Why port/shim M-295 LS oil pump 

I don’t shim more than .100” I guess you could try .110-.125” I just don’t know what pressure to expect etc.

Thank you! JD

Sorry for the late response I have hundreds of comments that I was never notified about and I’m trying to wade through! Thanks for the feedback and for watching I appreciate it! JD

Interesting you mention this because I see several people on other RU-vid videos who have damage their engines or otherwise had big problems associated with that secondary relief valve in the pan. I think I’m going to avoid that set up as much as I can! Thanks for the reply sorry for the late response I had hundreds of comments that I was never notified about. Thanks again man stay tuned hopefully have some good content coming up here in less than a month. !!!

For most any engine a good standard for clearance on the bearings is .001” x per inch of journal diameter. Tighter is a little risky and requires thin engine oil. As rpm goes up you’ll see builders using .0012” x per inch of journal diameter sometimes more. In those wider bearing applications they intend to run thicker engine oil. Thanks for watching! JD

Thanks for watching and the feedback I appreciate it! JD

Interesting I’d like to see pictures or video!

Thanks man I appreciate it sorry for the late reply this is one of the hundreds of comments I was never notified about. Thanks for watching man stay tuned! JD

The LS engines can also be primed, it requires a pressure vessel to force oil in a specific port on the Left Front of the block. Several companies sell LS pre-oilers, kind of pricy, or you can make your own; see DIY videos on RU-vid. I always recommend pre-oiling the engine especially on first start up. JD

Sorry for the delayed response this is one of the hundreds of comments that I found I was never notified about. Thank you so much for watching in the support I truly appreciate it stay tuned more to come soon! JD

Thanks man I appreciate it this comment was one of hundreds that I was never notified about I apologize for not replying. I downloaded the RU-vid studio app on my cell phone and found an unbelievable amount of comments that I was never notified about.🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️. JD

I agree Smoky Yunick always said you only really need 10 pounds of oil pressure for every 1000 RPMs. The way I’ve been setting up these ported and shimmed pumps it’s just darn near perfect for your average build revving 6000 to 6500+ RPMs it provides plenty of oil. Thanks man I appreciate you watching, this is one of those hundreds of comments I was never notified about sorry for the delay. JD

Volume is the result of the oil supply system while system pressure is dictated by leakage passed all bearings and lifter bores. This only remains true if a lifter does not exceed the OEM flow thru the pushrods to the rockers. True, changing the compression on the oil pressure relief valve will increase pressure, but it will not exceed the oil filters burst rating. Use an ACDelco filter. True, a stuck oil pressure relief valve can blow and oil filter but only if machine wrong or debris blocks movement in the bore. I had worked at a dealer that had incorrectly machined relief valves in a specific VIN range, as each would inflate the filter to deform the sealing flange, but never bursted the case. ASE Master Tech since 78 Retired

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@@deankay4434 What year did that happen? Most oil filters I see today are "Burst Pressure" rated at above 200 PSI and "relief pressure" at around 10-20 PSI.

I’ll have to search for the plate to gear clearance. Sorry I wasn’t notified of your post. JD

@@HeadFlowInc No problem sir. I was curious if you knew. I haven't found it anywhere.

It’s definitely recommended to align the pump gears with shims before tightening the housing but very few people actually do it. I did the feeler gauge method on my 4.8 turbo build. 👍

Jay Man I’m not as familiar with the LS3 pump setups I’ll have to look into them. Two areas on SBC & BBC engines running a high volume or high pressure pump setup is having more oil capacity and running restrictors. It’s - good rule to have 1 Qt of oil for every 10# of oil pressure in the system. Restrictors can be in the rear of the lifter valleys, in the lifter bore oil holes, in the lifters or small passage pushrods. Naturally you’d need to run a mechanical flat tap or roller lifter to use restrictors. Scavenge pumps and surge tanks are always a great option to upgrading the oiling system! I’m a fan of German engineering for sure! 👍😎

Honestly be be a little bit careful and talk to your machinist there is some concern with Max boring they are 53 block to except the LS one size Pistons with the thickness of the cylinder walls. I believe that camshaft you selected is pretty small for an engine with a 4 inch stroke you might revisit that and play around with some horsepower calculators because I think you’re leaving a lot of power and potential on the table. Also do some research and watch some of Richard holding nurse videos about intakes because there’s a lot of the car intakes that people used to covet that turned out to not be a very good match to most combos. Definitely get a torque converter that’s efficient and will handle the hit of the nitrous very interesting you’re talking about running a C4 automatic behind an LS engine! Sorry for the late reply I found hundreds of comments that I was never notified about. JD

You have a good hot oil pressure already, some report 20# or less Hot idle. My preference is to shim mine .100” but not more than this on a stock capacity oil pan. Thanks for watching! JD

