Lexus and Toyota tensioner pulley bearing replacement 

Would this work on a 2007 Toyota Camry do you think

Awesome!

Check out the description or pinned comment to find the part number for the replacement that doesn't need a press. People have been having good luck with it.

Zac Thompson did have the awd version ? Manual or automatic ? Thanks

Jeffrey Melgar Automatic AWD

@@zacthompson7292 what about the other pulley for the idler?

Just completed a water pump replace on 2008 Lexus IS250 AWD (~170k miles of Midwest driving). The Gates 36325 worked spot onto replace the tensioner pulley. As mentioned previously, it's narrower than the stock part but wide enough to support the belt. Only trick to remove the tensioner pully center bolt is to use an impact wrench to remove. As the bolt threads are left hand, the gun should be set to the tighten direction (clockwise rotation). I used a Milwaukee 2554-20 with speed setting #3...worked like a charm. Love justifying the purchase of a new tool!!! The idler pulley should be commonly available....I used a Bando 580153 (made in Canada!). While this thread isn't necessarily water pump related, I would suggest to only use the Aisin pump for this vehicle (WPT137 or WPT-137). It is literally the Toyota part with with Toyota name slightly abraded from the surface of the casting...I could still clearly see the top of the T and Y...haha! Plus it comes with the necessary two o-rings for the the thermostat housing. Also installed a TYC radiator (2968). While this particular radiator was mfr in China, I have had great experience with TYC-Taiwan parts previously

This exact thing happened to the Lexus in this video about 6 months later

I have an 08 GS350. To be clear: what pulley did you use for the tensioner pulley replacement, or did you replace the entire unit? OR, did you replace just the bearing(s)? The idler pulley is easy no-brainer. The tensioner pulley is the great unknown. Thanks!

@@bobbyglover5893 I only replace the pulley, not the entire unit. I order it from a Lexus dealer online, but Advance Autoparts also have good quality parts to fit Lexus OEM.

I haven't heard which one is better, people seem to be happy with both

Not that i know of. You may have luck at ACE hardware if you have one locally. They are my go to for metal spacers, and I have had really good luck finding ones that work. If I can't find it there, I have my cousin machine them from raw steel.

Clockwise to loosen, like you would normally tighten the bolt. It's a Left hand thread.

Turn your volume up sir

I didn't test it out, but they look the same, although the idler only uses a single bearing

I torqued it to the very specific torque of Snug-as-a-bug-in-a-rug (I did not torque it to any spec)

I believe so. As far as I know the 6203 is the size and style of bearing and the 2rs just means they are rubber sealed and a 2 pack

Not that I am aware of

How they working so far were they any different from the OEM pulleys? In terms of dimensions ext?

​@@nicoray15 It's been 2 months now, and it's still working great! They are just a bit different than the OEM pulleys, the diameter is the same, but it's just a little less wide, however, it is wide enough to fit the belt just fine. I also had to change my belt but no more noise and the car is running perfectly.

There should be no play in the pulley itself, but the tensioner will move quite a bit while running.

Sorry, I cannot find the torque specs on it

@@AustinCoulson thank you no problem :-)

should be the same on the 07-10 Camry with 3.5

yes, you then use the ratchet or wrench to relieve pressure on the allen key and remove it (the allen key) and then tension the belt

2(Pack) 6203 2RS C3 / DDUC3 NSK 2 RUBBER SHIELDED BALL BEARING 17X40X12CM

Great to hear! Thanks for letting us know!

What is the year make and model of the car you put this on? Is it still working fine?

Jo Tu 2006 is250 AWD and 50/50 I think I have to replace my whole tensioner. Noise is back but not from the pulley

@@hilariopenaloza5858 1) Is the new squeak the same exact noise or a totally different kinda "squeak"?

Jo Tu Same squeak TBH. After replacement the noise went away for a few months and now it’s back. I hear it during the first 5 minutes of a cold start and after driving the car for more than 30 minutes.

