+Shadon HKW Thanks Stan. The setting tool may have been eclipsed by an idea from Paul Compton with the micrometer head....have to get at that one soon. :-)
+Ken Wolfe Thanks Ken...in full disclosure though I saw the idea while researching commercial boring units. I had planned to just buy a unit at first but could not find one with small enough capacity for the mini-tractors so decided to make one. :-)
pretty dang cool there colin very good idea with the line boring tool. im looking at my mag drill a little differently now lol. thanks for sharing that inovative idea with us.
Good job. I built one just like that 20 years ago. It is still in operation. Your mounts are much better than mine. Mine were made of any scrap I could find on the job site. It worked though perfectly though. Done a lot of buckets, grapples etc for the logging industry over the years.
Glad to see U rolling again, Collin This is something totally new in this part of the world. Never seen or knew what "Line Boring" 'twas all about . And like the man sayeth - "'twas definitely not Boring at all" - definitely U have some ingenious ideas Collin. Thanks a stack and Keep 'em coming aRM
+aR M So no heavy equipment in your area? Line bore is commonly used in equipment repair. I've just never done it and want to add the service to my shop. There's more to this setup and hope to get some additional footage soon. Thanks for the comment! Colin :-)
Very good job I am very interested and I have learned many thanks for sharing is what I was looking for I have a mag drill and I needed to do a borin line with the mag thank you very much for sharing
Don't get too crazy copying it yet. I found some areas to improve and did so. I will try to document in a video soon. The newer edition is much better. :-)
Hey Colin, I would suggest that you put elongated slots for your bearing mounts and add 2 all threaded screws to push the bearing blocks that you could use to fine tune your bar position. This is fine if you just need a good hole, but I think it would be hard to get accurate position of that hole if it was needed with this setup. Works plenty good for what you did with it though, glad you aren't stuck in an RV somewhere!
+bcbloc02 Hey Colin, great video...! Agree with Brian, would be good to slot the bearing mounts so you can fiddle with the alignment of the bar, given your probably dealing with wallowed out holes to start with... Excellent setup... Cheers, Daniel
+bcbloc02 I had seen that on one of the kits I was viewing and planned to add it at some point...great idea. A few other changes are pending as well! No worries...RVs are soon on the menu again..:-)
I did that untill someone walked by and tripped over the plug end and everything came crashing down! So I took the magnet off installed insulated spade connectors and added a few feet of wire enough to get magnet out of the way safely. Then cut a 1" plate to put in the magnets place bolting it to the drill motor. Even a power bump and it will fall. And by lengthening the wires it still ran. Was a newer drill with circuit board in it. Good luck! Nice work.
A video! Yay! I like your "depth" setter. (Not sure of the correct term) It's very simple. I want to build one for my line boring rig, but I was trying to make it too complicated. I have to add I'm disappointed, though, I was looking forward to the explosion! ;)
+Wide Vision Metal Fab Thanks Matt. I suppose I could have cranked in a huge cut and forced it through...LOL The setting tool is nice for such a small bar. Probably not necessary for a larger one as you can use a set-screw to push the toolbit.
I like it, my old tractor needs a lot of the fittings line bored and all new bushings installed, I may never see that day, but I can see how my mag drill and boring bar can do it now.
+Ed Ginsberg If you have the power source the remainder isn't hard or expensive. The square broach is a little pricey but way cheaper than a factory built unit. Thanks :-)
Hello Mate, try this company : Sturdy Broaching co, Warren, MI. www.sturdybroaching.com/contact-us-2. The only thing I would worry about is the "Tweeking", or movement of the bar, to put it out of round, after they were welded in. I have seen others use a round hole, then drill & tap a threaded hole 90 degrees to it. Put square tool bit in, clamp down with set screw. BTW, make sure you remove the cup point on the end of the set screw, or the set screw will always fall into that same place on the tool bit. Your thoughts ?
Nice set up. Got a question(s). What do you do when you have an egged out hole(i.e., re-locate the hole). How do you adjust for that. Also, after you grind your weld off those bearing legs do you have to take a squaring cut on the 4 legs to make them all even height again ?
