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IMCA Northern Sport Mod. What is a good location for the RR spring on top. Meaning centerline of spring to centerline of the tire or brake rotor? Thanks
Thanks Jay for all the valuable insight and knowledge. Always enjoy the critical info discussed in all your videos. What are your thoughts on a 2 link car allowed to run swing arms? Seems to be pretty popular at the tracks in my area.
Thanks for videos. What do you mean when you say rebound,spring rate, ride height and load for correct cornering? Can you do video on how these would apply through the corner?
I'm running 100 lb of preload on my left rear in an IMCA sport mod. I've been able to free up the shocks because it seems to dynamically keep it an attitude where are my shocks can be less aggressive to maintain rear steer and right front grip.
This is the whole reason of the soft spring market. Softer the spring that can still hold ride height the better under dynamic. Just has to hold ride height and not get lazy to get up on the bars
It is when the car is at full hike, on a bite setup with a 175 spring you can be off the spring at full hike, being just on the bars. The 4 link rods are carrying the load.
@kellyfegter9605 if you compare the chevell to the metric front clips... the spring centers are similar, the metric is approximately 1/4" wider, the front is approximately 1-1/2" taller on the front of the horns and the kickout/side rails the metric is narrower by approximately 2"... the next thing you should look at are the mounting points on the clip for the lowers. Then check the distance from the pivot point to the center of the spring pocket, followed by the distance to the balljoint... the front track widths are comparable. Sooo IMO, the length of the lowers and the length from pivot to the spring pocket is the important info... then compare that to the rest of the setup.
What if the right rear is compressed to much? Not sure how to get weight off RR without adding bite. Trying to stay at 40 lbs of bite. 225lbs spring and it is compressing to 10". All of the lead is off of the car. Also I put my preload spring on and it holds the left rear way to high. 100lbs spring with 2.25 inches of preload. Any suggestions?
Good question and one I feel that has been asked before; (with no gas pressure) never, even if it is a base valve shock it must have gas in it. Gas pressure is directly related to compression, the more compression the more gas. Gas pressure controls the oil column on the compression side of the shock even in a base valve shock. When you run a twin tube shock and the gas bag breaks that shock is done, the reason is that there needs to be something to function for shaft volume and this is the divider moving up and down. Oil moves it up and gas moves it down.
@@jaynealgofast I really appreciate you taking time to do all this. I know there are a ton of people who keep up with your channel even if they dont subscribe or comment. Anytime someone has a queston on racing forums about shocks this channel is always recommended.
@@jaynealgofast What is a good pressure to start off at on a 10-2 LR and a tie down RF? Running open modified in Texas, Always winds up dry slick this time of year
Jay... Wanted to ask or have you discuss the difference in the amount it takes to deflect the TH spring vs normal spring in the RR. Sportmods specifically with the IMCA rules forcing us to run the spring relativly straight up and down at ride height that results in the spring deflecting at attitude. We both know as a spirng deflects it loses rate. My thought was if the TH spring takes more energy to defelect (Not sure if it does or not, just my hypothisis) then that would add side bite with the spring pushing lateraly fighting to holding shape vs deflecting resulting in more side bite in the RR then a spring that deflects easier. Just a theory of mine. Let me know your thoughts? Yes, I watched the video to the end.
Thanks for watching to the end, because of the softness this spring has I am guessing that it would not add to the rate. In general the more coil or the longer the rod the softer the spring.
Sorry for the basic questions. I have so many track adjustment sheets and notes from one chassis builder to the next and one contradicts the other. I have one that came with my car that says more RR load makes tighter entry and loose off and less vice versa. Get steered in the wrong direction and never understand why cause I'm doing what they say too. Thank you for the info.
I just picked up a clean Larson IMCA... its a bit dated... so I'll be looking at purchasing a modern pullbar, brackets, J-bar, birdcages, etc. Any suggestions. 😊 I'm a SS guy switching to IMCA mods.
Set the RR load at RIDE HEIGHT, and scale the car with bite. Then add the preloaded left rear spring setup, if this changes your ride height let it be, go race the car. Good luck and if you need more info call 620-326-3152.
I definitely lean towards apexing in sector 1 , but my car will not rotate or turn very well on or off gas. I have to muscle it around the corner and over drive it. Any tips? (Stock 4-link rear)
This was incredibly helpful! I’ve done the Harris classes, read books, and watched tons of videos which definitely helps, but nobody talks about how to drive. This was what I needed to know. First night out after watching this I felt way better in the car. Thank you!!!
Last I knew the checkered flag 🏁 is always waved on corner exit … So with that said it makes no sense to Race as hard as u can I to corner entry just so u have to slow down and pay for that on corner exit.. So it’s ok to back your entry up so that you can get all u can on your corner exit where the W 🏁 $$ is waving!! So many guys in race with all just PlOW into the corners and then usually are spinning out center / off 🤦🏼 and they don’t learn either I always make sure my exit is always perfect and yea sometimes I back the entry up just a tad but guess what not a 1 beats me on exit. I think allot of these guys that over driver entry do so cause their gearing is wrong and or they’re finally thinking they are catching some cars lmao 😂. Racing isn’t for everybody Mr Jay I’ve given up trying to help these kinda guys cause there nodding like they get it but then they go out there wk after wk lap after lap and do the exact bs that u just preached to them. 🤦🏼. My track does 3 spins and your done cause sadly a few of em loop it every single lap.. 😂🤷🏼
Jay, thank you so much for making these videos. I am brand new to racing, running a hobby stock class. I set up my car with your shocks and springs, now I just need to learn how to drive. These videos should help tremendously. It would actually be beneficial for me and I assume other Newer drivers for you to break down Driver actions even more. As an example, braking at the end of the straightaway, then turning. Are you releasing the brake completely then turning, easing off of the brake while beginning your turn? Dragging brake while applying throttle? As you are applying power through the turn, how sideways should you allow the car to get? Basically none? Minimal? 1-2 feet out? At what point are you sacrificing speed? I realize this is going to be different for different classes of car. But I am assuming most beginners start with beginner classes. Thank you again for these videos!
Get your car geared as close to the tracks size that u can someone there for you don’t need a Ton of brake cause that just slows u down but get it so that your motor brake slows ya down just enough that you can just Roll to center and then right back in the throttle therefore your not using much FOOT Brake @ all. I like allot of gear ⚙️ it helps me with how I drive allot guys are under gear and still have lots of pull even at the end of the straights so many because of that over drive the entries.. make sure your not leaving any ENGINE Power out there on the track get it geared as close to the track as u can and that will help u allot. IMO
16:04 It clicked for me. I know the difference between drive and momentum. But how to apply it to the car and what I need out of it at a given spot on the track, that's where it got confusing. Wasn't exactly sure which driving style I was trying to accomplish. It seems like a simple idea but this will help me a lot. Thanks Jay!
