My man Ariel I've noticed lately that you look tired. I hope everything is fine. I think you have lately too much work in your personal life but you still try to make videos to help us without asking anything in return. Thank you Ariel.
I use 120hz and 100hz BFI everyday, always surprised by how often I get to use it, especially now with framegen/lsfg. Thanks for the settings explanations! It's still great stuff. I still hope LG will fix the BFI one day :)
@@Labib-dw1lkfrom experience with RU-vid videos i can tell you sometimes it adds a second in the timer, idk exactly why this is, maybe some way they round the numbers in calculating the length, but it does happen
Im dying here... hahahaha thats the highlight of my day and I'm still laughing after 5 hours. " I dont care" "I'm not here trying to save the planet , I'm here trying to get the best picture quality!" Man :D THX for the laough Plasma
I gotta say friend, you look a little more tired then usual. I hope your personal life is going great ❤️ I have insane respect for you and I just want you to be happy! I personally also look a little more tired then usual, alot of hours sitting in a pitch black room gaming 😂✊
I just wish it had "Dynamic Tone mapping" -- Low, Medium, High.... Even for DV stuff. I want to easily be able to choose how much brightness/APL vs luminance detail I want.
Yeah I think the LG CX/C1 was where it all came together. OLED with HDMI 2.1 and advanced hardware based BFI. I was further holding out for the smaller 42" model so enabled, but it was not to be. (One note, I think the low persistence 60Hz BFI mode was removed already starting with the C1, but of course the glorious low persistence 120Hz mode survived that 2nd year. This can be seen in the graphs on RTINGs. The TV review for 60Hz and the as a monitor review for 120Hz as the C1 appeared to have a firmware bug only allowing BFI Low and Medium for 120Hz at the point of that initial review. And I think I heard something about the C1 introducing a second LUT specific to BFI to help compensate for the loss of brightness.)
Sorry...never mind on the note. I see you've already addressed this in a reply earlier. How the C1 retains advanced hardware BFI, but where it is tuned to a longer persistence in the case of 60Hz. And where subsequent models are limited, presumably, to just inserting an actual black frame, because the hardware to do rolling scan was removed. So only twice the motion clarity possible, because 60Hz is half of the 120Hz native scan rate. Such a terrible shame indeed they removed the advanced BFI hardware. The new Asus 240Hz OLED monitor reintroduces BFI at 120Hz, if in the same primitive way, but facilitated by the higher refresh rate. However, it apparently won't activate with HDR enabled, so what's the point...
Yes, OLED Motion Pro Medium and Low force 120fps scrolling if the resolution is set to 60 or 120, that's why it doesn't work at 60. I believe it is like that by design to work with interpolation at 60fps+60 interpolated frames then 120 total then Medium works
Hi Ariel, so i was testing all day system level calibration games. Why the more peak brightness(clicks) you set in system level calibration the more picture gets darker , I don’t mean in brightness but in black level (kind of). For example: In Spider Man 2 when i set 1000 nits 15 clicks the sky’s clouds are not dark , they have different colour and night scenes are dark but not as dark as in when i set 4000 nits. And i am not talking about clipping highlights, just the picture kind of goes darker 🤷🏼. Also i tested hgig and dtm all day. When i set 1000 nits it looks like hgig but brighter not talking about clipping. When i set 4000 nits the picture is darker in night scenes and i mean black level. Like i don’t know how to explain that but for example there is a lamp and around ( outside the lamp) it gets darker. But it looks good. So the main point is that the more you set in system level calibration the more it gets darker.
I don't know, but I don't believe that has anything to do with the TV. I'll ask Gaming Tech when I have a chance to speak with him because I don't have a PS5
Games don't output any hdr metadata and in that case lg oled tvs assume 4000 nits mdl. So without injecting any metadata (what the hidden menu settings are for) only the 4000 nits mastering peak setting will be relevant for console/ pc-gaming.
What do you think about the new lg oled 480hz, optimum tech made a new video about it. I'm considering it. The matte is supposedly not that bad. Surprisingly for playing tekken (with fps unlock and animation interpolation mod) while leaned back with a controller 32" 1080p might be totally ok. Atm I'm using 1080p on my 4k c1 anyway just for stable fps for bfi. Also another trick is you can use the bfi program to get it to do 240hz + bfi. Hmm. It's really two monitors in one, i wish i could check it IRL.
For those who use only the PC to play I do not use console, which is the Video that has all the adjustments you make to get the best HDR either for Non HDR games and for native HDR games, which your video you tell me to watch that has all the settings together, which is the best, because I'm trying to find this video and I don't find one that shows your NVIDIA control panel settings and also the TV settings to get the best HDR in PC games (currently use an RTX 3080TI).
but don't lose hope G4 will get 5 years of firmware updates maybe they add 120BFI in the future! I haven't tried 120BFI I wish I can try it with G4 because in the past it was advertised on C9 but they removed it at the last moment before the release
I need your help. I am very interested in the smooth gaming experience and image quality. I am playing in a dim dark room, so I don’t care how bright the screen is. I am very confused between buying the C4 or C1. What is your suggestion for me?
