I had a problem with my 1991 Mazda b2200 it bogged down at low speeds. I tried to drive it up a hill and it couldn't do it. After a lot of gas wasted and time spent come to find out one or two of my fuel injectors had died. I replaced my fuel injectors and now it runs like a beast. My new complaint is that is stinks like hell. The exhaust is stinky asf. I too looked for a cat in my exhaust and found none. like wtf. I cannot drive this thing with the exhaust stinking like that so I guess I have to find a cat to install either by itself or have to repipe and refit the whole exhaust system.
I noticed a lot of hesitation what you trying to speak direct English with complicated words under the internet is Harsh but I'm proud of you for learning so greatly
Most likely ECU module failed. I would recommend you to get used engine computer from the local junk yard (I found few for less than 50$). That fixed no power/bog down issue. I am working on rebuilding my old ECU - video is coming. Also, what is inline fuel pressure readings at idle and up 2000 rpm? Thanks)
I have a Mazda b2600i and another that is a parts truck I took the computer out opened it up and that's exactly what the problem was I swapped out computers truck runs better than it did before
Coolant temp sensor can fail and cause loss of power idle hanging high. Will cause engine to run way rich. Hard no start, won't Rev up. Walker has sensor w/ connector that is good.
You said you didn't have a Catalytic converter, but you didn't check near behind the differential in the back. My catalytic converter is just behind the differential in the very back. I have a Mazda B2600i and mine is a 2 wheel drive from California. I am looking at your channel to see if you can assist me. I see this video is a little over 2 years old. My truck was running fine and then with 30 seconds the engine died. It stalled basically. Mine has two mufflers on the tail pipe one is a muffler and a catalytic converter. Mine looked like it was made that way.
I have a 89 b2600i. Boggs down on full throttle. Idles fine. I've checked ECU, looks great, no problems. I've replaced plugs, cap, rotor, pcv, coil, TPS, cleaned MAF, cleaned intake/throttle body, new wires,, checked for vacuum leaks, I'm at a loss. Thinking possibly fuel regulator or clogged screen in tank. Just had new exhaust put on. 2", no convertor, standard muffler. Still same problem. Any ideas?
Hey B. You done a lot of Good Stuff! I will do next check ups: 1. Check prime fuel pressure, idle pressure and fuel pressure at 1,5-2.0K rpm. 2. Replace fuel filter under the hood, if you haven't done it yet. 3. Check TPS voltage at released accelerator pedal and fully depressed pedal as well. 4. Check ECM capacitors resistance and continuity. 4. Even Ecm circuit board could look okay it doesn't mean pads, traces and other components are in tact. Just get another ECU from junk yard 2200 or 2600i Mazda for 25$ and try it out. I seen it helped few times. BZW, is your Mazda carburettor old school set up or fuel injector? Let me know if you need any data oe specs for any test. Cheers Brotha!
@@PistonShack Thanks bro. Yeah, changed fuel filter too. I will try the ecu swap when I have a chance. I assume the ecu has to be the same as mine though? 5 spd, 4wd, same year? Thanks for your help bro!! Love your channel!
@@user-xq2wr1mn3l You're welcome! I would say even ECU from the vehicle with automatic transmission should work but I'm not 100% sure. Automatic transmission on old mazda is not computer controlled by ECU. Happy New Year 2021 To You And Your Family!
I’m having this same issue but will happen at random times while driving . I will shut the truck off and then back on and it will run fine until it does it again at random times. I will start to troubleshoot and hope to get To the bottom of it
Hi James! It started acting up occasionally the intermittent problem turned into permanent - No acceleration / bogging down issue. That's matter of time.
I went ahead and took the ecm cover off And right away I discovered a blown resistor on the circuit board . No current flow across it testing with an ohmmeter. Burned around the resistor. Think I have discovered issue. I will replace ecm and see what it does .
Need help with my truck b2600i Mazda someone stole my ECU out of my truck and I need a replacement one which years would fit and which years could I use to make it work a 90
Hi Hannah. That's sad to hear! Based on my experience any ECU from b2200 or b2600i will work on b2600i Mazda. You can find used or even re-manufactured ECU on ebay or local scrap yard.
thanks for the videos !! I got that same truck ! any info on why im getting poor MPG / fuel consumption. new cap rotor plugs wires distributor etc. all the basic tune up parts. truck runs very well but only gets 14mpg around town and used to get 20 mpg and above. best ever was 27 mpg on the highway. my b2200 with redline/weber carb gets better MPG .. apps 17mpg in the B2200
Thank a lot for your feedback and sharing the info. You know my 2600i is getting little bit better millage, almost as your b2200. Does truck goes into closed loop after O2 warmed up?
