As a master Trane residential and light commercial technician that was a great demonstration. However you should use a vacuum pump for any refrigerant repair and use a micron gauge to verify you’re pulling a deep enough vacuum . You went to be at 500 microns or below . If not you’re not pulling out all of the moisture and contaminants. This applies to any refrigeration repair from small appliance all the way up to industrial.
I always solder that access valve out of the fridge. With no wires. Once I do it I put compressor in install the rest. You could do electrical out side after that. Good video. By the way.
I found out today my compressor on my LG unit is bad. Garret A's comments here are issues I also found today, and convinced me that you can't fight poor design with a replacement. good video though. when I figured that I spend 20K in the same 6 year timeframe for gas and electricity for my car and house, it eased the bruise a lot of spending 1500 ish on a new fridge! Whirlpool KitchenAid I read is more reliable. need to research. still a shame that something that still looks new is headed to the junkyard. so many of these new ultra efficiency gadgets ... cars included ... have run into issues because new designs have not been vetted. that just delays delivery of new models. it is becoming more common I think.
So the connection coming from the condenser coul to the compressor is steel? I'm about to replace mine and was under the impression it was aluminum. If not aluminum, but steel, what brazing rod should I use... 15%? I'm a commercial/residential HVAC TECH so I'm confident I can make the repair, just wasn't sure about type of metal on condenser and what type of rod to use.
Also I found out this past week that LG covers the compressor now for 10years. To get them to come out has been like pulling teeth. The repair has been rescheduled 4 times now… ugh
I'm just finding out as well. Found out via my home warranty. Home warranty didn't want to service my fridge, only wanting to issue me a semi-buy out. The buy-out must be used for repair or replacement with an paid invoice prior to them issuing the buy-out. All because the repair guys acted too quickly saying, "needs compressor. Replacement recommended." My fridge is only 6 years YOUNG, way too young for a landfill! The cost of the fridge doesn't match the "1 year factory warranty for parts and labor." Just an observation vs an complaint. I recently purchased one of these Hoover ONEPWR Cordless Handheld Vacuum cleaner and I was so surprised when they said it included 3 full years of factory warranty. We once owned a standard French door fridge from 2001 and the most maintenance we ever had to do for it was purchase a light bulb 💡. It would not stop working 😑 for anything. Thought if it did, *then* we'd put the ole gal down and accept the buy-out check & use towards another fridge. She, was in it to win it!😆😆😆 Best of luck with your appointment Nancy.
You did not show clearly on how to purge the replaced compressor of air into a vacuum state. Did you just connect two pressure gauges - one to the service valve and another to the high-side service valve at the filter - and let the compressor run? For how long did you do that? Or what should be the gauge readings on both ends before you stop? Should you release the air from the high-side valve somehow and when do you do that? How many times should you repeat this process?
I have question. I've done 2 dual evap compressor replacement. And I'm always getting negative readings when freon installed. Like it's showing vacuumed reading, but I've learned that's blocked sealed system. This only on 3 valve dual evaporator. Can give me some advice
Well...it looks like my not giving up on the First-Time-Ever Refrigerator Repair is paying off Dividends in the form of a Repaired Unit! Freezer Temp started at +69 degrees...it is now +23 degrees. There were 3 issues that I encountered after getting the Compressor and Filter/Dryer Welded In: 1.) The Compressor would not Run. Turns out, the Male Pins on the Compressor itself are 180 degrees from the Old to the New. Fix...Rotate the Female Plug so that the two Power Pins engage leaving one unused Male Pin floating in mid air. Hoakey...yeah but it works. I'll call Sears Parts Direct & see if they have a proper Harness. 2.) One of my Welds at the Compressor/Condenser Joint let go after 24 hours. Fix...Reweld Joint and this time use a Mirror to Inspect the backside of the Weld. 3.) System would not come up out of Vacuum all the way with R134A Refrigerant installed thus unit would not get Cold. Fix...Cut Capillary Tube at Filter/Dryer and Inspect. Found Silver Solder Wicked up to end of Capillary Tube and Welded off Opening. Unweld joint and Reweld with Capillary Tube further into Filter/Dryer...not too far though. Pulled a Vacuum yesterday and let it set overnight...no Leaks. Charge the System with Refrigerant.
