I was having dpf issues, could not for the life of me figure it out! I watched this video and thought that has to be my problem! Took it on today, it took me 11 hours start to finish, the ports and the throttle body were absolutely caked! Thanks a million for the video lad, never would of managed it without your video! Its ended my months of frustration! 👍👍👍👍👍
This is just nothing short of an excellent video Peter as you cover both theoretical and practical - consider doing an online training course (I'd pay for this!) for us home garage enthusiasts 😉 I have this exact engine and your trick of 4th gear, one wheel off the ground, is nothing short of a revelation (I have a cheap and cheerful borescope) - so simple when you know how as all other videos were showing how to turn the crank shaft to align valves or quick brief starting (not easy when you have half the engine on the floor!! The 2.2 I am working on hasn't anything like the carbon build up in the manifold but the rest looks very similar. Keep posting videos - you are an excellent tutor. 👍
Thank you very much, it is really nice to get positive feedback. I’m working on another Mazda 6 at the moment and have a few videos being uploaded in the next week or so keep an eye on my channel for them. Thanks again Damien 🙏👍
Hi Peter. Great video, I am going to do the same decoke to the same engine on my 2015 Mazda. It has done 76K miles which is about 121K kilometres. I intend to use a hoover with attached rubber pipes of various sizes/diameter to catch the carbon which will be scarped off the inlet ports of the cylinder head. I recently had the car terra cleaned which gave a small improvement but I knew in the back of my mind that I would have to take the manifold off. I can't do the turning of the engine trick because mine is semi automatic. Keep posting. Great videos
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hi Peter, job is done now but I am wondering how to stop the build up of soot etc happening all over again. Some websites are mentioning using a restrictor plate in the flow of exhaust gas, they mention that this needs to fit between the EGR cooler and the cylinder head. Do you know if this is correct?
@@tomhelsby5546 it is just a filter & it can slow down the carbon buildup but it will get blocked fairly often. I personally think it is just part of owning a diesel car & not much you can do to stop it from happening 🤔 Well done on getting the job done though 👍👍
Great video. My cx5 2016 broke down on way to cork with all the fault codes and limp mode. Left into garage in cork for 2 week. They regenerated the dpf and changed sensor, 550€. Collected it and started to drive back to Dublin. Went straight into limp mode so had to call AA and get lifted to Mitchelstown. It’s breaking my heart.
Hi Stephen, That’s unfortunate, it seems that most workshops don’t have enough experience with the Mazda 2.2 Skyactive engine & make the wrong call when diagnosing them. Let me know if you want me to take a look or just advise. Just google Kennedys garage Portlaw & give me a call 😉
The car is in Mitchelstown so I’d have to get it lifted to your garage. Local mechanic looking at it today or tomorrow, I’m back in Dublin so will call them tomorrow to get update. Cheers
@@stepheno2462 Fingers crossed it is only something small 🤞 but if he has any fears of sorting it or would prefer not to just let me know. I could arrange collection also. I do this a lot for people all around the country having ongoing Mazda problems 👍😉
Great video. I had same problem and had to clean intake manifold . After a while had problem with car not picking up when pushed. It turns out that Low pressure EGR was a culprit. Once replaces it is back again.
Amazing video, very helpful. Is it possible to remove the intercooler without removing the front bumper? I have a badly stuck screw on the top that prevents me from taking out the bumper.
