Lights, Camera, Action! 

Thanks Daniel!

yeah. i only found out recently. Based on my research, larger specimens may start munching on hermit crabs and shrimps (and in a few instances, corals) but typically not if well fed. so the trick is to feed them well so they don't go munching... we will see!

thanks Sunny!

Thank you!. cheers!

Sps soon! :)

Nice, thanks Phil

Thanks Fletcher!

Thanks! And what do you do with the power cables ?

@@TheBioReef I use a wire looms in white to combine all power wires together

Thanks Jules

@@TheBioReef I am at an earlier stage than you. I have just put water into my waterbox frag tank. I am deliberating if to leave it for a couple of months until the end of the ugly phase or transfer livestock straight away. Like you I run higher nutrients, so your point made about a nutrient differential has given me pause for thought.

@@jules2545 hi Jules. My rock was soaked in rodi for about a month and was then added to saltwater for another two month. It was then added to my empty display with the sand. I filled up the display and let the rock and sand and newly mixed saltwater acclimate at room temp for a week with a small circulation pump in the display for oxygenation. I then filled up the sump and added the return pump and let the water cycle from display to sump for another week. Ammonia was zero in the display during this whole journey. I finally heated the tank to 78f last week when I added the new fish and started feeding, lights at 10%. Today nitrates we’re at 2.5 ppm and phosphates at 0.05… pretty close to the display so I think I can add corals as early as next week after my new tang finisher Qt. I am sure I will get an ugly phase but hopefully with the influx of bacteria and coralline from my old system, the ugly phase will be short lived. We will see!

It’s a sleek look and the side views are lovely

@@TheBioReef I know it's prob going to be hard to tell until you get corals in there, but how do you actually like the flow pattern with all 4 on the back wall?

@@y4ngel yeah will wait to see how the corals like it but based on seeing particles of food floating around when I feed the fish, I think the current setup give a good flow pattern without obvious dead spots. I think it will be good and I can always mess around with the programming to increase flow in areas that need it. We will see!

Thanks for The tip Tyler. Yeah I was really interested in them, but was concerned about their smallish par output. Ultimately - I went with the ai fuge and I got little 3d printed flaps from vca that allow you to direct the light to avoid spillover. I am going to try to have the fuge be my main nutrient export so I wanted to make sure I have the par to get this done. The tunze are really cool though and if I find that I can’t manage the spill over, the I can certainly switch out the ai fuge for them. Thanks again for all the helpful tips

Interesting. I PAR tested my single Tunze 6500k submerged just under the water and it is getting about 350 par a few inches under the light and 150-200 par at the bottom of the fuge. That being said, I know some people run two of them. The single light grows my Gracilaria Hayi like crazy.

@@tylerjaax4917 yeah BRS recently tested 11 fuge light. They didn’t do the purple tunze but they did the 10k Tunze’. They found the tunze delivers ~150 par mounted 8” above water - odd distance as I would want to put them at the water surfaces. Anyways, the ai fuge give about 680 par at the water surface when mounted 8”. In the end, I though that I could either go with multiple tunze lights or one ai fuge, so I went with a single ai fuge so I don’t have to worry about using up two electrical outlets. But the tunze lights had a lot of properties that I liked. We will see how the ai fuge does!

Yeah, the par increase when it is just under the water is significant and it really eliminates light bleed. I don’t really think the Tunze LEDs are great to mount out of water.

Great minds think alike :) Thanks Arrick

Yikes… good to know. I didn’t come upon that in my research. Will watch Frank closely when the wrasses go in. The good part is that he eats out of my hand already so will be able to catch easily if he becomes a bully

He was cool with existing fish and seemed very peaceful but really targeted fairy wrasses added after. In particular my Ruby Longfin and Pintail. Killed the Ruby Longfin. But every fish is different. Acclimation box recommended. 😊

@@tylerjaax4917 good to know. I always use an acclimatio box with new additions, so hopefully this will help. Also all the existing fish in the Reefer 250 will be added in at once which should hopefully help in terms of No signaling any fish out

Yeah I am really tempted by this idea. Was actually thinking of just running the fuge on its own to see how things will fair.

@@TheBioReef Ty it man, and if the system is not running as good as you like there is always time to put the skimmer back. As you have said, having a nice refugium instead of a skimmer is a better choice in my opinion and you should see a better coloration, healthier corals and better polyp extension.

Yep - will go with the Redsea DIY kits

Octo Aquatics lid quality would be recommended by me if you want that additional polish and great features like a hinged offset diagonal feed door. The additional $$ was worth it on my build. 😊

will check them out, thanks for the tip Tyler!