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That should actually be easier than you think. All he'd have to do is, neutralize the acid (and that might not even be necessary) then use the resulting liquid as an electro-plating solution. No need to extract the Zinc first.
I really appreciate that you haven't changed how you operate in these videos. Stripping zinc off a chain? No fancy vent hoods or anything just a bucket outside. Really makes me feel like I could do these projects and makes what you teach connect easier to me.
I think youre almost at a problem thats common in DIY and our society at large, we tend to think 'whats the best way to do this?' and the restrict ourselves to doing just that without considering there is probably a much more accesible, less resource intensive and cheaper way of doing something.
The problem is the people who make these videos are usually highly educated in the field and know how to do it safely. Even if it looks like they're doing it in their back yard. Many things aren't explained because it's not entertaining or they do it subconsciously. This video is more on the side of doable though.
I should add, you can do pretty much anything at home that's where most of this stuff was invented but definitely do independent research. Make sure what you're doing is safety, learn how to dispose of chemicals properly, and make sure you have multiple sources outside of just RU-vid videos.
Imagine being in the same state as Cody and wanting to get some 2/0 chain “Damn this Walmart is sold out, maybe I’ll try this other one” “Them too? Damn lemme try another” 10 Walmarts later “What the fuck, who is buying all this chain”
When Iron is heated it's grains takes on a variety of crystal structures at different temperatures, if allowed to cool slowly (annealing) the metal reverts back into it's plastic pliable form, when heated and quenched suddenly it locks the iron into what's called face-centered cubic lattice locking all the atoms in place making the metal harder.
Yes, but actually no. It's not getting locked into face-centered structure, you only need that because of its higher solubility for carbon in that structure. You can tell from hardened and tempered steel being magnetic, while the face-centered structure is non-magnetic (see stainless steel with high nickel content).
1. Heat steel above certain temperature 2. Steel becomes austenitic (face centered), which has high carbon uptake 3. Quench 4. Iron rapidly reverts to body centered crystal structure which has lower carbon uptake 5. Carbon atoms don't have enough time to diffuse out of the crystals since diffusion is a rate and temperature dependent process 6. Carbon is forced to stay inside of the body centered crystals and creates compressive stresses, which increases hardness
Never knew how much I actually needed a Chain-Chainmail blanket , Reduces my anxiety of from constantly thinking people with sword cannons are gonna get me in my sleep and doubles as a therapeutic weighted blanket. Can't thank you enough Cody, your doing Gods work.
Codys Lab is the best youtube channel, especially among the makers. I love how he just does whatever he wants, its always informative and fun to watch, and there's never any filler or clickbait. And he's just an awesome person. Thank you Cody for all the great content over the years, I will always look forward to your videos.
I have to admit that I sometimes don't understand half what he's talking about. But for about 10 years I'm enjoying these videos like no other. They leave you with a special feeling behind.
Need to put a cloth backing on it though for sure, chainmail loves to pinch ya. Most weighted blankets I've had use steel shot. This one might end up a bit too heavy to be safe lol
Well, this is pretty much how anthropologists and archeologists identify where the smith's house of a settlement was. The soil samples and residue metals, coal, slag, etc.
Hey Cody, when you're quenching the material, it's better to move it up and down in the water, because if you just place it in the water bath the immediate liquid around the hot metal will create a bubble of vapor around it which will prevent the water from being as effective as it should quenching the material. This is what many smiths are taught, so if you watch videos of them forging things, this is why they sort of bob the material in the quench bath.
This is far more of an issue for an oil quench than a water quench. Yes, the steam jacket forms in both quenching media, but water vapor is still very heat conductive, and will therefore still cool the metal quickly. The Grossmann H-Value (a measure of quenching intensity) for water without agitation is 1.0, while the same for oil without agitation is 0.25. An oil quench with violent agitation (which is beyond what most smiths will ever do, and probably impossible to even achieve with a workpiece as large as the one Cody was working with here) is around 0.8 to 1.10, which means that the highest cooling rate possible with oil is roughly equivalent to the cooling rate of water with zero agitation. Extrapolating this principle, an oil quench with moderate agitation (which is what most smiths will use), with an H value of 0.4 or so, produces significantly slower cooling when compared to a non-agitated water quench. Moreover, using water AND moderate agitation produces an H-value of 1.3, while strong agitation has an H-value of 2.0, and violent agitation can get all the way up to 4.0 - all of these options cool the steel far faster than oil ever could, and thus the more you agitate in water, the more likely you are to risk shattering your workpiece.
For the love of god, people. If anyone tests chainmail, put padding under it. You never wear chainmail without padding. It is both for comfort, and is also an integral part of the defense.
Silks were used to fret arrow heads where weight considerations forced looser weaves. Still, almost always cotton pads for cooling comfort and shock absorption.
@@johnbennett1465 Probably for monetary reason. I guess some people could either afford a gambeson, or a chainmail, and had to choose. I'd go for the chain as well. Sure I might get pinched and bruised, but at least I won't get stabbed or slashed.