Excellent vid. Thanks for taking the time. Turning the wheel in gear - good way to turn motor over to close the valves. However what would you do if it was an automatic? I am in NZ and wife’s car is a CX5 2.2D and now done 217,000 kms. Had since new in 2013. Had a new engine block at 140,000 kms paid for by Mazda NZ which I speculate was due to either a cracked head or blown head gasket - a lot of these replacements have been done due to some fault but Mazda would not say what it was definitively = overheating and bubbling out the radiator was the symptom when failed. Auto transmission subsequently failed at 170,000 kms. Took some serious words, but got Mazda NZ to replace this at their cost also. So now I discover this EGR system is continuing to wreck the engine. I know all the ins and outs of its purpose, but it has to go , along with the DPF - which due to regeneration is continuously watering down the engine oil - never had a car with rising engine oil levels. No good for the engine can come from any of these shocking systems. The car is now spitting up faults due to carbon build up and has become unreliable. A lot of these so called modern diesels are not going to last. People are trying flick on to other unsuspecting people once they discover the serious problems of these engines. Disgraceful. I could not do this. I am however going to give Mazda NZ another serious talking to, delete both DPF and EGR and have engine remapped. Been quoted around NZ$2,750 for this. But first I need to check turbo for bearing damage, hope replaced engine is still okay, replace injector seals as apparently they leak further raising oil levels and decarbon the inlet manifold. Sorry to go on, but fairly pissed.
They can there fair share of problems 😬 But yes I totally agree there are too many bits that can & do go wrong nowadays. You will have to buy electric 🤪👍 And I enjoyed the rant 😉😉
Owning a CX-5 2.2D since 2012, The engine was replaced at 120kkm, and it is reaching 240kkm, same errors are coming up every now and then, the engine is probably falling apart again.
I have the same problem my mazda 6 2015 78000 mile and check engin light on and code is P0401.. Need to do now what you done. Thank you very much for that video and your time to show from start to finish how to fix it.
Great to see the throttle body. I have scbs tpms dsc and parking brake warning lights on but the code is P2118. Says it’s “throttle actuator a control motor current range/performance
Hi Peter... I'm Richard... I would like to clean the intake manifold as you did... but I wanted to understand if you sucked up the bulk of the carbon deposits with a vacuum cleaner, then I saw that you used the product to clean the EGR valves, so you sprayed it into the ducts after cleaning by hand with tools... so after spraying the product nothing happens to the engine if a bit of product falls into the valve seat together with the dissolved dirt? I await your kind reply... thanks and good work
@@vrrcf I have heard of this job going terribly wrong on some people so progress with caution. The intake ports that you are going to clean must have the valves closed. I show how to do this on another video that I’ll paste. Also I do use a vacuum cleaner to remove the bulk of the carbon. And the we walnut blast the ports, I then use compressed air to remove any remaining debris.
fantastic video sir. i bought one of these 4 months ago second hand and it has all these issues. i am going to have a go at it myself and your video will be a great help to me. just 1 question is it possible to remove the oil pickup without removing the oil pump. i only ask as i will be doing the work on my driveway as i have no garage. it seems a lot of work for 1 bolt,but if it has to go then it will have to go
Unfortunately the oil pump & balance shaft assembly has to be removed & disassembled in order to replace the oil strainer. The very best of luck with the repair 🤞🤞👍
i saw other videos cleaning the manifolds and ports using walnut shell blasting, that seems to leave the cleanest surface and it's the fastest, I assume there is many ways to achieve same goal, just another alternative to ur tool belt.
This is quite an old video & my technique changes quite often. I now use a penknife to remove the heavy carbon from the ports. I also bought a walnut blaster & the use that when the heavy buildup has been removed 😉👍👍👍
I just bought 2015 2.2 skyactiv d mazda 6 manual with 84 000 few months ago but now im maybe considering selling it after My two year warranty ends, or maybe even sooner because all of those problems surrounding that engine.. Do you maybe know which kind of additive cleaner can and should i use with this car as prevention to all of that carbon build? What do you recommend? And do you know why does the car sometimes revs a little jumpy when I accelerate in first or second gear?Btw great and very informative video!
