Super detailed. Good to see aussie giving super detailed info, yeah not the most exciting thing ever, but if you want to know specifics great video, i’ll be checking out rest of channel and probs subbing
@@benjamin4331 Hi Ben, the program for the CAD is Sketchup and I use a screen recorder called ActivePresenter to record the animations and the audio. Hope this helps
I would have liked you to mention where your starting point for the stud spacings begins. I think people might think they should start from the end/outside of the plate.
Hi, thanks for your comment, you can start where ever you like as long as you don't exceed the maximum spacing. I would also be worth taking note of where your bracing sheets are going to go and place studs th take them so you are adding extra studs later.
Yes, good point, if you are constructing a Brick Venner house then the brick gauge must always be considered. Looks like i will have to do another video to address this oversite. Thanks Julzmma
windows are a great place to join wallplates. it is solid gets nailed to the timber lintel. only problem is building the window out of two seperate walls but thats fine i just join the two walls plates on the ground and build it as one wall 😅
thanks mate love your work mate been watching your videos since i was 18 chippy apprentice chullora tafe recommended your videos. im 28 now and ive learnt alot watching your videos
I dont understand the secondary jamb studs went inside the window opening making the opening 70mm smaller than what we set it out to be. Even though we set it out according to the window schedule opening size Thanks in advance
Hi Masi, the X is usually used to indicate the side of the line that you don't want or the waste side however, in this case, it is used to show which side of the line the stud would go on. Hope this helps
Thanks for the video. How would you go about finding a starting point when setting out the wall plates on the second story of the house as it is too high to work off hurdles
Hi Regan, For the second floor I would just plumb up of the outside of the lower frames and then measure off the wall thickness to get the inside of the external walls and work from there. If all is well then you shouldn't even have to re-square you lines however it is always worth a quick check.
Hi Mate, no they don't, the slab itself is actually a termite barrier. There are systems out there that can go under the wall frames however you are then going to punch holes is it when you fix the wall down so this will make is less effective.
Do u add to this measurements how muchore or less for interior walls measurements u add an inch and three quarters back for wall studs what's the measurements for interior walls extra measurements
OK so what your saying from your e.g. is i come in 90mm then the length of the room 5250mm then 90mm is that correct ? i just dont understand why the they put 100mm on the plan when you dont get dressed timber 100 mm . john
Hi John Yes that is correct however if the plan says 100mm for your wall and you are using 90mm timber you will have to do a bit of recalculation for your room sizes. There are still 100mm Hardwood around for framing but everyone tends to use the 90mm MGP instead (cheaper, easier to work with etc)
Man, if you didnt already know what this guy is struggling to explain than youd have no clue what he is muttering on about. Well, hopefully he knows what he is talking about. Yet another waste of time on youscrewd!
