Your advice to practice with the camera before going out is very valuable. Adding one more to it: buy a separate lightmeter and carry that around and meter all kinds of circumstances for a while. After a week or two you get the hang of it and will be able to estimate the correct exposure within 1 or 2 stops, even before you use the lightmeter.
I can confirm that the tips for practice at the end of the video are useful, something that I hoped someone could’ve told me before I purchased my brand new M6 TTL a few weeks ago. Was about to purchase a used M7 with aperture priority but, saw this beauty. Who could say no to a brand new M6 - as in no film was loaded ever before, right? It’s not my first Leica, not even the second, but my very first M. So the biggest fear immediately after purchase was to quickly master the metering techniques for my typical type of photography - street. And guess what? After shooting 3 or 4 rolls after a few weeks, seeing that red dot in the finder, and confirming my exposure input before even raising the camera to my eye is a great sense of achievement to me. Great work Bobby!
When this camera was re-introduced back in about 2002, I was persuaded by the great Jim Kuehl that MP stood for Marketing Ploy. I never got over not getting one. Last year, I sold my M7 because I really never wanted an aperture priority body and if it ever failed, the camera would only have one working shutter speed. That and it was chrome. I was on a waiting list for a black paint MP for months when I started to look outside of the country. I found a brand new one and jumped on it. I love it. It has reinvigorated my love of film. I have 35 years of Leica cameras and admire them all. II highly recommend the Leica MP.
@@markking7275 Actually I just bought one with only one shutter speed! The Kodak Ektar H35 half frame and I love it! As for the M7, it has 'only' two shutter speeds when you don't use batteries. And with those two shutter speeds you still have your full complement of apertures, so your shooting window is (using a Summilux 50) f1.4 @ 1/60 to f/16 @ 1/125. Which is actually very handy! I also have the MP, an M-A, M3 etc but the AE mode of the M7 makes it the best shooter if you just need to get the shot quickly. My Nikon F6 which some argue is the greatest 35mm camera ever made? Zero mechanical speeds and zero apertures if no batteries...
Bobby you hit the nail on the head literally every point. Especially about shooting wide open. People who are obsessed with shooting wide open 24/7 need to have a bit of a wake up call. Not only about the purpose of a range finder camera but the actual type of photography one does to justify owning certain types of cameras. I have been meaning to make a video about this topic but haven't had the guts yet to make such a controversial rant. Anyways, congratulations on continued ownership of the MP. I love my M2 and actually I have been thinking of two routes for the future. Either I have Kanto Camera in Tokyo do a full BP overhaul job on it and wait the nearly 1 year for it to finish or sell it, a long with a testicle and get a BP MP .72 like yours. Tbh I am certainly fine with my silver brass M2 but every time I handle an MP or even MA my heart just melts into the ground. It's seriously an experience.. lol Anyways bro. Keep up the good work with the channel. Already busting out a few videos? Sheesh..
Thanks Alex! Yes it can be quite controversial to talk about not shooting wide open all the time but the reality is, it’s damn hard to to do with Rangefinder cameras I hear you on the dilemma with the M2 or MP. M2 prices are increasing and Kanto painted further enhances the value. It’s a long wait though. Yes the MP is a special camera though 😊
M3 was my first M camera. $500 with a fresh cla, can’t do that anymore, lol. I skipped the MP and bought an M7. Takes care of the metering issues you have in auto, you can over ride by half pressing the shutter and then turning the aperture ring as well to over or under expose by your choice of amount. Plus in auto it shows you the actual shutter speed. Quite often I’ll check out the shutter speed in auto, and then change to manual mode based off of that initial reading. Much faster than the twirl and hunt in the m6 or mp.
Yes the M7 from what I hear and your comment seems to be the one M that simplifies the process and makes it easier. Will see about trying one in the future. As for the M3 those 500 dollar days are long gone 😂
I’ve been on the waitlist in both Bellevue, WA and Los Angeles, CA for 4 months! How did you get one so fast?! Lucky!! According to both locations we are looking at 1 year to 1.5 years for black paint and 8 months to 1 year for chrome!! Help!
Great review. I certainly love my Leica MP, i have to say though that i fin focusing wide open very easy on a rangefinder. Easier than with a film SLR for example.
I picked up the MP this afternoon. The owner of the shop said Leica will introduce a new film camera in October. Will it be an "affordable ' M6? Or will it be a more 'Perfection' camera? Will it replace the MA and MP? I am happy that I got one in time. Every visit to the shop I saw customers bringing in film to develop. The owner also told me that it is good opportunity for Leica to produce mechanical camera because of chips shortage and shooting film is getting very popular here in the Netherlands.
