Cheers Alex, I'm in the middle of a DIY garage conversion and so far I have learnt everything off RU-vid! Plastering the walls has been by far the most difficult part, I used this video and some of the "Plastering for Beginners" to learn how to do it and I'm really happy with the results. This is a great tutorial, I like the hints on when to do what... I haven't seen anyone else doing that. Thanks for helping me on my DIY journey.
Addicted to yours and Blains vids, been in the trade for years doing it traditional but you can always learn new things, but the last couple of months have been quite expensive for kit lol. Keep up the good work.
Spot on....exactly what I needed, managed to plaster a room successfully, speedskim is a game changer, your videos show you've a natural ability to teach. I teach engineering and served my time in industry but now get paid for what I know, not what I do, consider teaching in the future even if pays worse, it's very rewarding, keep it up !
Another fantastic video! Once again thanks fir sharing your knowledge experience expertise and information I especially liked the close up it really showed the technique what you were doing and explains alot as so many videos don't do that so its difficult to see thanks again keep up the great work!
Saved to my "property" playlist for later reference. I've done a couple of walls in my previous renovation but am not 100% confident yet. Having recently bought a house to renovate I am looking forward to getting some real practice in! Your walls look incredible mate 🙌
Hi Alex. I am a firm believer that there is always room for improvement. On that note I have applied for techniques from this video and I can't believe the results! It's given me a much more relaxed approach and my plastering has taken on a much more professional finish. Can't thank you enough for the quality of this video 👍🏼👍🏼
This has to be the best vid I’ve ever seen. Hats off to you. I’ve been at it 23 yrs and your never to old to learn. Your timing has changed my game. Thank you for taking the time to making these vids. Looking forward to seeing more.
How can you tell Alex anything about plastering the guys a pro if he wants to do the ceiling last then he will he’s not going to be dripping wet plaster onto the walls is he now
I will be honest I’ve got a lot of time on my hands and I’m quite sad for how many plastering videos I watch but il tell you this now this is the most detailed video and for me best method to use for plastering it’s explained really well and I know through using this method myself really effective
We have always got plasterers in to do our work but about 6 months ago the boss had me doin some small areas when plasterers were to busy, I’m now doing all the plastering and plastering most days I’m self taught and used RU-vid to help me get the best out of me and educate myself and this video and trust me there has been hundreds I have watched is the 1 that has really had an impact on my work. Nice one Alex 👍
Ive been finishing my sets with a spatular for while now plus doing alot of taping and jointing. Its been a long time since i finished a set with a trowel. I did try it again the other week tho and cocked it right up. So thanks for reminding me how its meant to be done👍 Will give it a go again tomorrow🫡
I've been doing a lot of grade two buildings of late with lots of oak beams because the beams are all over the place its hard to to get a nice finish so I came up with this I let the plaster harden but not to much then I go round all the beams with a damp micro fibre cloth does the job great better than a brush no marks ice smooth finish for the decorators
Just found this video. Trying to learn plastering for years on my own. Not a soul around my area practicing who could help beyond one old book with explanations that are textbook old with blurry greyscale pictures. This video is the best I have ever seen by far. I took comprehensive notes. I have been considering screeds, but I am reconsidering. Perhaps good application of feather boards and using these steps may obviate them. I think my trowel technique is reasonable, but there was so much I was missing in the chemistry. I have tried to figure it out by trial and error, but this video has helped me leapfrog that part of the learning process. This video is all about where practice meets the chemistry. I appreciate the effort so very much.
Superb video bud. I've been plastering 13 years but there's always something to learn. I work in a very similar way to you guys. Always good to see how others do things, that's how we learn things. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. All the best, regards Neil.
