If you're into tinkering and improving printers, something you could do is to splice a 25 ohm 5W resistor in series with the fan to quiet it down significantly. I did some benchtop testing to measure the temperature rise of the lamp assembly and any other electronics WITHOUT the fan plugged in. I had the UV lamp on for a few minutes straight and only saw about a 5 degree C rise. The lamp assembly has a large enough heatsink to not need that huge amount of airflow provided in the stock configuration. An added benefit on slowing the fan speed is that it won't force the fumes out into the air as fast and this opens up the possibility to add downward facing filtered fans similar to the anycubic photon s. I have noticed that the photon S is significantly less smelly so I will probably mod this printer to filter fumes as well.
As someone who backed the orange 30 kickstarter it is really great to see that the little brother of that machine is performing well. It's nice to see some attention being paid to the safety concerns around resin printing as I see too many people on yt picking prints off the build plate with their fingers and touching the resin without gloves. Great video, keep it up.
Back 15 years ago when I used to be in the jewelry manufacturing ,this technology existed at the cost of $50k. And the machine was the size of a large Xerox copy machine.
Great video with a REALLY good message on the safety aspect :D I love how low cost this technology is becoming and with good advocates like Joel, everyone will be able to learn how to use it to make amazing things.
Was about to comment regarding the great safety warning with respect to resin printers and then I see MakersMuse comment on the same. It's great to see creators in the 3D printing space appreciate each other's work and also make the people aware of all aspects related to 3D printing. Thank you for your work guys much appreciated.
For Black Friday, I bought a Nova3D Elfin. Things I’ve learned since - all the precautions taught in Chem 1A apply. The LCD screen used to create the mask will fail and require replacement sooner than you might expect. It’s seems to be a good idea to use 99% IPA but I have heard that something like Everclear pure grain alcohol would also work well. Mean Green and Sprayway work well for non-translucent resins. An inexpensive one or two litter ultrasonic cleaner should get parts really clean in about 3min. A nail polish UV curing lamp can be used to complete part curing - my UV flashlight works really well. And a proprietary mind set sucks. The Elfin requires NovaMake, which has significant shortcomings that ChiTuBox could overcome but It doesn’t save in .stl and Elfin cannot seem to parse a .slc file. And finally - I need to become far more proficient with MeashMixer if ChiTuBox’s .slc files won’t work reliably with Elfin or NovaMaker won’t add “make hollow” and “add hole” features as easy to use as ChiTuBox. Both of which fall squarely on Nova3D’s shoulders. But man I sure love the quality and speed.
Hey Joel - As a respiratory therapist, I applaud that you took time to explain and warn against the potential hazards of inhaling SLA resin vapors and fumes. >15 million people have asthma in this country alone, and environmental/occupational/recreational + other types of chemical exposures contribute to that problem as well as other types of pulmonary disease. On a macro level, we can all probably appreciate that inhaling large amount of resin vapors could be harmful. However, one of the things that often goes overlooked is the effects of very low dose/long term exposure (as opposed to a brief high dose exposure). As these devices become more prevalent in homes, I can foresee that there will be some people who are adversely affected largely because of ignorance of the risks and carelessness. I think it's great that you took the time to point out the potential risks and appropriate handling and use of UV resin and I hope that everyone who watches this takes heed. Thanks for all you do. You're an excellent teacher and role model. Now, where was that Amazon link?
Here you go sir! www.amazon.com/Longer-Printer-Orange-Off-line-Printing/dp/B07RT7TW38/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=longer+3d+orange+10&qid=1562656488&s=gateway&sr=8-1&linkCode=sl1&tag=3dpriner-20&linkId=4513716356418cfadabb2819e76f7ede&language=en_US
Hi Michael - is a standard 3M replaceable filter mask, like you might get at Home Depot, good enough to protect oneself? And what about resin dust from the air getting on the skin?
