Good to hear it is clear of the handwheels! I have thought about this for my mill, but handwheel clearance is my main concern, as I like to leave my vice handle on. (No where handy to rest it)
If you feel like making the handle feel a lot more snug I'd suggest using a ball bearing detent or 2 and all of it will feel more comfortable drill into the side of the handle Use a ball end cutter to Partially penetrate the side wall of the socket but no go all the way through - make sure a lip is left Find a ball bearing the same size as your ball nose cutter, this will seat against the lip we left earlier Thread the top of the hole - create a grub screw to enter the thread Now all you need is a spring to finish up The grub screw will retain the spring and ball bearing under tension against the lip left by the ball nose cutter - you can tighten down the grub to adjust detent force and you now have a spring loaded detent to remove any slop in how the handle feels
I'd maybe drill / tap a hole, where the socket and hub meet, then run a setscrew down it to lock it in place. Gently hammered in place press-fits, especially where one side has a hard chrome plating and mirror finish, aren't going to have a lot of friction and will spin fairly easily, but time will tell. The knobs came out great though
Nicely done. The only difference I would have made is to press the socket in after the welding/brazing so as to keep whatever hardening the socket has. Being that it’s a twelve point and pretty thin, I think that otherwise, after a time, the points will wear away. Maybe a six point if you have to replace it.
Good video. Thanks. Everyone has ideas about this and having made a couple of these I will throw in my "two cents" worth, because .... RU-vid is where we learn, and hopefully you will one day get some bigger machines and do this all again. But first you really need a BANDSAW! LOL. I chose to use a larger hub and thread the handles into it. Looks better and you can remove them if you need to do what I did: Make them long as you did, and then if you need to, cut them down. I cut mine down twice, till I got them at a length that I liked. Too long and you might over-tighten your vice. It is possible to break the import cast iron. A set screw can back up the press fit. A second one can fix it to the vice screw or use a hitch pin. Before doing that I knocked the handle off onto the floor dozens of times. You also may not need to cut down the socket if you use the large portion for the press fit. If you use a "Deep" socket, they don't usually have a reduced portion. Regards
I wonder how much force the press fit will hold up to. Don’t you need to tighten stuff harder sometimes? I would have made a really tight press fit and freezed that nut / heated the outer part to press it in. Or even welded it. Or do you think that would be way overengineered?
A fair point but if it ever becomes a problem he has 2 easy options 1. another cheap socket sized a few thou bigger on the OD 2. A strong retaining fluid like loctite 638
Good thing to point out but it won't be an issue. When I drilled the 3 holes.for the handles I drilled into the socket too, the handles once seated are locking the socket thin place. As such once it gets soldered some solder will flow down into the join at the bottom of the hole for a bit of extra strength. Cheers
When he was starting one of the cuts with a triangular file, I thought he was going to snap it like glass tubing, I was a bit disappointed when he switched to the hacksaw.
you need to make a thread cutter holder that sits in the drill holder and can be turned with a ratchet :) always centered and perfect threads. if you complete it i will buy it :D
quick tip for drilling: you should only pre drill past about 10mm drillsize and when you do use a drill that has about the same diameter as the 'soul' of the big drill( this is the inner part of the drill where there are no flutes yet). Its always tempting to predrill bigger holes but in end it will only cause the dril to chatter
Usually, but on small machinery like this you don't usually have much of a choice when it comes to drilling large holes. The machinery just isn't powerful enough sometimes to do the optimal methods, so you gotta make some concessions. And for the most part, the low rpm kept the chatter to a minimum. Cheers
I enjoy your projects, but I wish you would get something better than a hacksaw to cut your parts. If I were you, that would be the number one machine on my list to buy.
Free machining steel, which I made the base from will cause issues and cracking with most welds due to the lead/sulfur content, thus brazing is a much better method, though I dont have MAPP/ oxy to braze with.
Really enjoyed going through your videos this weekend... thanks for the effort. I’m looking to order some metal to make my own speed handle - already watched your clip on ‘where to by in Aus’ which was a great help. Just wondering what steel/metal I should be using for the hub & the columns? (Already decided on brass for the knobs). What kind of steel exactly did you use? I heard you mention it’s a machining, non leaded steel, but I’m new to this, not sure what that is. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Nickolas
Holy crap, right out the gate with hardmilling that socket with a parting tool. Yeah, I too enjoy waking up and eating a heaping bowl of caltrops for breakfast. Wow.
If you removed that step from the back of the socket and pushed the socket all the way to the front of the 40mm block you might have got more engagement and the spin handles won't cause as much of a turning moment to pull it off the vice. My solution was to resort to a ring spanner that has served me well for the last 18months.
You can, but you would also have to make the the base hub about 4-5mm smaller as it would run into the flange at the base of the vise, its not a great angle but you can kind of see it at 3:52. Personally I like having the sort of back stop of the socket, and seems to work fine, but its always going to be up to personal preference when it comes to these little details. Cheers
I guess you are the best guy to ask, with as much as you do. What kind of hack saw blade are you using? And I like starting out the cut with a three sided file, great idea!
I use Sutton's all hard HSS 18 tpi blades. Slightly more expensive than the bi metal ones but certainly worth it. I used to use the cobalt ones but they are too brittle for general work.
Good thing to point out but it won't be an issue. When I drilled the 3 holes.for the handles I drilled into the socket too, the handles once seated are locking the socket thin place. As such once it gets soldered some solder will flow down into the join at the bottom of the hole for a bit of extra strength. Cheers
Artisan have a HUGES question Does your mill have column flex when using a facemill as I get flex on my mill but is the similar to the RF45 mill but just one of those clones And my facemill is a 3 tip brazed carbide
I tried this handle and it didnt work for me because it was hitting the handwheel for Y axis because my vice is set far back to maximize working space. For me, nothing will work as good as original wobbly handle. I have nearly identical mill by the way.
Sorry to hear that. My speed handle has greatly improved my time with the mill vise and is a great addition to the workshop. I do have quite a steep angle on my handles to avoid hitting the handwheels though. Cheers
@@artisanmakes our material was low grade too, holes up like 4140 as far as we're concerned, just drill, tap and thread lock it and it will be good as gold!
Have you considered this design for a handle? On one hand you have to switch holes for speed or leverage but it takes less space. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tUJbz9Ih13Y.html
@@artisanmakes I got you I don't need to tell you what to do but for me in that case I would have made the hub a bit larger and threaded both ends but anyway I like your videos I will continue to watch them and I've learned a lot from you thank you very much
@@ray8916 No worries, best part about DIY is you get to do it differently for what suits. This style best suits me and the vise, and the materials I have on hand. Cheers
Threads would be a bit weak to use on this low grade mild steel rod. It really doesn't bother me, but you can always do different if you choose to make one yourself. Cheers EDIT: In any case, the tacks are temporary until I can get them brazed in.