My compressor has q black sticky like pad on top and on the back side. They melted eventually in the original compressor after some time and melted right away after I changed it. Is this normal? What are those black pads? Sound/vibration dampers?
thanks for that great video! Just curious. Do you remove schrader valves to charge and use the Vacuum Charging/Core Tools (faster vacuum)? Do you use a different braze rod for copper/copper (15% silv) and copper/steel (45% silv) (weak steel joint)? Do you run low flow of nitrogen while brazing (putting scale into system) ? I assume you vacuumed the system, right (moisture makes acid that will damage compressor copper winding insulation)? Do you use a micron gauge (verify moisture removal)? I have an "American Beauty" resistance brazing unit that I absolutely love (no flames - and no nitro required) but it really needs a 20 amp circuit and you can't heat for longer than about 8-10 seconds without blowing a breaker and the whole setup gets quite hot. I usually put the wiring on while it is pulling a vacuum (and update software + compressor clips) , but I like your idea of putting the wiring on while the compressor is out of the unit, yea much better. One of the issues I run into is the condenser has no slack, so I heat the joint and pull it out. I also braze the LOW side and charging stub with the compressor out of the unit. Also, what is the part number of that filter/drier if you don't mind?
I do 3 a day and 5 other appliances for Sears A&e And I can’t believe you don’t have heat shieldes. Or tap the system and check pressure Sri make sure evap or condenser not restricted other then that you did it right but you’re melting plastic. I also would recommend oxygen/acetylene. Much faster and less issues with melting. I guarantee you will melt a fan blade or plastic or wires. Wow. Other then that you got it
Our fridge is still cooling but its not cooling itself anymore and getting very hot. does that mean it needs to be replaced or is there something that can be done? The fan is working so not sure what the failure is
Never in my experience as a union 17 yr medical gas installer have I used any type of Flux when brazing... Flux is for soldering. Brazing is a much higher temperature. Tell me why you did?
Let me thank you for doing this video. The compressor is the same as mine, which is still working but is not cooling the inside. I called someone, and he carried out some tests showing that the compressor was bad. After he left, I thought that he took the start-up relay with him…lol…. But after looking at your video, I realized that the “relay and overload kit” is more simple than what others look like (I’ve put a like to this below). Based upon your video, I’m planning to try this repair myself, and even if it is not successful, I’ll always be indebted to you for making this video. I wish there could have been a better compressor than this one. Many buyers are complaining about it. Oh! I came across some one saying that the compressor (TCA35911910) is a better replacement for this compressor. Would you be able to help me find out if this is true?...Thank you! Lastly, I wished you had included a link to all the tools, etc. that you have used in this video….I guess I’ll have to do some more research to see what would be suitable. A question: - Can I use the torch from the link below?..... I’m a little short on cash, and presently can’t afford the one used in this presentation. Oh! Can you tell me what solder you used? Let me thank you once again for such and excellent and informative presentation. Relay and overload kit: www.midwestapplianceparts.com/ebg60663230-l-g-p-l-g-relay-and-overload-kit Bernzomatic TS4000 Trigger Start Torch www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4SMNMK4GNRX00H3X6SN9
Jameel.........How did things turn out with your LG Fridge repair. I have the same issue, with the same Compressor model. I'm also doing research to collect all the tools that I will need.
Griff, I bought the compressor after doing a lot of research on it. Yet the "three pins" connection turned out to be different from my compressor pins. (I think in the newer models, they were changed. So only an experienced technician might have been able to still connect them)....I can't remember how they were ....whether mine had two pins at the top and theirs were the opposite....Anyway, I didn't want to go down that road.......Some technicians are really unreasonable, and I might have to pay far more than I bargained for....Also, the number of tools/materials I had to buy to get the work done was not worth it....So the whole project was unsuccessful in the end, I had to discard it and buy another from PC Richards.......The money I wasted might have been used to pay 1/2 of the price for the new one. I regretted wasting so much money....So I advise you to be very careful....Unless you have a close person who has some experience in this field, I wouldn't advise you to do it.....Anyway, Not me and LG again.....Hope this helps!