@@TravDadGamer Hi Travis - I am not an absolute expert in this area but, by virtue of my professional experience, I might have a tad more knowledge or intuition in this area than the average "man on the street," but I would certainly defer to someone with greater experience than I if they are reading this and wish to contribute to the discussion. In looking at personal protective masks for any application, you would need to determine whether they are rated for just particulates, or also include vapors and fumes. Vapors and fumes are essentially gases and cannot be removed, in a mask, by particulate filtration; they must be removed chemically. This typically means a different type of mask with an absorbent cartridge whose design includes the specific chemicals you wish to exclude. These may or may not be readily available commercially. However, FDM and SLA 3D printers do not require the user to wear personal protective gear provided that common-sense precautions are observed. These include: 1. limiting your exposure proximity and exposure time if you are an asthmatic or have chronic lung disease; and 2. using the device in an area with adequate ventilation (an exhaust hood, an exhaust fan, an open window, a well-ventilated space, etc). Manufacturers typically provide device-appropriate warnings and cautions that should be followed if their devices have the potential to expose users to possibly harmful particulates or vapors. The point I was trying to make in my original comment was that some people will likely ignore those precautions for any number of reasons. Joel was probably cognizant of that and decided to error on the side of caution by emphasizing the small, yet potential, hazards. I high-fived him because, as a respiratory health professional, I was happy to see someone in an influential position being so responsible and cognizant. I believe that the vast majority of people, provided that they read and follow the precautions specified by the manufacturers, will not have any problems. Regarding your questions about resin dust getting on your skin .... I don't think there is any resin dust from the SLA printing process (only some vapors). However, in post-processing, if you are sanding an SLA resin model, for example, then there is a possibility of sanding dust and you should take whatever precautions are necessary to make sure you don't breathe it. As for me, as soon as I save up the requisite dollars, I'm going to get one of those new SLA printers. I have a spot near the window reserved for it.
I actually really, really wanted an SLA printer until I heard about the fumes. As much as I'd love one, I dont have the space nor the ventilation to handle resin fumes. So this video (and others that mention the resin fumes) helped steer me away from them. I just really wanted SLA because it seems like less dicking around and insane detail (was looking at elegoo mars or the anycubic photon)
I order d one of these from their Kickstarter, and I can't wait to get it. Supposed to begin delivery around August, I believe, so this is the first real-world review I've seen of it, and I couldn't be happier. Thanks, Joel!
Meh.. no one seems to care... another generation that will be having resin damage from these things... and I'm sure folks will be throwing all these used gloves and resin into landfills or even worse, down the drain... SIGH.... NOT.... GOOD!!!
pesto12601 I do care. About the environment of our planet as well as the people living here. John Britten was a brilliant engineer taken too soon because of cancer from inhaling lots of sanded resin particles. I work with resins and other toxic compounds and always wear a respirator. I think everyone else should too.
@@bobby2428 I understand. Sometimes people want to be scared of something. Cancer from epoxy dust or CF dust is easy to avoid. A face mask is all you need.
I snip the supports of before curing because it's usually more flexible at this state. after curing, snapping thin supports can stress and break a connected thin part.
Awesome! I'm finally gonna be able to buy a resin printer after FDM printing for 4 years! I've been looking forward to this day! Thanks for bringing this to our attention!
The reason to cut the supports off before everything cures all the way is that when you do wait they tend to snap and not cut. When they snap they make a small concave on the part itself so if you're not extremely careful you will get pits on the part and depending on your tolerances that could make it useless. When the resin is still that little bit soft, it will rip and shear. It looks worse at first but it rips straight across or even sometimes pinches so it leaves a convex surface on the part that you can sand down later (or take off with a Xacto). Also with more delicate parts, letting the resin cure all the way could make the support just as strong as the part itself so sometimes cutting it can make a piece of the part snap off just from the movement of your blade or snips. TLDR: It's faster to cut if it's all cured and often a lot of the work can be done with pressure rather then tools; it's more precise and cleaner cuts that have less of a chance at ruining detail on the part when it's not cured all the way.
