open clam shells on their chests. I've been doing it that way ever since.
I'm so very glad to see Calvin promoting torque sensitivity and setting without the industries seeming obsession with the use of published specific values and torque wrenches on everything. Thanks!
The obsession is because materials (especially carbon) are easily damaged with incorrectly torqued fasteners. Bikes nowadays are built with tighter tolerances than the old bikes as well, or at least they are supposed to be. Tighter tolerances require higher precision in assembly.
@@Leviathandk Old or new, especially on a pinch or friction fittings like a seatpost or a handlebar clamp, a careful and reasonably experienced mechanic can feel and test the effectiveness of a particular joint with far more nuance than any torque spec. DON'T GET ME WRONG! I am not suggesting that torque measurement and torque specs are not of great use and value. I use torque tools every day. What I am saying is that, within the bike industry, I perceive measured torque to be seen as this gold standard held in high regard above a responsible and experienced and "torque aware" mechanic's feel for a particular fastener and joint. AND, that is NOT always the case!! I would suggest you are not very experienced or wise if you tighten your brake levers on a mountain bike to their full torque spec. In the real world, there are many situations where every joint is not new or engineered to perfection where judgement and "feel" are far more important than measured torque. Torqueing tapered joints like crank arms is a place where torque measuring tools are easily fooled or provide poor and/or inconsistent accuracy. I guess I'm saying, use your head! Be aware that the real world often doesn't follow the rules that many people want to simplify it to.
@@trekkeruss Yes, we absolutely need to be aware of the torque limitations of the fasteners, joints, and materials were are working with. Nobody in their right might is arguing against that. BUT, that absolutely does not mean that every joint and fastener on every bicycle needs to be set to a measured torque. Thank you Calvin! I rag on my junior staff every day about under and over torqueing fasteners on the bikes they build or otherwise work on. Torque is important. Torque wrenches are a great teaching tool to give inexperienced people perspective (and experienced people accurate torque on many things). And, for what it's worth, actually tighter tolerances allow better functionality with sloppier torque. On the other hand, delicate and slippery materials like carbon often have extremely tight torque "windows" that do deserve regular measured torque use, if for no other reason that if it is torqued AND slipping, you can send it back as deflective!
I was honored to work with the Park Tool Company as a sales representative, selling them some parts for one of their machine tool setups in 2022. Also, I did my first week-long bike tour in over 30 years, and purchased some Park Tools brand tools, all in 2022. It's weird serendipity allowed me to ask the fellow purchasing the parts about the activities of one Mr. Calvin Jones. If there was a patron saint for bike tourers, it should be Calvin, hear hear!
Please add links for the other videos on this vintage bike. Am really looking forward to fixing up the lugged steel bike I picked up, and these videos are great!
I don't think I could tighten my seatpost binder bolt that way. I'd be too paranoid I was either gonna mess up the brazed on clamp up or snap my binder bolt without my 5nm torque key. Silly thing is doing it this way probably stresses the clamp less over the years and is probably better than a flat 5Nm setting.
Real good . I remember in done all that back as a teen when i had to fix my own ten speed and then 12 speed because there were no good bike techs then. I did learn more new things here today and thank you.
I’ve jad stem bulge on several steel forks, usually I swage the bulge out by using ansteel 1 inch block in the vise and tap tap tap on the bulge with anmedium ball peen hammer until the bulge is gone. Thos is called cold working and is how tubes are formed which is cold with mandrels . Even the fork blades are formed and bent cold.
Flat-faced sockets marketed for suspension forks fit many locknuts on threaded headsets - much nicer than adjustable wrench and can be used with a torque wrench.
I wasn't holding my breath, but still hoping to see Calvin use the HW-2 (one of my favorite discontinued tools) on the headset locknut. Come to think of it, was there an HW-1 or just HW?
Good for aluminium nutted headsets, but not much else. Mine spends its lifetime sulking in the back of the headset tool drawer, which I regret, given how much it cost. .
@@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 I disagree. I see steel headset locknuts with wrench marks on them all the time. But if you're not using yours, they're worth a good chunk of change on the secondhand market, so unburden yourself!
You'd set your headset adjustment once the bike is together, so you've got handlebars and the frame to amplify the movement, wouldn't you? Then again after 20-30 kms to account for riding rattling them into place. I don't think you'd call a stem wedge-induced bulge in a steerer a 'witness mark'. Witness marks are used (intentionally or unintentionally) to aid reassembly. Maybe it's an 'anti-witness mark'. On a steerer with a bulge, you'd be better off running a stem with an angled wedge, which would mean that you can put the stem where you like. Also, it's a good idea when you've got a threaded headset apart to run a thread die (if available, as they should be) down the threads to chase them, especially if the steerer has been deformed. Also, remove, clean and grease the seat post binder bolt if you want decent torque/clamping pressure: I had expensive Campag ones snap on me, because the machining made stress risers in the root of the thread, & if they didn't have grease they acted like every temperamental Italian thing/person I've ever come across. Strangely, none of the Taiwanese one I used ever did.
Hey smarty-pants, you'd sound even smarter if you knew the difference between a thread die and a thread chaser. You don't "chase" threads with a die, a die may remove metal. See, I can be pedantic with the best of them. Also, the way Mr. Calvin Jones uses the term "witness mark" is technically correct in every sense, look it up.
@@carlbegnaud4851 this bike isn't that different from a classic 1990s mtb. If you search for it the pictures show it with rim brakes and some have early suspension forks where the stanchions are covered by a rubber protection. A nice classic bike, always a good ride!
Some have the square drive just put in from one side, you can put it out and put it in from tge other side. Gedore has such torque wrenches. However Park tool torque wrenches also work in both directions.
if you buy a new bike from a bicycle specific shop , they likely have set up the bike to be working optimally already. opposed to buying from a "has-it-all" shop like Walmart or Costco, where you will likely find less care was taken when assembling the bike
How much weight really!? It’s worth the trade off for such beauty in a classic frame. I’m no frame build expert but I believe the lugs are what connect and secure the frame elements so no ugly welds needed, just what’s used to secure the tubes. People that ride these bikes aren’t weight weenies.
