Hey Boyd, just wanted to give you an update I used your formula for the antifouling red came out really nice and I used it to paint a current project which is a model of the battleship USS Massachusetts bb59. I use your formula to do the antifouling red and everyone who has seen it has said that looks so much like the real ship I'm really happy and pleased with it so thanks again for showing how to mix this color.
I wanted to thank you Boyd for sitting there and showing how to do that underwater haul color I have been trying to mix that up for a while now and it always turned purple I followed your formula and the color looks exactly like the anti-fouling red can't wait to put it on my model of both the USS hornet cv8 and on a tugboat that I am working on thanks again for posting how to do that.
Boyd great update and I see you have a lot of detailed work with the photo-etched parts it looks tedious but the end results will look awesome thanks for sharing have a great day.
Red is just the color of the anti-fouling paint (anti-corrosion protection). It's just been that way forever. Pretty much everybody all over the world standardized on red paint like this for their ships. In some spots, you can still see anti-fouling paint on chunks of the Titanic's wreck. I'd imagined this would also be the case for the shipwrecks from WW2 that are still relatively intact like the Yorktown (CV-5), Enterprise's sister ship.
Just a suggestion but during the battle of midway the color scheme is a much darker blue color. By early 1942 she was painted in measure 11 which is Sea Blue 5-S and some believe she was already painted in measure 21 which was Navy blue 5-N by midway because the sea blue paint had fading issues and was quickly changed over to the navy blue. I don’t want to sound like a know it all but it’s just a suggestion 😄I love your builds and look forward to seeing the finished ship.
Thanks for the info. I'm looking into it to see if I can find some better reference photos. No big deal to change the hull color at this point in my build.
USS Enterprise was supposed to be painted Navy Blue (5N) after December 1941, but at the battle of Midway she was still painted Sea Blue(5S). Most of the US aircraft carrier models of WW2 shown on RU-vid are painted grey which is incorrect.
Very nice job but you can make that way easier to tape off. After you prime it then paint the whole thing black. Then use you water line tape and tape off the water line, then paint you red. After it dries with the water line still in place tape off the bottom and then paint your grey and pull the tape off. You will save time and tapping off multiple times.
I saw a Star Trek book one time that showed The History of The Enterprise from the 1700s to , I believe The Next Generation. Have you ever thought of doing something like that. Huge undertaking I know, but would be awesome.
You’re right Boyd, any flat paint sucks up the clear coat and makes it darker. Unless you mist it on. Sometimes it doesn’t look as bad. I hate craft paint because it just plugs up an airbrush, because it dries too fast and the pigments are so much thicker. I’ve used it a few times, but it is more trouble than it’s worth. You have an actual spray gun, instead of an a airbrush, this is why it works better. A spray gun has a bigger nozzle than an airbrush.
Hey Boyd, you could probably put lights in it if you want, just drill some holes through the hull and feed “em through. I know you would know how to do it. You have it sitting on a pedestal, so the wires could come right through that to your controls, or battery pack.
@9:50 -- Stopping here to point out ONE HUGE DETAIL that was present in World War 2 carriers including the Midway-class ships that entered service just after the war ended. They didn't have enclosed bows. They were open and you could stand underneath and forward of the flight deck in those open areas! They soon learned that open bows were NOT a good idea for aircraft carriers. Water could flow through that area and it would weaken the flight deck from underneath. I think there was one Essex-class carrier that was wrecked after a rough tropical storm. It returned to the US and was repaired. It still wasn't until the mid-1950s they finally modified these ships to have enclosed bows. All the ships that got angled decks (Essex-class and the three Midways) were refit with enclosed "hurricane bows" and the first two Forrestal Class carriers were modified and incorporated both the angled deck and hurricane bow. The USS Ranger (CV-61) was the first carrier to be built with an angled deck and hurricane bow planned from the beginning. Besides the flight deck issue with the open bow, the closed bow probably saves the ship from flooding if the bow DOES go underwater. I saw footage of the USS Coral Sea (CV-43) dipping its bow FAR below the water (10-20 feet?) during a rough storm off the coast of California in the 1980s. The footage was shown during a presentation made by a retired Hughes avionics engineer. This was a guy who worked on developing the radar sets for both the F-14 and F-18. Part of his job was flying in two-seat planes to test and evaluate that hardware. Of course, he got to experience the "Ageless Warrior" bucking like a bronco during a bad storm! Those Midway-class ships had some bad handling characteristics in rough seas. That as much as age played into their retirement.
Looking forward to seeing your progress on this build. I know you're into the Titanic. Have you thought about building her sister ship the Olympic, but painting her in the dazzle camouflage she had during WWI?
With the hundreds of tiny photo etch parts it is much more work than building a 1:350 Refit. That model is mostly the aztec paint that takes all the time.
That bill looks amazing. You must be a very patient person. I had a question though, how do you clear areas of paint in order to glue the part down? Or do you know a glue that will work even after an area has been painted?
Hi Boyd been watching you do these amazing kits for a while now and they are incredible I can'twait to see the finished kit. I was wondering if you used the same acyrlic paint on your 1/350 enterprise refit kit as you are using on this kit or if it possible to do it.
I’ve found that the craft paint leaves a fairly coarse texture and that I get issues with silvering of decals if I don’t do some sanding of the craft and/or gloss top coat before decal application. Have you had issues with that or do you have any tips?
Unfortunately no, it turned out that the kit originally had 2 versions of armor panels that cover the entire surface of the model. The kit I got had the wrong armor set that didn't match the mold of the hull. The original producer of the kit passed away and there was no way to get the correct set of armor for it. Too bad, a lot of time and work wasted. This is the reality when dealing with garage kits. It's great that there are subjects you can't get anywhere else but it comes with risks.
