I have an LG DLE3500 5 years old, electric front loading that stopped working, took it apart, cleaned all the lint out completely, tested all thermostat fuses and found the blower fuse tripped. Also tested Ohms resistance for all connectors on heater box ( approx 20/40/20, also checked that nothing was grounded to the heater box. Also tested Ohms per room temp for the thermistor in the blower housing and resistance on the moisture sensor. With new Blower housing thermistor and thermostat fuse worked well with two loads and over heated/ blew blower fuse ( showing continuity when tested) Replaced and dryer started right up.... placed a thermasat outside house into the venting escape ( 1 foot from dyer, 4 inch hard pipe) it reads starting at 78 then climbs as drying to 140... it added time, clothes not quite dry, then clothes became over dry, temp outside exhaust over 170 so I turned it off thinking it was going to blow a fuse again..... time left 15 min on sensor dry..... any tips?
I wish I had the time to go through this entire flow chart. I change the thermistor a few months ago when my 2009 LG wasn't heating well. It was succesful, but now something else has crap the bed. Time to just get a new one.
Blew another thermostat fuse in the blower housing after two loads with new parts, try number 2..... I rechecked everything and all checked out as described, also no short in the heating housing, so I installed another thermostat fuse in the blower housing with your new parts....... Also replaced a thinner sliding rectangle dryer vent with hard 4-inch dryer venting. There was no lint blockage but I thought that was the only area possibly not allowing proper venting..... That system had worked the way it was for 6 years....... The intial issue I thought was the lint blockage below the lint trap.... cleaned the entire venting piping/system before first time repacing heat fuse..... now on third try..... Anyway to test the mother board if this blows again?
Hi Ben, I got a LG 3601v dryer, we installed it and worked for the first load, we put a second load and it didn't heat at all, I returned it to the store and they gave me another one, to my surprised the exact same thing happen, first load worked perfect, I put a second load and didn't heat at all. Have you seen this problem in a dryer?
Thnxs to this video.. my LG dryer wont give any heat and all my reading are all normal. But still I decided to replace with new element assy and thermistor still no heat.. i did reset by pulling the plug on wall and cb on electric panel plus open and close with my dryer and it works as normal
Hey Ben! Not sure if/when you do Q&As, but what are your thoughts on schools like Master Samurai Tech or Fred's Appliance? Can't thank you enough for your videos.
I haven't taken either so I can't comment. But given how lucrative appliance repair is, its a small cost for an upgrade in your understanding of how appliances work. I've taken a few of the Samurai prep courses to see how I'd do. I pass, but barely. They focus a LOT of schematics which is good, because so many techs loathe schematics and they can help on the hard jobs.
Hi Ben, Thanks for this excellent video. The problem I am having is that my dryer , Dlgx8101v, will not stop turning unless the plug is remved. There is a message saying to "Check filter", which goes away wnen I start a program and the dryer starts working. It just refuses to stop even thought the cycole is complete. How can I reset this loogic or what else can I do short of calling for help? Thanks in advance, Alan
To all the power tool snobs who insist one must spend hundreds to thousands of dollars on Milwaukee, Dewalt or Makita stuff to be considered a professional: Ben is running a successful appliance business using tools he bought at Wal-Mart. One of your expensive drills would not get this dryer disassembled any faster than Ben's HyperTough model that costs just $30. I have the same one and have opened and closed hundreds of computer cases with it.
Appliance repair is not very intense in regards to tools, so much, much easier to do this on the cheap specials.. We've never really destroyed a drill gun on an appliance. Can't say that on drywall or carpentry projects however.
Hi Ben! Thanks for the great content. I've replaced both of the sensors/fuses on my LG dryer heating element a couple of times. One or the other has gone out again. This is over just a few months period I have continuity on the heating element and have cleaned and checked for blockages. Any suggestions?
@Bens Appliances and Junk well I took apart the centrifugal switch because it felt pretty sticky. I cleaned it up and sprayed it with electronics cleaner. It felt a lot better after that. Still had to replace the burnt fuse, of course. It's working for now. We'll see how long it lasts. Thanks again!
@@stephenhall3647 Glad to hear that may of been it! The centrifugal switch issue is probably one of the most oddball, difficult situations to troubleshoot and resolve, but it definitely sounds like that was the problem. Over time, that contact can get hot and fuse together. When that happens, it'll provide the heater a 120v leg of constant electricity, causing the unit to run and run and run when in operaton, so the thermostat never kicks off (the centrifugal switch is responsible for the leg that goes through the other leg to the heater, not the one w/ the thermostat).
For those wondering, the switch is easily removed and disassembled on my LG dryer model DLE2250W, but you can't buy a new one. You have to buy the whole motor assembly.
Hi Ben, I know this is not related to the vid but I have a maytag top load washer mvwc565fwo that no longer agitates right. Fooled the machine into thinkin the lid is closed, on observation it tries to agitate both directions slightly but mainly just motor hum and the basket moves slightly along with the agitator. F7 E6 error code has been cleared and hasn't returned. (Spin works fine) Any ideas? I hope its not the transmission. (I haven't looked underneath yet as I'm still self educating) Also, as long as I've owned it (one yr), it spins fine except at the end of cycle as the basket is near stopped the moter makes a whine and then a slap slap slap slap slap before stopping. Is this normal? Machine is 6 yrs old. bought it used a year ago. Thank you! 🤠👍
My lg dlex3370w drum turns, blower runs, but no heat. However, the continuity in the hi limit thermostat and thermal cut off are both good and have ohms reading of 0.0. The resistance reading for the heating elements are: Red and Blue: 19.9 ohms Red and Yellow: 19.5 ohms Blue and Yellow: 38.8-39.9 ohms Open lines from the leads and heating can so no short there. Blower fan thermistor: 9.11k ohms (originally typed 0.0 ohms) Blower housing fuse: 0.0 ohms These codes are showing when I place it into diagnostics mode: 18:88, L18, U04, d04. Do these indicate any issue? Neither thermistor increases in temp, and in diagnostic mode it shows they’ll sit between 27-28C I was hoping for an easy fix. But yeah idk what’s going on.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thanks for the response! Ahh Sorry I mistyped earlier. I meant 9.11k Ohms. I wonder if it has to do with a relay. When I start it from cold and run the heater portion in diagnostic mode it seems to go from 23C to 26-28C, but not sure if it's radiant heat from something else. All the relays seem to click so not sure what's going on.
No heat in my dryer. Changed out the elements, fuses, thermostats, etc., still nothing. Didn't think to check the power supply. No continuity on red wire (right). So now I know the problem, but can't find a solution for it. Any advice?
Hey ..I got a samsung dv42h5200ep/a3 dryer not heating . Got it from someone .I replaced the fuse because it was bad wen i test with the multi meter it was bad. I connected the wires. Blue top red bottom. Blue top black bottom. Blue bottom black top ..I can't test it because the store room I have don't have 220 plug. Someone want to buy it .but I don't kno it the wires were connected right ?
Just make sure you have two incoming lines to the heating element - should be white or black at rear from the main trunk, then a red or black one on the element. The rest chain together, so it goes from fuse to thermostat to element (so there's an interruption if any sensor fails), and you should be OK
@@bensappliancesandjunk mine is red and blue and black ..so I put red up top on the element lead. Blue bottom..then blue top on one the thermostat lead black bottom.. then blue top on the fuse and black bottom.. I hope it's right because that's how u saw it wen I get it foem rhe person who said it wasn't heating. Buy I can't test it because I don't have 220 in the storage I have or on before selling it
