2010 Lexus RX 350 Tensioner Pulley, Idler and Serpentine Belt Replacement, 120000 mile service 

Nice job!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it helped!

Glad it was helpful, I'm about to start the plugs, brakes, and rotors next. Stay tuned!

Glad I was able to help!

Glad I could help

I love the auto highbeams on my 2010 RX! And I also had the dealer program the back tailgate the same way a long time ago😁

@@eleanormassaro5195 haha, we had auto dimming high beams on a 1981 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz. I have a 2009 Lexus RX350 and I don't think it has auto high beams but I do Love the vehicle. I also have a 2000 RX300 and absolutely Love that vehicle also. 👍👍👍

Ya I tried following that diagram but for whatever reason I couldn't get it.

Much appreciated

Thank you! Cheers!

Thats cool. I ended up returning the Harbor Freight tool and really liked the Gearwrench version better.

Hmm, i'm not sure how they could be different if it's the same engine.

Yeah, it wasn't my favorite job I've done, but I bet it was harder to do from below

I broke my tensioner hole too. :-)

No problem!

All the links are in the video description! Probably Amazon

30ft pounds is what I've read. Glad you are getting something out of it!

Ya it would have been much easier if I was just doing the idler pulley

I am planning to change on my 2009 es350 as well. Did you happen to change the tensioner pulley bearing as well. I am debating if I should get the whole set with the belt and tensioner pulley and 2 idler pulleys or not. Any advices on the tools and techniques you used, Thanks in advance

@Andrew Jack Just did the belt around 80k miles at 108k no issues..was 7 year old belt that wasnt in good shape. I think I did with wheel just turned to the left and can reach tensioner from underneath the car. Wasn't that difficult a job if you take your time and Map belt route well.

@@markg999 Thank you, very kind of you for replying to me, especially so quickly. I was just asking to myself if I can reach to the tensioner with turning the wheel instead of lifting the car and you answered my question. I am assuming you did not change the tensioner pulley which is kind of pricey, around $250. Did you just change the 2 idler pulleys? Did 2 idler pulleys have the same part number? I asked too many question,:) happy easter for you and your family.

@Andrew Jack I didn't change either idler pulley. The belt was causing a tick noise once car was warm and its been away for years with the new belt on.

Oh man that's no fun, you could take it to a muffler shop and have them weld a new shock plate on. Regarding the refrigerant, I almost always use OEM parts because I trust the Denso brand that Toyota uses, however, the HVAC system uses R134A, a standard refrigerant so I don't have any issue using it.

Hi, all the parts I used are in the video description!

It's all good still! I'm glad because there really was no other option that I could find.

Hi, I just double checked and those links are still good and for the correct parts on the 2010 RX350. Whether they fit your minivan I can't say

I put a link in the description!

Ya that could work!

Ya that's what it sounds like

Hi, you can't buy two identical pulleys because the tensioner one is special, you either have to buy the special one I linked to or buy the whole assembly which is harder to replace. If I remember correctly the idler pulley was reverse threaded, and yes the Allen key is to hold the tensioner so you can pull off the idler bolt.

Carolina Cowboys thanks! I understand now. Only thing I think is I need two idler pulleys and one special tensioner pulley. I have hydraulic power steering which I believe requires another idler - hence 2 idlers. The tensioned is reverse threaded due to its need to stay tightened when forcing it counterclockwise. I ordered all the stuff you mentioned. Thanks again.

@@condor5635 good luck with the install!

@@CarolinaCowboys - Job went super well. Replaced both idler pulley’s and the tensioner pulley. I bought the Gearwrench kit as well and found it very nice. One trick I learned on getting the most pull on the tensioner. Get yourself some para cord about 24 inches long. Fold it in half and make a larks head in the middle and put it on the gear wrench neck. With the 14 mm socket installed you can let the wrench fall on its own weight forward towards the headlight. This will allow you to get several clicks at which point you can pull the paracord towards the firewall which will take up a lot of the tension and allow you to then engage the red handled bar to take it all the way giving you plenty of room to install the belt. I also found that that hole it’s totally useless in my experience for tightening the pulley bolt. The reason being once you go through that hole there’s no hole on the engine block the locks it in place. There’s just a gap of an inch before it actually engages with some thing that will hold it in place. I actually broke the little metal hole off when I had a Allen head in the hole when I initially tried to tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. I put Loctite on the bolt anyway so with the strong torque on tensioning and the Loctite it’s very secure. The technique with the para cord makes doing the entire tensioning and reinstalling from the top very easy and straightforward. Although I had another person underneath putting the belt around the crank as the final pulley for completion, I could have tied off the paracord and gotten below and done it myself. Anyway great technique to make this job very easy. Thanks for posting and recommending the gear wrench set

@@condor5635 Nice job! For the record I broke off the little retainer when using the allen key as well. Glad everything worked out and yes that gear wrench was a life saver!

It's working fine, but here's the thing, the OE solution is to replace the entire tensioner pulley assembly which requires you to remove the HVAC compressor. This was the only pulley I could find on the internet that was to the spec that I needed to replace just the pulley itself. Yes it's made in China and I had that same thought on the quality. From the looks of it, it looked like good quality but I will just have to wait and see if it starts making any noise.

@@CarolinaCowboys Thank you for reply me back. Yeah it's really odd design..I definitely avoid remove ac compressor.. I'm just worry about 'China' quality. I just found that other people says 16603-0P030 this can be used for the tensioner pulley, what's your opinion about this?

Nice, I tried so many options already that didn't work

From Amazon, I put all the links in the description

I tried that end ended up breaking something

So far so good, no noises or anything. I was mostly worried about that because it's like the ONLY option outside of replacing the entire assembly, but so far so good.

I replaced the pulleys because I don't want to have to take it apart again to replace them later. They're cheap enough.

Thanks, this is what I have linked in the video description

Yeah I think I may have used the original bolt.

Here you go - amzn.to/30hpQX9 all the links are in my video descriptions

@@CarolinaCowboys thank you for your help really appreciate it 👍

Thanks I've been dealing with the noise for more than a year, thanks for the part number!

It's kindof a habit to wear in the garage :-)

Yeah

Hi, I always put links in my video descriptions!

​@@CarolinaCowboys Thanks guy, your video solved my problem. Thanks. I subscribed and liked the video. Now, I can get my ES350 back on the road.

If you can take off your idler pulley without releasing the tensioner pulley you're belt is probably not tight enough

@@CarolinaCowboys belt is tight but your method is from a backyard mechanic lol 😂 I’m a licensed technician 👩‍🔧 you don’t need no rope

@@mrmercedes-benz2145 What is a "Licensed Technician" ???

@@thooks1234 basically someone with degree to work on cars

I pretend that I do

LOL, it still looked good