Koyo 6302rmx, there a bit hard to find as they are somewhat special and the inner race is thicker. I bought mine off aliexpress for about 25$ aliexpress is allright if you don't mind waiting a few weeks. Tensioner pulley is double bearings 6203rs

I am not sure

It was actually the alternator clutch. I had to replace that a few months after doing this pulley

@@AustinCoulson A/C clutch?

@@sd906238 no, the alternator clutch. This model has a built in clutch on the pulley of the alternator similar to the ac clutch.

I did the same repair on mine, a 2008 Lexus IS 250, after the repair I put it back on and it still making the chirping noise and I can actually see a very small vibration on the pulley while the Car is on Any suggestions

​@@AustinCoulson goto love the selective charge systems 😂

It should be the same

I think so, but I'm not 100% sure

Nick-- I own a 2013 rx350... How did yours go? Were the 6203 the correct bearings? Any other comments would be appreciated.

Thanks! It was driving my father in law nuts so that's why we made the video. I'll add tags for sure

@@AustinCoulson Just FYI, if you ever need the full pulley for the tensioner, I did find one on Amazon amzn.to/2Chxq6D . But I am going tomorrow to the local bearing supply and get enough to do all of them, probably for the same price as that one pulley.

I don't know off the top of my head if that will work, but I am with you on Timken, they are my preferred bearing brand. I went with the cheaper bearings in the 10 pack because I wasn't 100% sure this would work when I ordered it. You will need 2 bearings for this procedure, and as long as the dimensions of the timken are the same (and I am pretty sure all 6203's have the same dimensions, but you should double check) then you should be good to go with the better Timken bearings. Hope this helps!

Did you order these TImkens you mentioned and did it work? Any other tips? Your fast reply is greatly appreciated.

@@jotu173 I never heard back from him if he got the timkens or not, but the ones I used have been working great and quiet so far

Trying to ask P Jain this question... Did you order these TImkens you mentioned and did it work? Any other tips? Your fast reply is greatly appreciated.

Yes the 6203-RS is the correct and highest quality bearings you can get. The other belt pulley on the RX350 (I have replaced on both a 2007 & 2015 RX350) uses a single Koyo 6302 RMX. I don't think Timken makes a bearing with a correct inside diameter for this application. Note: The part of the part number after and including the C is not important to match and can be C1, C2, or C3. Also if you want to really go the extra mile remove the seals, pack in additional grease, then reseal. Sometimes from the factory not much grease is included, so if you go this far it is worth checking.

That's the same issue this Lexus had and it fixed ours

if the noise comes with the ac, the most likely culprit is an old belt that is slipping on the AC pulley and not the bearings for the tensioner. You can try using a belt conditioner spray and if it helps then its time for a new belt

Its a LHT thread so it'd be difficult to find at a hardware store, but you can order it from Toyota

This repair should fix that specific issue. It's impossible to know for sure without seeing it, but basically the tensioners only job is to have spring loaded tension and those rarely fail. The common failure is the pulley bearings and that sounds like exactly what happened to you. Sounds like the bearings were going bad, then seized, which blew the belt. You should be able to follow this video, swap the bearings, install a new belt and be good to go. Let me know if this works out for you, and good luck!

@@AustinCoulson on my 07 Camry 3.5, would the tensioner pulley / bearing be the same pulley / bearing as my idler pulley? Thanks again!

@@brandonalbright125 no, they are different. You can try gates part number 36325, people are having luck buying just that pulley and swapping them so you don't have to do the whole tensioner or my bearing swap

@@AustinCoulson Hey thanks, but when I type that part # in on Amazon it pulls up a gates idler pulley and amazon says it's not the correct fitting part for my Camry?

@@brandonalbright125 correct, that part is not designed for your car, but if you check out my description or the first pinned comment, one of my viewers found out that the part that isn't designed for these cars will fit anyways. Basically, no one sells just the pulley, they want you to replace the entire tensioner so I figured out how to replace just the bearings and the other viewer found out you can just buy a different pulley made for a different car instead of my solution

over 2 years and still no noise

@@AustinCoulson thanks I'll get those as well than

Here is the press: www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html Good ear on the chirp at the end. I had to replay the video as I did not notice it at the time. The squealing from the tensioner pulley went away with this procedure, but a few months later it developed a second noise from the alternator clutch (the mechanism within the pulley on the front of the alternator). We had to replace that as well. I think that is what you were hearing there. When the bearings were bad it was a nonstop squeal that changed tones when it warmed up, but was always there. The alternator chirp was just that, an occasional chirp that happened whenever the alternator would engage/disengage

I should note that the bearings were replaced 10 months ago and they are doing great and the alternator clutch was done about 5 months ago and there's been no sound since.

