I really like and appreciate the longer video format, and the informative tip and tricks. Thanks for the great video Chuck. Love to see a follow up video on how you make the frog.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply 8:27 You can add a leather washer behind the rivet that is still on the inside of the liner and install it so that the inside has no metal. Then you have strength and craftsmanship.
I was given a 1918 Australian bayonet, with a leather scabbard. 5 years later I met an Australian man and gifted it to his dad to hang on his wall. Always pay it forward.
The material you made the insert from is called hardboard. You could also use polyethylene. Cut it out and smooth the edges a bit. Completely waterproof, lasts forever.
It took some time because of me being unexperienced, but thanks to this tutorial I just made my first own scabbard! It works well! Thanks a thousand times!
Thank you so much, I've been trying for months to figure out how to stitch this type of scabbard, over lapping, stitching at 45 degree angle, etc, etc. I knew there was a better way, and it probably would be something simple I was just overlooking. Sure enough, wet forming it after stitching! Wow, such a "duh" moment. But this is why I love leather crafting, there seems to always be one more trick to learn. Again, thank you, and happy crafting.
Re treating edges: I like to rub beeswax into beveled raw edges(after dying) and using a slicker to "melt" the wax into the edge by friction. I've done this on belts, holsters, sword scabbards and knife sheaths . It gives a nice smooth look, and also waterproofs the edges. YOUR thoughts on this?
This is exactly what I needed. I wear a kilt almost everyday, and I often wear my basket-hilt backsword along with it, however I have never liked the black leather scabbard that came with my backsword because I cant stand wearing black leather in the daytime. I am old fashioned and I only wear black leather after 6PM or for dress occasions. For daywear I will only wear brown leather. I had a Scottish cross-belt sword belt duplicated in brown leather from one I already had in black leather, however it always looked off when the black leather scabbard was placed in it. Now I can have a black set and a brown set, PERFECT.
Wish I had found your channel sooner - I used to joust professionally full time, and having some custom scabbards for my swords would have looked great on the field!
Hey, thanks so much. I used your tutorial to make a scabbard for a small sword. It's turning out pretty good, a bit rough in spots but it fits like a glove. I molded the triangular blade using your wood method but clamped dowels on top to press into the hollow ground portions. The seam on the back put enough pressure to fill in the hollow ground portion on the back. It looks like a scabbard I saw in in the musee d'armee paris-- very slim simple black leather scabbard for an officer's smallsword that was molded into the triangular shape of the blade. Thank you for the quality tutorial!!! Superb effort, I love you creative folks sharing your knowledge and skills.
This guy is great in so many ways. Great lessons and always a joy to watch him work. I met him at blade show and he is super nice in person as well. I told him mostly thanks to his vidoes I now make my own sheaths and I showed him photos of a few. I am sure he gets that a lot but he seemed very happy to hear that he had inspired and helped in such a way. Looking forward to more projects for sure. Thanks Chuck!
Chuck, you rock bro! I've learned so much from your videos, thank you! You know your craft inside and out & your a very good teacher. Every time I need some help or know how with leather, I go straight to your videos. I'm going to screen shot your portrait and print it on iron-on printing paper then iron it to the front of a black T-shirt with the caption saying " Chuck Trained" or something witty like that. I'll post it on Pinterest or something. Thanks again!!! DGD 💥USMC💥
This is precisely what I needed for the Scottish dirk I made, I really have no way to easily make a brass throat and tip, this looks great and is way easier to make!
Loved watching this... and have a couple of tips that may enhance this a bit... first is the Frog... as you have a Sam Browne post on the sheath... what about putting in a Buttonhole Punch hole on the first strap of the sheath... that way you can capture the sheath with that, and drawing and re-sheathing the blade will be a lot easier... secondly, if you put a 1" to 1 1/2" band of unwashed sheepskin in the throat of the sheath, maybe even matching the overlayed throat piece and stitching it in following the overlay shape, it will do 2 things... first it'll hold the blade in the sheath more effectively, but secondly, it will clean and grease the blade as you insert it and pull it out... that layer of sheep's grease on the blade will ward off rust the natural way... I do Viking Re-enactment in the UK - the guy that made my sheath used the wool trick and it keeps the blade in pristine condition... every now and then as the sheath gets older, you can charge the wool with a few drops of olive oil or mineral oil to keep it doing it's work, and although we wouldn't use Sam Browne posts, I know of frogs from the medieval times and onwards that do have the button hole in them to capture the sheath... nothing is new under the sun, as they say... ;)
that was a great tutorial! thanks much for it. I honestly wish I would've seen that 2 weeks ago when I was making a sheath for a dagger. I had to reverse engineer one on a previous dagger to (more or less) figure it out. End result was one that looks very similar to this tutorial. sure wish I woulda known earlier. Awesome job too!
thats a beautiful rapier and dagger set. once again thanks for the video, i have made a few scabbards in the past but always learn something new with these videos!
