The only hard job on my Buick was the rack, the darn steering Colum splined connector took for ever to get back in, working on the ground. This was one year latter after I took it have the rack replaced. It only lasted a year then leaked. Lifetime garneted but they wanted 750.00 to put it in. Upon removal the tube between bellows was never connected on the right side letting water in and rusted the piston shaft and damaged the seal. The place I had it fixed was bunch of crooks. Tires Plus!
All these repetitive videos about replacing the forward control arms. But the rear ones bushings wear out just as fast, but not one video about doing those. Have you ever done the rear?
@@TheDisgruntledMechanic man! Do you know what that bolt is called? Ive been looking and looking for a replacement bolt for my car, we may have to cut the bolt out..😒 its...just bad.
The reason I found this video of yours is because I was told both of my lower control arms on the car are worn out and need replacement. I don't disagree with that. But they estimated a big price. So I wanted to see what was involved to do the work. Oddly. It wasn't the ball joint to the wheel end. It was a bushing at the frame end. It was obviously torn away from the arm. I think it has been like this for almost a year, based on feelings in the steering wheel. Is it ok to let it ride for another 5k miles? I mean. It's not like it's going to break off like in those Russian dash cam video? My car is at 176k miles on It. (Impressive for a US made car.) It's time to replace it and i need time to solve that.
I'VE BEEN DRIVING ONE FOR 6 MONTHS WITH A BAD FRONT BUSHING. I TURN WRENCHES FOR A LIVING AND HAVE BEEN TOO BUSY TO FIX MY OWN CAR. HIT THE BRAKES HARD IT VEERS TO THAT SIDE. USUALLY IT'S THE DOUGHNUT LOOKING BUSHING ON THE FRONT OF THE ARM THAT'S BAD. IF SO, MOOG MAKES A REPLACEMENT BUSHING FOR THAT. YOU CAN AIR HAMMER IT OUT{SUPPORT THE CONTROL ARM WITH A JACK} OR USE A BALL JOINT PRESS TO PUSH IT OUT AND THEN TO PRESS IT BACK IN. THIS CAN BE DONE ON THE CAR. NO REMOVAL OF THE CONTROL ARM NECESSARY. SAW A VID ON THIS SOMEWHERE. GOOD LUCK, HOPE THIS HELPS.
Good job. We don't have weasels in Australia so we use possum piss, it works well but not as well as the fully imported panther piss which I think comes from Russia. Were you gruntled before you became disgruntled?
You should never tighten rubber bushings while the suspension is decompressed. You will put the bushings into a bind just as soon as the car will be on the ground. You need to tighten the nuts loosely,lower the car on 2 by 4s or similar,in case there isn't enough clearance otherwise to get to the bolts and tighten them.
After wtching it again you are correct I did say tighten the sway bar links up even though I should have said put nuts on loosely and drop car down as you said. That was a bad edit and mis speak on my part. Thanks for calling that out.
OK had to watch it again. yes the back bolt I should not have tightened all the way up before I jacked up the control arm but the other one was tighten while the control arm was under pressure from the jack. So yes I did tighten one too soon.
I will be totally honest that was 4 years ago I honestly can;t remember. Sometimes the whole control arm and ball joint assembly isn't much more than a ball joint and the labor so I replace the whole unit. Or it could have been bad control arm bushing. Just don't remember, sorry.
Haha you had me dieing 🤣🤣🤣🤣 with the start of your video because I just finished smoking a joint and had a beer in my hand halfway done. As for the garage being messy it doesn't matter as long as you know where everything is at. Thanks for the video it helped a lot
What can you do if u cant get the bolts in the new control arm? U made it look simple but mine is being a bitch..and I had to take all suspension out put new rack in finally...so trying to get all other installed so I started with control arm and cant get bolts in🤬
I gave up working on my van 12-15 years ago when I found a 3rd generation backyard mechanic, besides I got tired of changing the plugs on my astro van.
I see they sell the large bushing for the control arm separately. Have you ever attempted to replace a bushing instead of the entire control arm? I’m thinking it’s a large bushing that would require a fancy homemade tool or an arbor press to remove it and press in the new one.
so what happens if you do tighten the bushings with no load on them, cause I've done it in my early years of turning wrenches and never had a come back.
from my experience and talking to some mechanics in the business for many years and that have done many more than me, almost nothing. it can put a tear or small crack in the bushing but not much more. If someone else can contribute and give examples of what major event can happen from this, I am all ears.
oo what did you do (not say) during the hour removing the rusty bolt? How to handle things that do not go well is what it's all about. Keep up the good beer!
heat, hammer, weasel piss, repeat until it came out. Do you think I should leave that in in a condensed version? Most people that do not live in the rust belt would not have to worry about this procedure. Thanks for asking
I zip tied mine too since the ones that came with the Dorman abs wire harness were bigger than the holes in the GM control arm and I didn't feel like getting the drill out
This video was very helpful to me recently when I did this same job on my 2000 Century. And I too, had a real tough fight with that vertical torx head bolt. I kept soaking it with PB Blaster, and made a press tool with a C-Clamp and a large socket that straddled the torx head. I laid into that with all I had, and it would not break loose. Then I had to face up to how I'd probably have to get a cutting torch, I didn't know if my sawzall would work. But I removed the clamp, squirted more PB Blaster in the rusty, seized bushing and bolt, and tried again, really cranking down hard. Finally I heard that dramatic "CRACK", and I knew that meant I either broke my press tool, or the bolt finally broke loose in the bushing. I was lucky, the tool was OK, and the bolt had finally broke loose! So I too, know the fight these rusty bolts can put up! I really appreciate when mechanics like yourself share experiences, tips, know-how and shortcuts, thanks so much for sharing!
And when I refit the new bolts, I most certainly brushed them all down with neverseize. I know it may be that they could (rarely?) work loose when lubed with neverseize, but I think I'd rather do a periodic check and retighten, than fight that rust during the next removal. I do live in the rust belt, road salt can flow freely during certain snowy, icy winters. But recent weather events prevent me from saying "I should move to Texas or Florida, no road salt"
I have had people scream at me for using neverseize on certain bolts but they do not understand the rust I deal with! no recommendations from me! do as you see fit.