@@PistonShack I’m not sure.how can I tell if it’s in closed loop? I noticed an exhaust manifold gasket leak right after I made this comment and I’m thinking that could be effecting the O2 sensor and fuel delivery. Parts should be here this afternoon and maybe I’ll try to make a video for the Mazda b series community on RU-vid (very small and even smaller for b2600i ! ) thanks for the videos!! I’m also considering getting manual locking hubs from an 87-88 but they are hard to find. I’m not a fan of the RFW option and I feel like it creates a lot of drag on the rolling. 👍🏻👍🏻 have a good day!
Mine loss power. Running extremely rich. Coolant temp sensor was bad. Lately my truck is a little low on power though and I can't figure it out. Has rebuilt ECU and new distributor. Guess I need to check injectors..
Hi Solis. I would start with easiest test first: 1. Disconnect the ignition coil lead from the distributor, hold it with insulated pliers 5-10 mm from a ground, crank the engine and verify that a strong blue spark is visible. If there is no spark, check for voltage at the (+) terminal of the ignition coil with ignition switch in on position. If there is no voltage, check the main fuse, ignition switch, and wiring harness. 2. Primary coil test (read resistance at the small connector between two pins. (0.81-0.99 Ohms) 3. Secondary coil test. Check resistance between main terminal and two pin male connector. One of the pins should read 6-30 KOmhs) Let me know how everything is going!
I parked my 1990 B2600i up for about a month due to installing a Airbag Suspension. Note it ran fine before parking up but now very hard to start and keep running. Changed out plugs and eventually got it running but had to keep at a certain RPM and now backfires from time to time. Place a fuel pressure gage between fuel filter and I think regulator to see if pressure was constant. Pressure seemed steady. I'm not sure was the culprit is now. I have no check engine light and not familiar how to check code. Hopefully you can help. Looking forward to hearing from you.
Hey Don! Well, b2600i doesn't like to sit they build to ride and explore) Sounds like your Mazda is missing injectors timing impulse, ignition is off or engine control inputs acting up. Alright, I will do the next checks, starting with the basics: Some steps are very basics and simple but quite often get neglected. - check if the air cleaner element is clean; - check ignition timing after war up, BTDC - 6 degrees, green connector grounded; - check for cylinders distribution by disconnecting spark plugs one at a time, check if conditions change; - fill the tank with fresh gasoline, at least 1/2; - check the injectors operating sound at idle; - swap MAF sensor, sometimes it could cause a hard start; - check resistance at injectors harness: terminals B/Y - LG/B and B/Y- LG/R should read 6-8, Ohm; - check for air leaks by listening sucking noises (at idle, when the throttle is open); check fuel pressure when the ignition is ON, test connector yellow pin connected - 38-46 psi; - check fuel pump max pressure (64-85 psi) idle fuel pressure (31-38 psi) could be an issue with fuel pick or fuel strainer up inside the tank. Try to blow compressed air into the fuel outlet at the tank with filler cap off; -check the exhaust system for any flow restrictions; - substitute well-known ECU if the condition will change; - make sure you have fresh fuel in a tank, old fuel can cause loss of power; - check the engine for any vacuum leaks; -check TPS for resistance. Let me know have everything is going and what test results did you get or if you have any questions. Cheers!
Thanks for answering. Im going trough it! Truck was running fine but i was noticing a rough idle at time. One of the wires from the distributor was broken. I replaced it with new wires. Was running fine. I added seafoam and since then still fine. Then in traffic im at a light i press down no acceleration. Eventually it caugh itself and started driving again. I changed distributor spark plug(black when i took out) maf spark plug wire. Now when i start it it starts really rough and then cuts of.
Thanks for your feedback. I checked ignition system before it was fine but thank you for your advice. I even made video: IGNITION TIMING MAZDA b2600i, b2200 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Bq2KrSdZFXY.html
