@@robertomontanez3085 Use this link ffperformance.co/product/pd-tuning-2015-2020-ford-mustang-ecoboost-custom-tune-for-cobb-protune-accessport-3-lifetime/
Hello, I’m wondering if there are another modifications that you would recommend be added when adding the turbo to keep the car alive longer. I would like to add the turbo alongside the modifications you suggested but keep the car as my daily (using 93 octane), would that be possible or am stretching? Thank you!
Thats still awesome numbers most people get caught up in huge fluffed numbers. With that 10 speed auto and turbo that doesnt die off past 5500 rpm with the tuning to tie it all in i bet it will be a handfull with the right fuel/tires at the track I bet it could get into the 11s.
I really love the sound of that exhaust. One I've ben looking at to replace my AgencyPower exhaust. And yes, the NX2 is a monster. I ended up making 402whp and 436wtq with VP M1 methanol. I want to go over 600whp... HPFP, EFR turbo and built block are up next for me.
I’m about to get a custom tune, moshimoto downpipe, catch can and intercooler, as well as a borla atak exhaust for my 2021 ecoboost. I’ll probably see if I can do a bigger turbo in the future, but with the parts I’m getting, would you say expecting about 110-120 addition horse power is expected (depending on the tune ofc)? I’m really excited to get this done and want to know if I’m making a good decision
Hey bud! My main performance mods are; Upgraded intercooler, Mishimoto Downpipe , MBRP cat-back, & a custom tune by PD So on stock tune I get about 260-278~HP estimated by my cobb give or take (weather, tires, gas, etc... lead to different estimates) On a custom tune My estimates jump to 330 HP and 400 TQ @ ~25 PSI of boost My personal takeaway, If you're getting this as a daily i'd stick to doing a big front mount intercooler, and your choice of catback as its a best bang for your buck. if i could go back i'd only do intercooler and Tomei catback. However, if money is no issue go FBO and tune lots of fun driving around. especially no cats and a burble tune hearing the pops puts a smile on every time. also on stock tune my MPG was 30 avg and on the tune im avg at about 22-25MPG on 91 Pump. & the biggest con is losing warranty and risking EcoBoom once tuned. I'm not affiliated with full race, just putting my 2 cents out there, Best of luck bro
Sadly no. 91 with FBO is going to yield about 310/390 wheel. Again, don't let the numbers discourage you as the car is completely different with these mods. Please give my team a call tomorrow at 480 576 8606 and they are more than happy to provide you with factual info!
From one ecoboost owner to another: A TurboSmart wastegate actuator is ABSOLUTELY necessary. The OEM wastegate actuator is complete trash and it WILL fail and it could damage your motor. Beyond that, absolutely get an intercooler, I had the ETS now I have the CVF street. These 2 mods are not something I "recommend" it's something I'd say that is required to make the car perform the way it's supposed to. Personally I wouldn't waste money on a Borla exhaust for an ecoboost, it will do literally nothing and it doesn't sound great.. If you want more noise just cut the mufflers off and leave the resonator on for more noise with minimal drone. I've heard MBRP, Borla S, custom single 3''.. The only one that sounded different was the single exit.. everything else sounds pretty similar to just a muffler delete. If you want even more noise then go straight pipe from the catback.
Hey I’m also a ecoboost owner. Just wanted to give you my 2 cents. Unless you want to race or have bragging rights for power I wouldn’t worry about going FBO. The car is very quick . The motors are reliable but only if treated with extra care. I also agree that an intercooler and tune are all you need to tune. But we all know we like to amp up the fun factor. A simple muffler delete and resonator combo will sound best. Even the stock resonator and muffler delete has the deepest / nicest sound. I can really vouch for that after months of research and actually going through with it. I recommend a BOV as well. an actual bov not just a spacer or adapter of some kind. Lastly I’d get a catch can but it’s up to you. I personally daily the car so it’s an important factor in reliability
Where are you guys located? I'm looking to upgrade my 2018 ecoboost mustang with this turbo/ bigger fuel injectors/ intercooler/ and possibly a e85 conversion kit
@@khris1107 There is a point and one good point is people down talk 4 cylinders so bad when a 4 cylinder can do just as much as a V6 and a V8 money can make a car do what you want and it feels good to show people that you just got gap by a 4 bagger you think about it what the diff the car 30,000 put 10,000 in it same as a GT why not do it I just got my ecoboost mustang I love it and would love it better if I did this to show people you got gap by 2.3 4 cylinder mustang What they say you didn’t spend enough 😂🤷🏽♂️
That's nice but at 400whp these blocks are known to crack. Coyote with intake headers and tune makes almost 600whp. And that's not even stressing the engine. Coyotes are known to hold over 800whp with just fuel and a Whipple supercharger.