+pierre beaudry A little more work to be done on it yet but come tractor season it'll be ready to go. I have people wanting to rent it already.... Cheers..:-)
Gidday Shagger, about to mount a fly cutter on mine and i thought i'll have a look on You Tube if any one else has done this. The only thing I'd change on yours is the steel base the mag base mounts onto. I'd go 1 inch thick, thicker it is the stronger it hangs on. nice work though.
Colin, Thanks for the "boring" video! (lol) That's a pretty clever setup you have. You need a boring machine like Abom79 uses in his videos. Thanks again, and great to hear from you. Have a good one! Dave
+Swarf Rat Hey, I want a small boring mill in the worst way...love Bruce Whithams...more my size. Still wouldn't do much with some of the heavy equipment that has to be done on-site...portable line bore works well. Thanks. :-)
+Tom Zelickman (Inspiration Metalworks) Hi Tom. This was just as described...a test run to check design. I have a short list of additions and changes for it and will work on it between jobs in the next while. Thanks :-)
on yer setting tool, its possible to get "micrometer heads" just the threaded bit with the thimble and barrel so you can mount that and use it to adjust the cutting tool.
+Richard Schmidtendorff Yes, a dial indicator and magbase would work quite nice as well. Did just that when I tried a longer toolbit. Trying to get part 2 recorded now and have made some changes to the whole affair. Thanks for commenting.. :-)
That will be good for repairing buckets and other implements in the field. Knuckle bushings as well. I guess you can make A/C power for the mag drill off a generator or a welder if you are set up for that. Nice job, and a good design for working on smaller equipment like your little backhoe.
+Bob Korves This one was purpose built for the smaller equipment. I know of several now that need work and hope to get it into operation soon. 120V power make portable use easy as a side benefit. Cheers :-)
+CompEdgeX That was my guess. It looks perfect for that size equipment. It is a good thing to be able to go to the customer as well as letting him come to you. Usually more money in it as well...
Hi Colin, Welcome back! Your new tool works great. What kind of stock did you use for the boring bar? Since the straightness and stiffness of the bar are clearly important considerations, is ordinary cold rolled 1018 straight (and strong) enough, or did you use something else? Looking forward to more videos. Best, -Chris
+bx2200 Thanks Chris. The bar material is 1045 ground shafting. It offers dimensional accuracy and higher strength over cold rolled. Chromed would have been nicer but none available at the time.
Very interesting video. The setup ingenious. I hope you will show the actual job when you get that far. This would allow "in the field" work and with really good results. What is the diameter of the axle/boring bar? It would also be nice to see how you drilled and broached the bar, adding set screw (I assume). Very nice solution for adjusting the cutting tool. Thanks for sharing. Well done video, too!
+Jim Milne Thanks Jim. This whole exercise is to prepare myself to offer a service that is not available in this area. This unit is meant to be a lightweight rig designed to re-bore smaller bores found on mini-excavators and the like. Bar size is .875" (7/8"). I have taken test cuts with it up to and including 2.4" today. Above 2" it starts to flex but it was never intended to go that big. I'm making a larger bar for that. I had planned to record some of the fabrication but the broach tool was borrowed and needed to get it done and returned. I made a large improvement today that I will touch on in the next video. :-)
Great tool Colin! One thing I'm wondering is how you're going to measure your bore. I guess when you have a line boring job you need to fit something pretty precisely in there, and this something is probably pre-made like a bearing or a repair bushing.
+Sergey Gromov Sorry I missed this comment.. Yes the bore is generally done precise but often the bore is only machined to a round condition again and the sleeve made to fit the hole. In this case precise measure is not necessary until ready to fit the bushing. In cases where accuracy is needed it is quite easy to remove the bar to fit a snap gage or other bore measure tool. Colin :-)
good work Colin ! ive been researching on building me a rig like this ...i haven't run into the need yet to have to use it but i have many customers with heavy equipment so its a matter of time im sure lol..... did you put the angle of the bit on 45 degrees ? i see where alot of them are .......the thing about this is you have to have a bunch of different bars for different size holes lol ......i guess bearing assembly's too......ah more projects ...........Eric in Kentucky.........