There's a multitude of things that can determine the setting time of skim from temperature to background but I've found that also from bag to bag and where you buy the stuff highly affects it too, these days you never know until it is miixed. I'm also slow at applying so that is something to consider too versus if you just slap it on and hope for the best
a thought perhaps you should show how to apply the plaster most people are unsure when to leave it and keep trying to get it flat in the early stages which wastes time and slows the application which then causes problems right through the set?? just a thought.... you have a excellent way of describing and showing how to plaster
Yeah don't think i would use another any more. Great videos by the way iv been plastering since I was 16 about 8 years now still learning every day and watched all your videos keep it up man
Looks like a masterpiece. As a rough guide how long do you wait between flattening first coat? And between first flattening and 2nd coat. Also with that speed skim, you can just flatten straightway? *Say average room temperatures of 16 degrees
Hi Alex.I don't see when you're doing 2 wet trowel and the last dry pass ,marks on the wall when the plaster it's already dry ,like when it's more dry when it's more wet .I see it's a uniform color at your plaster.Whats do you thinks it's the reason for it .Thanks
Great video Alex. One question: how do you cope with numerous ‘hot spots’ you find sometimes on a wall where the brush test could give you a false reading especially where the wall is slightly undulating or near the bead area where the gear hangs around longer before it picks up.I think it’s these sort of areas that cause the dreaded cellulite and tiger marks.What’s your opinion ? Thanks again for all your time and effort making these vids. atb
Hi Malcolm Thanks for the comment. So my thoughts are generally is that most important, control the suction, so it’s as even as possible. That will stop some areas pulling in more than others. Secondly, if you have very uneven walls, we apply the first coat very thick, to take 95% of that out. That way the top coat is generally all the same thickness. Lastly, if you close the plaster in as we show in the video, just before the wet trowel, you can leave it a lot longer, which reduces the risk against wet and dry areas. All in all, cover all 3 of these things, the areas your mentioning don’t come up that often. It only really happens in direct sun, or if there is a draft on the wall. Hope this helps.
Great vid..!.. Sometimes I get tiger straps when do last pass, and the wall is starting with dark spots. Don't know really why mabe too much pressure on trowel..?
Hard to say. Could be several things that cause it. Generally we fine being slightly early on the trowel stages (before you apply water) and being slightly later on the wet trowels helps it a bit.
A fantastic series of videos, superbly presented by a real natural and interesting to see the beard develop over time too 🙂 Great suggestions for optional (but helpful) tools: I've stumped up for the superflex now but still not quite ready to commit to a plastic plaziflex as I'm only doing small projects on my own property. One question: if it's preferable to use plastic for the final dry trowel, is anything else suitable? Same spatula as used for flattening perhaps? Thanks!
You can use a normal steel trowel. It just polishes up the wall a bit more. So the painter as to sand the wall a little to give the painter a bit of grip.
Another excellent video! If I can ask a question (not directly related to this video) I've recently covered over a doorway with plasterboard its pretty flush to the original wall, also plasterboard. Can I just skim my new section (and how) or should I skim the whole wall?
Probably done it by now haha but skim the whole wall, incredibly difficult to get a perfect finish when feathering in. I decorate as well as plaster and even my absolute best patchwork I usually run a thin bit of easi fill down the join
Flattening the plaster is something you do while the plaster is still wet. To even out the trowel lines made from applying the plaster. Closing the plaster in, the plaster is much drier, and your pushing the aggregate back into itself. What you fine after you flatten plaster and leave it to pull in abit. The plaster is very grainy, not smooth. It’s that aggregate your pushing back in.
Thank you for your reply Alex. I have found an old vid of how its done with ladder and plank. Scary lol. I have brand new mt perma, do you think if I sand it with wet n dry sandpaper high grit, it will help to smooth it. I'm currently training so not in the trade full time yet to break it in. thanks.
The permashape is a tough one to break in properly. Takes a long time. Sanding it down won’t do any harm. It’s a good trade to me in I think. Just look after your knees and elbows
Great video. Is it possible to apply the plaster with the speed skim lol. This is a genuine question, I wrote lol as I appreciate it may seem a bit ridiculous, but if pulled off, can you imagine productivity levels.
In America they have something called a cheater, which is basically a long strip of metal that you can apply it with, with render though. Kirk Giordano uses it in some of his videos
I'm new to plastering, although I can get a nice flat finish that looks great when decorated I'm struggling to get a professional, uniform colour once the plaster dries. Any suggestions?
You'll never get a uniform colour once the plaster dries. It's just the nature of plastering. It will always be patchy with slightly lighter and darker pinks. I think the reason is when you are wet troweling the fat (excess plaster) has more water content and hence lighter colour. Areas of the wall that are prouder than other places will naturally have more fat scraped off so will dry darker. Don't worry about it.
if you get your compression right and at the right time, you can get a perfect white all over colour on no matter what background, i try get on mine a bit earlier rather than later,
Hi Alex I am a carpenter who occasionally skims so pardon my ignorance love the vids I understand from your video tiger Marks come from doing the wet trowel to soon? This has Has happened to me from time to time I got over this with applying ready mix joint compound and sanding but is there another way recovering from this when you see this happening on a set thank you Colm
Hi Colm Tiger marks are really common I’m afraid with those who done plaster all the time. The main reason is they occurs for different reasons. The skill is knowing why they are caused. As a general, these are the most common reasons. 1. Applying too much water when the plaster is too wet. 2. Applying the second coat to thick. 3. Flattening the second coat to late. 4. Not applying enough water when it’s too dry. 5. Not enough pressure on the trowel. 6. The trowel face is open too much when the plaster is too wet. 7. Plaster drying unevenly. 8. Plaster pulling in too fast. Etc etc. The long and the short of it, tiger marks are the result of the plaster being dragged. Which one of those reasons is for you to work out.