JLM intake & egr cleaner is a very good product that would definitely help, as for the jumpy under acceleration issue it could be anything but I would recommend doing the injector washers on the next service & see if it helps. It is a good maintenance job to carry our either way. And I’m glad you like the video, cheers Dario 🙏👍
Many thanks for taking the time to provide this guide. I've been able to clean the manifold following this step by step video. However on the engine side I was very confident the valves are closed on the 1st 2 posrts so I just cleaned them, but on the rest of the ports I simply could not figure out with the inspection camera if I closed the valves or not so I just stopped to prevent doing any damage. Is it possible to make a video explaining in more detail how to close the valves on this engine? I would say that putting the inspection camera on each port and explaining what is shown on the display, would help a lot so if you have the time to do this would be really helpful. Alternatively, could you please explain if this procedure can be done without closing the valves, probably by using suction instead of blowing with an air compressor? Thanks.
If you can open the inlet valves on one of the ports that you have cleaned, then all the other 3 inlet ports/ valves have to be closed. The intake valves can only be open on one cylinder at a time. Does that make sense??
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks for the prompt reply. I'm trying to process this information but I'm a bit confused. I thought the mafilod has 8 ports, 2 for each cylinder.
@@vrabievalentin4071 you are correct. I explained it badly. I counted each cylinder & it has 4 ☹️ I’ll try again, If you can open fully the 2 intake valves on any cylinder, then at that point the intake valves on all of the other 3 cylinders (6 intake ports) are going to be closed & can be cleaned without rotating it any further until all 3 cylinders (6 intake ports) are done. Does that make sense??
@@kennedysgarage3281 it makes perfect sense and many thanks again for taking the time to explain for everyone's understanding. Now I realise how easy it would have been to clean the other ports once I managed to close and clean the first two, but anyhow, your video helped me to maintain my car properly and saved me a lot of money in the long run. Thank you for sharing the knowledge.
Great video, mate. Do you have any tips for removing the charge outlet pipe connector from the intake shutter? I can't seem to bust it loose with the sleeve in the unlocked position. Cheers!
@Kennedy;s garage, excellent video. Just bought one of these with 88k miles so looking to do this carbon clean. Which gaskets did you need to change and which could you reuse? Thanks Damian
You should replace them all but they are all made of steel so won’t break & could be reused if needed. I have done in the past. Thanks for watching & commenting 🙏👍
Exellent thank you kind sir. Can you please tell me if removing the battery for a few hours to work on this will cause any issue with the infotaintment system?
Sorry for the late post, but I'm now facing having to perform this procedure, but my car is an automatic, so I can't just leave it in 4th gear and turn the road wheel. Is there an alternative method to open/close the cylinder valves that works with automatic transmissions please?
@@Teleport73 yes, turn out the right hand front wheel. Pop off the engine cover inside it and turn the engine from the 21mm crank bolt. Good luck with the repair 🤞🤞🤞
Very helpful I done the same thing on my mazda 6 skyactive but now I have a nother problem when driving and stop at the traffic light car stalls any suggestions,not enginemanagementlight on or codes. Thank you
These are equipped with START/STOP 🤔 If you press the clutch and go to move off again will it start on its own ?? If not just drive it for a few days and see does it register any fault codes to give you a direction to go in. Let me know how you get on 👍
Hi there. Great video, thanks for sharing. I just got a M3 2015 with the same engine and 110k km. If use egr spray from time to time it is posibile to prevent such a heavy carbon build up? Regards
Possibly, lots of chemical cleaners can very effective nowadays. I personally don’t have much faith in them but let me know you get on 👍 And thanks for watching & commenting 🙏
I have a snap on Verus edge , a Mehle & a launch. All 3 different brands give me different air flow numbers, which makes it very hard to diagnosis or confirm a fix. But a 2.2 diesel should be around 16grams per. second with the egr open. But these have high & low pressure egr which can be hard to diagnosis, if in doubt just pull it apart and take a look it would take around 4 hours 👍 Thanks for the comments & hope this helps 🙏
Great video did you see some good gains on the drive ? I'm.assujimg you had an eml on it ? I get occasuonal idle issues and feels a bit lumpy at speed Thanks in advance
Yes Kevin, I had an eml light on & it drove far better afterwards. It sounds like you might have the same issue. This de-carb is something that should possibly be done every 100,000 mls or so I feel 🤔👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 makes sense I'm at 97k I appreciate this thank you I also get a low compression occasionally on a gear change when giving it some poke
@@kevinhancock4064 copper washers under the injectors fail a lot. Unscrew oil filler cap when the engine is running and listen, if you can hear a pop,pop,pop it gives you an indication that the are failing 🤔👍🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 thanks mate will take a look indeed one injector was replaced the garage that done it said he checked other seaks but I beg to differ
Thanks for vid, I have to do the procedure for my Mazda as well Dealership ask me for 900 euro for this. I hope carbon won't get in the chambers..:)) will see in a few days
Hello again, I have done it. I was surpised the car start straight away. It wasn't that bad like in your vid but still. My problem persist, I have an intermitent hesitation for a second at higher speeds when I shift up the gears after that second the car pull normal... I changed fuel filter I try with both egr valves, chane maf sensor.. any sugestion?