​@@AustinCoulson Thanks for ur fast replies. Funny that you brought up the Alt. Clutch because Innitially I used a mechanics stethascope which lead to my first guess being that my issue is the alternator clutch but can not confirm that this is the issue 100% (maybe if I can perform the gates diagnosis mentioned later though). I fully loosened the belt and the alternator pulley rotates freely both ways without sound and it is not the idler pulley next to it either (I replaced idler and same sound is made). I was going to test the clutch but not sure if I remove the cap that the cap will be able to be replaced. In other words, by trying to fix it, I may break it (if I break the cap). 1) Do you know how to remove the Alt Pulley cap so it can be replaced? 2.) did you replace the clutch while Alt and belt was still on the car (Belt de tensioned of course) or take it off to replace it? I ask because I would prefer to do it on the car but I have significant access issues (it is on a 2008 Avalon). 3.) What (specific) tool (or kit) did you use to release the pulley from the Alt shaft? I can not find the single (for Toyotas) 17MM/19MM hollow tool (turned with a wrench) as shown in Gates video and am unsure about the tool to insert into the shaft (there are 3 possible "male shaped" ( ?? Hex, Star, Torx ???) tools to insert into the shaft depending on the car). I am afraid that I will get the cap open and not be able to get the clutch off (due to not having the correct tool to lock the shaft in place while removing the pulley, then be unable to get a possibly broken cap back on the pulley if I am unsuccessful replacing it). Gates makes this clutch removal kit but I am better off replacing the alternator entirely as I am not gonna pay the $80. ish that gates want for the tool kit... www.gates.com/us/en/ymm/search/part/details?part-number=91024 Gates shows how to test the alt clutch here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hrFcPqZuO3A.html But My alternator clutch cap looks different than theirs and I can not figure out how to remove it. 4.) I am hoping you have already learned about the Alt Clutch Cap and can share what you know with me. 5.) how did you confirm (100% for sure) that it was the Alt. clutch/pulley when you had this issue? 6.) Your opinion please... if I end up doing the bearings on the tensioner, do you think this will work instead of the massive press you used??? harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-63261.html?_br_psugg_q=bearing+race+and+seal+driver Help! :-) Again, your rat reply is greatly appreciated.

@@jotu173 I used the tool to install the clutch. Im not sure of any way to replace the clutch without the tool. The cap just popped off with a small flathead screwdriver on mine. The bearing driver will not pop out those bearings IMO. They were in there pretty good.

@@AustinCoulson 1.) When you say the tool, you mean the SPECIFIC gates tool that I mentioned before? 2.) Did you replace the clutch in place or take the alternator out to do it? 3.) Did you confirm (100% for sure) that it was the Alt. clutch/pulley BEFORE your replaced it, if so how? 4.) Do you think I could bypass dealing with pressing the bearings altogether and just replace the current OEM tensioner pulley (only) with this gates idler pulley (only) on the existing bracket?? www.gates.com/us/en/ymm/search/part/details?part-number=36173 Thanks again.

The part numbers are in the top pinned comment. There are a few different ones people have said work

@@AustinCoulson thank you much

I am not sure. It took a pretty decent amount of force. If I were in a pinch and didn't have access to a press, the only way I would think it would work is with dry ice and a C clamp. It's the same process but you chill the bearing in dry ice for about 2 hours first, shrinking it, while heating up the pulley in an oven. That is certainly not the preferred method though, and with how expensive the pulley assembly is, and how annoying it is to replace the whole unit, it's still cheaper to buy a cheap press and replace just the bearings.