Okay, thanks for the info. We ran 450 WHP for almost 4 years with no issues. We understand the Coyote is a great engine and we own GTs, you're watching an EcoBoost video.
@@FunctionFactoryPerformancelmao great way to respectfully say “fuck you dumbass you missed the point of the video” 🤣 love you guys. Great video, keep up the awesomeness
Hi mark, give us an email sales@ffperformance.co Call 480 576 8606 or visit this link ffperformance.co/product/ffp-2015-2022-ford-mustang-ecoboost-gt-killer-kit/
Bought and installed the CV Fab street intercooler, excellent quality. Install took about 5 hours without removing the nose. My buddy and I did it in my home garage on ramps to start then lifted my HPP Ecoboost a bit higher and placed jack stands underneath. For safety we left the ramps in place, safety is king.
405 is less than a stock V8 puts down, the few hundred pounds less curb weight won't really make up the difference. If anything is just as fast after dropping thousands of dollars.
Nope, too much cylinder head pressure at the boost levels needed. An EFR would get the job done but it wouldn’t last a minute beating on it. at the end of the day, the block is just weak, it’s not Honda level which is what we all want.
Yes and no, it depends on getting a "deal" on a GT, as your initial investment is higher than an EcoBoost. An EcoBoost with simple mods can take a 2015 to 2017 GT; the 2018+ GT models really stepped it up with the 10 speeds bridging the gap a little wider, even with an NX2, the EcoBoost will struggle to keep up on pump gas.
Ecoboom is the cringiest thing on this planet to be frank. Catastrophic failures are caused by numerous of things and I can tell you first hand, most failures are from stock turbos making large amounts of torque too quickly in the power band Also please remember, I don’t know what “a lot of” stories means to you but there are a million of these cars out there. An enthusiast group is usually made up of maybe 5000 active members. This car have just as many failures as other manufacturers. Things like this are nothing new in the car world.
@@FunctionFactoryPerformance sorry, when I say lots of stories I do a lot of forum reading, as well has a few friends with focus RS and ecoboosts having cyl walls crack and motors breaking. I have a GT and ecoboost but been scared to upgrade the ecoboost. Might just be first hand experiences that freak me out. But I’d love to put a turbo in it, but had been advised to build the motor first. Im sure majority of people run heavy tunes and mods and they are just fine on stock motors.
From a finance standpoint, the 2015 GTs can now be had for around 22k vs a 2015 Eco for around 16 to 18k The payment difference would be less than $70. At this point, in all honesty, purchasing a first-generation S550 GT is now the way to go.
Watching a few videos now.. and not even close to getting my mustang, But.. tbh.. seeing modding etc.. makes me realize very quickly.. it gets expensive, YOU will run into problems and to always check your parts.
That's a great question, depending on who's doing the work, the cost is about the same. If you had a shop do the swap, the NX2 would be cheaper in the long run as it is bolt- in,.
All that money dumped in on an unreliable ecoboost motor... What a waste of money. All the money spent on those mods, You can get a same year GT, with a CAI/Catback/Tune annihilate the ecoboost.
Not to mention the massive insurance and fuel costs to go GT over just upgrading an ecoboost. If you plan to live at the track, sure spend the extra 5-10 k for the car, spend the extra 1000 a year on insurance another 1000 extra a year on fuel costs (Minimum) And thats for a BASE model GT. Get one with the same options.. add another 5+ K. And then still have to spend another 5-10k if supercharging to get it to run faster than the lighter ecoboost. To each their own. Not everything is about displacement in 2023. I have a 4g63t thats 25 years old that can run with GT's on the highway without breaking a sweat. Grant it the block is more bullet proof than apparently the open deck of the ecoboost. But it's all about the tune, fuel, and the driver that matters the most after tuning and upgrading my own cars by myself mind you over the years to make them reliable. And should you blow a block.. its a lot cheaper to replace than a coyote block, which blow all the time too.. again caused mostly by bad tuning and bad drivers.
