I have the Spot Hogg Laser Aligner Tool, I have the Phase 4, I have the Top Hats Kit, I have the Draw Board. I aligned it so the laser is hitting the groove of each cam, top and bottom. Arrows are spined correctly, Cam timing perfect, Centershot at 13/16"........ I get a left tear no matter what arrow I shoot. What in the heck am I doing wrong. I am not a new archer, have bullet holes with my other bows. Upper cam needed one set of tophats, bottom cam another but the lazer points correctly to both at full draw. LMK your thoughts MFJJ.
Love everything you do and more importantly, why you do it! As a long time Mathew’s target shooter the best way I’ve found to tune a Mathew’s, is to buy a bowtech 😂 sorry fan boys but it’s true. To each there own though.
Thank you for explaining WHY this needs to be done / showing how to do it. Just bought a bow press because I'm sick of my archery shop not giving me the time of day to do tuning like this.
I have a question, for anybody... Should these components have come with my bow (V3 31") when I bought it at the pro shop? Same question with the SwitchWeight Mods? Thanks-J
Lol at the BowTech fanboys acting like Mathews owners have to do this every Saturday. Meanwhile Mathews has the #1 selling Flagship bow in the country.
Great content but videography was pretty rough. Lots of out of focus. Very difficult to see where the laser was pointing. Sorry but your other videos are much better for filming.
Talked to Mathews tech support. At the factory they get the cams lined up with the bow not at full draw. Very interesting he laughed at this method and did not recommend it. He claimed just tuning through paper and using top hats to correct it was how he suggested doing it. Huh. But I trust Josh and this is what I did.
Do you too hat tune before paper tuning? I just got a new phase 4 33 and am still in the bow/arrow build process, but I’m aware of the top hats and don’t know if I need to mess with them yet. Also how does the top hat change cam lean? I thought they were just spacers to move the cam left and right on the axis of the axel.
Ever run into those top hats not coming out easily? Mine are horrible to remove, like needed to use a punch and hammer to tap them out. They slide out easy on my old VXR.
I think the rubber between the limbs on the new phase 4 makes them harder to remove. I know my shop uses a old top hat to press them out. I got lucky on my phase 4, as I did not need to change them out.
@@charleszielke2634 yeah I never looked inside the hole to see if the rubber was maybe binding a bit, but that makes sense. Thankfully not something you need to adjust very often.
I think the give away is awesome and very generous. It's not free though. The average person can't just buy a plane ticket, rent a car, get a hotel room, and take time from work for this. That's probably why you don't have many entrees in the give away. The people that can afford to do this probably already have a new bow.
So I bought the laser, but the top hats that are parallel make my arrow sit at 11/16” instead of the 13/16” Mathews recommends, to get them to flying well. In the video if I understand it correctly you say once they are aimed at each other you should move them together, however when I do that to get back close to the 13/16”, they are no longer close to being aimed at each other, any suggestions? Or what do you feel like is more important? Or does it even matter if I get good arrow flight, as that’s what we’re all going for!
If you get them aligned with the lazer but your center shot is off do you just flip the top hats left to right? Also in another video you said you cant trust checking timing in LCA press drawboard, could you do a video on how you would check timing with the LCA drawboard? Still waiting for my phone call!
I'm sure no ones ever asked you to show how you made that draw board thingy-ma-jig so I will , pretty please show us the MFJJ magic draw board recipe , great video , cheers
Once the cam lean is sorted out do you ever need to redo it? Like when getting new strings or something? I had to swap the top tophats around on my 29 to get bullet holes. It was really easy and the satisfaction of having my rest in the centre is great.
This really helps. I’ve been tinkering with my V3X 29 for a weeks and wasn’t sure if I was doing it correctly. But I don’t have that fancy Spot Hogg laser. Guess I need more tools!
You’re such a cool dude, Josh Jones! Super jealous of the hair, too! I really wish I could pull that off! 😉 But seriously, thanks for all you do! I’ve never even heard of a top hat until now! That could be because I shoot Bowtech, but who’s keeping track, right?! I’ve honestly learned SO much watching your videos! Keep it up! You’re bad ass! 👍🏽
No way……… ARE THOSE CAMS WITH FREAKING LAZER BEAMS ON THEM!?!?! Looks like somebody needs to sit next to Daddy!! The fact that you are putting out this high level content for ALL of us is awesome! For all of us archery tinkerers this is great stuff. Can’t wait for the next videos to come out. I’m all jacked up on Mountain Dew… waiting for more!! Keep it coming!!
Thank you for this video! Very helpful! Surprised by outcome, with each cam having same top hats but opposite sides of cam, but tuned right up. Keep up the good work ,it is very beneficial!
Josh, I know you advocate working on your own bows, but this sure makes it seem scary. I plan to re-start working on my own arrows, but not sure about bows yet. I have several Matthews bows and fortunately a very good bow shop!
MFJJ I love your content I have been watching you on dans channel for years and now on Tim’s and you’re really smart guy but I’m just curious when you said that you moved the cam all the way to the right it had the least amount of wheel lean when I shimmed my elite all the way to the right it seem to have the most amount of wheel lean. Is that correct?
Great video. Just today I had to flip both my top and bottom top hats on my V3X33. I’m lucky I didn’t have to play the top hat game and go through several to find the right match.
Great video. I would like to know if you have a parts list for draw board and where you got the laser pointer from. Keep making these videos best on you tube.
Josh question: when changing your Top Hats to remove a tear either left or right, is it best practice to change both cams Top Hats with the same set of Top Hat configuration?
With the Phase 4 having 8 limbs compared to the normal 4, Is there more of a variance/ tuning issue? Or is Mathews able to get them closer with the amount of limbs that they have.
Josh, These are handy.. Especially the part where you state how to correct certain tears in paper compared to what direction you want to move the cam.. At one point in time this was MAGIC to me LOL
I had the exact same thing happen when I did my wheeling about a week ago. One cam was dead nuts, and the other shot the laser just slightly off the side of the other cam. Checked my timing again then shot it through paper and had a perfect bullet hole. This system works
Wow i always thought that you had to use the same spacer sizes on the bottom and top and flip them between sides. Was never sure if you could run mixed top hats
Great video. I have a hard time trusting my LCA draw board for doing this, but I think I'll check it out in the draw board to see where my cam lean is.
Thanks Josh. Great video. I couldn't find a video like this explaining how to use the top hats that was this in depth. I thankfully was able to tinker and figure it out the right way! But this is a great confirmation of my efforts and time.
Really interesting results. I would have thought each change would have produced the same distance. I didn't take into account the possibility of variance of limb load. Thanks for sharing!
Great information video. I don't have a Matthew's bow but knowing how to work on one is good to know. My closest shop is about an hour away. Knowing how to work on one is a good thing to know. Thank you for all the great information.
Have you considered using a non impact driver on your draw board/Bow press? Might have to use it in 1st gear. Seems like the impact is unnecessary for adjusting them.
Good stuff, but I wish you had addressed how tight to get those axel screws. Some folks on the internet claim that is the reason the bearings fail so often on the cams. Thanks!
Simply put, this is the best information I've ever seen regarding Mathews bows and the tophat system. Can't thank you enough. Though I shoot an Elite bow, I occasionally help Mathews' owners set up their bows. Good stuff, thanks.
If they would have colored them then people would complain about the color they need not matching the color scheme they want… it’s really not difficult especially since it’s dang near a one and done deal