Bobby, Bobby, Bobby… you really should investigate the M4… almost the same as an M3, but with 35mm frame lines, the “claw” take-up reel, a two piece advance lever (easily replaced with the one from an M3, if you really need one) and the same build quality as the M3. However, with only 40,000 or so units produced it’s scarcer (and hence more expensive than a M3). And a better rewind knob as well. Think of it as an M3 improved. All in all, a better choice than the M3… and cheaper than an M-P. Get yourself a good hand-held meter, learn to judge the light from the Sunny 16 rule and you are good to go.
Hi Bill yes I’ve heard great things about the M4. For me I enjoy the larger view finder of the M3 though, but yes the M4 is an improved camera. Prices are increasing substantially on these as well.
with respect to the light meter, I have not used an MP but I do have an M6, which I understand to be similar. assuming it works the same, the red triangles do vary in intensity in terms of how much over or under exposed you are, so there is some nuance to it - it's not as you imply only being about the center, under or over. but as I say, I don't know the MP - just the M6.
Hi Robert thanks for the comment. In terms intensity it may be there but its not really evident. Definitely there are other meters that are easier to read and understand, and for new photographers coming to the Leica MP, it definitely needs some practice to use it
I'd like an M-A front and top engraving of the silver on the MP. Perfect combination! While everyone goes for the black paint, I'm lusting for the silver chrome MP.
I did have a play with my friends chrome MP, it's a beauty like some people say it's a fine jewel, more weighty and more substantial than an M6, I really like the MP. I thought about my future MP, chrome or BP? Most people who go for the BP version desire that brassed look over time. I have an old SLR that I bought eons ago and it is very brassed and looks great. Your MP does not seem to show much brass, I guess you take very good care of it? Sorry, I'm just curious to know from your perspective as a MP BP version owner. Cheers...
Hi John thanks for watching. Yes I take really good care of mine, as I don’t want it to brass to much yet. Because the black paint is really special to me I want to maintain it as long as I can.
Hi Bobby. Nice video! Currently I'm using MP BP 2021 with vulcanite leatherette. While I love my new film journey with the MP (my dream film camera), sometimes I miss my M6 TTL from the year 2000. Something about that hollow chamber sound everytime I press the shutter button and the weight was just perfect. Cheers.
The MP is a stunner, shortcomings aside. A 35mm camera for life. *But...* there's a strong case to be made for finding a mint M4 at around $2500, which was the last M body to employ all brass gears (before Leica started using zinc, etc.).
@@husshardan3511 M5 had brass top and bottom plates, but the innards used cheaper steel gears on the inside than the M4 and M3 that proceeded it (which were mostly and all brass, respectively).
I have an M6TTL and considered an MP but decided not to because the flash is not TTL. I don't use my Leica SF20 flash much but it is great to have. No chance of using it with the MP. Still a beautiful camera all the same. Cheers!
wow exactly the video i was looking for. great explanation and insight on so many things. I was a bit puzzled how to focus on these analogue cameras as I've only shot digital before, so am used to looking at a screen. Thanks mate!
So, after drooling and getting comfortable with my brand new, bought at a Leica Store, black paint MP, it’s out of calibration! (Had my M6TTL as a backup) Had to have the rangefinder calibrated as none of my M lenses would focus to infinity.
@@Channel_Yo Leica did fix it though I had to use my usual store rather than revisit the Leica Store that I bought it from because that would've involved another 600km round trip. Happily my usual store is a Leica Boutique as well. I guess that if I had checked it when I bought it I may have caught this and had fewer challenges, but it's OK now. To be fair, I have many other Leica's both bought new and used and it's the first time I've had an issue.
Hi Bobby! I am currently debating between getting a used mint from 2003 Leica MP BP vs paying top dollar for a brand new.. The savings would be $800. What would your advice be? Go for the new one or save some money and get the used one? The used one only comes with the gray case and it has the same shark skin as yours.. I wonder how much you spent on this used one, with box/no box? Also found another one that it is already brasssing but savings there would be around 1800.. thoughts? Thanks! great video!
Thanks for watching. Some things to consider and ask. From 2003 to 2023 has it had a CLA or and servicing? If it hasn’t, a CLA will be a few hundred dollars and that will reduce the savings even more. Also there have been some minor refinements from 2003 to 2023. They aren’t major but small things. When I got mine in 2016-2017, the savings was significant from a new one so it made sense. But I feel for 800 difference you are getting a new camera that is yours. Something to consider
I own the Voigtländer Bessa R2M and fell in love with film range finders. Paid full price for a brand new black paint MP at the Leica Shop last year. Yes the MP is beautiful and better made but the R2M is a nicer camera to shoot with. Just got a BNIB Pentax 645j and that is in another league above the MP. What is black paint when you have Urushi …
Ah yes the m3. I remember buying a new Nikon digital dslr at the time. Went to a camera store to see what they had for lenses and a woman brought in a Leica m3. Not going to lie, I wish I bought it right on the spot. I felt I got cheated by the universe haha.
