Hey everyone, John Baker had a really good suggestion below...Roll the edges to increase rigidity. If anyone tries that let us know how it goes. Thanks again John!
How about a second plate (flat) to attach to the bottom (like the wood one)? Sandwich them both together at the back mount plus a pair of vertical bolts just behind the MagnetoSpeed to clamp the front. Use jam nuts and washers to give the vertical bolts rigidity and the V3 should stabilize.
That's a really good idea! The sad part is that I'm going to get my Garmin in the next week or so, so the poor MS will be relegated to the shelf! Thanks for watching my friend!
Thanks for idea of a mount made from aluminum but I used steel instead. I bought a 1.25" wide x 1/8" thick steel bar stock for $11.00 cdn. and cut a piece 12" long , bent it by hand and drilled two holes in one end. Then I used M-Lock screws to attached this bar directly to the underside of my Chassis forend and attached the MagnetoSpeed to the bar stock after I cut/filed off apprx. 3/4" on the chrono to allow it to be closer to the barrel. To hold it in place I initially used the supplied strap and then 2 pieces of Gorrrilla black tape wrapped around bar stock and the sides of the MagnetoSpeed. In the end the MagnetoSpeed is attached very very solid to Chassis and next to no vibrations all for approx. $3.67 plus labour. Very easy to install and remove. 😀
Ahhh nice suggestion my friend! You're right, that WOULD strengthen it. I just made the 1/4" model and it works great! Thanks for watching John AND the great suggestion! shoot straight!
POI and harmonics were exactly the thing that gave me pause about buying my Magnetospeed but I got it anyway and was intent on working with this obstacle. This is the solution! What a great implementation for this product. Outstanding piece of gear! Ty!
Great content ! Like you mentioned, the pocket book is limited for some of us. I'd rather spend the money elsewhere and if I can fab this I'm ahead, elsewhere. Thanks.
That's a fantastic idea. I have the Wiser and its the latest generation. I am doing something wrong with it, because it didn't pick up any shots so I took it off until I could figure out what is mounted incorrectly. Wish I'd found this prior to purchasing. If there isn't much difference between the two mountings I wouldn't be concerned. The main reason for differences could very well be that the chrono is acting like a tuner on the end of the barrel and causing a shift in harmonics causing a slight speed increase.
Hi P Stewart! Yeah, even though this thing "whips" a little, I've had no difference between my readings and my buddy's Lab Radar. Thanks for watching my friend!
Great idea very informative video thanks Just ordered the arca rail So you’d recommend slight thicker 1/4 steel So that’s 6mm to stop the whip Ps every one has a draw with 10k”s bolt in screws in 😂
Hi Shootit! I would recommend the thicker bar...And, if you have the means (router with the right bit or a cnc), I'd rout a groove so the magneetospeed stays straight on the rail. But it's worked well for me as is so far. Thanks for watching my friend!
Hey Matt! Thanks for the kind words and hope it saves you some money. I built another version with 1/4" thick aluminum and it's even sturdier than this one...Just remember to use a torch to heat that thicker aluminum up before you bend it or it could break on you. Thanks for watching my friend...Shoot Straight!
Steel elastic modulus is 29,000,000, Alum. is 10,000,000. Make it out of steel same dimensions and it will be ~3X stiffer. Dip the construction, except for mating points, in the goop used for making rubber coated handles (Plasti-Dip), to provide damping of residual vibrations.
@@jaredhontz8895 Hi Jared...It was a pain to bend, but just use a torch and go slow. Also need to get longer screws (about 1/8" longer) to tighten onto the arca rail, but I like it much better. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Jesper! Just created another item that should save us between $30 and $300 on a phone scope mount. I'm just trying to spend my money where it makes sense. Thanks for watching and the kind words my friend!
Those look like M-Lok slots on the sides of the hand guard. There is no rule that the Magnetospeed needs to be underneath the barrel. It could be to the side. How about: an M-Lok picatinny rail attached to the left (or right side); an inexpensive 1" QD scope mount; and a short piece of 1" OD metal tubing/conduit to extend near the end of the barrel. I think a piece of pipe/tubing/conduit would vibrate far less than the aluminum bar stock. It will probably cost slightly more than $20, but definitely under $40. I'm also looking at a cantilever version of an M-Lok Picatinny rail, but I don't think it will be long enough for the Magnetospeed to reach the end of the barrel.
What rifle is that? I have a Savage Elite Precision in 338 LM and I was looking for something along these lines when I came across this video. Great idea though. I'm going to take it and run with it.
HI Brett! The rifle has changed since this video as I've bought a new stock from Manners. But, the rifle in the video is an Impact Precision Action (737R with Trigger Tech Diamond Trigger); a Preferred Barrel Blanks barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor 1:8 twist; a MDT ACC Chassis; a Zero Compromise scope; and an Area 419 Sidewinder muzzle brake. I have a video on the rifle as well so please look it up. Thanks for watching my friend!
what happened at he range with the 1/4" flat bar ? on another note LabRadar is coming out with a LX model which according to reviews so far is superior to the Xero but then again the LX is made in Canada and the Xero is made in the Taiwan I think. .
Hi User! I did make a 1/4" version but never did a review on it. Worked well until I bought the xero, which I really do like a lot. Will be interesting to see the LabRadar model and I'm sure it will be very good, just not sure how many people will jump from the xero to LR, but we'll see. Thanks for watching my friend!
Hi Glenn! I got sidetracked and didn't update the design. This one works great for me so I've stuck with it. If I ever clean up my garage (not today at 101 degrees outside) I'll probably use that thicker bar that I do have. I'll post an update then. Thanks for watching my friend!
Hi Anthony! This allows me to shoot groups without the magneetospeed interfering with barrel harmonics, thereby saving me ammo. Thanks for watching my friend!
Hey BigBen...Look at this from Amazon...would probably work fine: www.amazon.com/Monstrum-Tactical-Picatinny-Keymod-Adaptor/dp/B01N2UW2KH/ref=sr_1_56?crid=4JZQYVD52JFQ&dchild=1&keywords=picatinny+clamp+mount&qid=1628542617&sprefix=picatinny+clamp%2Celectronics%2C175&sr=8-56
Hi AZ! You'll need to get the right base plate to mount to your pic rail. I purchased an ARCA plate because that's what my rail is. Thanks for watching!
Hey Randall! Yeah I agree and good point. I might look at a direct connection there. I generally check the strap after every 10 shots or so, but would be nice not to have to do that. Thanks for watching and the great comment!
@@The4GunGuy Yea check out the group.. some ideas that may translate on how others did it.. but also many of us make a fiberglass or delrin rod to slide in and use as a quick reference to check and set the distance to the bullet path.. which is critical and over time its good to check it... every so often or you might get an error reading in the middle of your 50 string load development work.