I'm very slowly working on an Aragorn costume and wasn't too happy with the sheath that came with the ranger sword. Look forward to remaking that. Just need to figure out how to stack the little knife on top now. Thinking just cut a slit and gluing a thin liner piece behind that maybe? Probably test that before going full size
I really love this guy's enthusiasm, it makes me want to try this style of sheath for the next knife I make. I also really like these videos, because they show beginner leather smiths how to use their tools. (Ps. Is it leather Smith or something else?)
Just about to fall asleep and what do you come along with? An absolutely awesome instructional video for something I was just thinking about doing. I didn't know how I was going to get to sleep without watching this, then I saw the length of the video. Anywho, thank you for making these instructions, for making them easy to follow, and for having the same interests. Appreciate all your videos.
Very nice. I have been trying for a long time to figure out how one would put that spleen in there. Now i know. I should have asked you first. Thanks. You make it look so easy.
I can’t even begin to say how much these videos have helped me advance into this craft of endless possibilities! You make every project seem so approachable for someone who has only been doing this for maybe 5 months. Thank you so much! P.s. maybe do a frog/hanger for sword and dagger scabbards next?
Great video! Chuck is an awesome teacher! I've been wanting to make a scabbard like this but didn't know where to start. Definitely going to try one this weekend!
Hey, I love this project! I was wondering if you could go over how to trace for a cut out at the top of the shear? I tried doing my own, and only got it on one side so my dagger doesn’t go all the way in, could use some advice or a tutorial on how to measure for the cut in
Well done as always Chuck here in California we are out of luck on daggers not allowed you we might cut our selves twice but you can go down to home depot or low'es and buy what is called a utility dagger for cutting insulation . Oh what would we all do with out big brother watching over us . Happy trails
Thank you for another wonderful video, Chuck! Always love to learn something new. As a suggestion for a future project, I would love to see an instructional video making a pair of leather boots. Hopefully not outside your wheelhouse!
Loving the videos and the positive attitude, Chuck! Do you think the leather balm would hold up to the daily use in a restaurant setting (on a sheath for a chef's knife)? Or would something waterproof like resolene be a better option for that particular circumstance? Thanks for sharing all your crafting wisdom!
Funny you should ask! A Chef’s Roll is on the list of future project videos. One of the most interesting things to me is watching a kitchen staff move. Truly amazing, unfortunately, that’s one of the places where my best input is to stay out of the way! Kitchens are wet and leather is porous, so, the Resolene is good, but, it’s impossible to get a finish on the top grain, edges, back, chisel/sewing holes…and water will always wick in somewhere. I may say go with (not a sales pitch but I know both work pretty well) the Bickmore Gard-More Water and Stain Repellant, or, the old school Snow Proof Original Waterproofing paste. We sell both and these will give the roll the best chance with liquids.
Because all daggers are the same? cx He shows you how to design it for YOUR DAGGER/sword. He explained why he add size for bends/spine/leather thickness. The one part that different is your initial trace of the dagger
Dang it! Got the leather and the tools. Now i just have to buy a dagger and a sword. Guess it's only peanutbutter sandwich without the jelly for 2 months! Thank you Chuck!
If you place the button stud between the sheath and throat layers would it not be possible to use a thin aluminum plate between the layers with the screw one side of it and the throat layer on the other side of the plate. It seems to me that it would amount to a large washer that would strengthen that area of the sheath.
You say in the video, "About half the tools we used, we don't need." Do you have a video showing how to do any of these steps without the single-purpose tools that you're using? I saw a video of someone using a drill rather than a punch, for instance. Are there other easy substitutes like that? This will be my first project and I don't want to buy a lot of tools unless I decide it's a craft I want to continue.
Chuck, interesting point about “FROGS” . In the Steel business they make a “FROG” which is a steel an electric switch that’s used on Railroad Tracks to switch a rolling train from one track to another track. I guess you need to get your “FROGS” straight! Richard
I enjoyed your video it has been very useful and informative. I have a quick question - would it be possible to make a scabbard with soft leather then harden the finished product, or is it better to harden the leather prior to making the scabbard
Hi there, It would be better to form the scabbard and then harden it. I'm not sure what kind of leather you have that soft, but veg tan is going to be the only type of leather that you will be able to harden. Check out this video to see how Chuck hardens leather by baking it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hwGW_qwpxYs.html
Love the video I do have a question. I would like to try to have the main body a contrasting color from the throat and the tip, would it be possible to dye them before gluing together?
