You made that look so easy , when I was an apprentice hgv machanic I got roasted , no one had time to show me again But watching your video taught me a lot on how to do it , Great work
Being an 8wheeler there’s not much danger working on the vehicle with that Jack,that being said prevention is better than cure and would have used a trolly Jack because it has a bigger lifting pad and if for any reason the vehicle moved the Jack would move with it against toppling off that bottle Jack letting the axle drop which might or might not have hurt you but everyone has their own way of getting the job done.
Well done, some man,you make it look so simple, bare hands a bit dangerous on that heavy stuff,rigger gloves are a great help,and can save a finger,saved my knuckles many a time,60+ and still have all thr fingers,even if they are a bit battered.!!.
Yeah it’s a bit rough on the old hands I can’t wear gloves I struggle to do anything with them on! Yeah kids think I have no feelings in my hands because I can pick nettles up bare hands 😂 cheers Charles keep up the good work pal 👍
I had a colleague that tried to put that spring back with the shoes already mounted :))) ... Every time he will look in the mirror he will remember that spring :))))) Happened on a Renault kerax
Scania drum brakes are still the most piss easy ones to do. The older Renault kerax was a right bollox of a job. Had to knock out a wheel stud to get the drift on the anchor pins. Thankfully its years since I was on the tools full time.
Yeah I agree the brakes have got easier in time, never done them but have done some that you have to knock out the studs to get to the pins! You must be old school?
Man rear axles you knock stud out and stupid torx bolts hold backplates on. One thing I would say though, stick an axle stand under axle, especially when beating wheels off. Not a health a safety wanker, just good practise. Love the fact you lubricate things, you need to tell some of our techs to do the same 😂
only one point mate you should not be working underneath with out correctly supporting the. axle I know it saves a few minutes but if jack fails which they do youknow the result
An old boy who I worked with told me when I did my first brake shoes, if you get your trusty tippex pen out and mark a line on the face of the pin where your notch is, it is a lot easier to line it up for your grub screw.
Been watching this channel from near on the start... 693rd sub to the channel 🙂 How did I miss this 1 ???? Well me & my boy are re-storing an old Bedford Cf 2 van into a stealth camper for weekend's & Chris bless him "Not That He Knows" is giving us an insight into tips & tricks on fixing her up, "yet" Im not sure how much he inspires others, as the channel should have 100k subs. Great insight for all folk on a budget .Great Man & Great Channel.
Asking out of curiosity, do you have to buy the whole shoe set? Becuase we own Astra trucks (now owned by iveco) and we only change the pads and the shoes serve quite a while From southern Europe
47 k views on this and 300 odd on the ones around it ...I reckon you need to do more of these Chris (A,B,C's of doing something)...... Mind you I love the style now to this .,.far more content and fun But , for your channel ......these make perfect sense 🤚🤚
been there done that you work on some shite i know what its like you deserve a medal but we never get any credit for the shit and conditions we have to work in like the videos
Nice one just done this today lol How tf are the 3rd axle slack adjuster fixed to the s-cam shaft? Does it have a cover for the circlip or a central bolt? I only ask as I’ve removed slack adjusters before but they’ve always have a circlip and these just have a cap (these are very very caked in concrete but i cannot make out any kind of clip) 🤷♂️😂
Sorry mate only just seen this! They’ll deffo be a circlip or bolt in the centre of the cam, I had a Daf the other day I had to remove the cam because the adjusters was buffed up to the diff... nightmare job, hope you’ve cracked it pal.
@@Professional-struggler cheers Chris buddy, they have a bolt through the centre with what I think is a dust cap, the bolt and recess was so full of cement and rust it took about half an hour to get it cleaned up enough to get the socket on it haha 😂 Still got a few jobs left to do on that old girl tho so we will be dancing again next week 🤦♂️😆 Cheers for the reply too buddy great stuff!!! 😉👍
Hello Chris mate, wondering if I can get some advice on a job? I’ve got some brake back plates to change on a Renault volumetric cement truck, and one is on the rear axle (these have hub reducers I believe) and two on the 2nd steer axle. Is there a way to do this without pulling the whole f@cking hun and half shaft off? The place I’m at doesn’t have wheel guns or owt so it’s a nightmare pulling wheels and hubs down lol 😂 I fitted one by splitting the back plate and fitting like that is that something you’d do? I’ve only ever done split backplates and I really don’t want to pull the hub off if possible 😂 Cheers bud
Yeah don’t do all that just for back plates! Cut them in half dude! Perfectly legal as long as there secure! Be legal without them but cement trucks get shit up! I hate cement trucks especially working on the back, good luck dude!
@@Professional-struggler awesome mate thanks for that, it’s a Renault too so I’m expecting huge ball aches coming from this one as it’s constantly on the go haha 😂 Much respect and many thanks Chris matey 🤪👍
Had a set n No amount of derv, lube, heat or 14lb help would shift them... ended up welding a frame n using a bottle jack to make a press..... the things we do not to take a reduction hub off 🙈
Usually have to burn the pins out or cut the shoe off n fuck the exchange up on volvo busses where the retarders were so good the shoes rarely got changed unless showed poor performance in the brake rollers
Do you always remove the wheels? I used to find it easier taking out the half shaft and wheel bearing and sliding the drum off with the wheels attached over a grease plate. Gave a bit more room around the brakes.
OK, that was one thing I was wondering with axles and 4 wheels (what are they called? Double axles?): were the brakes on the outboard or inboard wheels... Now I know :) Also, I was wondering: is there a TPMS on modern trucks and trailers? Given the stiffness of the sidewalls on the tyres, my guess is that you won't detect a slow puncture with the required visual checks...
no not as standard. and you can visually detect an outright flat but a slow pressure loss will only be caught by regularly checking tire pressure as any motorist should be doing anyway