Seen this twice now great video I really believe I have thus issue . Where did you get the torque specs from buddy ? I know the intake ones are 20nm but the others ? Obviously you bleed the cooling system after rebuild . My map was as , if not worst , bad as yours was caked . So my intake is likely as bad . Great work . Would have liked to see those valves after you cleaned them . Did u use rags to get in there ? Thanks
I use Autodata for all my torque spec’s , I have a cooling system bleeding tool which sucks out air & fill’s the system again. And if your MAP sensor is bad it’s a good sign that the intake manifold & ports are bad. I hope this helps Kevin
@@kennedysgarage3281 hi I only just came across this fella appreciate the feedback mate I have heard that before about the map indicating the intake is dirty . Also. I'm pretty confident in doing it is that a site of some sort for the torque settings ?.I recently cleaned egr valve the 1 that sits on 4 bolts . And the link pipe . Bit grubby I guess. I have had some flat spots and at 65/70+ it's not as smooth as I'd expect (feels a bit lumpy I guess ) . Only code I get intermittently is p2262 turbo boost not detected . When googlimg this code many have said their issue was the exhaust pressure sensor which I've ordered (bosch) . I've heard occasional noises which I'm going with egr I've read the egf can make rattling type noises if obstructed . Etc or failing . Thanks for any further help .
@@kevinhancock4064 the exhaust pressure sensor is a genuine Mazda product and unfortunately there isn't aftermarket replacement. The current version comes in a kit with a new bracket, rubber pipe cable ties, etc., because Mazda has redesigned it a few times and the new version has metal housing and a new shape. But it is produced by Bosch of course as all the other sensors. Actually there are two sensors, what Mazda references as Exhaust Pressure Sensor No. 1 and No. 2. - No. 1 is the sensor what I described above, No. 2 is the one also known as differential pressure sensor. For P2262, you most likely need to replace the first one. But here is the list of possible cause: Exhaust gas pressure sensor No.1 malfunction • MAP sensor No.2 malfunction • Compressor bypass valve malfunction ― Compressor bypass valve fell off • Small-type turbocharger malfunction ― Turbine blade or compressor blade damage ― Runout, loss, or sticking due to turbine axis wear • Exhaust system clogged ― Diesel particulate filter clogged (damage, burnt out) ― Clogging caused by freezing • PCM malfunction
@@_GSzabados yeah I've already spoken to mazda about it they do them for £60+ exc vat .....he didn't mention 8t came with the plug and tube etc ..you can get the genuine 9nes as a kit on ebay 106 pounds I think it Is
@@_GSzabados hi again ive now git thecsayd eejsir attempting utbtodsy . Sensor itself wouodhtvtaje long but I'm to check the metal hose lower down. Pig of a job really but could be worst ..no toom in these engines for these sensors lol I'm still getting p2262 it's had bew tugboat kit and 2 sensitivity at the rear of turbo so this is only one left I believe..it was def better after other 2cwere changed. I think my buzz noise (occasionally) is linked . My theory is the sensor is trying to read the turbo pressure and can't read it well due to bad sensor and/or blockage . The noise could be the pressure not reaching sensor
Dr. Mazda strikes again ;), you are super, thank you very much for your useful videos. Do you already have video about timing chain replacement in Mazda Skyactiv-d? What is you opinion about timing chain replacement, car has 220.000km, timing chain strecth (CC_DIFP_WOA) shows about 1.5, engine runs nice with no problems.