C4 will be better but it doesn't have 120bfi, a feature that improves motion clarity at the expense of brightness. 60, 100, and 120fps/Hz looks 2.6x better in motion when using OLED Motion pro high
My recommendation for you is to take your mic out of stereo mode! Lol. Please. Good video, tho. What hardware did they remove? I have been using the C1 for the last two years (48" on my PC) and am just starting to get a slight burn-in. I was thinking of grabbing the C3 or C4 to replace it. I doubt the C4 is worth twice the money as the C3. What do you think? 48" C3 is just under $1000 right now.
I decided to buy a crt again for my retro games and even the switch. My lgc1 is only for 4k gaming and movies. No more sdr content for lgc1. It will last a lot longer.
I think this is somewhat offtopic but experimenting with my LG tv i found that the secret menu max cll and mastering peak change the accuracy based on the tone mapping option for example if you choose 1000 using DTM you try the calibration app and you will clip at 1200 nits but if you try it with DTM off you will clip at around 850 nits and that apply to every number in that menu hahaha i dont know just wanna give my grain of salt to your knowledge it can be my tv or maybe is that way for every LG tv so far i try it on a C2 on a friend home and on my QNED and both clip at the same numbers on the calibration app if you just leave it at auto it never clips so i guess there is indeed something happening
Ariel i am telling you man , i tested for hours 4000 nits and 1000 nits and here is what are my discoveries. When you set 1000 nits for system level calibration games, you really get brighter highlights (i tested in ratchet and clank and spider man 2) but i can really tell the difference between night scenes when i set more then 1000nits or 4000 nits. I think Black levels are better when you set more then 1000 nits or 4000, the picture is more saturated because the black level is good i can really tell that , i tested in many scenes. When you set 1000 nits highlights are brighter but the picture is like washed out, or is not as good as when you set 4000 nits. It is really visible and i think its because when you set 4000 nits the DTM's processing is better, it knows where to do what if you know what i mean. You set a lower peak brightness it loses that processing power like. I discovered that maybe you can set not 1000 nits but maybe 2000 nits or 3000 nits just to go maximum to the tv’s actual peak brightness without losing saturation and importantly black level-shadow detail but i need to test 2000 nits and 3000 nits. This is just my discovery, hope i gave you something new. You can really tell difference in nigh scenes especially in spider man game that has very good night hdr.
I believe that's the PS5 system level calibration, making the difference and not the TVs calibration or processing. I don't see any difference on the PC. I'm going to ask Gaming Tech when I have a chance to speak with him again
@@plasmatvforgaming9648 Thank you man, also did you make Iphone balance calibration settings? I am waiting since December 😂. I don’t want to sound cheeky. U know my English is not so good.💪🏻😄
Hgig compatible games like ratched& clank will always adjust their peak brightness to the system level calibration.(at least by default) and therefore might not be really suitable for dtm. I don't know whether dtm adjusts the peak brightness only scene by scene or is also presuming a max peak brightness of 4000 nits. Games don't output any metadata and in that case lg oled tvs assume a peak brightness of 4000 nits (outside of hgig mode aka hardclip mode) with dtm:off (which equals static tonemapping:on). But I'm not sure about dtm:on
Hey man , what is the your recommendation for my lg c2 color settings do you recommend me to go if i want to get more vivid picture? What is the balance to not get clipping and to get more vibrant picture?
With HDR, the TV is already clipping the color red with Color depth 50, you can't increase it pass 57 without clipping the red a lot but if the game looks washed-out (black level raised) you can lower the black level and get a more vibrant picture
I sincerely dont see the reasoning on the quest for more brightness. When its too dark and dull sure that sucks but what are people thinking with 1000-4000 nits brightness ? I was playing overwatch 2 on rialto and it physically hurt my eyes to look at certain parts of the map and thats just on a lowly lg27gr95e oled. My c1 hits way brighter scenes and again it hurts to look at. I can't fathom wanting to look at 4 to 8 times brighter screens.
Sir the HDMI signal setting is different from wat the G4 and the C4 bring to the new menu setting. It will work more different from wen u press 1113111. That menu is for HDMI signal. This new menu build inside the picture menu. Without pressing 1113111. Ok
Interesting, i have noticed today that when i set 4000 nits for system level calibration the highlights pop they are bright, without clipping. When i set 1000 nits, i tested 15 clicks and 16 clicks and the highlights are dull, they don’t have like HDR effect. I changed black level to 48 ftda-5. Looks actually very, very nice but i wanted to ask you for your opinion and the reason behind it.