A press is essentially a machine to impart a large force on something. Back in the day lacking a press, we jacked the back of a truck, placed a short steel rod under the cross member which pressed on a bearing or bush. Then gently let down the jack so that the steel rod pressed on the bearing/or bush. The steel rod must be straight and its ends parallel.Observe safety precautions always.

@@mohabatkhanmalak1161 I have done that in the field as well. Not ideal, but works in a pinch.

Yes, but only push on the outer race, not the inner.

I used a 5mm. You can also use a drill bit

What does the Allen key do and we do u put it? I don't see it a hex

I assume the other 36325 you tried did the same thing? That is quite a mystery. This was filmed on my Father in laws Lexus and he developed a squeal later on at the alternator pulley clutch, and it sounded similar to the tensioner bearing, but unlike your situation the noise didn't go away with wd40, and when you got close it was obvious it was the alternator pulley

@@AustinCoulson Thanks for the feedback.. that is interesting.. You know I was thinking? Maybe these 36325 I am getting have different kind of bearing than the original ones?.. not sure Because I did notice the 36325 is an idler pulley, not the tensioner one, but it does come with double bearing (apparently). So my guesses are: - Maybe this 36325 has some different bearings and that with the tension causes it to make the noise? - Maybe my belt is to old and the tensioner is not putting enough tension? (But it would not make sense why adding W40 to the pulley (bearing area) would make the noise go away unless some of the W40 is falling to the belt) - Maybe the belt is fine but my tensioner mechanism has worn out and is not putting enough tension? I will keep it updated in case it helps anyone

@@AustinCoulson Guess what! it was the belt after all!, I changed it and finally no more noise!. Thanks for the help. I updated the original message in case it helps anyone.

@@rodrigocollao526 interesting. Must have had a little wd40 make its way on the belt to quiet it briefly. Thanks for the heads up!

@@rodrigocollao526 How old was the belt? How many miles on car...I have a 82k miles 14 ES 350 and ive noticed a minor chirping noise it goes away with silicone spray but appears to come back. Weird a belt would be cause of noise our Camry belt lasted nearly 200k+ miles no issues with noise when replaced. I had a Rav4 with this motor and never had any issues with noises like the lexus seems to have.

Doesn't work for me. It can replace the idler pulley, but the tensioner pulley has a different backspacing and the back edge of the gates pulley hits the block.

Did it work?

Did it work?????

Correct. This only applies to the vehicles listed in the description

@@AustinCoulson wow mostly all of the toyota line up but Tacoma =(

@@jonesesente7646 the good news is that I think they sell just the pulley for the Tacoma pretty cheaply

@@AustinCoulson and that comes with the bearing right? and do you think most idler pulley in a car/truck the same size?

@@jonesesente7646 what year and motor is your Tacoma? Do you know where the squealing is coming from?

The squeak at the end ended up being the clutch on the front of the alternator. Had to replace that about a month later

I should have let the video play longer there as someone else mentioned that too. It's been almost a year and the tensioner pulley has been completely quiet. I did have to replace the alternator clutch a few months after the video, and I think that might be the noise there. It was a different noise, little tiny chirps here and there instead of the constant squeal the tensioner puller was making.

So just to confirm, 166030P03 is the same pulley as tensioner pulley? Other two pulley parts# 16604-0P011 / 16604-31020. Am I right?

@@robinkim7711 Well on a Lexus IS 250 like what I have there are only 2 pulleys. Tensioner and idler. The Idler is 166030P03, idler is KOYO DRIVE BELT IDLER PULLEY 1660431020 / 166040P011. eBay has both of these made by KOYO. Email “asianautos” and ask them which pulleys you need for your application 👍🏻

"asianautos" in ebay does not sell japan-made tensioner pulley. It is made from poland

@@hoverzhang2684 Dude I’ve bought about 10 of them personally. He’s sells genuine KOYO which I confirmed via QR scan that KOYO puts on all genuine made in Japan bearings so you are wrong pal. Don’t correct me turd. When you repair half of what I do you can open your mouth.

The secret was peanut butter. Shhh

I did both of them bearings were $40