To replace the timing chain can be expensive but if it breaks it can be detrimental to the engine. So on this you have to weigh up the options 🤔 Is it noisy?? Unfortunately I do not have a timing chain replacement video yet 🫤👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 ok, mybe I am just too scary ;), because I often read about problems with skyactiv-d engines. Do i need any special tool for timing chain replacement?
@@samostraser8924 there is a timing kit needed in order to do the repair correctly, but you could probably get it on eBay. This wouldn’t be a job for the faint hearted. Have you done a timing chain before on anything??
I got the same code. Asked a local mechanic to clean all 3 egr components outside intake ports and the code come up again. Suspect something blocked inside the manifold ports. Any suggestions?
@Kennedy’s garage, to avoid having carbon build up falling in the cylinders while cleaning, is there another way apart from a baroscope? In-take valves will be closed on top dead centre for their respective cylinder. Is there anyway to get crank shaft position without doing more dismantling? Hmmm... Or what if you used a vacuum/hoover while doing the initial scraping, enough to get a view of the valves? Or heck, keep vacuuming for the whole scraping process, to contain the carbon build up, instead of going everywhere? Is the carbon build up very sticky or quite brittle?
Another guy suggested the hoover to me after I made this video and I thought it was a great idea. Well worth trying. Also how about blowing in the intake port while turning the engine until the air stops flowing, then the valve must be closed 🤔. Let me know how you get on 👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hey, 1 more thing...if you remember. What was the Mass flow reading after the cleaning process? In the video before cleaning at idle it was like 6-9 g/sec, you had mentioned you expected it to be around 14. Do you remember what the reading was after you cleaned the carbon in the intake/EGR valve?
@@xegro I really don’t know ☹️ it should be around 16 grams per second. But I have Snap on, Autel, launch & Mehle all giving me different numbers which makes this job impossible. I show this in one of my videos and should probably do a separate video showing this. Sorry I couldn’t be more detailed
@@kennedysgarage3281 I took off the Map sensor, it's caked in Carbon deposits, fully covered... I haven't got a fault code yet, but it's definitely on it's way. How much would a garage charge to clean the Intake manifold?
Hi there. Had/have 0401 p reading also. Took off egr and and the pipe just after it. Cleaned and hoped it would work, but nope! Roughly, how much would it/should it cost to take off intake manifold/cooler etc for a clean please ....roughly.....tia
Thanks for the detailed video. I own the same vehicle so I'm a bit wary of running into this issue down the road. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I suspect the EGR might be a big contributor to this problem. Is it advisable to turn it off from the OBD to prevent future carbon buildup? And lastly, is there a way to run that valve closing trick on an automatic?
For that you have to elminate Dpf filter and repeogram ECU. It will smoke lightly on start . My biggest upcoming is chains. Bad quality on first models. Now they install DID chains that are great. Problem with oil pump one but once opened replace both. Costly maintenance. 🤦♂️
This scantool is a tablet based ‘ launch ‘ software. I had to watch to remind myself & this is a very cheap too that I don’t use anymore. But is worth a look at 👍
Holy 5hit!! I'm presuming this is a diesel? Not sure because it could a direct injection petrol? Anyway, I have a Mazda 6 MZR-CD 2.2 diesel and I'm wondering if I have this issue to look forward to?! Is there any additive for the fuel that can reduce or prevent this?