Wow, that's some sick detail for a printer at that price. I can see myself using this to reproduce casting molds for small metal parts no longer available for classic cars.
Excellent video Joel ,I haven't bought one yet but when I do,I will wear safety glasses,just to be extra safe.I worked in Construction for 25 years and things happen.Always wear your PPE, Personal,Protective,Equipment. Love all your videos..
This one can: store.zmorph3d.com/products/zmorph-vx-full-set It has a syringe that even prints poop if you want. But rather the green apple fast run type I reckon. ;)
Great intro. I'm glad to see people talking about the additional safety concerns surrounding resin printing. Similar to what you stated, I was waiting for either the price to come down or less mess. The price of the current crop of small resin printers makes them very appealing.
To help get the parts off of the printer buy a piece of stainless steel the same size as your build plate and keep it in the freezer. When you are ready to take the part off place the build plate onto the freezer plate and leave it for around 10 ish minutes and it should pop right off without any breaking or any effort. That is what we do with our resin printer at work and the parts basically fall right off the build plate!
there is a benefit to snipping before curing. pre cured resin is softer and easier to snip. once it's cured it's quite brittle and increases your odds of breaking your model while snipping.
I have a couple FDM printers, recently bought an Anycubic Photon. For small detailed prints, LCD resin is the way to go. It's faster, easier, and printing 6 of something takes as much time as one. No layers, none of the plethora of issues with FDM, literally 100% build success and small parts are far stronger than any filament. Resolution in XYZ is measured in microns. They polish or paint beautifully. Prints can be optically clear. You can see why industrial printing is mostly resin-based and this is likely the future. It basically is a tool any 3D printer needs to make small prints. Small point: UV wavelengths are below 400nm, 405nm is blue light. This is used because under 400nm light would generate ozone. As for the fumes, yes, do not breathe, but fumes from ABS filament are just as bad.
I'm new to 3d printing and when I was shopping for my first printer I went FDM over resin because of the harzards. I did almost buy this machine though so I'm glad to see a video on how to use it.
How are you liking it? I have an ender 3 because of the price point and print volume. Thoughts on this? The details looks amazing, but I don't know how troublesome a resin printer can be and how limiting the print volume is.
I like it so far. It's easy to use and setup. The only complaint I have is the learning curve of the supports. Expect a few failed prints and use the photon file validator software to find any unsupported islands. There is a good video on the 3dprintfarm channel that shows you how to use the software. The video is called"How to get near perfect prints on your resin printer using this tool!". Hopefully this helps.
Yes these printers are more messy than filament ones but they’re not that bad. With a little organisation it’s really easy to keep things clean and deal with new prints off the machine. I haven’t found any issues with the resins regarding contact with my skin or smell even in a small environment. I would always recommend you follow the manufacturers instructions but you’re not dealing with toxic waste. I find a lot of these reviews exaggerate how bad it is to work with resin when its safe and easy if you have any common sense. Don’t use a playing card unless you’re planning on wasting a tone of them, use a plastic tool that can be cleaned and reused.
The 3D Printing Today podcast has brought up issues with low cost resin printers. The LCD screen on many are considered consumables, but are almost impossible to replace without breaking something. They are basically disposable printers
Pro-tip, when you buy gloves buy two different sizes. That way one fits extremely tight, and the other one will be looser. Reason being that when working with prints, there will be times that you have soaked gloves but aren't done working with the print. At those times, you take off the outer gloves leaving the print inside of them if possible. Then the other set of gloves are ready to go and you don't lose time putting another set of gloves on...
Thanks for another good video Joel and Sean. I got a different resin printer that uses the LCD masking recently. The results are amazing! But the messiness and potential safety issues are not great. Most people from what I've been reading clip off the supports before final curing because they tend to come off cleaner and don't shatter like after final cure. That has been my experience as well.