+eric chilton I already have more material for a larger bar...but need a more powerful source motor for the bigger bar. Biggest bores I expect to see here would be around 4" I suspect. There's probably no end to the project! thanks :-)
looks good only thing i would say is 3 legs are better than 4 as they will not rock. when i do set up we just use 3 legs got a hole box full of stand off's. only other thing is give them a little angle out or in but all the same way . think of a tri-pod.keep up the good work
Ya, I can see that. Will keep it in mind for some setups for sure. Havent done much to continue this project lately but do plan to add more to it. Colin :-)
have you considered making the standoff legs on the bearing blocks removable? it would not only save wear the tool itself but i believe it would make getting the stand offs off the part easier as you could just snap them off the opposite direction they were welded then just grind smooth. would think it would be a pretty easy modification but it looks good either way
+andrew mac I had thought of some flat bars with a series of holes attached to the frame with complimentary disposable pieces to weld to the job. Today just wanted to do some type of test on it...have plenty of changes to make after watching the video myself. Thanks
Loved your video! We have a small shop with a New Holland TV140 bi directional tractor with a bad articulation pin. We have a Hougen mag drill and would like to build your boring bar. Any chance you have drawings, sketch, plans etc ?
Sorry Tom...for the delay in answering and the lack of info. I built this from my head as is customary for me. Changes have been made since this video. Will try to document it into a video soon. Thanks :)
+Bob Korves The toolbit in the video had a neutral rake so that might work nicely. I had another ground with positive rake but didnt test it. I also didnt try any heavier than the .025" DOC (.050" diameter) as shown in the video. I noticed some things I wanted to change so the video was cut short. More to come on this project. :-)
+wheeltapper1 Well, not necessarily. You can use a spring caliper to gage the inside bore. Even taking the bar out on a small rig like this is no big deal. Thanks for commenting.. :-)
Tool height can also be easily set using a dial indicator (more accurate anyway). Using the tool is great for quick adjustment while roughing. The bar I made myself using some 1045 ground shafting. quite easy once you have the needed square broach. A fellow machinist was nice enough to lend me one for this experiment. :-) I have made some changes to this setup and hope to document it in a future video.
***** Hmmm perhaps two pieces of flat steel with a pivot point with degrees. Lay one flat on the bar lift other bar up (must have a sharp point_ until it reaches the determined height of finish bore- or to measure cutter height. Kind of like a carpenter's bevel square in design but small and modified. I am not a machinist but a 35 year carpenter...
***** As you said it is not the rough cut- but the final cut. So once you reach the predetermined height you're done. You only have to measure once this way. Set modified bevel square on bar and slide towards bore if it does not fit in your not there.. Must have a very sharp point with 100 degree back cut bottom angle. And can be used to measure tool height fast. Same thing- slide to cutter height --if cutter height has not reach that point you're not there yet... We call that a cheat stick..
***** the hard part is the math to set up cheater.But once set and securely tightened no more measuring. Ok i am done -- like your video-- as with all videos-- they make us think and learn. Keep them coming---
A preset gage will in theory work. What it lacks however is the ability to monitor tool pressure during the cuts... whats dialed in as compared to whats actually cut. There is always spring in the tool and knowing how to allow for it is a big part of cutting metal. You'll hear the term "spring cut" or "spring pass" quite often. Dependant on material you can dial in a .050" cut but only remove .045". Monitoring this as the final size approaches is what makes a good fit or an oops!! :-)
Told you that you could build it' I really like your tool setter also' looks nice' Now that you proved you can build one you will make larger ones' and Improve on design'
+Jacob Boehnke Thanks Jacob. I already have the 1.5" material for a larger bar. It will require a stronger power source though. Will finish the small bar setup first and work on pieces for the bigger unit. :-)
@@CompEdgeX2013 thanks for the response, what depth of cut were you taking here? i need to figure out how to open up a 100mm hole to four inches ensitu on an injection molding machine
You can buy a power feed for a mill and adapt it to your mag drill handle and have power feed. I'm working on mine now if you'd like contact me and I'll send you some videos of it at work
+Amateur Redneck Workshop Harold that's a rarely seen part of a tractor called a "junk plate". It's located right next to the steering nut... LOL Thanks :-)
