You've helped me yet again! putting poly bushings on the ml front sway bar today and stripped the end link bolt on one side, left it alone and went on an online bolt search. Didn't know if they needed to be threaded all the way or just the end, you revealed only the end for upper clamp needs to be. Hardware store it is for replacements, nice! bolt size btw for others: Hex Screw Bolt M10 x 1.5 x 70 mm Grade 10.9
Fupabox - thanks for your w163 videos. Your videos have been VERY HELPFUL for me fixing the w163 2005 ML500. Your guidance has been much appreciated! Cheers.
I reccomend remove the sway bar. Snap the bottom bolt on sway end link bushings. Knock off the uppermost clampwith a hammer, same bottom. Then take a die grinder and slowly make a slit in the stuck bolt throught the middle front of control arm. Then simply tap the rusted stuck bolt out with ease ❤
I replaced them on my 2005 ML last year . Sprayed penetrant every day for a week then used a MAP torch to heat them before even trying to get them out .
Just did this job, Had to drill out the bolt for the passenger side, driver said came out no problem. Using a cobalt drill bit and working your way up in size, The broken bolt comes no problem :)
I have used arc or mig welder to heat bolts very quickly without the dangers of open flames. If you don’t have, someone in your neighborhood may. Try it, you will like it!
I have both ...never really used either to heat a bolt or nut . I have actually thought about it , but always just used the Oxy torch . I will definitely give it a shot
fupabox - my M10 1.5 X 70mm bolt Snapped just like yours did. The bolt head came right off. After hearing you needed tons of heat - I kinda rolled over and gave up. I had bought new clamps too. I guess I will whack the clamps off one end this weekend and see if I can get that bolt out without heat. I don't have any heat here. Working at a friend's driveway in Rhode Island and the truck is a daily driver. Also replacing the ABS pump soon - tonight or this week. Has a code for open circuit inside of the pump which means replace it.
I think those exposed threads at the top of the bushing clamp are the downfall of that setup . I'm looking for an inductive bolt heater so that will never be an issue again. Good luck on it
Looks like one guy says to bash or whack off the bottom part of the clamp and then try to push it up and out. Except he said it will hit the CV joint. I have not attempted any more work on this bolt since I snapped it off one week ago. Seems bash off the lower part of the clamp. But I don't want an un drivable W163. So I am not sure what to do. Do you think this will make any difference? When I hit certain bumps I get strange noises.
Left my garage last year with my car ready for the annual safety test. Rattling and banging underneath during the drive home. Later there was a large bang whilst driving and when I took the engine drip tray off to have a look, the anti-roll bar was swinging free. Bloody garage has forgot to tighten the bolts up and they had fallen off during driving. Bugger finding replacements and fitting them at the same garage one hour before my test the following day. Plonkers!
I reccomend remove the sway bar. Snap the bottom bolt on sway end link bushings. Knock off the uppermost clampwith a hammer, same bottom. Then take a die grinder and slowly make a slit in the stuck bolt throught the middle front of control arm. Then simply tap the rusted stuck bolt out with ease
Just done the bushes on my ML55...What should be a hour job max turned out to be a two day job. Had the same issue with the two outside clamps,i decided to take the arms off the car and drive the broken bolts out after soaking them in WD40....Going to put plenty of anti seize compound on the new bolts before fitting.
Hi,I purchased two bolts from mercedes with torx heads they were not the same as bolts that were fitted but did the job...I think that mercedes also supply a kit...Hope this helps.
Had the same problem on my 270CDI. Fupa thought it was something of a poor design, I think the designer of this suspension is dumber than any creature I can think of and should be put away for life! I was pissed beyond belief for the two days I was fighting in the sun to get that thing out. I also marinated the new bolts before fitting them.