@@jameelghanniaiman2273 Jameel, thanks for responding. Well, I thought about buying a new Fridge (Whirlpool or KitchenAid), but I think I'm too far down the rabbit hole to turn around. I purchased (2) new Compressors, a FLB075LANA and a FLS075LANA. The FLS is suppose to the " FIX " for the FLB and FLA, but to use it, you will have to also buy programming module to reprogram your circuit board. As soon as you mentioned pin configuration on the Compressor, I rushed to go and check my new ones. The FLB is the same as my original, and the FLS has the opposite, (2) on bottom and (1) on the top. I will install the FLB and hopefully get at least another 5 years out of it. I'm still doing some more research on how to do refrigerant recovery, soldering and brazing techniques, and charging the system with new R134a refrigerant. Thanks man !!!
@@griffmustard I am on the same path but a few steps ahead of you. So here are some tips from what I have learnt. a. The FLS075LANA is an improved compressor and supposedly not have the same reliability issue faced by older designs. b. You need to update the software on main board using the update tool OR you can purchase a new control board that can come with already updated software for use with FLS075LANA c. You will need to rotate the connector when mounting on the FLS075LANA. It comes with a new cover to install the thermal relay and rotated connector. Since you say you purchased FLS075LANA, have you looked into your box? It should have the new plastic cover with detailed instructions on how to reorient the connector and relay. Mine has it.
When I do automotive AC I flush the system out due to contaminants from the failed compressor then vacuum the system to check for leaks..? Is that not the case with refrigerators??
@@stephenglass7202 either that or your control board has to be reset with a special tool. When you call LG, they’ll tell you that only the compressor is under warranty and it won’t come with a control board (or that was my case) but the control board automatically came with the new compressor. I hope this helps!
Nice, No flashing new software upgrade? or did you change the board? Not sure if this is the newer replacement on that replaces like 6 different bad compressors that LG had, as the Newer Compressor requires software upgrade and or Board Replacement. Good stuff, Thanks for sharing.
@@olegg8444 So you put in the same original compressor that is known to fail eventually and is being replaced with another model that doesn't fail like the original one? That makes not sense to put in the same lemon compressor. From what I understand when you put in the new compressor you have to do the update because it is a different version of the same compressor without the failing issues.
@@ELEVOPR you are correct, for some reason in this video he replaced a bad compressor with the same compressor and not upgraded one. thus he doesnt need to update the board. when we replace the upgraded universal compressor we have to update the board for it to work properly, if the fridge is 2014 and older we have to replace the board itself, because the update jig won't be able to update those boards
Great video... I try to do my own simple repairs, I ain't doing this... Lol. I can fix washers and dryers, but I'm gonna pay for this! What's the cost range for this repair? Anybody? Thank you!!
@@pepelestat 5 yrs for parts and labor. The compressor went bad in 5 yrs 2 mths... but parts were covered for 10 yrs.. paid $480 for labor... but you're right, it would have been about $900!! Thank you
Just fixed a Freon leak on one of these tonight.. you’re saying that condenser is steel but that really seems to be made of aluminum to me.. what solder u using ? I used 45% silver and it was a total PINA
Carlos Graft someone had replaced the Lg problem compressor with a regular compressor the leak was where the “aluminum “ line met the copper. I had to lay the fridge on it’s side to finally get the bottom of the line sealed up. That 45% didn’t want to get in like doing regular copper brazing
Carlos Graft man I fluxed the hell out of it. Even tried the rod with the flux on it. I did eventually get it but it wasn’t easy at all. Took a few hours
So I read about the LG lawsuit and basically it stated the issues were due to the piping corroding and getting pin holes ultimately causing a compressor failure. This was back in 2014 and the lawsuit was for post 2014 because they continued to have the same issues. My question is this still going on currently 8 years later or have the resolved the issue with updated parts? How much would this cost to fix and how common is this problem? My wife wants one but I’m aware of the issue so I just dont know if this is something that might happen several years later or is it a frequent repeated failure.
They haven't fixed the problem it's still there, mine is only 3 months old and the technician came today and said that the compressor has failed, after waiting for 10 days since it stopped working.
@@leandradhanasar1225 wow that sucks. You’d think after all these years and all the money they lost they would just use a different style compressor at this point.