Man there’s a guy here in Thailand that gets the brassiest stuff ever. I can forward it to you if you read your messages on Instagram. It’s fun just to look at the photos even if you don’t buy anything.
With due consideration I hesitate to push the M3! I have one, mine 55 years in service since new! What's wrong? AGE! The glues holding Viewfinder optics together are now very brittle. Any M-4 or m4-2, M4-P are better. The M6 M6TTL too many cost cutting features. A plastic counter? Sad. Mine never works and no more parts for meter if it ceases. I'll buy one of new push on meters, but not from Leica. All the best! Oh! Lots of better cameras out there and way less money than Monochrom. Any old CCD camera has similar BW. But, I love color! I still shoot BW on M3.
Bobby T!, I love your work and I’ve watched quite a few of your reviews. Mostly those involving Leica M/SL bodies and lenses. That said, hands down-this was my favorite video to date. I was in a similar situation as that described in this review. Modern and brand new MP or vintage and tradition with the M3. I ended up seeing a Kanto serviced and repainted (Black) M3. I was able to compliment this body with a Kanto repainted (Black) Summicron M 50mm f2 DR, and an authentic Leica Red soft shutter release. Yeah Boy! Please keep the videos coming. Educational. Informative. Entertaining. Be Blessed, Doc Chaps
Bobby, I’d be more that happy to share pictures of my babies with you. Give me a few days however to send. I live and work in Okinawa, Japan. I’m currently in Tokyo area for a conference and I didn’t bring the M3. As soon as I’m back, you’re on. Be Blessed, Doc Chaps
Given the fact this camera is pretty expensive for me, I'm thinking to buy some lenses from carl zeiss or maybe voigtlander. Do you know by any chance if these lenses ( Voigtlander 35mm f1.4 MC VM II Nokton-Classic, Zeiss 35mm f1.4 Distagon T* ZM, Zeiss 35mm f2 Biogon T* ZM) are compatible with/getting good results with leica mp? Thank you.
thank you bobby! i am your fan from s. korea i always watched your device reviews and it helped me a lot. i use m3 single stroke for a long time and want to use leica mp one day. do you think upgrading my m3 to mp improve my photo quality? or do you reccomend keep using m3?
Thank you for watching and your kind words. If you are good with the M3 there is no need to change unless you want the in built meter and smaller view finder to accommodate more lenses. I would say invest in lenses for better photo quality as film bodies don’t affect photos.
Nice video. Now for Part Two. I would like to know more about your experience of shooting FIlm with the MP over the last year. The good and the bad of shooting film. processing. slowing down. Leica film vs say M-D or M10-D experience. Especially since you mentioned that maybe this was your first film Leica. As a Leica shooter I'm constantly thinking about making the switch to a Film Leica. I recently sold my M10-P (already regret it...lol) Kept all my M lenses with a SL2-S. To me they were both two similar and four I favored electronic viewfinder if digital. Thought was to get a rangefinder that offered something different. Spent a month looking for an MP Film, but do I want to deal with all the hassle of film. Other option was an older M-D but you can find them anywhere here at least. So decided on a Q2M...lol! So I'm still interested in your thoughts on film as a Leica shooter. food for thought. Thanks
Hey Johnny, love the idea. Yes I’ll definitely to a video like this in the near future and also about shooting film in general. To give you a quick answer, film is romantic, nostalgic, and organic. The cameras of years past are interesting and fun to shoot with. The cost of film though to buy, develop and scan is quite pricey. I think film is a nice “holiday” for photographers to take at times to reconnect to the past, but digital is still the way to go for cost effectiveness and speed
I like the M7. If you want to go auto you have the choice which is nice sometimes. Some “purists” opt for everything to be manual but I tend to embrace technology and camera advancements vs ignore it
I have the larger diameter version of the soft release, but what sits on my MP now is the Komura soft release in red. It’s beautiful. Shame I only learnt about Komura after I couldn’t get the Limited Edition polished brass soft release. On a black paint MP, that would’ve been sick.
@@btonelli I know. I did ask them if they would be re-issuing the brass one and they said no, because it was a limited edition. Now I check them every now and again to see if there is anything interesting.
Well leica M3’s from the 50’s and 60’s are still working well today and so are the Leica IIIa’s before that. If the cameras are treated well they can last a long time. They were made for that
Bobby! On the waitlist for an MP. Not many reviews on this beautiful camera. Please do a full review. I shoot mostly film and also shoot digital. Would love to hear your review :)
Hi. Actually this is my review 😊 with film cameras there is not much more to go in depth on. Image quality is more reliant on lens and film choice vs camera
Hmm tough decision. Here are the pros and cons: Pros: new 2022 has brass top plate, more refined build quality and MP viewfinder without flare. Cons: more expensive. M6 TTL pros: larger shutter dial so easier to change, slightly lighter, can come in silver (but need to be careful as the silver paint can bubble over time if not cared for due to the metal used for the top plate. Also can get .85 magnification for viewfinder. Cons: flare in viewfinder, paint can be an issue and not brass. Also if you want to service it through Leica they charge over 1k USD to do it and they basically overhaul the camera.