Im really new to tuning cars, so far I'm going to swap the exhaust for an mbrp race... and next will be a bigger turbo.... but I'm curious as to how reliable my car will be after swapping the turbo, since its my daily driver and I do about 70 miles every day. I've heard people blow the engines on these.
It's fine or we wouldn't sell or write or create an entire documentary about this turbo. I'm sure those ppl aren't giving you the full story on how their engines "Blew Up"
Let me say that if these guys are mechanics, then they would have known taken the O2 sensor off. You had to heat up the pipe to expand it to get the O2 sensor route easy he crossed, threaded it by taking it out with force Jesus, Jesus I was on the edge of my seat watching these guys cryinghere we are watching these guys put this stuff on and they didn’t know that
unfortunately i blew my motor at 70K miles FBO, on E30. to be fair ryan did warn me of the results if we continued to throw power. would you say the NX2 is safer for the car to run in a way? got another motor in with 30K miles on it, but looking to purchase from yall.
@@FunctionFactoryPerformance sounds correct. thank you. planning on ordering from y’all. would i need the coupler or is it actually just drop and replace?
Hi Marissa, we have packages built out in the back end of our website. Give us a call at 480 576 8606 to discuss this further, as there are many options.
Never really heard any performance exhaust that made the "right sound" for the 2.3 L motored Mustang. Until someone create a decent flow performance exhaust system with a decibel close to the stock OEM exhaust system , I'll stick with the original OEM exhaust system. The 4banger sound from a car like the mustang, just seem too odd for me. And all the road blocks these professional people had to deal with to get the desired horsepower is just too frustrating for a do-it-yourself gear head, like myself to make this an at-home project without an extra car transportation car at your disposal. Make more sense to just save a little extra money and have a reputable performance shop do it all for you!
Very wrong, that's old school thinking. Boost increases compression which makes power, but higher compression will allow more torque and less spool time.
@FunctionFactoryPerformance thanks for the info man. I always thought higher compression was for nitrous builds. I'm about to do a turbo k series build. Will order higher compression forged pistons now and see how much of a difference it is! Thanks again
That info can be had on our website www.ffperformance.co Turbo is 2k Intercooler 500 Charge pipes 200 Bov 200 Downpipe 250 Exhaust 1000 Tune 500 Cobb 550 Catch can 700 Intake 200 ish Install 1000 About $7100 give or take
What is Ford going to do about the valve issues, due to the lack of port injection? I read somewhere Ford might be upgrading the new models. They need to.
The 2024 Ecoboost mustang will have port and direct injection from the factory, but until those are released, there are methanol injection and port injection kits available on the market
I don't disagree with this at all. The issue is the initial price gap between the Eco and GT. That is exactly how ppl get into modding the Eco at the end of the day.
I just realized I skipped over this, here is the breakdown. FFP NX2 Kit $4279 Tune: $650 Cobb: $600 Tomei Exhaust: $1250 XDI HPFP + injectors: $2748 Catch can: $699 Labor not included $10,226 To do some simple math, currently, an EcoBoost costs about 20k A GT costs about 30K, and both cars with low options. 10K to beat a Mustang GT isn't bad. If you were to really shop a GT, you could get a better deal but a very low option car with high miles. At the end of the day, it's what your wallet can afford.
@@FunctionFactoryPerformance gotcha. I’m just lucky. Hahahaa. Even though we don’t have an Ecoboost anymore, I’m still loving these vids. Great job, man.
We’re happy to make it happen, all we need is payment of parts and labor and we’ll even send a truck to come get the car Feel free to email chase@ffperformance.co to get the process started
@@FunctionFactoryPerformance I have a supercharged one and it cost me 6000 for the kit and supporting mods and I installed it myself. Mid 600s RWHP 9pounds of boost on the ESS G2 120mm pulley on pump 93. Gonna upgrade fuel system for e85 soon. Nothing wrong with the Eco boost, but against a boosted GT it'll be lights out.