I just got one of these. Note at 8:00 you have the rubber bands incorrectly placed. If you look really closely there's a tiny groove in the plastic edges, closer to the top and bottom, where the rubber band should sit :)
From my experience I prefer to snap off supports before curing as its generally easier (supports are flexible and easy to tear off), if removing supports after curing it can require a bit more effort as they're stronger and more brittle and can in turn cause blemishes on the surface (not an issue if you plan to do any post print work like sanding), though I just do it when reasonable, if I print a miniature with a thin weapon like a sword I'll remove supports on chunkier stronger areas of the print, cure it all for a few minutes under a uv nail lamp, and then clip off supports around the sword
There is a distinct advantage to trimming support before curing. Because the uncured resin is less brittle, you can get cleaner snips that don't leave negative pocs in the surface and then sand anything remaining off. If you snip after cured, you risk shattering and pulling more material away. Also, the resin is actually more flexible before curing, so it is not as you said less strong before curing.
Thank you for doing this review and great intro! There's not a lot out there on resin printing and I just picked up the Elegoo thanks to Uncle Jessy's review! I'd love to see more stuff on resin printing if you can stand the mess!
I bought this printer had some bad Z axis issues real eyes for only $100 more I can just buy anycubic so I returned it and it was worth the trade up beautiful prints out the box way better Construction and most important online community for any issues
I mean, the reason I've never bothered with 3d printing is the detail just wasn't there... I could easily use this for parts and details in projects, and the barrier to entry just...poof. Gone.
$195 now on amazon with free shipping. This may be my first resin printer. I figure this would be good for small scale parts and learning the ways of resin printing.
I am so impressed with these little resin based printers. Many of them are on par with the quality of a moulded part. It makes me wish I were 30 years younger. If I had access to one of these back when I was an avid tabletop gamer, I would have never purchased my miniatures, I would have saved a couple thousand dollars printing my own.
Yes but then you wouldn't of had your Pewter army! LOL those were the days.. Yes I don't play tabletop games any longer, how ever I do love playing with 3d printers and a resin printer will be coming.
Check out elegoo resin on amazon. $40 a kilo. that is inline with good PLA prices!! its not crazy expensive anymore. its not $14 a kilo pla cheap but its not $125 a kilo any longer either !
I did a rewind and went frame by frame to see velenope appear just as the image distorted. I laughed at the realization that she glitched in. Very amusing and I found this video to be helpful as well. Thank you.
So I have both an FDM printer (plastic filament) and a DLP Printer (resin). If you break the support material off before curing then I believe you would be less likely to take small chunks of your model but I personally chose to do it after curing because of the fact that I also have the FDM printer. I do so after so that I don't need multiple sets of tools I need to keep track of since you don't want to use the tools coated in uncured resin while working on other projects.
I bought my first resin printer around 3 months ago, I recently backed the Longer 3D Orange 30 on kickstarter. I own 2 FDM printers, due to the quality and speed of my resin printer VS my FDM printers, I have vowed never to buy another FDM.
There is a certain amount of danger in everything in life. The only way you can be truly safe is to lock yourself in a rubber room. Even then it's not 100%. Too many people take so much care in prolonging their lives that they never truly live. There are health pros and cons to both resin and FDM printing. As far as safety goes you should just be smart in either case and you'll be fine.
@@joshuaszeto te only problem is the degradation of the LCD over time, hence in a masked DLP printer the LCD is considered a consumable with a very limited warranty.
Some advice when resin printing: - if you want even more detailed print, try using a painters brush when the print is in clear alchocol al gently brush off the surface to get all of the uncured or halfcured resin off. - when pouring the rest of the resin back, try using a plastic funnel and put the filter in the funnel. This means there is no additional hands needed, and fiter hole is not to big. - before pouring it back, shake the bottle to get the resin in homogenous state - clean the platform and all the tools used with alchocol. - if print delaminates it is posible to weld it back by just brushing resin back on and curing it - best way to cure is with a curing station, but also there is that thing girls who do manicures use. It also emits UV light and is fairly cheaper. This reduces the curing time. - ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES P.S. Its easier to get the support before curing, but it's also a way to breake yout print if there is some thin shapes or geometry
Don't do what Joel did in this video at 7:55 he touches the enclosure without gloves and at 12:15 he touches it with the contaminated gloves. Establish a protocol for which parts of the printer you want to be able to touch without gloves and never let any resin come into contact with them. If it does, use a UV-Light on the contaminated surface after removing it. Resin is no joke. Be safe people.