Hi John. No I left middle of last year and moved to Geek Culture and also here. They didn’t want me to record a goodbye video which was unfortunate but glad you discovered me here
@@btonelli you mean order as a backorder on one of the major photo sites like BH or Adorama? It wont let me order on the Leica site, only has the notify me option.
...at 10:30 we are told the selected aperture impacts our ability to focus "if you're trying to focus fast or if you're in a low-light situation". Utter nonsense. One of the strengths of the Leica M's RF system is that the measuring base remains constant regardless of the lens or aperture in use. Basic RF101.
Hmm so you can nail focus at 1.4 or f2 spot on using zone focusing? This is what I’m referring to. When you stop down to 5.6 or f8 yes this method you mention applies and works really well but for faster apertures not so much
...sorry to contradict you again, @@btonelli, but you specifically referred to "if you're trying to focus fast or if you're in a low-light situation". As I stated earlier on, "one of the strengths of the Leica M's RF system is that the measuring base *remains constant* regardless of the lens or aperture in use". Focusing accuracy through the VF of an RF is not impacted simply because you are shooting at f8 or f0.95 - the VF retains its original brightness irrespective of lens or aperture in use. Whether or not you manage to nail focus through the lens and onto the sensor (film or digital) is quite another matter, as other variable come into play. We know of RF lenses that back-focus or front-focus, and there is also the dreaded focus shift - none of these situations are apparent in the VF of an RF. With RFs, what you see through the VF is not necessarily what you get on the sensor. If you wish to discuss zone focusing as a technique, then be good enough to point out that it is not an RF-specific issue. Hope this helps. Thanks.
It seems I’m taking about the sky and your talking about the grass so to speak. I’m referring to using fast aperture lenses with the range finder patch and trying to nail focus is more difficult especially when you are using a small square in the middle of the frame. In addition when you are shooting in lower light situations the difficulty nailing focus becomes more difficult as the entire scene is dark and also you need to focus on a small area inside square patch of the rangefinder. There is no light or constant lighting source to assist in this.A SLR are you using the entire viewfinder as your focal length. You are using a portion of the VF dependent on the focal length of the lens. Compound that with Low light and trying to focus on a small section of an image with aligning two squares makes it more difficult.
...yes, @@btonelli, we both agree that Leica RF focusing becomes more challenging with less light, but my point (all along) has been that it has nothing to do with whatever lens is attached to the camera body or whatever aperture is selected. The VF provides the entire scene - the lens attached to the camera body automatically selects the appropriate frame lines in the VF for its focal length - this helps you frame the image in the VF. Focusing is done manually via the lens, and this moves a cam which connects the lens to the RF system, so that adjustments to focus can be seen in the VF (via the two focusing rectangles). The focal length and framelines may change, but the size of the focusing rectangles in the VF remains constant, irrespective of lens or aperture in use. With the M's RF system, the measuring base remains constant regardless of the lens in use. Are you conflating the zone of focus for a specific RF lens/aperture with RF focusing through the VF? They are two separate but connected things, you know.
Hi. Let’s do this. Take your Leica M camera with a 50 or 35 or even 75 1.4 and time how fast you can nail Focus from picking up the camera to taking a pic. Don’t preset your lens just pick up the camera and shoot. Next time yourself doing the same thing at f5.6 or f8 and see the timing. My guess is based on experience it will take you longer to nail focus at 1.4 vs 5.6 or f8. Let me know your outcome because that’s exactly what I’m talking about in the video. Using a fast aperture requires more concentration and fine tuning the focus ring to nail focus. Compound that in a lower light Situation it becomes more difficult.
@@btonelli Sorry still do not understand. The image from the lens does not take part in the rangefinder focusing system. You can focus a leica m film camera even with a lenscover on front off the lens.
the patch inside the rangefinder is what you focus on. When you are stopped down more is in focus, vs when you are wide open at f1.4. Not the surrounding area but whats inside the patch is what matters.
What the hell is the point of getting a monstrously expensive fast lens like a Summilux if they are problematic in operation??. It's pretty clear why the Nikon F obliterated Leica when it was introduced.
I had a chance to choose a Leica and I passed. Why? Let’s face it, all modern cameras are computers. You have to look at it from that perspective. Leica just isn’t up to snuff when we compare it to the competition. I would rather put my money into Fuji and buy a few phenomenal lenses for the same cost. One day I may circle back to Leica. But for now? I personally believe the hype is greater than reality when it comes to their digital pursuits.