it's whatever you have handy. most any aluminum will work. trick is to get the right mesh(es) to classify the filings. 80-120 mesh (or so) for sparks works well. We have learned don't allow the "big chunks" of aluminum to get mixed into the primer compound. We have learned if a "chunk" of aluminum get between the nose of the anvil and the primer cup a ftf (fail to fire) can occur.
Wouldnt it be easier to put aluminum foil into a thrift store bought blender? It works pretty good. Can also do cans with the tops and bottoms removed.
What do you think about using 50%/50% magnalium(MgAl) powder as a replacement for aluminum powder? In just 4 or 5 hours in the ball mill, a very fine powder is obtained.
You would think this would work great. Afterall - magnesium is used for making sparks with firestarters and such. Unfortunately - we activate the primer compound with water. The magnesium will readily react with water to form two materials. One of the materials is called magnesium oxide. Unfortunately - the magnesium oxide will suck moisture right out of the air ("hygroscopic"). This moisture will actually deaden/kill the primer compound in the cup. Stick to aluminum. It's very easy to obtain and it works great! rumble.com/v10hnmr-making-aluminum-powder-the-easy-way.html After you make a few batches and prove to yourself that eph 25 works then feel free to experiment with various materials. Report your successes and I'll help share your findings. Other materials successfully used are copper (harvested similarly from copper wiring) and titanium (just buy it).
From Marshall Yes, ETN should work as a replacement for NC. It may not take as much in the formula to give equivalent performance. So, some adjustment may be needed if the primers end up being too hot and try to back put of the primer pocket. Regarding TATP, I have no advice. In the 120+ years of primer development this chemical has never been used to my knowledge. As inventive as the primer companies are, I don't think this is an accident. Might be great, but they are on their own if they try this one. Marshall In other words... TATP .Do NOT try it. Do NOT. But yes on the ETN.
@@coyotexpl1507 I have been thinking a lot about your question (about ETN). I'd like to recommend that you use the NC that is called for in the recipe before you start making substitutions. Prove to yourself the recipe works as-is first. Make 'say' a couple of hundred or so and get comfortable and confident (even excited) that the recipe works and then start making substitutions. That way you have a base-line in which to improve. Marshall's manual is full of recipes (actual primer recipes) that work. It is color coded "green" that it works. "Muli-colored" where is the recipe did not work (at first) but he tweaked the recipe and he Made it work. "Red" where it's a primer recipe but he could not personally make it work. In other words - the recipe needs work/further research.
@@coyotexpl1507 join us at primer reloading on MeWe. You are describing either Eps 5 or EPM 8 (my fav). Nothing weak about either and lead free. The expense ain't an issue (to me)... it's going to be relatively cheap per primer. I don't think you can out price tag on freedom and independence from the crap. You'll have primers at your disposal .
