Melling 10355 vs OEM LS oil pump Porting 

Thanks so much it's good to hear from you again 😊 I've learned so much from you so thanks for that

Good information, thank you. My 05 5.3 has low oil pressure and after the oil warms up it'll actually start chattering lifters. I'm in the process of putting together another 5.3 and was looking for oil pump upgrades and ran across yours. This gives me the information I was looking for. Thanks again

Grateful for you posting this video an I'll keep an eye out for more video's. I'm about two months away from rebuilding my gen 3 5.7 out of my VX Holden commodore an are hunting around for tip an tricks. Respect from New Zealand

Thanks for the detailed video of the pump. The explanation was very nice.

glad i found your channel, i understand about parts sitting in the box you cannot return, i was going to upgrade my truck 17 years ago, peace here, part there, about 65% of what i needed to swap it out, then bills hit, job change, mortgage, family, food, and what not, things get put on hold for a long time trying to get out of the hole you keep getting sucked in too, my wife just does not understand, she thinks this is going to cost a shit load and i keep telling her i have most of what is needed in my tool box, been there for 17 years waiting to complete this dream, oh well now im rambling on.

This video was very informative I didn’t know that the factory oil pumps would bypass like that! Definitely something I’m gonna keep in mind with a future 6.0L build, especially because it’s gonna see higher Rpms.

Thank you so much for all this great information

Excellent video thank you for the hospitality much appreciated. God Bless.

Your video was quite informative. This is the first time I've even seen a video regarding this much detail explaining oil pump differences and pointers as to how to port a stock oil pump and shim the spring for more pressure. I have an '06 TBSS with the LS2, but the oil pressure has always been 45 psi @ idle and 48 psi MAX @ WOT. I know that the TBSS oil pan is a poor design, not only for oil control, but also that the oil filter is relocated to the other side of the pan with long internal oil pipes to and from the filter. So I expect some added pressure loss due to the pan. I could do a little porting there to to help, but I will first try your suggestions to enhance the stock pump. Thanks again!!

Great video. Thanks!

Very informative

I'm surprised you don't have more subscribers

Thank u sir.. stay blessed.

The bypass is why I never shim more than .040… I know Melling had stated NOT to use hi volume pump with standard LS engines. But I have been building these engines for 20 years and have never seen an engine fail due to the pump moving too much volume. The more volume of oil, the better. But the galley passages in the block and the components will only allow the flow that they’re drilled to. One other thing that has an effect on pressure that’s rarely ever mentioned is the crank shaft chamfers on oiling holes. If you turn a factory crank, the pressure will drop just slightly due to change in the chamfers. Keep up the good work! Happy building.

Great video man...

I love your videos. I do go in the settings and set playback speed to 1.5 and save myself a lot of time without missing any info! Keep up the good work!

I add a dorman 625-340 engine oil cooler line with radiator engine oil cooler on my 2002-2006 Chevy avalanche and melling 10295,run great

Thank you sir.

I 'ported' an oil pump for a friend's stroker 440 Mopar engine about 35yrs ago. When it was done, he said the oil pressure gauge reacted like a tachometer. He loved it. Unfortunately, the car was stolen and we never got a long term determination on the effect of the ported pump.

Volume equates to pressure in these pumps. That’s why the gears are thicker and that’s how they move more volume. Hence they make more pressure.

I just Got a melling 10296 hi pressure hi volume. According to literature, the spring selection (+15% or +10% or -10%) doesn't effect idle oil pressure! Shimming does the same job of raising bypass pressure point. What do you think about that? I've heard many conflicting info

I really appreciate the work you have put in, and sharing. my question is what flex shaft motor and hand piece do you use/recommend? I have some 706's I want to practice on. p.s. I hope the pendulum of life swings to smooth sailing... Mike

Excellent info! I have a 2005 5.3 LS1 truck engine with 253k miles. The engine seems to have worn cam bearings as it has 42psi at cold start then goes down to under 8psi at idle after 15 minute drive. Would shimming and deburring the pump give better psi with the worn bearings to resolve this issue? Or, do you recommend replacing the cam bearings?

