Where do we stand between the two, Load Number vs Ride Height and is it really a tire load number. Spring load link: www.bsbgofast.... Ride height gauge: www.bsbgofast....
I agree with all of your points. The only thing i think you missed is unless they are like for like cars (same year, same lower control arms) the results will vary quite a bit based on shock angle (mounting point angle) and lower mount distance away from center of spring. Angle will change load and distance away from center of spring will change load due to the moment and motion ratio. Ive had a few guys call me asking about load stick loads and it was clear they were off in the weeds. This video will definitely help those chasing the load numbers and how they are used. Good info!
Can you go into more detail with the stockcar side of this. With our new ride height rules kinda changes things. We don’t really anything that light in the front end.
The scaling or load sticking procedure is the same regardless of ride heights and Spring rates. Maybe I don't understand that question, can you reward it or give an example?
@@jerseyshoredroneservices225 I understand scaling and loadsticking are the same, but when you have to lower your car you lose load in those corners. So I’m wondering say I run a 800 lb spring and at 3 inches of travel I was at 2200 of load. But if I have to lower the car what spring rates would allow me to lower the car, but keep the same load at that 3” number.
@@tysonpartridge2773 Just because we never met or even spoke before I'm going to try to explain what I'm thinking very methodically, step-by-step. Sorry if it starts off too slow and basic for you. Also I'm not Maynard Troyer or Bob McCready. These are just my thoughts from my own experience with race cars, but if you think I'm wrong please say so. " When you lower the car you loose load on those corners". That's only correct if you do one corner or diagonal corners. For example if you lower the right front by screwing up on the spring adjuster, that corner will get lighter but the left front and right rear will get heavier. The diagonal corner which is the left rear will also get lighter. If you lower the whole car evenly on all 4 corners the wheel weights and load numbers will stay the same. If you lower just the front evenly on the left and right sides your numbers will stay nearly the same. About your spring rates, you only need to change that if the car hits the track when you lower it. So hypothetically if you lower both front corners 2 inches and you start digging into the track then you would need stiffer springs to limit the travel... or use bump stops...or coil bind. Bump stops and coil Bind setups are probably not appropriate for most cars on most tracks. So if you're gonna have a lower ride height to start with and you need to limit travel with stiffer springs then then I think what you need to do is calculate what your spring load was on your old spring at full travel. One way or another you would come up with how much travel you had with the softer springs and then put it in a spring crusher to see what the load number is at full travel. That number represents the spring pressure you need to keep the car off the track. Now take a stiffer spring, compress it down to that same number and see how much travel it took to get there. Did it travel too much, meaning did it travel enough that the car is hitting the ground, considering your new, lower right height? If it traveled too much then you need a stiffer Spring (or maybe a spring rubber) so get a stiffer Spring and repeat the process. If it traveled very little and you're not utilizing all of the ride height then you're new spring is too stiff and you could go back a little bit towards a softer one. Technically instead of trial and error with these different springs you could calculate spring travel based on the load number. You measured your old Spring and came up with the spring pressure at full travel. Hypothetically lets say it's 1000 pounds. You also know how much shock travel you have available with your new, lower right height. Hypothetically let's say you have 3 inches of shock travel available before the car hits the ground. Your new Spring needs to have a rate that provides 3 inches of travel and accumulates that load number of 1000lbs. A Spring rate of 300 pounds per inch, compressed for your 3 inches of shock travel would accumulate 900 pounds of load number so that's a little soft. 325x3 = 975 which is getting pretty close. Makes sense?
Finally an explaination, of what I can understand of the "load". I've always said to myself that it's about keeping the car off the track, but the tire in it.
I race a Bmod. It isn't uncommon, for the track to throw an audible and farm the track, with next to know notice and SOMETIMES, I don't have the option/time etc to make a spring change for the feature when that happens. What do you suggest we do in that situation?
When this happens your adjustment will depend on what you are doing with the car, here are a couple of options: Have a soft RF in the car, you can add turns to the Rf to help the car turn and to keep it out of the ground. The increase in speed may have you getting to the load faster. The same applies to the RR< if you were getting ready for more of a slick track and you are carrying lead on the RR you may need to add some turns to the RR to help it from over traveling it.
Hello Jay with building my own IMCA Stock car chassis how do you know what RF spring rate to start with not having a base line. I have 800 Rf and 900 Lf to begin with. I'm assuming its about test laps. Love the video's and been a ton of help. Thanks Tom
We do ours different. When we setup any of our mods we find the center to center on RF shock bottomed out and use that as a length to keep the RF out of the track when we put it in dynamic. Then we have found that most chevelle frames like around 1250 to 1450 lbs of load at that length. Aluminum head A mod on a bump seems to like the smaller number. Steel head E mod likes the heavier number. At that point you dial in the spring rate. A light 400 spring sits higher atcstatic and will load the LR more it seems as the 400 raises the RF more. If we put in a 600 it keeps the RF down and turns beyter as it has less range of motion to load the LR. We have even played with an 850 RF and that thing just wanted to turn all the time because the RF just stayed down and never Really transferred weight to the LR.
Hello Jay, when I initially set my ride heights I use set up plates ( 4 corners are identical axle/spindle hgt ) to make sure all my roll centers and angels are correct but where I run into issues is once I mount all four tires I need to reset ride heights to get geometry back but now my ride heights are off. Do you understand what I’m saying? So what is the correct way especially now with ride heights min/max rules. Thank You jay and I hope you get enough interest and response to keep the channel going. It’s helped me a ton!
Yes, if I understand correctly when you have your setup plate on the car you lose the rake in the car that the tires make. If this is the case I think I would do the setup with the tire instead of the plates or make some adapters to put the car in the correct position. Ride heights are going to be crazy this year.