And open the damn water and IPA alcohol washing containers BEFORE handling the gooping build trays goddamit ! It's already messy enough of a process unless you also want to do it while rollerskating !
As well as gloves and a well ventilated environment I would highly recommend eye protection as well. Resin flicking/splashing into your eye is a very bad time.
According to Vaneloppe von Schweetz, cutting supports and rafts before curing the resin is easier. You won't have those issues of snapping anymore because the resin is still a bit soft.
Karto K BUT beware of warping depending on the model as the piece may still not be rigid enough or parts in tension can snap to a small angle without the rafting. As always risk vs convenience...
I recently saw a review of another Resin 3D printer on the channel Design Prototype Test. In this video you can see how someone behaves who ignores all the safety instructions in the manual.
DPT doesn’t “do” instruction manuals. He’s above all that. He’s a “FIGJAM”. What’s that? “F#@k I’m Good, Just Ask Me”. I find his rants irritating. Won’t watch any more of his videos.
@Nick F It is not the short term that is the problem. It is about long term use, repeated contact with the skin can create a sensitivity for the components in the resin and being exposed to the fumes can eventually cause brain damage. How fast that will happen differs from person to person. Some people are super sensitive, others will never notice anything.
@Nick F Not sure where your other response went, can't see it, only got a notification. But here is a study of the long term effects of chemical fumes (in paints and glues, the same components are also in resins) Occasional use generally is not going to be a problem, but if you make a long term hobby out of it, it is better to be safe than sorry: www.aan.com/PressRoom/Home/PressRelease/1285
What about glasses as well as gloves, I wonder the effects of getting a splash in the eyes and it soaks in then cures? You know someones going to sand a part with uncured resin inside and a dremels going to cut into it and they will end up with a eyeful. I maybe paranoid but I've become more cautious with age.
A silicon squeegee (like the ones used for car window tinting application) really works a treat to remove the excess resin from the build platform. Also, the are great for corralling resin spills...not that I know. By the way, thank you for pointing out the use case for resin printing. I read the posts of too many neophytes who think that a resin printer will do what an FDM printer does...and being horribly disappointed.
I know this is an older vid. But wanted to say when pouring your resin out of the tank, pour into a small cup and THEN into the bottle. That way you dont have issues with the filter being too large. At least until you 3d print a fix :)
At 8:25, at least. Until I started stepping through the frames, I thought, maybe, I was seeing things. That's crazy. Does Vanellope often make an appearance?
there is an advantage to sniping supports off while it is "green" . the resin is less brittle when green so the flush cutters will not introduce as much "shock" when cutting off the support.
how much each one , whats the cost of resign , do they all make a loud noise , have you ever printed something flexible , when you teach me you teach yourself , thank you
dro sky for flexible resin, use the Monocure FLEX100. The Anycubic Photon is 300 and the Photon S s under 500$. It has a big community, with tips and hacks, and spare parts are easily avalaible.
I was an early bird for this Kickstarter and I’m really pleased to see the first few hands-on reviews. I’ve been using an FDM printer for a couple years now and I’m looking forward to getting into the resin arena. Can’t wait to get this (noisy smelly) baby in my own hands.