@@Ydnar1155 if i remember correctly he did monetize his channel at some point long ago but youtube seemed to absolutely hate his guts back in those days, constantly demonetizing, age restricting and sometimes even deleting his videos. at some point, probably during the ad-pocalypse, he just stopped trying to monetize his video probably becose it wasnt worth his time to try to make everything ad friendly just to still get demonetized for no reason. he might not even have reactivated ads, the ad PG-Shaun saw might be placed there by youtube and not cody, and if thats the case he does not get ad revenue from it, youtube takes it all. now he makes his own money with sponsors and patreon and thats much better than having to deal with adsense's tomfoolery for an income
Chainmail binding is so therapeutic. Like sit in a sofa with a bucket on your left, bucket on your right and just adding bit by bit. It's fun. Better than TV, that's for sure.
@@michaelroberts1064 Yep, that appeared to be standard oxyacetylene welding. The torch melts the base metal and the rod provides filler. The burning gas produces carbon dioxide that provides some shielding to reduce oxidation. It's a fun process, quiet and calm, but not quite as clean as TIG.
@@dave7038 thanks for the explanation. there's a lot i don't know about tools and how to make things, but i'd really like to learn more, and i appreciate it when others share their knowledge.
If you ever want to do something similar to torch welding but don't have access to a torch and gas bottles, you can do something similar with an AC arc welder if you make a holder for a couple of carbon rods called an arc torch. Generating an arc between the two rods will produce a sort of flame that can heat metal without consuming an electrode or creating a deposit like stick welding. I've done that myself, and while it is less controlled than using oxyacetylene, it is great for doing torch style welding or for heating up metal to red hot. I bent a piece of cast iron using my home made carbon arc torch.
On the plus side...you would never really need to make like, thousands at once. Most likely blacksmiths/armoursmiths just made square patches like Cody did in between jobs, keeping themselves busy, and building up a supply to make a chain hauberk or shirt much quicker than if they started from scratch when someone ordered one.
@@dposcuroPlus chain mail was super expensive, even after plate armor was invented. It would probably be akin to buying a car nowadays. You would be pretty well off selling one as a blacksmith. Most footmen relied on cheaper gambesons, which was much easier to produce and required no smithing.
Cody's Lab. The channel where you can find pilot mars experiments that help NASA. And medival chain mail all in one place. I love this channel, Cody you've taught me a lot about chemistry and industrialization. And I wanted to say thank you for always making videos about stuff that you like, instead of trying to appease the youtube algorithm. Keep doing what you love
I'd argue your metallurgy isn't 100% sound but your concepts are right. In short, while carbon molecules are relevant, tempering an annealing has more to do with the alignment of crystals in the metal matrix. When metal is hot, crystals align themselves with each other. When cooled slowly the crystals can form or settle in a random configuration. When metal is cooled quickly, the crystals are all remain aligned making them strong. Cooling in Water can be problematic compared with cooling in oil. But it can be done and without a doubt the additional annealing worked great for chain mail armour. Great Video.
11:00 cavemen used to cook like this before they invented containers that can be used to boil the water directly. they heated rocks in a fire and placed it in thier water to boil it. when i saw the amount of water compared to the amount of steel i expected it to violently boil for quite a while
You can also make a ribbon of Euro 4 in 1 by twisting the 2 in 1 chain until it binds and then linking open rings through the top or bottom (whichever side is lacking the rings in the binding pattern.) Could help save time in future endeavors, since you wouldn't have to cut and reweave so many rings.
Not sure what you mean about twisting the chain, but he definitely could have reduced the weaving/welding time if he left 2/3 of the chains intact. (Not that the actual weaving was the time consuming part here.) Instead of opening 50% of the links, he could've only opened 33% of the links, reducing the amount of welding by a third.
@elongated_muskrat_is_my_name No. Instead, it would form the bottom and center of a single ribbon of mail. It's hard to explain in the context of a comment, as it involves some visuals. I might make a video on it sometime.
I'd have put one arm of the bolt cutters in a vice with the other arm upward when cutting the links. This would eliminate the unsteadiness of the bolt cutter, reducing the risk of injury.
Make friends with problem solvers. They complain less and find solutions to problems or answers to questions, instead of sitting there complaining that life isn't fair. Cody's an absolute unit. Great video, as always.
this channel is my alltime favourite no matter how i may change i think i’ll allways whatch these videos, thanks for all the great stuff cody! ❤ edit: the chain chainmail looks great!
love ur videos only 1 question tho why did u go to walmart for chain why not a hardware store u prob paid 2 or 3 times more then u should have for it would have been cheaper at a hardware store buying in bulk
Mail means 'Chain' so most people are mistaken when they call it 'chainmail', that's like calling it 'Chain Chain', but yours is actually made from chain so it's probably the first true Chainmail or Chain Chain.
Oh this was a collab with the Waterjet Channel too?! Nice! Was that your initiative or theirs? Either way, great to see that things are looking up for you again!
That's pretty cool! I bet the hardening and tempering really made a difference to usefully tough the mail is at actually stopping stuff breaking it or getting through. Hope you got some oil or anti-rust protectant on it though, looks like some sections are already rusting.
Before I ever paint galvanized steel I always swab the surface with a HCL moistened rag for proper paint adhesion. Hardened and high carbon steel rusts slowly. 1005/1020 steel, CRCQ steel & low carbon steel will rust quickly. The chain mail skirt on my suit of armour has flat links probably so the weld joint is over-lapped, heated, & pounded to fuse the joined ends together. Back then there was no oxy-acetylene torch & filler rod to weld links together. I would never have the patience to make chain mail. With that said I commend Cody for doing all the work on this video.