If I wanted to make the throat and tip a different color than the body, are there any tips for that? I've heard wet forming after dying doesn't work out so well
Beautiful Project! What changes, if any, would you make to the scabbard if your Dagger was sharpened? I know a welt is added for a knife sheath to protect a side seam, but with this seam in the back, no need for that. Would you bump up the leather weight or will this weight hold up for a dagger sharpened on both edges? I'm thinking of a shorter dagger, legal length, of course. Thanks so much for your amazing videos, I'm always inspired!
So glad you’re happy with the video! I’ve gotten this question several times and I am sorry to say that I only have two options. Sewing on both sides with a welt is great, ample options for decorating, is easy to line up, easy to add multiple colors, stamps, and tools without issue…but, that makes the scabbard almost 50% wider in many cases. The width, to me and it sounds like to you, just makes the scabbard too wide and if that’s not the way you want to go then a full or side only insert with a material like Kydex may work (haven’t tried this yet). These would glue in pretty well and can mold down to fit the bends in the scabbard. Another option is a wooden scabbard with a leather overlay. The wood form is pretty easy to make with a jigsaw, plywood and a good rasp and it doesn’t have to look great, the leather will cover it. This also has some good options for multiple colors, spots, lacing… See if any of this helps?
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thanks so much. Yes, I didn't want to widen the scabbard and I like the look of this back seam. I'm going to add a Bronze tip and decorative band at the hilt. I think I'll try the Kydex first, in a simple knife sheath with the back seam, and I'm pushing it further, using a more supple leather than I've used for any other sheath, just to really give that Kydex a test. Why not? Have you made a vid about the holder for the sheath? Again, thank you for your amazing vids, it's a pleasure to get that notification!
8:27 You can add a leather washer behind the rivet that is still on the inside of the liner and install it so that the inside has no metal. Then you have strength and craftsmanship.
Loving it as always Chuck. I'm a Fiebings guy myself, tried a few other brands and results aren't quite as satisfying. Couple questions about the scabbard. Got a claymore that could use a new scabbard; Steep guard and deep plunge (3-3 1/2) on the inset (mirrored both sides of the blade). Would this be a problem with this form of scabbard? Second, curing on scabbards, yes or no?
Hi Jason, The claymore with the barbs is tough but, without, I don’t think the deep inset will be an issue if it’s measured pretty well, and, the outside edges can be rounded a bit to allow for the deep angle on the guard. It may be a good idea to just make about 5” of throat as an experiment and see how that fits and holds up. This will really give you the chance for a good measurement with a pretty tight fit. I have never baked a scabbard. It should work nicely (if you have a big oven), but, one of the things a leather scabbard has over a wood scabbard is that it can bend without breaking and hardening it may crack if it’s ever bent hard. I have stepped on a few scabbards, sat on a few…and a wood one would have been destroyed but the leather is no issue. I hope this helps!
Great thank you. Working on a new style of bracers and then a helmet (think i may have figured out how to get one made). After that I should be able to get started on the sheath.
Do leather scabbard’s shrink? Because I made a black semi basic scabbard for a Spaniard rapier two years ago and it appears that it shrunk in size. How would I stretch it close to how it was?
They shouldn’t shrink, not sure what’s going on there. Not knowing if it’s a side sewn or traditional it’s hard to make a call. It may be possible to re-wet the scabbard (if it’s a veg). If you could email us some more information that would be great. Send to: retail@weaverleather.com ... What is the tannage and construction type? Photos would be helpful too!
Chuck I'm sorry to bother you like this but I'm making two fillet knives as presents and using your style sheath for them. I have a Rapala fillet knife that I got 55 years ago in Canada (at that time you could not get them in the USA) and it has your sheath style. One this I notice about 3/4 of the way down the sheath it has a piece of plastic or wood to keep the shape. Have you seen this or done this before. again thank you for your time.
I’m not sure if I’ve seen something like this or not. A leather covered wood scabbard is one of the easiest to decorate, and most beautiful, but I don’t think I’ve seen one where the wood is more for support. Do I have that right?
@@WeaverLeatherSupply yes you do and I just finished my first one on the fillet knife and it turned out outstanding. I tried doing this before but I was all screwed up and seeing how you do it makes great sense and makes it easier to do..thank you so much. P.S. needed more 2/3 and 3/4 leather but you were out of the 2/3 shoulders so unfortunately I had to order from another source and their leather just doesn't match up to yours. Ugh next time.
Back in the middle ages what did they use for gluing leather? Square knot is left over right and under then right over left and under. That's how I remembered it anyway.
I’m not really sure. Glue made from horse hooves is an old school glue but I don’t know how far that goes back. Cool question! I would love to know (it’s’ probably some very gross recipe!)
I'm guessing they probably used some combination of a pine-tar and hoof or hide glue, or possibly bitumen (asphalt) from a petroleum seep or tar pit. Those methods go back to pyramid times.
