Great videos Zolly! 👍👍 I still have a Mavic Mini and just discovered your channel (and just subscribed). I would love to see a video that uses non-solder type 16850 cells that we can simply drop in/plug in, as in a cheap LED flashlight. This is the way that ultra-greedy DJI should have done to begin with. Expensive proprietary batteries are certainly anti-green and anti-consumer. When I first started flying drones back in 2016 I could buy cheap 3rd party batteries and that was fantastic. And I never had a single crash or problem using those inexpensive cells. Now if you could only improve the crappy (laggy control) range of the original CE version Mini! Regards from Thailand!
Thanks! :) The problem is the super tight space in the compartment, so the best ide is to use XT-60 connectors. I will do that in my new battery video which is coming soon. ;)
"I would love to see a video that uses non-solder type 16850 cells that we can simply drop in/plug in, as in a cheap LED flashlight. This is the way that ultra-greedy DJI should have done to begin with. Expensive proprietary batteries are certainly anti-green and anti-consumer. " You are correct about that. Very anti-consumer. The battery case should be easy to open, just like opening just that tape and then pulling out the two 16850 batteries and tape the case back together. That is what it should be. Now you would have a consumer that can buy pack of 16850 batteries and replace them as time goes. I don't know how to much does those batteries really wear out and die in time, but I have seen recharge cycles as little as 47 until battery is dead. I am going now with one battery the recharging count 12, and it gives me already just about a 8-9 minutes of flight time. That is absolutely idiotic, as I am almost certain that 16850 battery would not lose its capability to hold charge as badly as it now does. Other two are at counts 17 and 18 and they are OK, but have lost from 25 min flight time about 10-12 min, so they are now at better part of 12-13 min as well. And not knowing at first that batteries will purposely drain in first day charge to 90, and then after 5 days it will drain to 72% level, in name of "protecting from swelling". I call that just BS business model. And even more reason to have each battery just "insert new cell" idea. There is as well a small chip that can be used to reset the DJI own electronics to achieve reseted battery voltage values. Need to go look for that now: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OZOIQDBmzKY.html
@@paristo Yeah, I really miss the old days flying my circa 2016 el cheapo Hubsan H501s. Not only were aftermarket batteries cheap and plentiful, but no geo-fencing. The drone certainly wasn't perfect but there were fairly frequent custom firmware updates available from enthusiasts that kept improving it. If it had a fully stabilized decent 2k camera, a la my Mavi Mini, I would probably still be flying it. Sadly, DJI has gotten beyond greedy in recent years, I not only can't believe how expensive the Mini 3 Pro is, but even the non-Pro version is severely overpriced. Of course, in 2 months most drones, and literally all RC aircraft are going to be illegal in the US anyway thanks to the hideous Remote ID requirement. Oh well. Regards from toasty damp Thailand!
🇷🇺👋👍 this rule works 😁 Today I repeated everything, as in this video, and did, and my bad battery came to life and worked, I was even able to fly on it. The main thing is to do everything as in the video and do not forget to cut the contact and be very careful with the thin wire, otherwise you can tear off the solder contact from the microcircuit 👍
With the Samsung CLP315 we used to pull the data line low which interrupted the data flow on startup and forced the printer to reset the page count, toner levels, we would then print a test page and it would write a value of 1 for the page count and set the tone levels back to 100% ... Something along these lines where either the drone or the battery needs to write code to one another to reset... I am wondering if in the data memory it totally erases the code and needs code planting back in it .... msp430f149 I used to have issues with a device (not drone related) erasing the data. I wonder if with new (wrong) but viable data being planted in the data memory of the battery PIC or whatever processor it is using whether then it will see data, realise it is wrong and correct the data accordingly. I am waiting on my Mini 2 to arrive but are you able to tell me what chip is on the battery PCB and what micro is in the drone... I may have some ideas for you
I wonder if woud be possible to read out the hex data from microcontroller/eeprom, and if the battery locks, simply reflash it. Or analyze the communication, and replace the electronics with a custom build one...
I am sorry, I have no idea, It is not possible to measure these components while they are in circuit. As they are so small I can not de-solder them and successfully solder them back. As a general idea I would go for small capacitors and bigger resistors. So maybe starting from 10nF caps and go up and 4K7 resistors and go down. By the way, you may just as well try the board if it works, because some of these are just decoupling caps and the board works without them. I hope it helps some! :)
May I ask if there is any downside of replacing those 2 resistors of 10 kohls used for fooling the PCB balance detector with 2 capacitors so it will reduce the current drained from the cells?
I have a couple of bricked bms boards from the mini v1 LION packs (like you have here) and id like to know if your batteries work in the DJI Mini 2? Id like to use your method but dont want tomgo through the trouble if it ends up not compatible or at worse killing my drone :)
Hi. How many bricked boards do you have. I am looking for some to do the exact testing of this matter. It can be done. I succeeded in making it work, but the code for the uC has to be changed as the timing is totally different. Let me know if you want to do a collab on this. I do not want to brick more mini1 batteries just to have some bricked boards...😆😆😆
hello i need your help please. I replaced the two 2400 mah batteries with 3500 mah, and nothing works, the four white led lights flashing 3 times per second the drone does not turn on and the battery does not charge, I put the old ones back in nothing works, please help me.
As explained in the video, the controller software locks itself if the battery cells are disconnected at any point, so unfortunately unless you are willing to find out how to reprogram the microcontroller, you have permanently bricked your battery. I've seen someone reset a mavic pro battery with a rpi before so that might be an option for you.
Which pins on the battery are the positive and negative leads? I see in the video that the 1st pin is a data pin. What about the other 5? Cant seem to find this info anywhere.
actually i found the answer in one of your other videos (2 middle are positive, the outer next to them are negative) - Thanks, your videos are very detailed and quite helpful!
When the battery electronics register a permanent failure and from there on the battery is not functional. It happens when the cells are going bad, or when someone tries to tinker with the battery. This is a hack to counter the lock.
What is your aircraft firmware version? My aircraft battery after reconnecting the data pin the battery cell error appeared and the aircraft stopped working! My aircraft firmware is 400 merge with 500 with drone-hacks software.
@@ZollyDbefore takeoff :) manual clicking and mosfets has bypassed. Error: incompetible battery version before takeoff not error battery data communication .... Is this nomal?
I tell everything in the video how to fix it. Make sure that the following points are taken care of: 1. the battery PCB is not damaged. 2. The resistor network is in place 3. The line which is shown at 7:00 is cut 4. the push button is connected the right way 5. the MOSFETS are bypassed 7:48 6. cells reconnected. 7. battery into drone 8. Start up drone with data communication disconnected. (button not pushed) and wait till solid red LED 9. push button for 10-12 seconds 10. start cycling the push button with short presses in every second, or 0.8 secons. IT HAS TO WORK. :)
I am curious also. I do not have a Mavic Pro. Once I can get my hands on one I will look into it. Till then you can check this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YwWq3HM0-ig.html and maybe contact the guy. He is cool. :)
