Lock'er Down Console Gun Safe 

Yep. Unless you're parking your vehicle in a dark and isolated place where a would-be thief will have plenty of time to use tools to eventually break it, it's going to work just fine. Meanwhile, the people criticizing that it isn't a bank vault probably use their glove box.

Justin Opinion, Even bank vaults can be broken into with the right equipment and time... Will the smaller gun vault fit into it? double locked to protect it for an extra few minutes... Have a great day...

This High Country has the High Desert package, which makes it very Avalanche-like. I might do a review of the truck but that will really annoy viewers.

Yes indeed. Camaro ZL1 is for Sunday afternoons, Silverado is for the rest of the week.

I don't have that tray! Now I want one!! What's the part number? I guess it depends how deep the tray is. I could measure the distance from the holders down to the top of the lock - but it's pretty shallow.

Justin Opinion I just went and looked at it and realized that if I bought this safe I wouldn't be able to use the tray. It has two compartments split evenly down the middle. Right side is 4 inches deep and left side 2 inches. Right side is deeper because it has a compartment under the top compartment. Oh well, I'll have to either learn to live without the tray or figure out another solution. Thanks for your response. Love your channel, very professional.

You're very welcome - thanks for the comment(s). The safe is really bigger than my needs will be most of the time too, but such a perfect fit and so well made, I thought it was worth it.

Didn't try that but I will. You've made me curious.

Raise better kids and have higher quality friends and they wont steal your stuff, and if an EMP goes off I have bigger concerns than the small side piece in my truck. Why would you give anyone the code to the safe in your truck, such a dumb comment.

Correct, if you want the same lock you see here. Expensive, but I think it's worth it.

Nope. The way it is designed, the locking tab cannot be accessed by the gap where the lid closes. There is in internal channel that separates them. It's a serious design, not one of the ones you buy at the big box store.

The locking shaft is made of cheap Chinese steel and can be popped quite easily... Should use a stronger grade of steel...

@@Al-mu4ff How do you know what grade of steel it is? Must have a pretty good calibrated eyeball there!

I suppose you could do that, but it would require pre-threading the cable when you install the safe. I think the main purpose is to prevent condensation inside the safe by allowing air pressure and temperature to remain balanced.

It's most likely for suction control so it doesn't get stuck in the center console when you remove it

It's likely it would be - I don't think I'd try to draw the gun from the holster while also being held by the magnet - too many things to go wrong. But as a way to keep it in one place while off-body and still have it in a holster when handling it is not a bad idea.

You replace the battery...duuuuu

@@bc_usa It remembers your pre set code that you programed in, and works without problems by inserting the new battery

@@lnl2000, Absolutely...

@@lnl2000 🤠👍

...and that's how you choose where and when to store it.

Absolutely - that's a perfect use for it.

They make one that fits your truck.

No, it's not.

I don't think so. I believe it beeps when the battery is getting low, but one would certainly want to change it regularly!

full or 1/2 sized one. Just curious. The half-sized one looks more vulnerable to prying from side exposed inside console. Also, how old was model and what lock? I'm in market for one of these right now (if you couldn't guess!). They advertise the non-extreme model (2043) where lid closes pretty flush with frame and then there's the extreme they are proud of...but I notice the 10-ga lid creates a sort of leverage point (possibly) for a pry tool. They claim said opening for such a tool is razor thin and would not accept a pry tool. Did you try to get these people at that company to stand behind product. Sorry for your aggravation. I'm just a gun rights loving, patriotic, careful citizen trying to make a decision that's fairly costly but which sounds like a good idea...until I read your comment. Everybody and everything else I've read thinks this item is the bee's knees! Your thoughts, pls.

Lock’er Down actually was awesome when I reported the theft. They replaced my standard with an Extreme for FREE and it’s much more solid. The pry point that made my last one vulnerable is nonexistent in this model and it’s much chunkier. Not impossible to crack, I’m sure, but much more challenging. I’d recommend the Extreme.

@@jasonjohnson7505 thx for response. May I pick your brain since you have such a "unique" experience 9lol) with this product? And I hope crook(s) were caught...at some point. I'm not a stranger to home safes and there the most important thing (besides basic, sound quality) is denying low-grade tweekers a pry bar, or leverage, point on your safe. Of course, when someone is willing to pay $5,000-$7,000 for a 2,000 lbs home safe, that's not that hard to accomplish, esp if one bolts home safe to the foundation. But I noticed on both your previous model (2043) and new one (2043EX and 1/2 - sized 1043EX), there seem to be potential weal points. I was hoping you'd give me your opinion on this: it seems that with old one that the lid recessed into frame, sort of flush; whereas with new one, the thicker lid has been designed to hang over recess thereby perhaps inadvertently offering a lid for a pry device to get under...or not? I called nice folks in S.A. and they assured me that EX lid is real tight down on frame and no pry device could get under it in any kind of timely way. BUT...someone was able to pry your 2043 even though that old lid SEEMS to fit pretty well into recess, thereby seemingly denying crook an easy access point for prying. I guess your old one didn't have THAT tight of a space (credit card or less thin, as is case with top-drawer home safes) after all, huh? I'm assuming that was where the pry job on yours took place? But you seem satisfied that a similar jobber couldn't take advantage of new set-up like he did old one...and I just wanted some of your confidence to rub off on me...a guy who just spent $46.3k on truck and is spending some more aftermarket, including MORE $$$ for a really good idea: a safe - if only I can get confident that it's a fairly serious deterrent (in light of your unfortunate outcome). Thank you for reading my verbose post and I look forward to your response. Thx.

@@teller121 Great questions. My experience is that the standard grade safe that resulted in my loss had an easy pry point, the widish gap between the lid and the body where it closed down into the body. Also, it was lighter gauge steel (12, i think). Probably "okay" in preventing a smash and grab and certainly an improvement over no safe. In the Extreme, though, a 10-ga steel "lid" closes over the entire safe taking up all of the top-of-safe "real estate" visible inside the console. It might be possible to get a pry bar in between the lid and the plastic console walls of the truck, but those plastic walls are not substantial enough to pry against. You'd have a really hard time getting a pry bar between the lid and the body of the safe. I'd endorse the Extreme model as a significant upgrade. Hope that helps.

@@jasonjohnson7505 yeh, thx. any thoughts on 1/2 safe version vs full? (only available in Exxtreme 10-ga, btw). Oh, you mention 12-ga vs 10-ga...they pried it, right?...as opposed to penetrating the actual steel lid/walls?

You read my mind! I actually have it on my list to do a short follow-up and update on this safe. I'm encouraged that there is some interest.

@@JustinOpinionChannel Awesome! I am looking forward to it! I am in the market for a console safe, that is how I found your channel. I checked out some of your CZ gun review videos and you definitely earned my subscription! Apparently, there is a competitor to the Lock'er Down safe called the "Console Vault". I don't know if you have seen this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-k18auztG6XM.html but it seems like Console Vault uses cheap chinese metals. It looks like they are easy to break into because of their weak locking mechanism. I am not sure if anyone has tried to break into your car safe, or how similar the Lock'er Down safe is to the Console Vault, but maybe (in addition to addressing the ease of access during an emergency) you can talk about how hard you think the Lock'er Down safe would be to break into. Thanks again! And keep up the great work!

Probably the Ford guy...

A Subaru owner!