Thanks for replying appreciate it and all the information helps. Since this I have done another bit of skimming and it seemed in my case I was dragging the plaster by having the trowel to open. I then realised I could work out any marks with a little mist of water and a keeping the trowel more closed flatter to the wall more practise seems to be the answer thank you again Colm
Cam I ask, I've been plastering for some years now but no matter what if a light hits my ceiling I can see trowel marks specially along the edges, I'll add I use the steel all the way through and put 100 percent into it. The walk is white a uniform but I'm not happy and think I'm missing something
For the edges it sounds like you are leaving it too late to clean them up. Try using a plastic scrapper/filling knife just after the first wet trowel. scrape out the corners to neaten them up. As to the trowel marks, try using clean water or a sprayer when doing the wet trowel. sometimes using dirty water when wet trowling can leave fat marks behind.
Hi there Alex, what do you use for a platform when you do high straight stairs. like in council houses. For example, in through front door, stairs straight in front, curve at top. High three walls. I hope this makes sense. You have done vid on stairs and landing but not high stairs with platform. In fact no one seems to have done vids on this. Cheers.
Hi Matt I know the staircases you are referring too. Generally I think no one really videos them as it usually entails scaffold boards on ladders, or some other dangerous method which you can’t condone on a video. But as a general, we usually screw timber to the sides to create a platform to plaster the high back wall, then take them down, and use long ladders leaning against that wall to plaster the sides. A lot of hallways have there own little qwerks but the one your describing that’s how I handle it.
I'm using a Nela Medi Flex that's not really broken in yet. When I doing the wet trowel it's screeching on the wall and removing some of the plaster skin creating a sort of tiger effect. Any ideas and love this channel it's got great indepth knowledge
I would probably go with a shallower angle if it’s screeching with more pressure on the wall. If it’s taking off plaster AND leaving tiger marks, it’s sounds like the wall might be a bit wet for a wet trowel. Hope this helps. Thanks for the feedback on the channel.
I am a beginner trying to pick up on how to do this. Being from USA what type of plaster am I looking to use that would most identify with what you are using in the videos, if you know. I would think that this should be emphasized here, because if not, then these videos would apply more for your country and what you use. I am trying to figure out what manufacturer sells your product in USA that would allow me to follow your techniques. Any ideas or just mainly for European countries as these products are made there.
Because the adjoining ceiling is a scheiling at 45°. As such to maintain a straight level line it’s easier to snap a level chalk line on the wall as appose to the ceiling and plaster to that line on the second set. Hope this he’s.
Hello again. Another tip vid 👌🏼 Did I hear you correctly, did you say it'll take you around 15 mins to get a 3 bag mix up on the walls?? I would love to be able to work on my speed, I feel like I just can't help but try get it super flat on my first coat and it stops me getting through larger mixes when I try. Would love to hear if you have any tips on this
Yes that’s right. About 15 min or so. Around a bag every 5 min is usually manageable if we aren’t hanging about. We have a big job coming up, which is massive long sections. Might be able to do a video on speed if i get a chance. Message us on Instagram or Facebook messenger if you want to talk over your technique more specifically. 👍
@@AlexMorleyPlasteringsound mate might just do that. And a video on speed would be great if possible, I don't know how you have time to make these videos!
Hi Alex, a question if I may: I am battening and boarding a bricked up external doorway, there is a 2 to 3" irregular deep hole where the door was. Is it best to bring the plasterboard flush with the existing wall face and then skim and feather in or set the face of the boards back a few mm in the hope that when I skim, it will be flush. Plus how to tape the edges?? I will appreciate any help from you or anyone else who wants to chime in. Thanks
@@davepangolin4996 Thanks very much. I battened and plasterboarded to within a few mm and then got it skimmed by a pro. He didn't do the entire wall but it will be OK as it's going to be behind kitchen cupboards and tiling.
When flattening off with the speedskim (straight after applying the plaster to the wall) i tend to get low spots the entire length of the speed skim. Any tips on how to prevent this?
We are based in Eastbourne. Prices for domestic newbuilds range from £5- 9 m² skimming labour only. Depending on the size of the job, and the type of builder.
Any number that of reasons. Probably the most common is flattening and doing your wet trowels too early. And only troweling in one direction throughout your set.
Great vid disagree about the difference between a proper spread and a diy.er just being about the timing though a time served spread will just make it look easy (although it ain’t) and a diy,er will just get in a mess they’ll b more on the floor than the wall great vid though well explained