How many compressors are they supplying within the 10 year time frame? This will be the first. However, this in-house warranty has caused interference with my home warranty. I called my home warranty who's policy is to repair, replace or buy-out. Well, once they found out about the compressor or "free compressor", they no longer wanted to help me. Even though I already paid the $75 service call fee. I ended up having to deal with LG directly. They're sending someone out this coming week. It just sucks that I lost an entire month's worth of food. I'm disabled and my husband died so my funds aren't set to *make it rain* Especially when I have a home warranty for situations such as this. I've cried so much outta frustration my head just hurts!
Joe...just Replaced the Compressor in the Kenmore Elite Refrigerator myself. It has the FC75LANE Compressor which lasted 9 years...purchased New from Sears. After I bought a New Compressor from Sears Parts Direct I found out these Compressors have a 10 Year Warranty on them. Sears WILL NOT Honor that Warranty unless they do the Repair themselves! Therefore, a Compressor that has a year to go on it's Warranty cost me $400 for a Replacement!! Sears WOULD NOT give me a Quote unless I have them $100 upfront for a Serviceman to come to the house first!!! I had no way to do any sort of Comparison Shopping!!!! Grrrrr! My Question to you is: How Long did the Job take you Start to Finish? Any idea what Sears Charges to do a Compressor Change-Out?
sears did the same to me they wanted $520 for labor an compressor was free they said minus the 125 dollars i paid for service call sears also told me they would give me a service plan for 600 dollars for one year what a rip off this is my third compressor refrigerator is only three an a half years old. sears replaced last compressor when it was under service plan it lasted 13 months an it took them three months to install it insane this time i got compressor on on ebay for 181 dollars installed it myself it been good for 2 months now. i practiced brazing for two weeks before i installed it also 90% percent of the failures with this compressor are mechanical
Hello... So, what did the class action lawsuit pay for? Sears charged me $617.00 for the control board and the installation? Why should we pay for a service plan and Sears knows it would fail again? All fridges use the same compressor that it's made by LG.
Everything looked awesome until you didn't use a vacuum pump. I kind of lost you there. Still, good vid overall. And I like that Goss Torch; I'm going to have to check that out.
I have a $3000 LG refrigerator. It failed the within the first three months. After getting railroaded from LG, they finally agreed to replace it. Four years later, the ice machine failed. Now 6 years later, the compressor failed. The refrig is a POS.
Lawyers wrote that. Yes you can braze the equipment that operates on R600a - I do it all the time. Get all that butane out with nitrogen purge then braze all you want. Once done and proven LEAK-FREE, vacuum and charge as normal. And I say that as a tech with about $10,000 worth lokring equipment, I hardly use it.
If LG sends a teck to replace under warranty...You get Swagelok fittings, no silver soldering...No vaccum pulled to evacuate air/moisture, and you get no service ports for future work...ask me how i know...the guy/tech just left my house semi-installing a new Compressor. Personal opinion, a crap job on a crap appliance...
Mine just died. After watching this video, this is not a homeowner handyman DIY project. Buy new refrigerator since this LG compressor will malfunction again in three years.
Great vid . A common misdiagnoses is the standard answer ' bad compressor' they should always check the ' run capacitor ' first if this 10 buck part is bad the compressor relay will click but it won't start and doesn't know which way to run. Check my channel for what looks like. Hope it helps
So lg tells me that the parts are covered but that I’ll have to pay $400-$1000 for labor. Is that valid? Like, why should I have to pay anything for a defective product? I can’t even DIY this. I hate life. I hate LG.
thanks for this post (and great comments below). We have kenmore elite bottom freezer (LG OEM). The compressor failure appears to be result of couple things -- bad internal valve design AND pin holes in condenser coils. Based on what I've researched, replacing only the compressor will not solve the underlying pin-hole issue and you'll revisit failure in near future. How does one replace the top condenser coil? search "kenmore-refrigerators-refuse-recall-despite-defect-class-action-lawsuit" ///// highlight The filing elaborates how defective compressors cause the Kenmore refrigerators to break down. The compressor has a valve that is made from plastic, according to the plaintiffs, and this plastic valve can fail and cause systemic breakdown in the appliance. They further explain the Kenmore refrigerators also house an evaporator that holds tubing that develops air leaks from pinholes. These leaks “generate excess pressure that stresses the compressor” which in turn contaminates the lubricant in the compressor and “infects the entire sealed system.” ///