Another great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I know at the end, you said in this situation since they were going to be at high RPMs for long periods of time, you were going with the 10355 pump with a stock spring. I'm building a twin turbo gen 3 6.0 for mostly street use. Haven't bought the oil pump yet. For that scenario, would you recommend also using the 10355 or stick with a blueprinted stock pump?

I believe this pump is also meant for boosted engines with piston squirters. Like the Lsa

That's some good stuff to know right there and explained very well. I'm going to have to stick that in my back pocket . Do you have any good tips for porting a new set of promaxx 175 sbf heads that's going on a 347 stroker going in a 79 pinto?

Good video! What pump do u recommend I use on my 08 Silverado 5.3 with 10lbs of boost at 6k rpm? I'm going to do dod delete and a bigger cam.

If this is a dumb question im sorry, but we own a 09 Tahoe with DOD and it also has over 160k miles I have noticed over the past year the oil pressure is slowly getting lower and the weird thing is if its cold out it has lower oil pressure until the oil is warmed up could this be the oil pump or do you have any ideas of what direction I should start looking 👍👍💯.. thank you sir for sharing your knowledge

I know this is an older video, so I hope you will still respond, but I have a mellings 10355 pump that I got on a 6.0 non DOD/AFM short block that I bought off of a friend and they said it built 70 psi at idle. If I were to change the spring in it to the factory spring with the 1 thousandths shim, could I then still use this 10355 pump with the factory spring and shim on my non DOD/AFM engine? It is a sbe gen 4 6.0 with sloppy mechanics stage 2 cam and twin turbos. Thanks!

I have a stock 5.3oil pump in my swap. It’s about 25-30 psi at idle. At 6500 it’s about 55 ish psi. Do you see any issue with that?

Be very careful modifying pressure. This is a theory of mine, not verified but worth thought. These engines have a tendency to spin cam bearings. It's because they only have one oil port that creates asymmetrical pressure on the cam (creates a hydraulic wedge). Running anything other than factory pressure can strengthen that wedge. Additionally, porting increases volume which may increase flow but will decrease pressure. It's a balancing act the factory probably thought through in their default setup. I recently spoke with a guy who did a built Gen 3 LS 6.0 for his truck. He put in a high pressure, high volume pump with factory tolerances. It spun the cam bearings (really the high pressure stuff is for lower tolerance, high RPM, race motors). Just my 2 cents. I quickly felt modifying pressure was far beyond the local machine shop, and my level of knowledge.

Great Video & Content Sir. Building a L94 6.2 Stroked w LS7 4.00 Crank w Panki Ti Rods w GETm Main Oil Squirters in place of AFM/Dod & Vvt delete ~ Have the Large 6 2 Escallade Oil Pan ~ Would the Squirter be close ti equivelent to Dod ^ Vvt usage Seems a ported, Shimmed Spring 355HV Pump would be appropriate ?

What oem pump are u referencing, is it a stock ls1 pump or an oem dod/vvt pump? The dod/vvt pump is supposed to be comparable to the melling 355 pump. I'm trying to run my oem dod/vvt pump (2010 5.3l) with the dod deleted. Im running a 7qt pan without the dod bypass in pan, I'm turbo and going to rev to 8k so I want the extra volume and pressure. However I don't quite want 120 psi at redline (using pump as is with dod delete and dod pressure relief pan deleted). Do u think I can use a melling green spring with small shim in the oem pump to achieve around 90-100psi at redline? Are melling and oem pressure relief springs interchangeable, will the presures corriate between the 2? Thanks!

That Melling 10355 pump should come with 2 springs?

Is there really any good reason not to run the high volume high pressure one I mean it's not a problem on dod deleted trucks right

Using the M295HV on a fresh rebuilt engine with DOD/AFM the engine showed as low as 5psi oil pressure in idle. Some glitter was observed on the oil. The person who rebuilt the engine did not aligned the pump properly and there was visible wear on the gears. The pump was replaced with another M295HV which was aligned properly, however the idle oil pressure is still around 5psi at stable operating temperature. Is the M295HV not the adequate pump for 5.3 Gen4 engine with DOD/AFM?