It is a diesel & the sky active suffers quite badly from carbon buildup. The additive that I recommend is ‘JLM Extreme clean’ it helps keep everything from injectors to egr & intake manifold clean. It would be worth using every few months just to keep everything nice and clean 🙏👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 That's great, thanks. It seems ok at the moment, I just had a P2565 DTC which turned out to be the vvt actuator sensor, replaced that and it's back to normal power, actually a bit better and more responsive at low revs, so that sensor has probably been dodgy for a while before it tripped the DTC. I'll use that additive from now on though, thanks again.
I too got a P0401 error, first tried to take out the map sensor and it had the other end broken, i mean when I took the map sensor out the other part (probe) is stuck inside and its broken. Is there any way to take it out, the problem is its on verge of falling down.
The easiest thing to do is to remove the intake manifold. And while doing this you will be able to clean the egr port & intake ports too. It is the best way forward 😉
Hello Peter, that's great, thanks for the helpful advice,; got the P0401 issue on my Mazda 6, will have a crack at doing this myself. Would it be okay to use the same gaskets or do you recommend using new ones?
@@cebudave the main manifold gasket is steel with a plastic coating on it and they always come off in good condition. I do sometimes put a slight layer of gasket maker on if in any doubt, all other egr gaskets are perfect to remove & refit . Good luck with it & it is more than likely going to be carbon buildup in the manifold 👍
The whole job takes around 8 hrs ( depending on how badly blocked the intake ports are ) based upon that & at around €50 per hr. €400 to €600 with gasket being replaced
Hello I have a Mazda 6 2.2D, I got a P0103, I was getting 200+ g/s reading on my MAF using the ODB2 scanner, gave it a clean with contact spray and left it to dry for about an hour, I reset the codes but now have a P0102 code and its reading 0g/s I'm guessing I need a new MAF sensor, can you suggest anywhere else I should check before getting a new look one.
Hi Joel, P0103 is air flow too high which normally happens boost air is leaking somewhere between the turbo and the engine (ie. intercooler or intercooler pipe
P102 is air flow low and if you only cleaned the air flow meter & done nothing else, then you may have damaged the air flow meter. So even if you replace the air flow meter then you might still have the original issue to resolve. I wonder could it be a wiring issue that you disturbed by removing the air flow meter? Look at air flow numbers and wiggle the wiring harness at the air flow meter & see if the numbers change. Let me know if this helps👍
The egr coolers block in them, did you do that ?? Also you must do an egr valve initialisation if you renewed either the egr valve or the egr cooler bypass valve 😉👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 i will post video how it accelerates now. I paid 400 eur total for service. 3 sensors intake clean and programming. Not that bad after 110k
@@KhanKhan-lw8fw it is integrated in the air flow meter & I’m not familiar with the wiring of hand, but a quick Google search should give you the info needed 👍
It wasn’t their finest hour alright. Remove injectors, replace seals & change oil gauze every 100,000 mls. This seems to stop the engines from failing but very few ever do this 🤔 Thanks for watching , Peter
Nice one Peter, what do you think of sand baster ? The American boys love it 😂 although I am just as you but if I was working for my self my own garage definitely would invest into sand blaster ( I use hover as I scrape ) not to let it fall down and clean the floor, very nice video over all thanks again
I have a video I recently put on instagram & facebook of an i30 intake manifold, seriously blocked up. And what about the dreaded P2002 Dpf efficiency fault on the VAG’s. From the Egr coolers blocking solid. They all fail but we can blame emissions standards 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
@@mail2cas yes, this and injector washers should be done around every 100,000 mls in order to avoid engine failure. Thank you so much for your comments, top man 🙏👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 I'm keen to replace my washers (just 3 as I recently had a new injector/warrantee /diag. ) but what gets me is the markers on the bolts/nuts that hold the injector in place . I had a glance and can't see any or am I to make markers myself? I know the torque is very low , around 2nm wouod you say its simple enough ?
@@kevinhancock4064 I can’t remember what markers you talk of, but just mark or number the injectors when removing as they are coded & should stay in there own cylinder. This is just to avoid coding the afterwards. I’ve been meaning to do an injector removal video 🤔 If they we leaking bad it could make it harder but it isn’t to difficult