Great video! I've been printing with resin for a little while now and I have a little bit of info that you said you didn't know about. As for longevity, I had an Anycubic Photon for about 3 months (but now have an Elegoo Mars) before I started having problems with the fan, then the motherboard, then the actual LCD screen itself. Anycubic, and from what I can tell most other companies, have a 12 month warranty that covers everything besides the LCD screen which has a 3 month warranty. That's because these companies regard the screen as a consumable, as they so often fail with regular use. They're relatively inexpensive to replace ($40-75) and easy to install. You'll notice that a lot of companies have videos on their youtube channels showing you how to replace the screen as well as the motherboard. That should tell you something. The 12 month warranty on everything else allows them to send you replacement parts that you have to install yourself. And I like to remove the supports before I fully cure it but after I do my first rinse. The small bumps and nodes left behind by the supports are much easier to scrape or sand off before the resin fully hardens and gets brittle. But to each his own! Then finally with the filter funnel. I purchased a cheap funnel from an auto parts store and I place the filter inside of that to prevent that overflow spillage. I lost half a bottle of my first resin after it spilled over the sides. Hope this helps someone!
Often it is easier to remove uncured supports because they are softer. It's a judgement call, you can remove them while the model is soft, but small thin pieces are more likely to break off. I will pull/snip off supports usually after an IPA rinse but before curing.
Great video! I want the performance but I'm wary of the stink and messiness, also the noise level on this machine puts me off a bit as I don't have a spare room or garage to put it in. But the results for the price is really impressive! The review gives me all of this, exactly what I wanted to know, so thank you :) I'm hoping for less messy and enclosed system resin printer models at this cost range or perhaps a tier or two above it sometime in the future so I can get one.
i really wish someone would make a sub 500 dollar larger resin printer. Surely all that's needed is a larger uv lamp, and screen? Something like the screen from a 9" tablet
The screen has to be at least 1080p or 4K for the parts to come out precise. A 9 inch screen in 4K would cost at least 150$ plus the drivers, screws, lead screws, motor, PCBs and many different factors. I dont think under 500 is possibile.
I wonder if you could take the rail system of an FDM printer and mount an LCD to it to combine the volume of FDM with the precision of Resin. You could use the software to have the screen scroll through the pixels as it moves, almost like a magnifying glass over a picture. Obviously speed is the major drawback here but if you have to make something very precise or without the problem of layer adhesion, then this could be a cheaper solution than a larger LCD
We need to combine the raw material side and the non mechanical guided development side of 'resin printers'. Not just general plastics but indeed metals and any combination of materials. We are actually pretty close to some genuine scifi stuff. I think a vacuum cold vapor deposition direction will get us there in first incarnations. It doesn't matter that it's a little elaborate or expensive at first, there is tremendous value in getting it actually right instead of ugly frail STM prints. Think of the power is being able to print a small jet engine and electric motor. Including all the structure, insulation and copper wiring. Or silver if you feel fancy. At cast strengths or better. You could print a functioning loud speaker. A good one. The best one. One so good that all traditional manufacture will be abandoned.
Seeing this cheap resin printer has me excited to see what will be coming in the future and I would like to try resin printing, but for an entry level hobbyist, it's still impractical even at 229, imo with all of the other factors taken in to account. You need to live in a sunny area or build your own uv curing box. You really need ventilation, and it looks like this machine does not come with any parts for that, I've seen a dangerous attitude in the community that if a resin does not smell it's fine to breath in, even non-smelly resins are still emitting toxic fumes. Respirators if you want to be really safe (especially when sanding). I'm not sure if you've covered this in other videos, but that uncured resin slurry also needs to be recycled at a center as hazardous waste, it cannot be poured down the drain or capped off and put in the trash (ethically at least). The resin itself is expensive, and more suited for jewelry or prototype casts for molds than making the usual desk trinkets hobbyist tend to print. All that said, I do think it's amazing to see SLA/resin printers reach these low prices. I just think the average FDM enthusiast does not really need an SLA printer or is going to prepared to do all of the secondary things you need to do when resin printing. (Outside my mini rant(?)) I actually just got my Mega S, setting that up soon! I'm excited to start my 3D printing journey. You, Angus, Thomas, Evan and Katelyn, and 3D Printed Tabletop have all been big inspirations leading up to me testing the waters, haha. Looking forward to more content from you and all of them!