If you're using Tone mapping OFF, 1000 Nits Maxcll (I don't remember how many clicks on the PS5) Mastering Peak Maxcll 1000 will have less compression and should pop more. 4000 should be more dull because the roll off is earlier. If you're using Dynamic tone mapping the difference should be barely noticeable
Why are modern OLED display manufacturers ignoring BFI?🤔 Closest thing these monitors can get to CRT quality motion and majority are silent not a damn word about BFI.
My full time monitor was an FW900 until last year. The CX/C1 finally gave me someplace else to go. As to why the rolling scan hardware was removed, LG said they were concentrating on other aspects, which I presume is not unrelated in that they had a new competitor in Samsung, who was campaigning on brightness as opposed to LG's traditional marketing based on black. I love their rolling scan BFI and have it on for everything including office work. Even scrolling pages of text benefit. I think its removal is terrible. And dearly hope they will bring it back.
you dont need a professional software to adjust the rolloff points. use device control and a pq template. for windows you can set the roll offs all to 100. just use hdr calibration windows app. than windows knows the max nits of the tv. now autohdr and rtx hdr works perfectly. or you can adjust the hdr intensity in game to max out the nits without clipping. its better than hgig.
What do you think about expensive "upscalers" market for retro consoles?. Nobody of reviewers it talking that this "upscalers" will not fix motion blury 60hz sample nad hold :) screen.
It is possible on the C3/G3 using the Colorcontrol app. I guess the Colorcontrol app will be updated if needed to access the real service menu on the C4/G4 to turn off TPC and GSR
Hello. I bought titan army hdr 1000 monitor. I want to ask you is gaming on hdr 1000 with panel set to min max luminance can be harmfull to eyes? What is your opinion?
Blue lights are nasty for our eyes, but we need some of it to get a good picture. I'd recommend you to use the monito settings or reshade to reduce the blue lights a little bit until it feels better. You also have to reduce green a little bit along with blue to keep a white balance that still looks good
I'd say Hisense, but I'm not sure about the input lag when using the dimming zones. Probably, the Game mode has the terrible native contrast of the LCD panel
I watch on pc 4K HDR movies on my C1 screen using program POWERDVD ultra and DVD Fab ultra , the maximum brightness of the Nits reaches only 350. Reverse HDR Demo clips, get maximum brightness I tried all the tune mapping options, same result The brightness reaches maximum when subtitles appear Do you have any suggestions? Is the problem related to the movies? Or program players , or what?
My Sony Bravia died after just 2yrs & is UNREPAIRABLE! So absurd. After being a huge Sony fan for 30yrs, they disgust me now. Absolutely unacceptable to make a disposable TV that costs 2 grand.
The thing is that LG removed BFI at the same time SAMSUNG and SONY did. Probably Panasonic as well or did not have it anytime. Is a shame that there are no panasonic or philips oleds reviews on rtings or any site that scores and compares as rtings do. I could not spend so much money to blind buy
If you're referring to displays all using the same panels, it was the supplier, LG Display, who apparently removed the hardware to do rolling scan BFI. So all were affected. Without that you are left with just being able to literally insert black frames and as such are limited by the panel's refresh rate. (In other words, you can't do subrefresh persistence like LCDs can do, because they have a backlight that can be adjusted. Or that the CX/C1 can do, because it has that additional hardware to do BFI with a rolling scan approach that can also act with subrefresh rate persistence.)
@@RandomUnassignedYTHandle really? Same panel even when LG uses WOLED and Sony and Samsung QD OLED? I could not imagine, guess it is the truth I did not see any ghosting in quest 3 lcd panel. I wonder why all tvs are not as quest 3 lcd. Althought quest 3 does not support HDR
@user-pw5dj6ju5c...After a false start in 2019, where the technology was demoed, but did not end up being released, LG introduced rolling scan BFI in the 2020 models (at least the CX and GX). This feature survived in the 2021 models (at least the C1 and G1). However, to many's shock including my own, this advanced hardware BFI was dropped in the 2022 models. And not just in LG's own OLED TVs, but in all OLED TVs, where LG Display supplied the panels, such as Sony's. Samsung has not introduced a refresh independent technology in their OLED panels to my knowledge. The new ASUS 240Hz QD OLED monitor does reintroduce 120Hz BFI. However, this is through inserting actual black frames for half of that 240Hz refresh not additional hardware that would allows a subrefresh level of persistence. And HDR is apparently disabled when BFI is engaged on this ASUS. Unfortunately. (I really want to run all games with RTX HDR for example at this point I think...) EDIT: Regarding the Quest 3 I believe it also employs BFI. With clarity in motion being even more critical in VR. Think I heard it helps to avoid nausea. I certainly agree that advanced BFI should be available on TVs and monitors as well. I doubt it adds that much cost to each unit. And LG's already done the development work. It should be there as an option for those of us who love it. (And are just trying to get back to something closer to the motion clarity that was taken for granted when CRT's dominated.)
The C4s dolby vision pc setting is useless in win11. There are no games for it and even hdr games arenn't even setup properly. DVPC is useless on the C4 for win11 gaming. Stick with HDR.
