The rear rotors have what are called jack bolt holes to help push it off the E-brake assembly, they are the smaller threaded holes. It's a good idea to loosen the cap to the brake fluid reservoir when pushing calipers back in. I personally would have used high temp brake grease on all the metal on metal contact points, especially the pins. If the front rotors are froze on, like mine were, apply heat with a map gas torch around all the lug studs. The expanding metal will loosen the rotor and it'll fall right off. Thanks for taking the time to make this video, I wish I would have documented my swap.
Great tips! Yeah it seemed like the shims on the rear pads actually weren’t metal. They were some kind of squeak resistant soft surface. So far so good on the squeaking. They are dead quiet. But the good thing about the rears is that they are super easy, so I’ll definitely just grease them if they start getting loud. Thanks for the additional tips, I’ll keep them in mind for when I do the 460 front brake swap on the other GX. thanks for watching!
You should steel wire brush the caliper brackets under where the anti rattle clips go. And the pads should move easily in the caliper. If too tight, clean better.
If you are a member of the GXOR Facebook group, look in the Files section. Someone just posted the repair manual. Rears are correct in the video (65 ft-lb) but it has fronts at 91 ft-lbs. I put “around 85 on-ft ish” in the video because I couldn’t get a definitive answer at the time as well. I’ll pin a torque correction at the top here.