Hi Joel, One comment, the 3DPN101 at 10:12 should read "UV wavelength depends on the LEDs (or light source) being used", the wattage of the LEDs has little effect on the wavelength and primarily affects the brightness (or intensity) of the emitted light. Nice vid.
Thanks for the review and the safety precautions! I'm very new to 3d Printing but have used resins when sculpting. It can be extremely dangerous if you do not take the necessary precautions. Anyway, just an FYI right now the Longer 3D Orange 10 Printer is $199 on Amazon when you click on the additional $30 off coupon.
Joel, try removing supports by hand under warm water, before curing (with gloves on), it works really well and you won't have little supports flying across the shop.
Another great tip I recently learned for washing is to use pickle jars (you can find them on Amazon), they come with a strainer inside which makes life a lot easier. I got mine for $4 each on Amazon.
Since the printer does a full layer at a time, the center of a non-hollow print should be solid, though perhaps not as well cured as the surface, since UV finishing light won't penetrate much beyond the first millimeter of the exterior. BTW, I have seen it on sale on Amazon for as low as $169 recently
Excellent Intro and video team 3DPN. Bottom line, no one RU-vid review of any product should be the final deciding factor to a purchase. We must all be responsible for our own research. Your videos are one small piece of that research. I waited over 3 years before buying my printer. I set a max price of about $4000 USD, but was looking for something much cheaper. I researched every printer in that price range available prior to making my final decision. Heck I even called Stratasys to see what kind of deal they could make a poor sap like me. Hahaha, no serious. They told me to go to a maker space. After all my research one printer stood out among all others which was the PRUSA I3 Mk3. Price to features nothing was close and I never regret my choice. It's a fantastic printer. I'd love to have a resin printer, but the nasty of the nasties still isn't fully known. I've actually developed an intolerance to the vapors that are given off from FDM filament. It iritates my nasal passages, throat and eyes. It's gotten worse over time. However I love this stuff so much I built my own 3D printing enclosure that captures and vents the vapors out of my house. It works wonderfully. My point? There is a lot more to this stuff than just melting plastic or hardening resin to create something. People do your research. You are responsible for what you buy, not some guy on RU-vid. Love ya man! #HighFive
How often can you reuse the resin before you need to dispose of it. Which leads to the question how do you dispose of the IPA you use to clean the uncured models, and how do you dispose of the spent resin?
what I would do is I would take a stainless steel bowl and make a reflective pedestal for the piece and then have a black light on top to bounce the light arround
Han_Solo_Order66 It's called a paint bucket UV oven :) Many DIYers are making those with uv lcd strips from ebay and a cheap rotating display tray. That's way less expensive than the insanely priced UV ovens currently on the market ! Oh, note you can also put your curing piece in a glass container full of water. The water inhibits the resin's goopiness and allows the part to cure faster under UV light.
We had this machine and the orange 120 at work along with a photon s, Uniz slash, FF Hunter, LD001 and the only one er couldn't not get a single success on was the orange 10! Their 120 machine is insane for the price and we use it all day everyday!
@@3DPrintingNerd Would be good to hear your opinion! In its current state it only prints over ethernet or WiFi, longer are working on firmware so you can print from a USB. A tip if you come to testing one over either of those, make sure you disconnect the machine/close the slicer as it eats up all the bandwidth and basically makes browsing the Internet impossible. Strange because it uploads the file to the machine first so whilst printing you are just monitoring the print but hey ho! Amazing printer nonetheless! Keep it up Joel! 👍
I use a disposable jaegerbomb cup with the bottom of the shot section cut out for draining my tank. Filter goes in the shot section poking through the hole where the bottom was, the shot section slips down in the neck of the bottle and the outer part of the cup serves to catch runoff if you pour too fast or it clogs and spills over.
You should use a cloth with alcohol and wipe the resin off the top of the bottle so if you leave the resin on the shelf for a while it won't harden and not allow you to reopen.
11:19 There is no advantage to snipping off the supports before it has cured. Thats like taking Ice out before it has frozen, thats like sitting on a bench with fresh paint and a sign that says wet.