My 1999 Ml320 did the same thing. It stripped the bolt head. the other snapped off. Final solution success was to cut off heads of bolt and beat the lower clamp back and forth till fell off, hammer upward failed because bolt hits axle once loosened. The bolt must come DOWNWARD. The upper clamp has the threads holding the bolt as you explained. PUT VICEGRIPS ON LOWER BOLT EXPOSED 1/2" SURFACE WHERE THE LOWER CLAMP WAS ===> NOW , PUT PB ON EVERTHING ---->HOLD THE GRIPS STILL WHILE KNOCKING THE UPPER CLAMP BACK AND FORTH a TINY BIT TILL IT gives up its frozen lock/rust, This bolt also had threaded upper exposed 1/4 " portion cut off with angle grinder,.. allows pb to sink*** **the bolt turned after many hits back and fourth on the front of the upper clamp. It slid down with vice grip after the upper clamp fell free.. whew,,, I think the space between this bolt and its axle hole fills with whatever over time and needs protective sealant at the top rather than nothing but locking stuff alone.. thanks
T Duffy - I appreciate your great detail on how to get those bolts out. I had given up but maybe I will try your method. I bought new clamps as I figured mine were too rusted and damaged. My old clamps are rusted on so well and the bolt has snapped off. Sounds like this happens to everyone without fail. Is this worth all the trouble? Does the truck suspension make LESS NOISE when you are done? This is my primary motivation - over certain bumps the truck makes strange noises.
Thanks for the video. I just attempted this job, heat, penetrating fluid and air tools were no good so i ground off the nut on the outer link clamp. After pounding on the bottom clamp, it came off, but does the thread only attach to the top clamp as I cant get that off and am concerned the thread is connected to the lower transfer control arm? thanks again
On my 2005 ML I just did the bushings .. Soaked in penetrating fluid every day for 3-4 days before attempting . this time they came out fine . Threads are only in the upper clamping half and not the lower arm .
Job done, thanks for the help :) and like you say, MAPP gas does not work. For anyone else trying this who doesnt have an oxy acetylene torch, I ended up disconnecting the steering knuckle for access and drilling the thread out on the top link clamp with a 1/4 cobalt bit. Once I was down through the link as far as the lower wishbone, I used a hammer to knock the link off, cleaned out the thread and then an air hammer with a pin punch to push the remainder of the bolt through the wishbone. For some reason the bolt pushed down through the wishbone no problem, unlike when I hammered up and it rounded the bolt.
I reccomend remove the sway bar. Snap the bottom bolt on sway end link bushings. Knock off the uppermost clampwith a hammer, same bottom. Then take a die grinder and slowly make a slit in the stuck bolt throught the middle front of control arm. Then simply tap the rusted stuck bolt out with ease
I got them at the dealership, but you could order from a fastener website or a store that specializes in industrial bolts .. just ask for a grade 8 m10x1.5 70mm long bolt
Zero, nothing, the bolts are welded inside the lower control arm, I have heated them with oxy acetylene until they were white hot, they dont seem to be getting hot inside the control arm beacause it acts like a heatsink, the thread inside the upper clamp released, but the bolt inside doesnt move at all, i think ill have to drill them out, this has been an more than one week job so far.
@@fupabox I tried welding a nut but it wouldnt stick to the shaft beacuse it would cool to rapidly, we drilled it through, but still need to do the other side. Now the problem is the upper control arm, the two bolts in the rubber bushings are also stuck, the nuts were easy but it looks like we'll have to cut them with an angle grinder, looks like the fuel lines are running nearby
as a penetrating oil I now use " seafoam deep creep " exclusively ..on any part I think will be an issue . Project farm tested all the penetrating oils a few years ago and deep creep was far and away the best . Still keep wd40 around for minor stuff , but for the danger bolts and bushings deep creep just seems to work . Soaking the bushings on that control arm with it may help.
I am facing the same issue on my w163 sway bar. I snapped off the bolt head and not sure how to proceed. Not sure what to heat up. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Kt_QSSLqEyQ.html
you all are working too hard. DRILL THE ENTIRE BOLT OUT!!! Buy new bolts with nylon locking nuts plus washers= DONE. 1 hr both sides. Of course you need a good drill and sharp bits of various sizes but most dyi people have those.