I’m not sure when I’ll be cleaning a block, but I’d sure share the process. Normally if a block needs cleaning live just taken it to a machine shop. I don’t know for sure if the oil galleys are easily accessible like the SBC engines etc. JD

We always use a .100” shim works great! 👍

It used to be Bob Morton but I’m not sure if he’s still open to the public, you might try calling. It also depends what part of KC

I’ve had great luck with the .100” shim but there are companies who use between .078”-.090”. I haven’t experimented with anything less than .090” or more than .100”. Try googling shimmed LS oil pumps and see if there’s any advertising on oil pressure. JD

Do you have and intend on using the DOD/VVT? This will change the oil pump needed. Yes: Melling 10355HV no shim required.

Apparently it must be a progressive bypass setup, when you cold start it lets oil through etc. I followed other companies who were shimming the bypass, I just decided the .100” shim gave me what I wanted. JD

I agree anything below at least 25-30# makes me nervous. JD

That's a pretty low idle. Your cylinder walls rely a lot on oil being splashed around by the crank - at that low of an rpm your not splashing a lot of oil around...

I mean that's my stock gm full size is like 550

I don’t really see any areas that could be modified to provide more flow than the tube diameter allows. It’s an interesting question though would there be any benefit or detriment to running different size tube on your pick up to the oil pump? I know Oil capacity can be an issue if you’re running too much pressure or volume. Interesting question I appreciate you watching and the support sorry for the delayed response! JD

Cranky Jay Yes, as long as you can safely access the plug you could shim the spring just don’t go to far.

It’s a pretty Norma oil pressure for a bone stock LS engine.

They sell a different pump for the DOD engines.

The factory bypass spring and valves that app is set up to start bypassing pressure pretty low not much over 50 pounds I want to say 53 pounds or something similar so if you delay that bypass function to a slightly higher pressure you can safely supply oil to the engine at higher RPMs. I hope that makes sense I’m doing voice to text. Sorry for the delayed response this is one of hundreds of comments I found that I wasn’t notified about. JD

It’s a machined tolerance in the bore etc. JD

KarKamp417 I think it’s more of an issue of when people are seeing a drop in idle oil pressure is when the concern starts. Even on a brand new engine 20-30# would be considered low as a norm; Smokey Yunick was the one who offered the 10# of oil pressure per 1000 rpms. As long as you had consistent 20-30# and the oil pump jumped quickly with increased rpm it should be ok. With shimming the stock LS pump it delays the internal bypass which will maintain volume to feed the engine at higher rpms above 5300 rpms. JD

It's not simply rpm/100 = oil pressure. You start with your idle oil pressure, and you should see 10lbs for every 1000rpm from there. Ex: if you have 15psi at 800rpm idle, you should see 25psi at 1800, 35 at 2800, etc. I've heard past 60psi your good to whatever rpm - haven't verified it though.

viciousrap700 Thanks for the feedback, I agree there is a fine line on how much oil can be added. I tried to specify only adding 1/2 - 1qt of oil only, I clearly needed to do a better job. What’s weird is there aren’t many extra capacity oil filters for the LS engines. Or at least we haven’t found any so far. Old SBC/BBC you could add between 1/2 to 2 Qt. to your oil capacity just by installing a longer filter. I sure wish I could find this option for the LS. Thanks I appreciate your feedback! I should have made it clear not to add to much oil. JD

HeadFlowInc there are a few filters that are about 1/3 longer than the stock short filter and some of these filters came on trucks of various years, you'll mostly find them on the 6.0 2500hd trucks. The problem in the LS community isn't with the filter, it's with pans, to be more specific pan options per chassis application. In a drag car the best option really is to utilize a dry sump oiling system. You eliminate the windage problem and can support the engine with the necessary capacity. There's no shortage of combinations with LS engines that will push them 7500+, they like to rev, the problem is as you stated having enough capacity to support the oil system at that kind of RPM. This is where we have to focus on everything we can in a street engine application to get oil back in the pan as quickly as possible. This could include anything from smoothing out castings in heads, modifications to the block, enlarging oil drain back areas, etc... Even coatings if someone wants to spend the money. The problem usually lies with this.... The oil system isn't a glamour system is it??? Most people don't look at it and see power potential so they invest in the minimal to attempt keeping the engine alive and that's "good enough". I think we can agree here.

Great information I appreciate sharing, I apologize for not responding but just found hundreds of comments I was never notified about. I like the attention to detail and the understanding of how enough small things will add up to big changes in power and longevity. Thanks again for the support and for watching stay tuned hopefully this thing will be running within a month!

@@HeadFlowInc Would still like to know if and how this increases idle pressure, on lets say a higher mileage motor? Wear etc.