In this video I convert my 1/5th scale (Originally OBR Gas Powered 2 stroke) Losi 5t over to Electric with a Brushless Conversion Kit Losi 5ive-T Electric Conversion Kit - www.ebay.com/itm/Losi-5T-5ive...
You may want to consider putting some washers on the bolts that hold the motor mount to the chassis. It looks like it wouldn't be too hard for those bolt heads to pull through.
Do you really need to use the break rotors with any electric conversion? I'm doing a 30 degree North Conversion soon. Thanks bro for this.... Looks like a TON of fitment issues with this
No you definitely don’t need to use them….but it puts a lot more strain on the esc and motor to slow down an rc that weighs over 40 pounds like this…..glad you enjoyed the video man
Cant go wrong i have arrma traxxas losi team associated ecx redcat ect.. my traxxas are definitely more durable then my arrmas well were i sold the arrma lol. With that being said i have 3 dhk hobbies trucks i have a hunter bl sct running a firma 130a ecs and a 3674 2250kv. A zombie 8e stock A shogun 1/8 with a hobbywing sct 120a esc and a 3670 2050kv all running 4s and they are some of the most durable trucks i own.
You said Losi makes some brackets. Does this mean they make a conversion kit like this? Asking because I can only find a discontinued conversion kit Losi racing used to make.
I’ll save my money….I’ve actually got a bigger pinion to put on so that should eliminate the clearance issues between the rotor and the can of the motor
Sometimes changes don't go the way you want them to. But that's just makes it more complicated, difficult and fun,all at the same time. PS, could you grind the brake plate down? KEEP ON BASHING, OR RACEING. FROM BARRIE ONTARIO CANADA
Yeah but I wanna keep it…..using the esc and motor results in a lot more heat and strain……the esc and motor should be able to stay much cooler this way
@@RCKnockout Good to know. Did you ever figure out a fix for the battery tray? Sorry for all the questions just haven’t seen many videos using this kit and wanna be prepared for anything I may have to mod once I get it.
18t is a stock size pinion on a Losi 5ive-T….hence why I picked an 18t…..they didn’t specify what pinion size would fit……obviously you’d assume a stock size pinion would fit
I could be wrong….stock gearing made the most sense in my head to start with though…..maybe I am supposed to run a bigger pinion?…..I’ve seen a couple people run 22t pinion…..that’s what I ordered….my plans to put that pinion in it instead of this 18t
@@RCKnockout definitely 👍 the power instantly with electric and 2 stroke has to spool up , im going be replacing the engine in five t , its been a headache to run and tune , used be one pull and screaming all day . What you do with your stock motor ? Keeping just un case go back to fuel.
Yeah I wanna keep the Servo for braking….takes a ton of strain off the motor and esc…..the electronics actually get hottest under braking….especially with how heavy this truck is
@@RCKnockout on my 1:5 FG 4WD car build, I only brake with motor, the esc do this easy because i took the right ratio pinion- main gear, my gears going nowhere- they are tight on the axles :) mybe take same locktite
Quality comes in the aging of the aluminum, not the look of the machining. You can have the best machining quality in the world but won't be worth a damn if the threads pull out on the first run. Aluminum is actually very weak until the materials are aged to 6061 or 7075 with a tensile strength of T4 or better. I personally couldn't ever convert my 5ive T to electric. I don't care what system is installed in one, getting the run time of the gas engine is impossible.
Didn’t know that….thanks for letting me know…..to all their own I guess….I can run mine in so many different places once it’s converted over to Brushless…that’s why I’m doing it
@@RCKnockout I consider the 5ive T to heavy to run within a town or a village especially around small children cause they always want to be close or try it so for me I'm not concerned about the noise. Even some of my smaller ones that would only do like 35 mph max like my Losi DB Pro on 2s I wouldn't let a kid use. I've got 16 RCs total and half of them are electric anyways is one of the many reasons I wouldn't convert any of my nitro or 2 strokes. The only reason I know anything about aged and non aged aluminum is because I used to make aircraft parts for the military and commercial companies. All of our aluminum products were aged according to customer specs, structural were aged to 7075 and non structural were aged to 6061. 24 hours at typically between 275-350° would produce 7075. Typically same heat cycle for 6 to 12 hours would create 6061. Aging cannot be done until the material is heat treated which is around 20 minutes at 1400° and put straight into a freezer to be worked. There is also a natural aging which means the product once worked just stays on a shelf for a week. The aged products then undergo a tensile test where a "coupon" is cut from the same material and undergoes all the processes (aside from forming) the product itself goes through. Aluminum that hasn't been heat treated can be "ripped" in half by hand. If it has been heat treated and not aged, shouldn't have threads cut into the material without a injection mold of steel or brass into the hole. Obviously there are far stricter specs for aircraft than for RC, but a lot of the two coincide when it comes to hardware usage. This is why you don't find many threaded holes in chassis or shock towers for RC that aren't in 6061 or 7075.
@@SebastianLong interesting….well I know that they harden steel by heating it up and putting it in oil or water or something along those lines……must be very similar for Aluminum…it’s not coated in anything though, right? Just heat cycled?
@@RCKnockout Dipping it in oil or water comes after taking it out of the heat treating oven. We used water as oil can catch on fire at temperatures we heat treated some products at. Similar process for both, yes but most metals don't need aged like stainless or plain steel. We did age some titanium but that was to give it a higher tensile strength close to that of inconel. Inconel is the hardest man made Metal and it consists of titanium mixed with nickel. Most aged products need to be free of any oils or impurities like fingerprints and is why products are acetone cleaned before both heat treating and aging. Sometimes the products will also go through a acid bath and a "molten salt" bath before moving on. Obviously those processes are more meant for aerospace than it is of concern in RC.
@@SebastianLong yeah it’s probably not as crucial when it comes to rc parts compared to Aerospace products….you learn something new everyday….thanks 👍😉