Can you run a standard pump on a dod engine if your deleting the dod system and changing the camshaft

Why do the 10355 oil pump have a hole in it on the front left hand side. And what does it help out with

Hey, glad to see your still waking up with a pulse, I prefer waking up with one.........lol What brand of epoxy would you recommend for work inside an aluminum intake manifold??

Can u use melling 33% oil pump in LS1 with AFR 215cc heads

What would happen if you did run it in a dod afm engine!? I have one that the afm has been deleted via drive time I guess !!

I have Yukon Denali 6.2 2013 I have cancelled the dod can I install the 10355 oil pump?

So you are saying it's ok to run DOD style pump if you use standard on DOD pump spring shimmed .100 correct thanks in advance Robert

What measurement do you use to determine when higher volume is needed?

What does low oil pressure at idle indicate?

Looking at your melling m295 porting videos, I was wondering if you would recommend the m295hv with the stock spring for a stock ls1 with 100k miles? Had 30 psi oil pressure a few days ago and now have absolutely nothing on a mechanical guage. Thanks

I fresh rebuilt gen IV 6.0 ly6. I put a melling 10295 pump. At start up the pressure is a little bit about 40psi. When engine is up to temp it drops about 20psi. I did some research and it seems the melling 295 is for gen III engines. Seems like I need the 10355 pump. Is this correct. Don’t know if it’s the pump or the rebuilt engine?

Is there away I can get in touch with you about porting an oil pump for me?

what viscosity of oil 10-60 ?

Ls engine run thinner oil than your old 350 so oil pressure/volume may differ on modern day engine Pop the hood on a Toyota and look at that 0 wt oil required

We use 295hv pumps or 355's . Some 10295 and 10296 pumps as well for some motors. We always delete dod and vvt from gen 4 motors. Oil pressure no less than 60 and increases to over 80 with higher rpm's. Have never had a problem with the oil pumps out of the box the way they are and have built hundreds of LS motors. What you are doing is a waste of time.

Maybe it’s because everything he says sounds like a question?

It would probably be a good idea if you made a video explaining the negatives of running over 60psi of oil pressure, you know, because you like to make such informative videos. Anybody that's not aware of the drawbacks of elevated oil pressure, you might want to do a little research into it BEFORE performing the shim mod that this guy is explaining to you. Particularly if you still have your oil sender unit/sensor filter (look it up) in place.

Pumps do not make pressure, pumps make flow, that why pumps are rated, generally speaking, in GPM. Pressure is the resistance to flow.

There's only so much volume that oil can even go in that motor. You can't put any more than what can fit. So no you do not need a larger oil pan considering you only use maybe a quart half to completely fill that oil system. Maybe two quarts to two and a quarter with the dod system. I don't know where you got that idea but that is not the concept of a high-volume system. I've been working with high volume oil pumps ever since Chrysler put high volume oil pumps exclusively on all their V8 engines in the 1960s and up. The reason you don't use that on a non-dot engine I have no idea. But it has nothing to do with oil volume. I have seen high pressure melling oil pumps put on LS Motors after a DOD delete. I don't understand why. You still get more than enough oil pressure with a high volume pump and all high volume pump does is make sure that there is more than enough oil in the circulatory system. And oil return problems have been an issue, especially with General Motors engines. Even a few of the Chrysler engines had that problem like the original Street Hemi. When you put the much larger aftermarket oil pumps on it, you could overrun the oil return capability. But if you're building a high Performance Engine, you should also be making sure that oil return is as effective as it can be. The LS motor not having a valley that drains down onto the camshaft has to be an issue. That's the only mechanism by which the rollers on the camshaft get lubricated except the little bit that drains off of the roller rockers themselves. In the gen3 Chrysler Hemi, that doesn't work precisely because it is at such an angle that it drips off of the lifter before it ever gets to the cam lobes which require lubrication. It probably would not be hard to put some oil drain back holes into that block but I have never been into the LS motor as a general rule. I have built a couple of them, and there was enough oil being splashed around by the Piston sprayers that it was never really that big an issue.