This is a mini movie showing my progress in making the Number 6. A wooden gear clock designed by Clayton Boyer. www.lisaboyer.com/Claytonsite/... you can get the plans from him at this address.
Thanks to you I have now completed 4 clocks by cutting the teeth on my bandsaw. I would NEVER have thought it possible to do on a bandsaw and would never have tried it but for your posting. I bought an expensive scroll saw for this but I simply cannot control the cuts. Using a 1/4" metal cutting blade it is simple and the cut is so clean I can even cut the line out with the bandsaw. As for the bottom of the teeth (dedendom) I bought several sizes of rotary spurs from CARBIDE TOOLS FOR INDUSTRY INC in Santa Ana, California but only use two of them....the Double Cut 3/16 (SKU BUR001-12 144-SM) AND THE 5/32 Double Cut (SKU BUR01-10 144-SM) for the 3rd wheel and the minute wheel. Thanks again! Tom
Great, it's a cool clock to make, Laser Cutter nice, wish I had one of those, maybe when they bring out more affordable 3d printers I'll have some fun with that. I hope your project works out well for you.
I'm starting to make the gears. My band saw doesn't like me, so I had to use the scroll saw, but that's OK. Cut the teeth leaving the line. I bought a Harbor Freight 1 inch by 30 inch belt sander. This is well worth the $45. Also bought 320 grit sanding belts at another store. Do not get anything coarser. Finer if you can find it. This is fast, accurate and beyond easy to finish the teeth. Do all of one side first and than the other side. The backstop for the belt is about 1/16 inch thick, so you can get almost to the bottom of the sides of the teeth. Adjust the belt to just past the edge you are sanding. Again, you need a belt sander. Yes, I know it's a Harbor Freight and will take more time to get it set up than the clock you are making but you cannot imagine how easy it is. No, the HF sander isn't that bad. This is my second clock, so I speak from experience.
thank you so much for sharing this. i am in my last year of high school and for my Design and Technology final major work i have chosen to make the number 6 clock. we are very lucky to have a laser cutter that our school bought for us, which means cutting the gears is 100% precise, however trying to redraw all the gears and wheels onto autocad exactly the same that is on the sheets is just so FRUSTRATING! haha! i cant wait to get them all cut :)
Thanks, I'm in the process of making another video for the Number 6, it's really a follow up and goes through some of the things I had to do to tweak the number 6 and my experience with other clocks to help them run.
The way I do it is I make copies of the pages and the ones that go off the page. So two copies of the same page offset. Then I use either a light box or a window to line up the the two photocopies and tape them together to make one page.
The Plans are Clayton Boyers, I'm sure if you gift them to friends it's ok ok, I'm not sure about selling them to companies you have to check his website or contact him through his website.
When you get the plans From Clayton Boyer tobuild his clock design he gives you a cutting guide to cut steel roods and brass tubes they are the arbors and spacers. hope that helps.
Of all wood working book I have read, this “pepe amazing plan” (Google it) is the best. My woodworking teacher recommends it to all of his students. I`m astounded by the level of detail the authors go into topics. The tutorials are clear and easy to follow, the material is fascinating.
Be aware that some laser or inkjet printers don't scale 100% drawings accurately. More annoying is how some clock designers think that you don't need dimensions at all since they're supplying 100% full scale drawings. If that's the case, how do you know whether your printer's "100%" is true? All you can do is confirm via other known dimensions. In one set of plans I had to set scaling to 91% to end up at a true 100%.
it depends, prices vary where you live and availability, If you go for straight plywood, I'm guessing at least 100 dollars depending on materials where you can get them maybe more, Hardwood extra. but it's gonna last a long time and you will make mistakes so you need extra wood and metal stock. I just bought something per month and worked that way. Man hours are definitely not included. But it's a cool project.
Ukuloonie thanks for the quick response. I have an ample supply of Russian birch ply. I was just wondering about the other parts. I have a CNC so I could cut everything on that... if the included kit has included dxf files. I’m guessing the kit gives a list of all the metal parts and where to get them?
@@terryjones8360 I'm not sure if you buy just the paper plans that it includes the dxf files, You could send an email to Clayton about that he's generally amiable. I know that the printed out plans have a sheet of 1:1 where you lay the brass tubing and rods on the print out paper or you can measure and cut to size. I bought the the hardware from an aircraft hobby store which had the sizes I needed. The best drill bits which I found to cut dimensional holes accurately are the Brad points from from lee Vally tools. I guess with a CNC you can get good results.
